a7ii modes of viewfinder (studio shooting)

Similar Questions

• Slow shooting in manual mode.

  Hello world

  I noticed that on the set of continuous, manual shoots at only half the speed of the sport mode on my 1100D (Rebel T3). I disabled all the features of treatment such as the correction of iso noise high and optimizer of lighting, etc..  I can't find anything in the manual to this topic or if im wondering if it is possible to reach the full speed of shooting in manual or weather it's just a feature of the camera.

  EDIT: I turn also in jpeg and don't help change quality.

  When you are in manual, you using the same focus and development of mode, the way of "sport"?  I'm pretty sure tha the T3 uses all points of focus when you put it in the modes "basic", which should include the "sport" mode  Also, I am certain that the 'sport' mode does not use the 'One Shot Focus'

  If you only use the center point, your camera might be little slower to lock focus, compared to when it makes use of all the points of discussion.  Take a photo in 'sport' mode and playback of shooting with all the shooting information displayed, do note the focus mode setting and the focus adjustment.  Carefully compare the settings of the sport mode for what you have set when you use the manual mode.

• Are Canon SX50 - programming (with RAW) mode you able to review the photo after you take it?

  Just bought my camera and have carefully read the manual.  I want to work in program mode, so that I can shoot in RAW.  However, I can't seem to figure out what combo of menus and functions, I can use so that I can get a review of my photo after consider.  This feature works well in Auto Mode - but in Auto Mode, I can't shoot in RAW.  Anyone?

  Thank you

  You should be able to press the control button to the right of the optical viewfinder to view images, regardless of what you are in the mode. It does not matter if the image is so RAW or JPEG. I assume that you entered in the menu and ensures that you do not have the exam put off.

  Steve M.

• Canon Rebel XS - does not work in AI Focus or ONE SHOT mode

  Hello

  My camera was working fine until now, and all of a sudden she decided to not work. I have 2 lenses with me, the standard 18-55 and another 75-300. On the 18-55, when I try to take photos in AF mode, it will keep the flicker of the flash but will never take a photo. I read a few posts earlier and tried to take pictures in P, Tv, AV, M modes by selecting HAVE Focus and ONESHOT and it won't take a picture. In all of these modes, if I select AI SERVO, it take pictures.

  I tried to clean my lens too, but it does not help. When I used the 75-300 lens, the camera is able to take pictures in AF with I-Focus.

  Can someone please help and I would like to know if my lens 18-55 a bad shot or can it be solved somehow.

  If the camera and the lens cannot focus even outside sunny day is certainly a problem.

  By chance you happen to own other objectives (or have a friend or a family member with a lens Canon EOS, you might be able to test on your camera body.)

  It is more likely that the development in the lens system does not rather than the camera body (because all moving parts associated with the focus system live inside the lens).

  Your camera has in fact two independent systems to focus.  The primary system is "phase detection" auto focus system  It's the fastest system and it uses sensors that live on the bottom of the camera (just below the reflex mirror).  This system is used when you use the camera normally looking in the viewfinder to take the picture.

  The other system is a system of development of "contrast detection.  This system uses the image of the camera sensor to evaluate the development.  It is not as fast as the phase detect system and must hunt for focus (a bit like a camera point & shoot) but it is true.  This system is used only when you put the camera in "Live view" (when you're using the LCD screen to compose and take the picture rather than looking in the viewfinder).

  If IT a problem with the phase-detect setting point sensors, you can put the unit in "Live view" and take some pictures.   If it works in Live View mode, but works not in mode normal (viewfinder), then the problem is in your camera.  If this does not work in viewfinder or Live View mode then the problem is almost certainly with the goal.

• SLTA77/A65/A57/A37 CROP in video mode

  Hello

  The electronic shooting adds an extra culture of 1.2 in video mode! After the shooting the extra harvest is still there! To avoid this extra crop in video mode!

  It is a big disadvantage compared to other brands of DSLRs where this issue of culture does not exist in video mode. When we spend so much on lenses (e.g. wide-angle), it is difficult to accept this dramatic change in the field of view in video mode, even after the deactivation of the electronic shooting. I know it's bothering a lot of users and potential buyers.

  Please address this problem in the next firmware update.

  Thank you for your attention.
  Kris

  Hello, I agree with you, this cameras need to turn off the video of culture when steadyshot is turned off, I own a sony A77 and I am disappointed by this function.

• Canon 6 d. Viewfinder is disabled. How do I turn it back on?

  I have disabled somehow the viewfinder and can only take photos using the rear LCD. How can I activate the return vewfinder?

  To the right of the optical viewfinder (or upper-right corner fo the LCD screen) there is a button labeled "Start/Stop" but notice the ring around the button is actually a swtich... which can be turned to the position of the camera or a video position.

  Make sure that the swing is turned to the position of the camera.

  When the switch is in the position of the camera, by pressing the button toggles the camera between the mode normal viewfinder vs live-view (LCD screen) to compose & take photos.

• Display of the Live view for Nex - C3

  ... my nex - c3 seems to be missing LIVE VIEW DISPLAY, setting on / off... I could really use this function for studio shooting... is a way or work around to get this feature? Thanks, Ronnie_B

  It is true that the NEX - C3 does not view display life setting. To work around the problem, you can set the mode of the camera shoot backwards, or S to frame the subject. Once this is done, you can set the shooting in M mode and take the picture.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.

  http://bit.LY/LapMagWin

• Custom creation read for DSLR (i.e. Canon 70 d) for use w/Lumetri?

  Does anyone have any advice or experiences on the tools used, or how to create custom LUTs for Canon turned 70 d w/relatively neutral picture style or similar? For me, it is not so much that I want to reinvent a wheel as much as simply understand how to play with the experience of the creation of such a LUT to see not only how can I do, but what kind of results/comfort I can achieve.

  A little history: I'm relatively new to images of DSLR shooting (no photos but video). I use a Canon 70 d.

  I recently learned a little about some of the popular photo there models which allow to draw in relatively neutral sequences which apparently has some advantages in post (but not always). My understanding is that the output of 8 bits in many DSLRs, including the 70 d restrict the dynamic range that can be represented for some types of shooting, more specifically producing jpg files in the device, as well as. MOV, which requires treatment with loss in camera, where the style of photo (in terms of Canon) allows to define what color ranges to focus on and other minutiae, all designed to describe what is important to remember in the limited space of a DSLR. I guess this allows video capture in camera more effectively use space of 8 bits for color definitions. I guess lut helps solve some of this use when ingestion.

  I have learned quite a bit of this with quick searches some time ago, but have a very general understanding, enough to produce correct results without even using a LUT in the post, but it would be nice to know more, or at least be pointed in some good directions.

  Oh, after looking on the net and learning a few styles of popular image and LUTs etc, I read a very interesting post useful somewhere I think that in this forum... someone with extensive experience in this area pointed to someone who shot so-called video diary on a DSLR is not true newspaper and that the amateur filmmakers who consider it are often something cinema that is not all he did to be... who, for example, reduce the saturation at the time of the shooting on a DSLR can produce apparently-looking pictures on the newspaper, but it certainly loses 'chroma', which cannot be recovered despite what the hype on such people. I found it instructive but is also puzzled by how many are apparently very happy shooting more neutral DSLR footage benefits w / apparent in post... the final essential I found myself with: it really depends on all the situation where if we know the style for the scene, and the post READ or whatnot and it works, great... but what a style shooting time (w/post LUT) is no guarantee not any kind of cinematic look (or any another look) for all scenes/situations and some or many of the cases, can guarantee that you will be without color because you have loaded the camera so that he too gives up while thinking about a correction station can recovery that has lost... and he can't.

  So it's kind of image w/REFLEX designs, taken from neutral view (fake log), where I'm posting corrections including LUTs... curious to hear the thoughts or create discussion.

  SHOOTING

  First thing to know about shooting with most all current & past DSLR, is that you are working with 8-bit codecs. Essentially, 4:2:0 and you can look for a more detailed explanation elsewhere. There are a few that can make 10 bits (4:2:2) and of course, high platforms range pro sometimes shoot 16 bits (4:4:4). GH4 Panny for example has a 10-bit mode. IF you have an external recorder that can handle the work, it can turn off the 10-bit files. But it will not save them on the internal drive.

  Well... I worked with a little media GH4 Panny, photographed myself... and it's a bit "thicker" than the 8 bits of the camera (as much as the maneuverability), but... not as much as I expected. There are differences between the actual quality of the files from different cameras that do not appear to be explained by any details of the specifications. (And I do not work with the GH4.) I wanted more than 10 bits of the GH4, actually. I'm hoping to get the eventual GH5.

  Example... of the images fixed cameras. My D200 was a 'generation' earlier that my D3... and that D3 is only a 12.2 megapixels, compared to the 10.2 of the D200. Do just a bit of 'post processing' by changing the contrast, saturation/color changes and the bad 'broken' file of the D200. Artifacts, banding, macro - blocking it's RAW files. Go above ISO 1600? Oh my... No.

  The D3? Same 'depth' of files, just a little more pixels, right? VERY different files... mangle these things in all directions, practically bend them backwards... no signs of damage. BEAUTIFUL images. It is not just the bit depth or even just the codec. Those who were far better image... and perfectly manipulated elements in the processor of the camera, preparing the record of the image. ISO 6400? No problem. Higher? Well... maybe need a little shade in position and a bit of noise reduction. But still... usable for a picky fool like me.

  The D600 is a generation later than the D3 and a LOT more pixels. Greatly improved, it should be even better, right? Well... we still use the D3 when passing over 3200 ISO and much... Although the D600 has many more pixels, to print a 30 x 40 inches? I prefer the D3, the D600 is quite credible to 30 x 40 and a little more.

  Is the same in video, especially in DSLRs. Not all equal camera specifications... are equal in the real world work. And your comment about to realize that some people, trying to mimic the shooting journal styles of spendy cameras 'pro', go so flat that they cannot recover properly... is dead on. You must study the camera (s) that you are handling, test the. Test the media. Break it. Until you know all the ways to break, you can't push it as far as you can without breaking. You can't make the most of it.

  Then... shooting DSLR in order to get as much as you can in this media probably 8-bit, you must...

  Choose to start with a fairly neutral 'profile'. You don't want to do anything 'jumped '.

  Reduce the contrast until you keep the MOST dynamic that the camera can record. It varies between cameras. That's why you reduce contrast... just to draw a greater number of pixels as this camera can provide. Do not pull the contrast more far. You don't win anything it. It is NOT a spendy video-built platform with 12-bit capacity.

  Sharpness... most of the cameras were execrable sharpening "routines". Some cameras can operate very well left a few ticks from the bottom of their sharpness setting, some need to be so low that it goes all the way down. TEST. Any editing software has better sharpening than this camera.

  Saturation... a lot of DSLR overcook red, especially in midrange/highlights. Some can do with green or blue, but it is almost always red. Decline by saturation, so you don't get too saturated is a good thing. That's the only reason to back your saturation. Depending on the camera, you will be typically halfway between the middle position "0" and the lowest setting before you get "there". Safe. And that of all you want, is the TV broadcast good saturation in the reds. You can set all the rest if necessary.

  Hue... When you do a good white balance in a controlled lighting situation, with all the lights in the same type of quality 'bulb', and he still had to pull secondary on a particular shade or quadrant all the time, you might be able to adjust the hue of your camera and get a 'normal' a little better out of it.

  Some devices have other controls... "pedestal" and others. In most of the DSLR, those who are of limited utility. I did not talk about any camera in the DSLR group who had really wonderful abilities unlocked to use these controls. In the test, you could get help in some circumstances.

  Then... the final result, is you shoot as neutral as possible, using the controls of the camera to get a broad dynamic range on possible chip, protect your media oversaturation in the reds in particular and... one more thing.

  HIGHLIGHT OF THE EXHIBITION AND THE IN-CAMERA WHITE BALANCE.

  Figure out what 'works' for you for the white balance and use wisely. I tend to use the most recent ExpoDiscs for general things, and of course, it should be used to the position that you are shooting at (where your subject will be)... underlined the primary light source. Nail the exposure setting in the histogram on the camera while the ExpoDisc is on the lens (spike exhibition in this dead histo), THEN do with the ExpoDisc white balance. At other times, I do a simple adjustment of kelvin. It's one or the other. Some use things of auditor of passport, some do other things. Do SOMETHING that gives you consistent and predictable results.

  You don't have the number of colors to do much 'corrective' color-balancing in post. And considering that you also have to allow a little 'margin' to creative coloring, you need to pretty much nails "neutral"-cam.

  I STRONGLY recommend getting an external monitor to your camera that shows the false colors and set your exposure according to this monitor. Use of the indicator for whites, especially set your exposure protecting the salient facts necessary. Know where your black and set the lights for them if necessary... but drop where they are going. The ISO and exposure for whites.

  In available darkness shooting, worry less do everything Mount ISO underexpose. Exposure necessary darks is BAD... When you 'lift' them you can get the hang of macros.  A small reduction of extra noise at an ISO setting higher is much better to handle in position to try to eliminate the blocking of macros.

  JOURNAL of shooting... Some cameras now do have a sort of "journal", as saying that the Panny GH4 East and several others. In the GH4, it was more of a public relations thing, is my estimate. The log parameter does not well outdoors in bright situations... MANY problems of banding... but it helps me to some in the studio lighting. This is a very nice addition to studio shooting, but when even... correctly set footage 'normal' from the studio of GH4 works pretty well. A GH5... maybe this will be a huge advantage. Maybe not.

  Some other devices, in the Canon and Sony especially, get some additional benefits of their journal parameters. However, to open an exhibition and other parameters of the camera are rather crucial and difficult to "verify" during the filming, he must test and know your cold gear. They are not a panacea.

  Follow the above, and you will get more constantly out of the camera that you can make the most of post. And Yes, a few very good colorists know I tell stories wonderful to get Arri media and such... which is total crap that the camera or the DP operator did not really know what they were doing. Or he just blew. And now, of course, they want the colorist to fix what is about... truncated of mush. Mutilated mush of a back is not much better than porridge mutilated to a Canon MkIV. But beautifully and technically perfect media of any camera... worth to work with.

  Neil

• Compositing in CS5

  Hello

  I do a studio shoot, which involves:

  (1) shooting some white cut wooden sign hanging in front of a wall light blue (and cast soft shadows, I want to remember)

  (2) using the same pale blue wall I'm shooting some models (especially children) and similar lighting so I expect soft shadows.

  These two plans must be met together for registration appears above photos of children.

  Did a quick last test and he's not going to be easy.

  It is always a "bump" where an image is placed above the other.

  Softening of the edges just is not the case I fear and try to harmonize the levels of one image to another is just producing strange results.

  I don't know that I heard of a workflow process to do this (on blend modes maybe?), but can't think of what it is.

  Someone out there who has successfully addressed this kind of problem? Be happy to learn a few words of advice.

  It was just too difficult... so finally just isolated the cutting of lettering and created a separate layer.

  With layer effects makes a very convincing shadow and highlight the little letter ever so real.

  Works a treat now.

• Playmemories House, view multiple HDR-AS30V problem

  I spent hours to find my Playmemories was installed PAL, then did my region Win7 settings in the United States in order to install the NTSC version... Also, my Cam Action is set to NTSC and I'm recording 1080/30 p because of this error;

  "Cannot display the titles recorded SLOW or BE mode using"

  After shooting several videos (GPS is turned on and he sees playmemories.) I imported and tried to make the multiview video but the program continues to display the same error and I can only click on "Add slow segment", there is no other options...

  Any help is appreciated, as a lover of Sony that I be disappointed the first time...

  As PlayMemories Home 1.1 is available for Mac OS X, my problem is solved. This version addresses my videos (with gps data) without any problem.

• I get the blue screen of death, I do before going to the Geek squad?

  I get the blue screen of death, I then close my pc and restart in safe mode and then trouble shoot. I can then restart normally and then it is fine for awhile. I don't always have to be on the internet to get the blue screen. I have AVG and super anti-spy ware and run full scans and they say that there are no threats. So what else can I try?

  Messages you receive when you restart the computer, more a review of the event viewer should help you determine what is causing the BSOD.  The BSOD is not necessarily related to malicious software.

  You have posted in the forum for the forum of anti-malware for Microsoft Security Essentials (MSE).  Since you're using AVG, your post is off-topic for this forum.

  You can expect from a forum moderator move your message or if you want to, you can seek assistance in search and/or post in the appropriate Forum Windows:

  http://answers.Microsoft.com/en-us

  Kind regards...

• NEX 6 Feature request

  Since it seems that I am the first here, I'll start features I have the NEX or NEX 6 system in particular.

  1. help PDAF or say autofocus hybrid video to eliminate hunting

  2 make it possible to use autofocus hybrid or PDAF with alpha on LA - EA1 lens

  3 give us the opportunity to create the AUTO ISO in manual mode. Since we have 2 dials it would be perfect to set the shutter speed and the opening of the dials and leave the camera ISO corresponding desired EV

  4. we give the possibility to define a function for the second dial and S Mode

  5 give. us the possibility to select and delete several photos at once in the Viewer

  6. (gordonshamway) allow control to remotely operate in any mode of the camera and have exactly the same result as pressing the shutter button. I would like to see possible with modes, Auto HDR, handheld shooting Twighlight (even if it's the name of the absurdity of the scene mode) continuous and bracketing.

  7. (micktravis) the opportunity of the development through one of the two keys

  8. (antifocus) more ISO small steps

  9. (Other1) (me) let us set a max AUTO ISO and min. shutter, so that we can prevent the ISO to jump too high and if use manual lens shutter is are not below the 1 /(FL*1,5) (as on the Nikon DSLRs)

  10. (antifocus) instead of pressing the button to change the exposure compensation, just use the second wheel for her

  11. (XmattX) in playback mode, switch between images while zoomed in, he would make comparison sharpness in a lot of pictures so much easier

  12. (DanielKit) Zoom functions should just crop the image. It is not necessary for interpolation and enlarge the image to 16 M

  13. (DanielKit) if possible, let this crop/zoom in RAW as well!

  14. (I) function real killer: many people in fact denies using tune-up manual assist zoom because it is difficult to compose without seeing your borders the picture. Dpreview SQLGuy suggested, to make "a partial view of magnification. It works like this: the borders of the image are not changed, in the Middle, there is a square that showes the manual zoom in to help. Also, I'd appreciate it if you could edit the manual development assistance magnigication! I think it's far to high magnificated!

  

  Like this

  Updated the 08.03.13

  I'll add useful features or important than another user may suggest in this list.

  
  

• IPS-4240-K9 IDM number 6.2 control events

  Hello world

  I noticed a tangled because of edge idm monitoring events. It does not show alerts, I noticed on the page of welcome home/netwrok security health sensor cyrcle. During the last 5 minutes sensor shows, for example, 10 red alerts, but when I switch on the dashboard of events - there is nothing on this table...

  Several days ago, I saw some periodic alerts on 4003 signature - nmap udp scan. Happening in the course of the week, and I think that quaintity of alerts real tine on the sensor cyrcle of health and on the table of events were the same.

  only that I now note 3041 signature and a few times errorMessage:-store event wrapped autour [IdsEventStore::writeEvent (), index As Integer = 19531] name = errWarning

  I read a few notes about this error, but do not understand what what do I change to display real-time alerts and signature 4003 (when idm is working properly, that it has been the main attack). confoguration virtually all of the default values. IPS works in promiscious mode

  Thanks for any help and advice

  Regarding the message "'errorMessage:-the event rolled around store" "

  The events are stored in a circular buffer. Once the buffer is full, we simply would crush the oldest event. If you see several of these messages, it means that the number of events is really high. You can set frequency of alerts > summary Mode for signatures that shoot a lot.

  Check out the following link to configure the summary Mode:

  http://www.Cisco.com/en/us/products/sw/secursw/ps2113/products_tech_note09186a0080838bcf.shtml#IDM

  Kind regards

  Sawan Gupta

• Lightroom Mobile make Public

  A vision for Lightroom Mobile is to make a Studio Shoot teathered and send the selected images to a client using 'Make Public' which provides a unique URL which can be sent to a customer for its display on his own computer, laptop or Tablet and comment.  The process works perfectly until the client wants to comment on one or more images.  When the customer clicks the 'comment' or 'Like' icons, he is immediately asked his Adobe ID and password, or sign up for the Adobe I identification code can't imagine a customer willing to do that, unless he has already an Adobe customer in all probability identification code is even aware of Adobe.  The only justification that I see to ask an Adobe ID must indicate which returns the comment.  Why don't you just ask the customer name and email address (you know since you sent the link to him by emil), which should be sufficient to identify it.  Without this change, I discovered this vision for Lightroom Mobile as a failure.

  Can it be implemented in a future update?

  Kent Messamore

  [email protected]

  Hello Kent, make you a perfectly reasonable suggestion. Others have raised similar questions. Add your vote, where the Adobe staff is more likely to see here:

  Lightroom: Support comments and in everyone, publish services | Community customer Photoshop family

• LR CC Windows 10 Canon 5 d Mk iii hooked on file transfer

  Connects camera and camera visible sign on the screen. Take a photo and file transfer files never downloads and remains lit. I have graphics disabled, set AutoPlay to take no action. I checked that the camera has the latest firmware. I checked the updates on LR. I checked for updates on Windows 10. I changed the cable to the camera. I formatted the card in the camera. I removed the SD card in the camera. I've started and restarted LR. This computer has worked on the Windows 8.1. I checked the Canon forums and forums Windows nothing helped. Any suggestions?

  Thank you very much for your efforts. I rebooted LR checked permissions of reading and writing and finally stumbled on the solution. It was completely independent. When I start captive capture it always opens with the name of session and I always left at the "Studio Session. For some reason, I have renamed to ABC and left a bunch of...'s in front of the ABC. That's when LR to stop the file transfer. Frustration, I renamed the return to 'Studio Session' Session and it started working. Just to let you know that I do not and have no knowledge of LR, except that I use for the capture of the fasteners to monitor my studio shoots. I prefer cab and PS for my work.

  That drove me crazy. Thanks again.