5 D Mark iii

I'm a new 5 5 d Mark iii owner.   I am wanting to get good shots of my nephew play basketball.  Any suggestions on preferred to get clear shots.  Thank you!

Here is a description of how to get your camera in a mode where it is optimized for basketball.  But before you go shoot a... practice game get all these settings dialed in and go do some shooting test for you ensure that you are comfortable with the way it all works.  If you want to learn the game you might lack-shots more simply because you are not yet used to the works of the camera when shooting sports.

IS owning an EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM II will certainly help (if you do not have the one of them already, put it on your wish list.  Everyone has this lens... or wants this goal.  It is not even of importance if you pull the sport - it is the goal of goto used by a lot of wedding and portrait photographers, and it is also the goal for indoor sports such as basketball.)  I have the original (version I) of this lens and it is the lens that lives on my camera all the time.

You probably want to use mode AF 6 cases (this is the recommended Canon for basketball - auto focus tracking mode although they also offer 4 cases).

Since you specifically want to follow your nephew and do not pull on any player, you might want to settle out of the 'sensibility' - this features determines how much the camera prefer to stick to a single topic vs pass and start tracking on a different topic.  The default value of the 6A box followed the sensitivity in the Middle at the level of the marker "0".    If you want the camera to stick to your subject and not be so willing to move to a new topic then you might want to disable tune elsewhere up to-1.   To do this:

  1. Press MENU
  2. Go to page 1 (of 5 possible pages of AF settings in the system menu) FA
  3. Access to the rear of select respectively 6 (the last case on the list), then press the SET button to select.
  4. Press RATE button to allow a custom setting.
  5. Use the back line to select "Tracking Sensitivity" (top choice - it can be highlighted by default because it is the first choice) and press SET to select.
  6. Use the rear wheel - and turn it in the opposite direction with a click to '-1' (to facilitate your stay ' locked on ' more 'reactive' - sensitive would cause him to jumpt to a new material more easily).  Press SET to lock in this change.
  7. Press MENU repeatedly to exit the menu system.

Then activate the "AI Servo" - the default mode is the mode of the development of 'One Shot'.  In One Shot mode, the camera will activate focus when you half-press the shutter button... but once he realizes the development on a topic, the system turns off and await you take the picture.  Unfortunately in the sport, that your subjects are constantly in motion... so if you take this shot the camera focus on the place where the player USED TO BE and not where they are now.

When you use the "AI Servo" mode, the camera will continuously follow focus so that the player moves.

Press the 'AF-Drive' button on top of the camera.

Use the front dial to mode selection "HAVE Servo".

Use the back line to select "high-speed" burst (it looks like a stack of 3 rectangles with an 'H' beside it.)

Then, put the camera in the correct AF point selection mode.

Press the button of the AF point selection.  It is the button in the extreme upper right corner on the back.  The icon looks like a rectangle with a pattern of cross in the shape of points in there (these are intended to resemble talking points.)

When the AF point selection menu is displayed on the back of the camera, press the M - Fn button (next to the shutter button on the top front of the camera) and this will cause its making scroll all the AF point selection modes available.  Mode "Auto selection: 61 pt AF" (which means the camera can use ANY point he wants.

One caveat... If for some reason you cannot take this mode... There is a menu that allows you to toggle modes.  If there is a way you think that you'd never use (some photographers simply toggle between two modes favorite all the time), you can turn off the ones you don't use.  If you have done this, then the mode you use could be disabled and you will need to reactivate this mode.)

NOW you are ready to shoot... but there are two caveats more you need to know.

#1 when you use the update of "AI Servo" mode, the unit also uses a behavior called "release priority".  Normally, your camera is in 'One Shot mode "that uses"Priority Focus"and that means that the camera will not take a shot until it can confirm a focus lock.  But in "Release priority" behavior the camera WILL TAKE the shot as SOON as you press the shutter button (shutter reelease) all down... and they're going to do it whether OR NOT IT WAS CENTERED!  If you need to make sure that the device locked focus and keeps track of your subject before press you the button completely or you will get just a lot of blurry photos.

#2--while the camera CAN use a 61 point AF in this mode... you will notice that when you put the viewfinder of the camera to your eye and half-press the shutter release button that you do not see a point AF (black square).  This is the point where the camera guess he'll START tracking your subject.  But since you have an automatic case followed enabled, it will "follow" your subject moving.  If you lose the subject, you must give this starting point on your topic to gain focus again on them.    BTW, you can choose any desired starting point.  As you look through the viewfinder, place your thumb on the browser of 8 channels (the small joystick controlled by your thumb just above the line back) and you will see you can rock up, down, left, right, etc. and the black square will go where you want (well... one of the 61 points AF.)

Don't be afraid to crank the ISO... the 5 d III can take it.  I think nothing of shooting at ISO 3200 and 6400 ISO same... While there is a bit of noise at ISO 6400, it is EASILY treated in post processing because it's going to be noise rather moderate.

Since you want to freeze action (you won't see the motion blur on your subjects) you'll want to keep the high shutter speed.

1/500th sec is generally fast enough to freeze most of the topics, but you might see * some * blur of movement at that speed... He sneak a little higher upward will be useful (e.g. 1/800th or even 1/1000th).

I second the recommendation to pull using Tv mode and set the shutter speed to 1/800th and use Auto ISO.   But... check the menu system for camera red page 2 (camera red tab... page 2 of 4 possible pages).  There is a 'ISO speed settings' option in this menu.  Please select this option and check "Auto ISO range".  I think it will be set to '100-12800' by default and that's fine.  But it is possible to reduce it... photographers who never want to shoot any ISO above at some point (for example assume that you never leave the Auto ISO to choose a frame above 1600) could set it to a low value that is too high for your interior lighting of basketball.   Just make sure that the camera is not permitted to mount the ISO when it should.

Adobe Lightroom has an option of noise reduction very good (which is strange because the noise reduction in Photoshop is a dismal failure.  If you use Photoshop full I rely on a plugin noise reduction called 'Noiseware Pro' by Imagenomic.)

Finally, there is an option called "button"return"focus" which like a lot of sports photographers.  It's practically a necessity before Canon started producing cameras with their new RIR system (it's tracking system smart topics to follow.).  The problem with old cameras was that in order to take a (full press the shutter button) you have to half press the shutter and focus WHICH triggered.  So if you follow an athlete and someone else gets in the way, the focus system normally developed to this distracting subject and not the subject.    So they released a feature called back focus button, which sets the focus to a "back" button (by default, this is the AF-ON button on a 5 d III, but it can be reassigned.)  This allows to take focus on the shutter button (half-pressing the shutter button will be 'meter' but won't focus.  A full press will still take the hit, but to focus the camera, you press the AF-ON button).  This allows you to keep an eye on distractions and take your thumb on the AF-ON button (if the camera stops the update from the update) until the distraction gets out of the frame and then you can continue to focus on your subject again.    You CAN activate this feautre if you wish (it is disabled by default).  It grows some nuts people... but some people who stick with it and get used to shoot ever sport otherwise.

Tags: Canon Camera

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