17 - k204tx: SSD upgrade.
Hi, I have an SSD upgrade on my laptop. I was wondering if my model, a 17-k204tx has a slot m2 on the motherboard and if so, what size m2 cards it will accept? Or do I have to buy a standard 2.5 "disk instead?
Yes, there a m2 slot. Here is the Service Manual:
It is not easy to access. We had some users to post photos and if I remember correctly it is not necessary to remove and return on the motherboard, but that's what shows the manual. The m2 he uses is the size of SATA 2280 variety.
See p. 67 of the manual. This video is also relevant:
If it's 'the Answer' please click on 'Accept as Solution' to help others find it.
Is my mid-2012 13 "MacBook Pro compatible with PCIe SSD upgrade? I want to remove the internal optical disk and edit it in the PCIe SSD, so that I have 2 internal storage. Going to do?
Your mention of an optical drive tells me you have a MBP non-retine. PCI and PCIe SSDS are NOT compatible with your MBP. You can install a card standard 2.5 "SSD in your MBP and still experience a significant increase in performance. I suggest OWC SSD and Crucial.
I have a PORTEGE R500 bought in 2007, SERIES NO.48025469H.
I have obvious problems with VISTA and WINDOWS 7. The two do not work well, because he seems to have a memory. I wonder if I can increase the memory and replace the drive with an SSD. I want to keep this laptop because it is perfect for all my needs.
Message was edited: assignment has been translated
According to the specifications of the laptop your laptop can handle with GB of RAM, but has been bundled with 2 GB memory is not possible.
What about SSD? SSD upgrade is possible and you can use 256GB SSD for upgrade. After this system will be much faster, and you will certainly more performance and speed.
I had a Satellite Pro P200 for 3 years and more. It came with Vista Business pre-installed, but I have successfully installed Windows 7 a few months ago.
A few months ago, I replaced the C drive in my office with a Solid State Drive and now he sings - program start and loading of the system is much faster than before.
Now I'm wondering if the SSD upgrade even could be done to my trusty P200 and if yes, what brand/model of SSD could be better. It should be 128 GB or 256 GB maybe.
Anyone else been in this way? The results? Pitfalls?
All responses appreciated.
I think that it should be possible.
You must use a SATA SSD drive since the laptop supports the SATA controller.
To be honest, I never tried to upgrade the laptop with a SSD but SSD is not very different from the HARD drive and normally should not be a problem.
In some cases, an update of the firmware of SSD may be necessary but usually these firmware updates should be available on the SSD drive manufacturer support page.
There is an earlier discussion on the SSD upgrade 1st generation carbon x 1, up to 256 GB. Someone mentioned two specific models with exclusive SSF form factor on this machine. I did a google search and can't find anywhere to buy. This is the model number of 256 GB. Anyone knows where to buy?
45N8483 SD SanDisk 256GB 3.7mmH SF, 2 X 10-256
Are you ready to pay $502 256 GB drive?
I still hesitate between two strategies of size SSD upgrade for my brand new W530.
1. an (internal) SSD + a HARD drive (internal)
- Put the original of the ultrabay DVD burner in an external enclosure (connected to the laptop with a USB cable SATA) and use when necessary
- Put the original Toshiba HDD 500 GB of the main Bay in a shopping cart, then in housing as a backup drive-ultrabay
- Buy a Crucial SSD m4 (512GB) for the main Bay and use it to drive to OS/programs and road data
2. two SSDs (internal) + a HARD drive (external)
- Put the original of the ultrabay DVD burner in an external enclosure (connected to the laptop with a USB cable SATA) and use when necessary
- Put the original Toshiba HDD 500 GB in an external case (connected to the laptop with a USB cable SATA) and use it as a backup drive
- Buy 2 m4 Crucial SSD (128 + 256 GB):
-one in the main Bay as player of OS/programs (128 GB)
-one in a basket, then in housing ultrabay as data drive (256 GB)
I also want to let you know that a 512 GB SSD is a little more expensive than a 128 GB SSD + a 256 GB SSD. Also, I like to choose the best strategy of resistance, reliability and durabilty.
Could you share with me the benefits & disadvantages for both strategies and tell me which is the best strategy for your point of view?
Thanks for your help,
I agree with the approach of @eos. I have configured my W520 on the same track. I have an mSATA SSD 256GB (a - Data), with a 750 GB HARD drive in the Bay of primary and a 500GB HDD in the Ultrabay slot.
The mSATA SSD is my boot device, even if I sometimes start from one of the other disks when testing new configurations.
The mSATA slot is SATA 2 don't bother me a bit. It's very fast. Sometimes, I put an mSATA SSD in an mSATA to the 2.5 enclosure and run in the Ultrabay SATA 3-speed housing. I'm hard pressed to notice the difference.
You're better off using a partition of HARD drive for data for various reasons. On the one hand, at least write cycles committed SSDS, longer it will last. Second, if your system partition is lost, your data is still intact. Third, you can save a small partition of data rather than a larger combo partion.
I love having the flexibility of two open bays using the mSATA offer slot - i.e. I sometimes swap in my optical drive in the Ultrabay slot, etc.
(model: 23-k001hk all-in-One)
Hello all - asking for suggestions advice from wise and kind people on the best way - and operating instructions - for upgrading the speed of my current hdisk 1 TB + SSD 16 GB cache scheme of HP storage by one of these itineraries:
1) upgrade the disk installed cache 16 GB SSD mSATA disk (limit Intel RST) 64 GB mSATA
Why: I update regularly a slap (10-15GB) of data from the Agency.
so given that the daily volume of modified files is comparable to 16 GB,
I'm assuming that a larger cache will actually add value
(2) install an SSD 'broad' to serve the main startup disk by replacing
the existing hdisk of 1 TB (I use a tiny fraction of it) with a 2.5 SSD "
with a suitable support (and deleting or disabling the 16 GB SSD disk cache)
Thanks in advance for any advice on this point, HP does not have any information on that, nor any obvious way to access or review the settings of the RST (firmware?) used in their SSDcache + hDisk arrangement (Yes, tried Ctrl-I, the boot, etc.-no joy).
-Rob in Hong Kong
A late thank you for your advice. Based on this feedback and having discovered just that software ExpressCache 'hidden' on my system quietly stopped working after the upgrade to Windows 10 (and HP support does not currently have updated software ExpressCache for Windows 10), I decided to install a large SSD drive and use it as a boot drive.
In the this could help other all-in-One HP Envy owners tilt, here is a summary of the steps that worked with obvious disclaimers that even if it worked for me, it is not a 'universal' solution and also that if you mess with the hardware/software of your system, you are of course on your own, without guarantees or responsibility for this author) :
(also, my apologies for the format - in a hurry)
HP Envy tilt (23-k001h model) running Windows 10
Change the original storage configuration:
Hdisk (boot drive) 1 TB + 16 GB mSATA SSD cache ("linked" to the hdisk via ExpressCache)
Hdisk (spare drive) 1 TB + new Samsung Evo 850 mSATA SSD 500 GB (as boot drive)
Many, many "zippier" system: QuickStart, app launch, etc..
(HP Envy models tilt seem to use this supplement Windows 3 rd-party, instead of Intel RST):
In my case, as my recent visit to Windows 10 has taken care of this for me (haha), I don't have to do; Otherwise, I guess we should stop the ExpressCache service, uninstall the software from ExpressCache and/or drivers, then reboot - suggest you only look it up in the forums, because I can't offer my own experience on this one.
Clear/unloading as much unnecessary data from drive C: (1 TB hdisk) as possible.
The goal would be to have used space on C: be greatly below your 500 GB (or other) new drive (in my case, I cut the used space on the C: 100 GB).
Also a good idea to run the defrag Windows on C:, as may be useful (necessary?) for the reduction of this partition in the next step
Disk management Windows allows you to shrink the Windows partition (mapped as C
Goal: you want a net size of all partitions on hdisk (Windows + hidden/recovery/system partitions) to be a little less than the actual size of your new SSD (my "500 GB" SSD was actually more as 465 GB)
Warning: disk management can claim "not enough space" to shrink Windows (C when it's clearly not partition so - in my case, the problem was due to my Windows partition is not the last partition on the disk before the unallocated space (if any) - obviously this disrupts the management of disks.) If so, you need to move partitions using a 3rd party soft as AOMEI (free app - has worked well for me) all for the Windows partition is the last partition on the hdisk, with unallocated space located immediately after the Windows partition.
Result: when the dust settles, the partitions allocated on your hdisk must have a net size which is comfortably at less than the actual capacity of your new SSD (in my case, the partitions was 440 GB on a capacity 465 GB SSD).
Physics card mSATA SSD upgrade
- Power PC, unplug from the mains and remove the rear plastic cover:
- Remove the metal shield covering the RAM:
- http://support.HP.com/us-en/document/c04007922 (only the first 3 steps)
- Remove the metal shield covering the motherboard:
- Locate/remove the 3 screws holding it down.
- Lift on board as possible shielding at the booth of PC;
- Locate the SSD of origin (see tiny map labeled as SanDisk or some of these) and remove 2 tiny screws to attach to the motherboard.
- While keeping you constantly connected to the Earth (strap, touch metal chassis, etc.):
- gently remove original SSD and save it in some static container (if upgrade fails and you want to restore the system to the original state of the material)
- Gently insert the new card in lateral connector mSATA SSD,
- and to the motherboard with the same 2 live
- Replace the motherboard of armour, armour of RAM and plastic cover
- Suggestion from the link above, you must first a Macrium recovery disk
- You can clone * all * the partitions on the SSD's original hdisk
- make the first boot drive in SSD
- also suggest to disable booting from originals hdisk (night before you really start SSD)
- Save the BIOS settings and exit the BIOS
- If you have purchased a Samsung SSD, you can download/use their app "Samsung magician" to do so (see "Optimization of OS" section), or
- Google "Optimizing windows 10 ssd" to find any number of guides to achieve this, such as:
- Note: one of the most important changes are those related to mode AHCI (ability to GARNISH)
- Note: some suggested parameters cannot be 100% essential, for example:
- pagefile on SSD: some authors suggest no page on the DSS file, others say "keep" small'(?) "; most compelling advice I've seen are to retain the page file on the SSD, but let Windows manage the size; in all cases, should make sure that your system has * sufficient * RAM (8 GB and more) for your usage requirements.
- 'leave free space' (aka overprovisioning): SSD experts suggest that current-technology SSDS, it is not necessary
- "do not defrag": 10 Windows recognizes SSD and disable defrag automatically
- Use Macrium Reflect (free) or similar to save a snapshot of your current partition SSD
- After the backup, delete old/unnecessary partitions on original hdisk. For some, drive management works; others may need to resort to using the command line program Admin "diskpart" (read the instructions carefully!) and use "Delete Partition Override" (be very sure that you have selected a partition on the * original hdisk * (IE, 'old'))
- Disk management allows you to create a new simple volume on hdisk original now empty, as a reader of alternative utility
- Regular backup of SSD Annex: SSDS, as with mechanical parts, will fail - it's only a matter of time. It 's going to happen. Thus, strongly suggest that you configure regular (daily) snapshots of your SSD partitions. Again, I use Macrium Reflect to do this with a full backup weekly + differential daily backups and save the images in the now empty original hdisk in the PC
- If your SSD has any sense space not allocated, you may want to expand the Windows partition on the SSD drive use disk management to make use of this space
Does anyone have the manual of reparation for this system? I'm doing an ssd upgrade but I can't find any real documentation on how to get to training. I can assume kind of how its going to go but I prefer to have a guide to tell me that I need to worry, if there are wires.
Hello again Jerky_san"
Thank you for waiting.
I contacted someone who could give me this:
I know that it is not listed as your model, but it's exactly the same laptop. Only a different color.
Note that you need to clone your disk to your SSD. In order to have all partitions recovery.
I think that this document could be useful.
Don't thank me, thank Russell-E for his help.
I do it by this agreement. Thank you Russell E.
I want to clean install windows 8 pro x 64 on a new ssd upgrade.I have windows xp x 32 on an existing hard drive which I no longer use, I can do this, that I can start the upgrade process, and then point the installation on the new SSD?I really don't want to install XP on the new SSD and am not bothered about keeping programs or settings
How to do a clean install:
Step 1: Use the upgrade wizard to describe the PC and pay the $40 (US)
Step 2: When the 'Install Windows 8' message appears, select 'Install by creating media' to create a bootable USB key or .iso (a disk image) file.
Step 3: Wait for the Wizard download Windows 8 Pro installation package and create the bootable media or .iso file. The flash player must be having 3 GB or more of free space available.
Step 4: Burn the .iso file, if that's the path you have chosen, to a blank DVD.
Step 5: Use this key USB or DVD to boot the PC.
Step 6: When you get to the screen in the Setup program that asks, "which type of installation you want?" choose "custom".
Step 7: Select a drive for the operating system partition in the next screen. At this point, you can create a new partition if there is enough space available or reformat the hard disk.
Step 8: Proceed with the installation of Windows 8 Pro.
You should probably do a phone activation after installation is complete.
1. press the Windows key + X , and then click run, and then type: slui.exe 4
2. then press the ENTER"" key.
3. Select your "country" in the list.
4. choose the option "activate phone".
5. stay on the phone (do not select/press all options) and wait for a person to help you with the activation.
6. explain your problem clearly to the support person.
I want to install vegas pro 12 on my vpceh24fx, but I got a blue screen of death, it is the hard drive. I'm considering an upgrade and the ssd memory expansion now. Should what ssd and memory cards I expect to receive vegas pro 12? In addition, vaio pc recgonize will new drive? How can I install windows 7 after upgrade? Thanx
Thanks for posting in the community!
If you try to install a software on your laptop, so you met a blue screen, there is a strong possibility that this is just a software problem: maybe you installed incorrectly. You can help out for the average time before jumping to conclusions.
SSD upgrade, size matters. As long as the replacement SSD has the same size as the original one, it should work. However, you must install a retail version of Windows 7 more download drivers one by one to http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=VPCEH24FX&template_id=1®ion_id=1&tab=download#/do... You can use the recovery disks, or that you created or one of Sony, with the traditional hard drive Serial ATA (the one currently installed)
Upgrade memory, as much as possible, get the same type than what is in the machine. Must not however exceed max of 8 GB.
If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.
I recently heard that these latest Mbit/s do not allow users to upgrade RAM or SSD.
What is the latest model of MBP which will allow upgrades?
Would that be a model already abandoned?
Thank you very much!
No retina 13 inch MacBook Pro is extensible.
Previously, I did an upgrade to SSD on my Macbook Air to 2012 according to the instructions of JetDrive transcend. Basically connection via USB 3 and using Mac OS X to clear (and format) disc utilities new SSD, then restore again SSD and then remove the original 128 GB SSD and insert the new 480 GB SSD. For about a month and so far without problem.
Now I'm trying to 2012 Macbook upgrade my Pro partner (on 10.11.6). I got a Crucial SSD MX300 to replace his HARD drive. Crucial comes with (or recommend) Acronis software. And a lot of the messages of the forum recommend Carbon Copy Clone.
My question is if I can use the same method for the cloning of the HD as my Macbook Air (just restore disk of Mac OS X utilities)? This time, I'm upgrading HARD drive and I don't know if something is different. At the same time, if I got lucky the first time, I don't not ruin Macbook Pro my spouse this time.
Yes, you can use disk utility to clone your MBP wives, but unlike CCC, it will not clone the recovery and Partition.
I want to spend my Mac Pro hard drive to an SSD with a new installation of El Capitan, but I also want to continue to use Adobe CS3 (I can't afford a new version... > _ <). I read that some people have a lot of problems after upgrading their operating system, even when you use the legacy of Java 6 to CS3.
Someone at - it good tutorials step by step to install a new OS on a SSD? I have the adapter for my Mac to use the SSD drive also. I'm not * that * tech savvy, so I don't want to spoil anything! :\
Would it not be possible to keep my current hard drive with Snow Leopard and run Parallels or Fusion for Adobe CS3 on my SSD? I've never used Parallels or Fusion (preferences?), so where the Snow Leopard operating system to be need? On a partition on the SSD or can it be on its own hard drive (the one I'm currently using)?
Also do not know when I improve my OS, how do I tell my Mac to start El Capitan and not Snow Leopard so I keep the older operating system on its own hard drive? It is system-> startup disk preferences? Is that how I can go back, if I need to?
Here are my specs:
Mac Pro early 2008 (MacPro 3,1)
Quad-Core Intel Xeon 2.8 Ghz
16 GB RAM 800 MHz DDR2 FB-DIMM
HARD drive 500GBx2 (one is currently my Time Machine, I'll use it as a backup of my photos)
500GB SSD (no not in my Mac still installed)
4 TB HARD drive (will have Time Machine on half)
El Capitan would be really slow on my Mac Pro or should I go with the Mavericks or Yosemite? I'm just trying to extend the life of my Mac as long as possible!
I'm really sorry for all the questions! Thank you very much for any help! ^____^
~ Christina ~.
-Unless you have already "purchased" Mavericks or Yosemite is is not available for download.
-I just download the installer of El Capitan from the Mac App Store and run it and order that EL Capitan to be installed on the new SSD. You can then by pressing the Option key at startup to choose which version of the OS you want to boot from. You can set either as the default startup in system preferences > startup disk.
-During installation, you use the configuration wizard to migrate SN drive stuff. YO can also do it later using Migration Assistant but who has created a new used with the migrated data.
-With 16 GB of RAM and an SSD El Capitan will be fine
I have a 21.5-inch iMac model 14.1 (end 2013) with 8 GB of memory and a 1 TB drive. On this, I use some applications in memory such as Adobe CS 5.5 and VMWare Fusion 8.1.1. I have Applecare on the machine until September 2017. I often find myself running out of memory. My goto solution would be to increase the memory and replace the hard drive with an SSD. I fear, however, that this cancels my Applecare. My research indicates that while that frowned upon, I can upgrade my memory and keep my Applecare as long as it is done by an authorized by Apple, but if I do the SSD I'm out of luck for the installed components. My thought is that I can get an external SSD and move the ' WIndows 10' VM (s), as well as expand and move the swapfiles for the SSD system.»
My questions are am I right about the Applecare and warranty and I plan to use an external SSD to accelerate performance and ease the work of memory constraints?
I have f
I have a Macbook Air in 2010 and also a 2008 iMac - both with only 4 GB of memory (you have twice as much), both running El Capitan and the two with SSD - and perform very well. The 2008 iMac used to have a rotating disc which has recently failed, with the replacement of SSD, it is a remarkable transformation with the new SSD, it seems very quickly for me. Both have Photoshop CS4, which is not used much more, but they run this software very well, as well as MS Office 2011 and other programs such as Mail, Safari, Firefox, etc. (Firefox + Photoshop together put a noticeable load on machines, in fact, but while I sometimes hear the fans come on the Macbook Air, it maintains not up very well) No slowdown) You'll be in great shape with a SSD for your newer computer. These old machines that I use have Core 2 Duo CPUs, chips relatively slow, but they seem very quickly with the SSD.
You will need to check with Apple directly on your AppleCare and so that would be affected. I don't know that anyone is not Apple should trust this question.
Recently, I upgraded my hard drive for an SSD via a computer repair business in my neighborhood, I also upgraded the ram, but I don't think it's in the case. On a two weeks after the upgrade, my computer don't turn on more. I took it to the genius bar and they told me that the DSS had "failed." So of course, I took my computer to the computer repair company and they ran some tests, discovered that the hard disk does not (according to them, he only read this way because the apple store has run the test for a normal hard drive and not an SSD). I'm not super computer savvy, so I took their word for it.
Now, however, it has been nearly a month and my computer refuses to activate once again. Previously, it has worked well, the fans were running at full blast - what I knew would be a problem (although the repairman told me that they 'fixed' this issue too). So the first time, I downloaded a program called SSD fan control and set the fans to run in silent mode. This second time around, I realized that it was probably a bad idea because it could lead to overheating, so I put manually the fan speed so that we could hear still run, but just not as loud.
I tried the reset SMC, but no result. Right now, I unplugged everything including disconnect it from the power strip.
Any other experience of power with a new SSD failure? Is there anything else I could try at home before contacting the computer again repair business? I would not be able to reach at least until tomorrow, and I'm really curious to know how they managed to get my computer back on the first time.
Also, I've been out of my warranty period for about a year, so that's why I thought that I was not risking too much by exchanging the original for one SSD drive.
First of all, the original in Middle 2011 iMac hard drive had a temperature sensor integrated in the drive. More new or replacement of those who do not.
Other World Computing sells an Apple certified temperature sensor that plugs into the SATA cable.
I just put a 2 GB Western Digital Black in mine, with the sensor.
I suggest all first, reinstall the OEM disc and see if it boots.
Put the SSD in an external enclosure and see if it runs...
Check the new SSD 'visible' to the BIOS:
At first startup, use ESC to enter the BIOS settings, then check that BIOS 'sees' the new SSD as the original hdisk
Clone all partitions on hdisk--> new SSD
Start & connect to Windows and use Macrium Reflect (free) to clone all the partitions on hdisk for the new SSD - see large portico advice to:
Do not forget:
Result: cloned partitions now visible on new SSD. may have little extra/no allocated space on SSD (can deal with that later)
In the BIOS change the boot to new SSD drive
Reboot PC, press ESC to enter the BIOS to change the boot order:
Make sure that you have started of SSD and clean the unwanted drive mappings
Start & log Windows
(the fact that you can reach this point means that you have passed the first test)
Use Windows Disk Manager to
* ensure that C: is mapped to your new SSD.
* make sure that you can still see original hdisk, too
* suggest remove you mappings of unnecessary letters drive
(with the exception of the C: drive!) for all other partitions on hdisk or SSD
Test through full reboot
As a further test, do a reboot of Windows to make sure there are no problems with the start-up of SSD; again, once in Windows, use disk management to check again once your C: drive is the partition on the new SSD
Optimizing Windows SSD
There are several Windows setting changes that you should do when your primary/boot disk is an SSD, either:
All the problems?
Note that at this point, you still have your original hdisk with windows/data for a few days, so if this migration does not work, you can always go back by turning off the SSD and change the startup disk (in BIOS) originally hdisk
After a few days: some cleaning
When you are reasonably comfortable that your system is booting from SSD and Windows/apps work correctly, you can perform the following operations:
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