Bad/Broken device?

Hey,.

Sorry in advance if this is confusing. If necessary, I'll save the problem in action and post a link or something.

I had my e250 for a 1 1/2-2 years now. He's worked a lot with some small problems here and there. But recently, the scroll wheel has been dismantled. Not wheel physical scrolling, but on the device of the screen (the scroll bar and volume bar).

-For example, when I try to increase my volume, start moving the wheel clockwise to turn up the volume. But as we start scrolling, the volume bar begins jumping up and down. Mainly in the direction opposite. It is random and with random/distances lengths.

- Or when I try and scroll in one of the menus, I try to go back, and he starts to jump around. If I try to go for Atreyu to Alkaline Trio, need me a minute or two to back up less than ten artists. He did the same thing on the way down.

I tried to use the key (also known as the the music menu button) down, but which becomes annoying very, very fast and does nothing for the volume.

This wouldn't really be a problem if my lock switch worked. But unfortunetly, it has erupted recently. I ahd to open 2 rear covers, move the switch with a screwdriver and then put a little piece of tape on her canvas on the outside... >.

I'd rather not get a new device for many reasons. Mainly because I'd probably end up getting an iPod (which I won't for reasons somewhat.)

Is it possible to fix this, or am I left with no option but get a new mp3 player/music device?

1 million thanks!

FREMM

Advertisement

Remove the drive and clean the scroll wheel mechanism.  Joustin.com has a few pictures, even if your model is perhaps slightly different than illustrated.

Tags: SanDisk Sansa

Similar Questions

  • NCAA games go to bad audio device, even when I say o/s otherwise. How to replace Firefox?

    I guess that's a FF issue, since everything else seems to work OK. I have a USB headset plugged into the USB hub under my desk. I use the properties of the Audio devices > Audio in the control panel (XP Pro) to switch between the headphones and speakers of the laptop.

    The problem is that I can't sound through Laptop speakers playing games via Firefox NCAA without unplugging the USB headset physically. I hate to crawl under my desk to do it. If I tell the OS what speakers to use, do not change it. I should be able to force audio to speakers for computer without physically disconnect them. I use my laptop to a large number of web conversations with my helmet, but I don't want to physically disconnect when I what to listen without headphones.

    No sooner had I posted my complaint that I discovered that other applications have the same problem, although I said otherwise. And FF works fine if the USB headset is activated as the device by default until I start FF (or tab maybe the FF). Maybe the 'problem' is the operating system, if it does not notify a change of aircraft FF. Or, maybe the problem is FF, if it does not acknowledge the notification from the OS.

    In any case, I now have a work-around that seems compatible with other applications on Windows. However, any other ideas would be appreciated always. I think that changing the operating system's audio playback device must notify immediately and performed by all applications using the headphones/speakers/whatever, regardless of when the application started.

    Bye... done so far

  • notification through bad output device sounds

    I just noticed that my opinion sounds (messages specifically) play in my speakers system even when they are not selected as the output device. I have currently a USB headset connected to my end 2012 27 "iMac running the latest version of El Captian and my message notifications play aloud while all other system sounds are coming in my helmet. Anyone know of a solution for this?

    Thank you

    What you have chosen in the preferences-> sound effects system?

  • not a question, a statement: I've just updated to the latest you have. I had to use the EXPLORER of this post. He is so badly broken that I can use is no longer on my alienware. everything goes black, I can't scroll the page, nothing WORKS ANYMORE

    See direct links to photobucket too, I can't go back to a previous version cause I don't have the time to make a backup of it.
    I load and I get this.
    http://i479.Photobucket.com/albums/rr156/joshiki_r/brokenmozilla.PNG
    I hover over the 'x' now hidden in the corner to close it, I get this
    http://i479.Photobucket.com/albums/rr156/joshiki_r/brokenmozilla2.PNG
    It all comes back, but everything gets all flashy and could give someone a which

    http://www.Mozilla.com/en-us/Firefox/all-older.html

    http://support.Mozilla.com/en-us/KB/installing+a+previous+version+of+Firefox

  • Acrobat thinks bad scanner device name is "Brother Twain."

    When I try to choose the Scanner ' Brother MFC-9340CDW ' newly installed in Acrobat to create a new document in the scanner, "Brother Twain" is listed as a scanner rather than the name of the correct scanner (Brother MFC-9340).  I am under El Capitan (OSx 10.11.5) and Acrobat 8.3.1 the scanner works well with the Brother Control Center application and when I scan of system-> printers and Scanners--> Scan preferences.  I don't know other applications scan that I installed.

    The problem is that for some reason, Acrobat thinks that the scanner is named "Brother Twain" rather than "Brother MFC-9340CDW.

    I got the message "cannot communicate with scanner" for two consecutive days to determine the problem.  I reinstalled and restarted again today after I posted my question and everything now works fine using the name scanner 'Brother Twain'.  My problem is now solved and I'm a happy camper.  Thank you.

  • Pls need your urgent help - DVD player is broken

    In my laptop LG was broken device, model - Toshiba sd-r9012 DVD-CDRW, it has only 9.5 mm thick, ultraslim, and I can't find the place to buy it in Moscow.
    Would you like to sell me this device or compatible with it devices (dvd - rw or dvd-cdrw internal) advice?

    Best regards
    Evgeniy Pavlov

    [Edited by: admin August 20 05 14:13]

    Hello

    You can contact the SAV Toshiba partner in Moscow. I'm sure they can order this disc for you. Otherwise you can contact the manufacturer of the laptop computer and ask them which drives are compatible with it.

    Check out these pages
    http://www.CSD.Toshiba.com/cgi-bin/TAIS/Su/su_gaspLocator.jsp?PF=true
    http://www.Toshiba-Europe.com/EU/contact/details.asp?group=by+country

    Good bye

  • Windows Server 2008 Enterprise upgrade of 2008 has beaten the bad standard

    Hello

    I installed a virtual server for production of Windows Server 2008 Standard, Windows Server 2008, Enterprise Edition (32-bit x 86/i386, support of license Volume and MAK), because I needed some additional features in the Enterprise edition.  During the upgrade process, the server hung a few times, requiring a "hard reset" to continue the installation (which seems normal for the installation of Server 2008 on this virtual hardware).

    However, after the installation is "complete", the server seems badly broken: the local view is empty, with a mobile mouse pointer.  Remote Desktop connection with takes a long time (more than an hour!, even after additional restart), to go beyond 'Application user settings', and once connected, the basic points are broken: starting server manager reports that it might not activate a plugin whose GUID I can't find in a web search, open the 'centre' of the network shows a blank window by typing "NET START someservicename" or 'SC START someservicename' hangs rather than launch this service or signals an error.

    Anyone know how to get out of this quagmire, short copy the latest data and wiping the hard drive?

    Please repost your request in one of the most appropriate Microsoft Windows Server Forums, thank you!

  • BlackBerry Passport loop of reboot. Support of BB does not recognize my device.

    My passport is currently a brick. I recently did an OTA 10.3.1.2000 update something, and about a week later, the phone is off. Connection it keeps restarting. I noticed that it would restart spontaneously since I got it, no matter what version was running on it. I'd take my pocket, it is hot, and all open applications would have generic previews.

    The real problem is that the abstraction layer special BB set up to keep phones carrier out of the support queue crashes me because apparently the PIN I is not recorded by Amazon. Anyway is to a human being behind the BB support? Apparently, with their position in the Smartphone market tenous, they did not doubledown on the service the customer...

    I read my first post again and realized I left an inference here on Amazon, but did not state it's where I bought it. But tl; Dr. the thread:

    1a. If you have a purchased Amazon passport with a question, you can submit a form to the BlackBerry to validate your device and request support. The form is here: https://consumersupport.webapps.blackberry.com/support/form/amazon_en/

    1B. If the form does not validate your purchase, get your proof of purchase and go to http://www.blackberry.com/incidentsupport to get the phone number of the support incident. Tell them that you have a phone with an Amazon problem and you need to get a ticket. They should refer to the main support line where they walk through a few troubleshooting (which is very probably charging your handset OS, so backup!) and if the problem is intractable on the phone provide an RMA number.

    2. you will have two choices for an RMA number:

    • Replacement of tip: give them a credit card number and they will send you another Passport, and you can forward your broken device. If so, your card will be refunded the amount of the difference between the responsibility of the repair and the new handset.
    • Ship repair: If you have a backup phone, they send a box to send in your broken, passport that does not initially cost anything. It will be if they are not responsible for the repair.
  • Someone at - he used CameraRoll yet? Seems completely broken.

    I am currently implementing navigation for a file using the CameraRoll since File.Browse () methods are still badly broken. I have implemented a method of load using the example of the documentation. Unfortunately, it seems simply crash the application. Here's the code to date.

    private function load(e:MouseEvent):void
    {
        trace("loading");
        menu.close();
        if( CameraRoll.supportsBrowseForImage )
        {
            var mediaSource:CameraRoll = new CameraRoll();
    
            mediaSource.addEventListener( MediaEvent.SELECT, imageSelected );
    
            mediaSource.browseForImage();
        }
        else
        {
            var myFile:File = File.documentsDirectory;
            var filter:FileFilter = new FileFilter("Images", "*.png;*.jpg")
            myFile.browse( [filter]);
            myFile.addEventListener(Event.SELECT,chooseFile);
        }
    }
    
    private function imageSelected( e:MediaEvent ):void
    {
        trace(e.target.nativePath);
        img.setImage(e.target.url);
    }
    
    private function chooseFile(e:Event):void
    {
        trace(e.target.nativePath);
        trace(e.target.name);
        var name2:File = File.desktopDirectory.resolvePath(e.target.name);
        trace(name2.nativePath);
    
        img.setImage(name2.url);
    }
    

    I'm detection to see if the film is supported and then using one of the two callback methods to load the file.  It could be done with the method of a reminder if we could rely on the event. Target property from the File.Browse method, but we cannot and this is another problem.

    In any case, it seems very simple. When he runs in the sim card, the supportsBrowseForImage property is true indicating it is supported, but on the browseForImage() call, the application disappears. The callback is never called. I think I can see a gray bottom bar as if the app were reduced to a minimum, but I can't bring it back. Heck, I can't yet bring up the system menu. If I redeploy the application (which causes the previous uninstall) it seems to recover.

    I use FB Burrito and am, I changed the project settings to use the SDK.94. I use the simulateur.94.

    I installed TourDeMobileFlex found here: http://flex.org/TourDeMobileFlex.fxp

    The TourDeMobileFlex camera seems to work fine in the 0.9.4 Simulator. He opens the roll and you can choose your image saved previously.

    The CameraRoll of the TourDeMobileFlex code:


    http://ns.Adobe.com/MXML/2009.
    xmlns:s = "library://ns.adobe.com/flex/spark".
    paddingTop = "10" >


            
    If (CameraRoll.supportsBrowseForImage)
    {
    var cameraRoll:CameraRoll = new CameraRoll();
    cameraRoll.addEventListener (MediaEvent.SELECT, {function(event:MediaEvent):void}
    i.source = event.data.file.url;
    });
    cameraRoll.browseForImage ();
    }
    on the other
    {
    l.Text = "CameraRoll; not supported
    }
            

        

        
        
            
    If (CameraRoll.supportsAddBitmapData)
    {
    var cameraRoll:CameraRoll = new CameraRoll();
    var bd:BitmapData = new BitmapData (640, 480);
    bd.perlinNoise (640, 480, 1, Math.floor (Math.random () * 10), false, true);
    i.source = bd;
    cameraRoll.addBitmapData (comics);
    }
    on the other
    {
    l.Text = "CameraRoll; not supported
    }
            

        

        
        
        
        
        

  • FM 8 print to PDF generates bad file names. Why?

    I use Framemaker 8 on Windows XP.

    I have a book with thirty chapters, for a total of something like 1100 pages.

    I updated the book, generated table of contents and Index files and need to print in a set of files PDF, a single PDF by chapter.

    But when I do that, all PDFs are badly named. Instead of being named Chapter_1.pdf, Chapter_2.pdf, etc., that they are named BookTitle (Chapter_1.pdf, BookTitle (Chapter_2.pdf, etc.))

    I know that I managed to generate files with the correct names in the past, and I tried all afternoon to figure out how I did it. Nothing in the dialog boxes appears to control this behavior of appellation... What is it? And more importantly, how can I solve this?

    K

    K.

    The ' * ' technique is the old, standard way to do it. Note that in FM8, the print dialog contains an additional line that asks you if you want to print the book as separate files or a single file. It is a new feature introduced with FM8 and unfortunately, uses the name of the book as part of the naming convention.

    Another BAD (broken as expected) function...

  • Custom creation read for DSLR (i.e. Canon 70 d) for use w/Lumetri?

    Does anyone have any advice or experiences on the tools used, or how to create custom LUTs for Canon turned 70 d w/relatively neutral picture style or similar? For me, it is not so much that I want to reinvent a wheel as much as simply understand how to play with the experience of the creation of such a LUT to see not only how can I do, but what kind of results/comfort I can achieve.

    A little history: I'm relatively new to images of DSLR shooting (no photos but video). I use a Canon 70 d.

    I recently learned a little about some of the popular photo there models which allow to draw in relatively neutral sequences which apparently has some advantages in post (but not always). My understanding is that the output of 8 bits in many DSLRs, including the 70 d restrict the dynamic range that can be represented for some types of shooting, more specifically producing jpg files in the device, as well as. MOV, which requires treatment with loss in camera, where the style of photo (in terms of Canon) allows to define what color ranges to focus on and other minutiae, all designed to describe what is important to remember in the limited space of a DSLR. I guess this allows video capture in camera more effectively use space of 8 bits for color definitions. I guess lut helps solve some of this use when ingestion.

    I have learned quite a bit of this with quick searches some time ago, but have a very general understanding, enough to produce correct results without even using a LUT in the post, but it would be nice to know more, or at least be pointed in some good directions.

    Oh, after looking on the net and learning a few styles of popular image and LUTs etc, I read a very interesting post useful somewhere I think that in this forum... someone with extensive experience in this area pointed to someone who shot so-called video diary on a DSLR is not true newspaper and that the amateur filmmakers who consider it are often something cinema that is not all he did to be... who, for example, reduce the saturation at the time of the shooting on a DSLR can produce apparently-looking pictures on the newspaper, but it certainly loses 'chroma', which cannot be recovered despite what the hype on such people. I found it instructive but is also puzzled by how many are apparently very happy shooting more neutral DSLR footage benefits w / apparent in post... the final essential I found myself with: it really depends on all the situation where if we know the style for the scene, and the post READ or whatnot and it works, great... but what a style shooting time (w/post LUT) is no guarantee not any kind of cinematic look (or any another look) for all scenes/situations and some or many of the cases, can guarantee that you will be without color because you have loaded the camera so that he too gives up while thinking about a correction station can recovery that has lost... and he can't.

    So it's kind of image w/REFLEX designs, taken from neutral view (fake log), where I'm posting corrections including LUTs... curious to hear the thoughts or create discussion.

    SHOOTING

    First thing to know about shooting with most all current & past DSLR, is that you are working with 8-bit codecs. Essentially, 4:2:0 and you can look for a more detailed explanation elsewhere. There are a few that can make 10 bits (4:2:2) and of course, high platforms range pro sometimes shoot 16 bits (4:4:4). GH4 Panny for example has a 10-bit mode. IF you have an external recorder that can handle the work, it can turn off the 10-bit files. But it will not save them on the internal drive.

    Well... I worked with a little media GH4 Panny, photographed myself... and it's a bit "thicker" than the 8 bits of the camera (as much as the maneuverability), but... not as much as I expected. There are differences between the actual quality of the files from different cameras that do not appear to be explained by any details of the specifications. (And I do not work with the GH4.) I wanted more than 10 bits of the GH4, actually. I'm hoping to get the eventual GH5.

    Example... of the images fixed cameras. My D200 was a 'generation' earlier that my D3... and that D3 is only a 12.2 megapixels, compared to the 10.2 of the D200. Do just a bit of 'post processing' by changing the contrast, saturation/color changes and the bad 'broken' file of the D200. Artifacts, banding, macro - blocking it's RAW files. Go above ISO 1600? Oh my... No.

    The D3? Same 'depth' of files, just a little more pixels, right? VERY different files... mangle these things in all directions, practically bend them backwards... no signs of damage. BEAUTIFUL images. It is not just the bit depth or even just the codec. Those who were far better image... and perfectly manipulated elements in the processor of the camera, preparing the record of the image. ISO 6400? No problem. Higher? Well... maybe need a little shade in position and a bit of noise reduction. But still... usable for a picky fool like me.

    The D600 is a generation later than the D3 and a LOT more pixels. Greatly improved, it should be even better, right? Well... we still use the D3 when passing over 3200 ISO and much... Although the D600 has many more pixels, to print a 30 x 40 inches? I prefer the D3, the D600 is quite credible to 30 x 40 and a little more.

    Is the same in video, especially in DSLRs. Not all equal camera specifications... are equal in the real world work. And your comment about to realize that some people, trying to mimic the shooting journal styles of spendy cameras 'pro', go so flat that they cannot recover properly... is dead on. You must study the camera (s) that you are handling, test the. Test the media. Break it. Until you know all the ways to break, you can't push it as far as you can without breaking. You can't make the most of it.

    Then... shooting DSLR in order to get as much as you can in this media probably 8-bit, you must...

    Choose to start with a fairly neutral 'profile'. You don't want to do anything 'jumped '.

    Reduce the contrast until you keep the MOST dynamic that the camera can record. It varies between cameras. That's why you reduce contrast... just to draw a greater number of pixels as this camera can provide. Do not pull the contrast more far. You don't win anything it. It is NOT a spendy video-built platform with 12-bit capacity.

    Sharpness... most of the cameras were execrable sharpening "routines". Some cameras can operate very well left a few ticks from the bottom of their sharpness setting, some need to be so low that it goes all the way down. TEST. Any editing software has better sharpening than this camera.

    Saturation... a lot of DSLR overcook red, especially in midrange/highlights. Some can do with green or blue, but it is almost always red. Decline by saturation, so you don't get too saturated is a good thing. That's the only reason to back your saturation. Depending on the camera, you will be typically halfway between the middle position "0" and the lowest setting before you get "there". Safe. And that of all you want, is the TV broadcast good saturation in the reds. You can set all the rest if necessary.

    Hue... When you do a good white balance in a controlled lighting situation, with all the lights in the same type of quality 'bulb', and he still had to pull secondary on a particular shade or quadrant all the time, you might be able to adjust the hue of your camera and get a 'normal' a little better out of it.

    Some devices have other controls... "pedestal" and others. In most of the DSLR, those who are of limited utility. I did not talk about any camera in the DSLR group who had really wonderful abilities unlocked to use these controls. In the test, you could get help in some circumstances.

    Then... the final result, is you shoot as neutral as possible, using the controls of the camera to get a broad dynamic range on possible chip, protect your media oversaturation in the reds in particular and... one more thing.

    HIGHLIGHT OF THE EXHIBITION AND THE IN-CAMERA WHITE BALANCE.

    Figure out what 'works' for you for the white balance and use wisely. I tend to use the most recent ExpoDiscs for general things, and of course, it should be used to the position that you are shooting at (where your subject will be)... underlined the primary light source. Nail the exposure setting in the histogram on the camera while the ExpoDisc is on the lens (spike exhibition in this dead histo), THEN do with the ExpoDisc white balance. At other times, I do a simple adjustment of kelvin. It's one or the other. Some use things of auditor of passport, some do other things. Do SOMETHING that gives you consistent and predictable results.

    You don't have the number of colors to do much 'corrective' color-balancing in post. And considering that you also have to allow a little 'margin' to creative coloring, you need to pretty much nails "neutral"-cam.

    I STRONGLY recommend getting an external monitor to your camera that shows the false colors and set your exposure according to this monitor. Use of the indicator for whites, especially set your exposure protecting the salient facts necessary. Know where your black and set the lights for them if necessary... but drop where they are going. The ISO and exposure for whites.

    In available darkness shooting, worry less do everything Mount ISO underexpose. Exposure necessary darks is BAD... When you 'lift' them you can get the hang of macros.  A small reduction of extra noise at an ISO setting higher is much better to handle in position to try to eliminate the blocking of macros.

    JOURNAL of shooting... Some cameras now do have a sort of "journal", as saying that the Panny GH4 East and several others. In the GH4, it was more of a public relations thing, is my estimate. The log parameter does not well outdoors in bright situations... MANY problems of banding... but it helps me to some in the studio lighting. This is a very nice addition to studio shooting, but when even... correctly set footage 'normal' from the studio of GH4 works pretty well. A GH5... maybe this will be a huge advantage. Maybe not.

    Some other devices, in the Canon and Sony especially, get some additional benefits of their journal parameters. However, to open an exhibition and other parameters of the camera are rather crucial and difficult to "verify" during the filming, he must test and know your cold gear. They are not a panacea.

    Follow the above, and you will get more constantly out of the camera that you can make the most of post. And Yes, a few very good colorists know I tell stories wonderful to get Arri media and such... which is total crap that the camera or the DP operator did not really know what they were doing. Or he just blew. And now, of course, they want the colorist to fix what is about... truncated of mush. Mutilated mush of a back is not much better than porridge mutilated to a Canon MkIV. But beautifully and technically perfect media of any camera... worth to work with.

    Neil

  • USB output and Audio fail

    Several days apart my audio output has failed and then doesn't have a single USB port. It's a question of remedy, or am I headed for a new logic board? I have an IMac 21 "end ' 09 running 10.11.5

    A bad USB device or a USB cable can simply triggered the USB port overload protection.

    First try to reset the SMC, according to > reset the management system (SCM) controller on your Mac.

    If this does not help, try again but this time unplug everything and wait a few minutes in step #3. Then test each USB port one at a time with a good working USB device.

  • Satellite A30-414: power surge on hub port error

    Hi all

    I have a Satellite A30-414 under XP Pro SP2. I had 2 USB ports: I plugged a siemens santis ADSL modem one and a sitecom USB hub 4 in the other. For months things have worked very well, but in the last few weeks I've been more frequently make this mistake of "power surge on hub port", which sometimes turns into a "a bad usb device worked" or "unknown usb device"...

    At first, I thought it was the modem. Then I thought it was the hub. Then I saw that I was getting the same error when everything I had plugged in was this basic usb mouse. At that time I KNEW: this is yet another annoying bugs kindly provided by XP SP2.

    All microsoft support had to suggest is to "use an AC adapter to power the USB device"... (Gee, why didn't think of this?) Too bad that my sitecom hub is designed to draw power from the USB port only).

    Of course, one will mark the task bar so that the error is always hidden, but that does not eliminate the problem itself now, it?

    Bottom line is... I'm tired of plugging and unplugging USB devices over and over again trying to make them work. Can someone pls drop some wisdom? I heard that people from the other producer for laptop has had a patch for this error...

    Thanks in advance!

    [Edited by: admin December 15 05 21:01]

    Hello

    If you want to avoid this error message you can do on this way:

    -Click START
    -Click on control PANEL
    -Double-click on the SYSTEM icon
    -Click on the HARDWARE tab
    -Click the button MANAGER of DEVICES
    -Click on the + sign next to USB Bus controllers to expand the selection.
    -Right click and select PROPERTIES on the Intel® USB UNIVERSAL HOST CONTROLLER (not the USB root hub)
    -Click on the ADVANCED tab
    -Check the box that says: don't tell me about USB errors

    Of course, the USB device has exceeded the limits of its hub port power. USB devices may draw a maximum of 500 milliamps (mA) per connection. With the release of SP2, if a device tries to use more than that, a USB port balloon message appears to indicate this on the current condition. During the docking of the Tablet, a very brief on the current condition is sometimes detected by the operating system, and the warning message is displayed. As much as I know this message has no effect on the functionality of the USB port.

    Good bye

  • MacBook Pro slow and stop, memory or HARD drive or motherboard?

    These last few months my Macbook Pro medio 2012 begins to slow down. I was thinking of a resettlement but has not had the time yet.

    Last month, he really slow started to freeze and stops instantly. It reboots and then I get a gray screen saying with the icon (a card with a questionmark in there) that it cannot find the boot disk drive. I close it again with the button and restart, then it starts normally. This would have me believe it has something to do with my HARD drive or the motherboard, but then again I'm not a tech guy so I guess just really. Then I got the idea to do a test of material, with this error as a result: 4MEM/62/40000000: 0x81d97590

    After searching the Web, it would mean that my memory would be bad/broken. I read in another post to download an app called 'Remember' which tests your RAM. I tried yesterday and it worked fine, nothing was wrong. But today I did once again when my Macbook was slow functioning again and went to do some other stuff. When I came back my Macbook has a black screen, a Word to insert a boot disk. I just stopped and restarted again and started normally. It is a little slow to clear grey screen with the apple logo.

    So my question is, does anyone know where the shoe pinches, RAM, HARD drive or the motherboard? Will also contribute to a reinstall? Can I check if my RAM is always placed properly or is maybe dirty? I use an application called memory monitor for clean working memory from time to time. I'm updating to El captain, wanted to do it instantly when I want to do a clean install on my mac, but I think I'll wait with that I know where the problem lies.

    Really hope someone can help me!

    Kind regards

    Mike

    This was the report on closing down:

    accident report

    Anonymous UUID: 2DD0FAD1-4D38-B739-F019-9F395B5DB6AD

    Sam Nov 28 17:54:55 2015

    Panic report *.

    panic (cpu 0 0xffffff80037c127e appellant): "launchd died\nState to the last Exception:\n\n"@/SourceCache/xnu/xnu-2782.50.1/bsd/kern/kern_exit.c:363.

    News of the UUID:

    uuid = 0x7fff61d7e000

    uuid = 0x108fa1000

    uuid = 0x108ff1000<4396b358-725e-3ec0-bcbb-e4bf75fe1fb0>

    RAX: 0 X 0000000002000001, RBX: 0000000000000006 RCX 0 X: 0X000000010A2800E8 RDX: 0 X 0000000000000000

    RER: 0X000000010A2800E8, RBP: 0X000000010A280190, IHR: 0X000000010A27FF40, RDI: 0 X 0000000000000001

    R8: 0 X 0000000000000000, R9: 0X0000000108FE09F0, R10: 0X00007FFF91399B02 R11: 0 X 0000000000000206

    A12: 0 X 0000000000000000 R13: 0X00007FFF9688D7E0, R14: 0X000000010A2805D0 R15: 0X000000010A280790

    RFL: 0 X 0000000000000206, RIP: 0X00007FFF9139795A, CS: 0 X 0000000000000007, SS: 0 X 0000000000000023

    Wire 0xffffff8021e8a970

    0x00007fff9768fdab

    0x00007fff9768fec8

    0x00007fff976893b4

    0x00007fff9c109a6c

    0x0000000108fcf907

    0x00007fff96a7de73

    0x00007fff96a80dc7

    0x00007fff96a80a1c

    0x00007fff942c5a9d

    0x00007fff942c33dd

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Wire 0xffffff80220c1798

    0x0000000108fb8c91

    0x00007fff96a7de73

    0x00007fff96a815cd

    0x00007fff96a81030

    0x00007fff96a80bef

    0x00007fff96a80a1c

    0x00007fff942c5a9d

    0x00007fff942c33dd

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Wire 0xffffff8021e8a000

    0x00007fff96a8226e

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Wire 0xffffff8021fb15c0

    0x00007fff96a81925

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Wire 0xffffff803a4bd000

    0x00007fff96a8a4e6

    0x00007fff96a8293b

    0x00007fff96a813bc

    0x00007fff96a81030

    0x00007fff96a80bef

    0x00007fff96a821a3

    0x00007fff942c605a

    0x00007fff942c5fd7

    0x00007fff942c33ed

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Wire 0xffffff8037edb2e0

    0x00007fff8fbeaf1a

    0 x 0000000000000001

    0x00007fff61d8a475

    0x00007fff907537b5

    0x00007fff9765e648

    0x00007fff9688d7e0

    0x00007fff9688fddf

    0x00007fff96a7de73

    0x00007fff96a7e8ca

    0x00007fff9688e0a7

    0x0000000108fcc393

    0x00007fff96a7de73

    0x00007fff96a815cd

    0x00007fff96a81030

    0x00007fff96a813bc

    0x00007fff96a81030

    0x00007fff96a80bef

    0x00007fff96a80a1c

    0x00007fff942c5a9d

    0x00007fff942c33dd

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Wire 0xffffff8025fd2e28

    0x00007fff942c33dd

    0 x 0000000000000000

    Mac OS version: 14F1021

    Kernel version: kernel in Version 14.5.0 Darwin: kills Sep 1 21:23:09 PDT 2015; root:XNU-2782.50.1~1/RELEASE_X86_64

    Kernel UUID: 06D286E3-A8A1-3BE7-A7EB-EAC6E0C69758

    Name of system model: MacBookPro9, 1 (Mac-4B7AC7E43945597E)

    an application called 'Remember' which tests your RAM. I tried yesterday and it worked fine, nothing was wrong.

    This is not the right way to think about memory problems. When the test of the RAM ALL said that there is a problem, it's the truth. RAM problems are very difficult to isolate, and a diagnostic runs, but can't find the problem, if NOT "nothing was wrong" which is "he cannot find the problem immediately."

    This isn't a mystery. DIMM RAM, not another thing is more likely to fail. Then you could try Rember running all night, you could try to remove one of your DIMMs and see if chess stops, you can try to get a new DIMM and see if they work better.

  • GPIB Garland address help

    I'm working on the implementation of new equipment, a second facility that we have.  In both configurations, we use a single GPIB-ENET/100 and a GPIB-232CV-A with LabVIEW.  On the original configuration, which works very well, here's the order of connection:

    Computer--> GPIB-ENET/100, connected via an ethernet cable

    Power supply high voltage--> Lock-In Amplifier--> GPIB-ENET / 100--> GPIB-232CV-A, Garland with GPIB cables

    The GPIB-232CV-A has a dip switch address 1 and also runs a cable DB-9 to a series of commands of stepper motors.  In my global addresses VI, these stepper motor controls receive a global address of 1, what I understand.  What I don't understand, is why the high voltage has an address of 3 and the Lock-In has an address of 4, which my other VI scream in order to communicate with them.  That this has something to do with the order of Garland?  Yet once, there is only a single use GPIB-232CV-A, and it has an address of 1.  Thank you.

    Too bad, my devices have internal GPIB address

Maybe you are looking for

  • Store the TV Preview in a simple list files

    Hi all I have problem with items listed - in other words, she is shown in thumbnails, so I have dozens of pages of the list to find the right file!I can he seen as a simple list? As I see it, everyone has his question, none got his answer. :-/

  • Forecaster data transfer tool work with SL?

    I used the tool for transfer of data to Dynamics GP, but never with SL.  Can you please confirm if it works as well with SL? Thank you!

  • Video settings Ram SVE14AE13L

    I'm changing my settings of video ram from 2 GB to 3 GB for the game someone can guide me through that I looked and can't seem to find out how.I also tried f1 f2 f3 delete to enter bios need help Thank you

  • Re: Transfer of the product keys...

    I have several cases of computer in my possession that have Windows XP product codes attached to them. I was reading online and I read that it is illegal for to use me these codes to another computer, and that they can only be used with the computer

  • How resolve the error that reads "wmvcore2.dll's not found" after the installation of Cool Edit Pro 2.0?

    Hello I recently tried to install Cool Edit Pro 2.0 on my Dell laptop. After that it's over, I went to open the application, but the error which read "wmvcore2.dll is not found" message popped up. He suggested I have reinstall the application, so I d