Battery and type of machine T420
I want to buy a new battery 9 cells for my lenovo t420 and I wanted to know the machine type important when buying the battery is? For example, my machine type is 4178-A2G. The battery is supported by lenovo t420?
Thanks in advance for the help!
type of machine as xxxx-xxx is not important in the management of battery. T420 uses all of the same type of battery.
Tags: ThinkPad Notebooks
I hope someone from the team of Lenovo can help me identify my S10-3 with type numbers and correct machine model. There are several channels based on the machine, packaging and construction sheet, but nothing which seems to map the 3-digit model requested information on the Lenovo BIOS & drivers support sites.
On the machine:
Name of the template 0647
On the build sheet:
Machine Type model: IdeaPadS10-3N450F01G2507SW3b - to (as description logic) Machine Type Model No.: 59031892
Thank you very much
Thanks to Dalubhasa. I visited the Lenovo for the Australia warranty upgrade portal and it generated the model number for my machine. Note If you use the warrany control site, you get all the details.
For those who are interested (and all those who are not interested) my machine is a 0647 52M.
Does anyone know how to set the new Type of Machine and the serial number after a motherboard for a replacement model H535?
The motherboard has recently failed on my model H535 (7 months after the expiration of the warranty - thanks, Lenovo). No local garage would agree to replace due to its nature of owners (thanks, Lenovo). I spent about four hours on the phone being bounced into back-and-forth between the many support staff (usually combined) Lenovo in sales, technical support, support of parts of IBM and various other departments (thanks, Lenovo), which one has suggested that I might have to try to find a motherboard on Ebay or Amazon for my computer in less-than-2-year-old. However, I finally get to someone at Lenovo, which has been able to sell a motherboard - for 2/3 of the cost of the original computer.
Now, I installed the motherboard, and it works. However, during each boot, I get a POST with two beeps error which reads as follows:
00CE error: Machine Type and serial number is INVALID
Start of manufacturing sequence is taken if no selection is made
I presume that the BIOS on the new motherboard must be programmed with the right Type of Machine and the serial number of my computer. I've read various things on the Internet about what to do, as updating the BIOS (I can not even find a BIOS under "downloads" of support for the H535 - thanks, Lenovo model), using WinPhlash (I apparently need one kind of BIOS ROM file to make it work, I don't have), getting a Lenovo hardware maintenance disk for my model (which apparently isn't available for other special people only me - thanks Lenovo), etc.
The waiting time for Lenovo support are ridiculously long, and almost every customer support person is ridiculously uninformed on the difference between one of their computer models, and even less their motherboards (thanks, Lenovo). I am amazed and extremely frustrated. It shouldn't be rocket science.
On a side note, I initially bought the computer from Staples with a credit card with extended warranty protection, which means I can get a refund for repair. Although the motherboard came with a packing list, no Bill has been provided by Lenovo, and I couldn't make them send one - or maybe even with success to explain what a Bill is (thanks, Lenovo).
Well, Lenovo support was useless, and any alleged authorized suppliers were in fact still suppliers or could help with my problem. But I was finally able to fix it myself. Once I found the right piece of software, it has been fixed in less than a minute.
My BIOS is by American Megatrends, and I discovered that they have a set of utilities that includes a called AMIDEDOS. It is intended for manufacturers to be able to change the strings of text stored in the BIOS for things like the manufacturer, product name, Version, number series, UUID, SKU number, family, etc., that is what I had to do. It is not intended for use by consumers, but it's there.
When I ran the "DMIEdit.exe" program AMIDEDOS (clicked and ran as administrator from 10 Windows) and click on "System information" from the list, I saw "Product Name | STRING | Invalid' and ' serial number | STRING | NOT VALID ". The other fields appeared to have valid entries. I double-clicked on the fields valid and changed their "H535 model" and the serial number of my computer, respectively and then clicked on "Update all" at the top.
Much to my surprise, he reported that he had successfully registered the new information. And, perhaps even more surprising is the fact that, when I rebooted, the double beep and the warning about the type of computer not valid and serial number have disappeared. In addition, the BIOS showed I had entered the new values, and the 'Manufacturing Boot Sequence' option (I understand can be much slower than a normal boot) had disappeared.
Again, I'm a little surprised simple it was actually solve the problem once I got the correct software, or Lenovo part nor American Megatrends apparently offers to the owners, and it took hours and hours of research and research to understand. Use this information at your own risk, however, as playing with BIOS apparently can lead to problems not easily solved. That said, the modification of these text strings seems relatively safe.
I will mention that I also ended up changing the method of "LEGACY" to "UEFI" boot in the BIOS after noticing that the selection.
I bought a refurbished T420s. My machine type is 4171XF2 which is written on the back of the laptop.
It says on the box of the renovated 4171XF2 of 417153U package.
In the BIOS, the machine type is 417153U.
I typed in the s/n and 4171 on the looks of guarantee to the top of page and got 4171XF2 is my type of machine.
I'm worried about whether this is a genuine product.
Is it normal to have this difference type of machine?
You do not need to worry, it's normal that the refurbished computers. Each time is original machine number has changed to refurbished. But in the bios or system update, you might see the original.
However, I installed Linux.I trying from last month.
I installed and tired some type linux: Mandriva 10.1 OE, Mandriva LE 2005, kurumin and Knoppix 3.8, kurumin 3.0 4, kanotix (last rel.), suse 9.1, kubuntu 4.0...
I have installed a large number of linux applications: kacpi, toshutils, fnfx, tools, portable mode, some patches to the kernel acpi acpi...
I met some of the nuclei: 2.6.8 - 11mdk, 2.6.9,2.6.11, 2.6.12...
However, I can't battery and adapter sector-info-States on linux.
What can I do?
I'm sorry I don't have an answer for you, but a suggestion:
go to this page:
and request a test for this model, perhaps they can give you some comments.
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has had similar problems as me:
My laptop is only two years, but last year his work only intermittently. I get messages saying that the driver is not installed, until one day he will decide that the driver is installed after all and works very well. Until the next time it stops working. There seems no rhyme or reason for it. I gave up trying to reinstall the driver, because I know that (possibly) the sound will come back without intervention from myself.
My second problem may be connected - I have problems every now and then close the laptop. I try to put in mode 'sleep', but is not complete the process, and the blue light comes on. When I then open the cover, very often, the screen stays black and I have to turn off the machine and turn it on again the force again.
Then recently, I noticed a sharp drop in the battery life (less than an hour). He also annoyingly started losing all power and cut until the indicator showed all the usual warnings of low power.
Anyone know if these problems can be linked, and whether they can be fixed? A new battery will fix it? To be honest, he arrived at a point where I think to buy another laptop do since they are really starting to get frustrating!
Thank you very much
I also own a U300 I bought about 2 years ago now, I had no problem with the sound but didn't have any other problems with my 1-2 months battery life after life - 20-30 min. I just baught a new battery and it is promising, I just did the first load and it lasted long, however the windows said it had 0% remaining, but I pulled out another 30-45 minutes the dough until it went flat. If you look in your event log do you get the message
": The embedded controller (EC) has failed in the specified time-out." This may indicate that there is an error in the EC hardware or firmware or BIOS is accessing the EC incorrectly. You should check with the manufacturer of your computer for an updated BIOS. In some cases, this error may cause the computer to function properly. »
It is listed under ACPI in the event log.
see you soon
Satellite S3000 - X 4 with problems screen empty.
The machine works with an external monitor connected. BIOS updated to 1.60, latest video drivers installed on Intel site. Installed power of Tosh management. Screen is blank on the battery and the system. No obvious response to listen autour mainboard or FL Inverter - or monitor itself.
Have you tried to reduce video settings in the power management of Tosh as suggested by someone else. Is FL Inverter probably at fault - if yes, where is the best / cheapest place to get a replacement to the United Kingdom?
As you know all the parts, you can order by the service partner. If you know what are the parts that you need you can also Google around a bit and I'm sure you can find enough hardware stores online where you can compare prices and order cheaper.
Sorry, I'm not from the United Kingdom and may not give you a good info. Also, do you want to exchange it only?
I have a satellite P10 who had some problems of strange power for about a year now.
My laptop switch to the power of the battery even when it is plugged. I will then either use the computer until the battery runs out and turned it off or Hibernate in until the battery may charge.
I thought that I had fixed by downloading and installing a new Bios from the toshiba site, which seemed to work for a while, but now it the problem seems to have returned.
I also bought a new battery and the bar of power, thinking that was the problem... but it does not solve the problem.
Someone else out there with similar problems, or a method to solve this?
any thoughts would be great.
I had similar problems with my machine, so you can check some things:
-When the CA is connected, then move him soft in all directions, there are maybe a few micro cracks on the AC connector.
-try to boot your machine without the battery, your motherboard charging system is may be defective
-Discover an another AC adapter, maybe the CA is defective
If you encounter some strange phenomena as power cuts or no charge while you perform this action above, then you have definitely a hardware problem and you will need to contact your local dealer or the service partner for the other instance.
So I had to do, and it's a faulty motherboard.
Hope I could give you some ideas.
I saw a similar post here and I was wondering if anyone could tell me if they have had this problem sorted? My Equium L10-273 kept switching between battery and power all others second, which made it impossible to type, it's got worse and worse. I thought it was a problem with the power supply, but when I removed the battery from the laptop is ok running of the adapter.
He kept also make a noise of hissing/crackling growing fan region, which stopped when I removed the AC adapter. The adapter was unusually hot, and the fan area became too hot to the touch. This stopped now, I removed the battery, so I want to know is what someone has solved this problem by replacing the battery or it should be returned?
This laptop is less than 2 years old, but apart from his one year warranty.
According to the description of your problem, I think there is a problem of electronic power supply. Sorry but there is not a universal solution, and I recommend you contact the service authorized in your country. Explain the situation and see what they say.
Keeping a clean and safe system is equivalent to good performance. How do you do that? There are several things you should do to ensure the best possibility to keep a clean, safe and very efficient machine:
(1) install anti-malware software
- There are a few very good available 'Free' programs that are fully automated and will help keep your system protected against malicious software. Some of them are listed here... .click on the link "Free Security Software links Index", then click on the link "Anti-virus".
(2) safe online practice
- "" Safe surfing"you really thinking very little. Using common sense can help here. Avoid unscrupulous websites. The "Web Of Trust" help you identify many of those if you CAN avoid the.
- Maintain your system by performing a disk cleanup and defragmentation on a regular basis.
Maintenance requires some planning. Your system accumulates debris on the web. "Debris", in the sense that many of these files are not necessary keep.
Get rid of this debris is a simple process. Microsoft Windows users will find the free utilities provided by Microsoft, in all "platforms", are very useful in helping users keep their systems. Those who are, disk cleanup and Disk Defragmenter. "You can find these tools by going to.
All Programs--> Accessories--> System Tools
.. the are friendly and easy to use. However, I would like to clear up some confusion regarding the utility "Defragmenter". Many users will neglect a defragmentation of the system according to the results of analysis. I would like to address the:
"You don't need to defragment this volume."
.. .message referring to analysis of defragmentation.
You see, when Microsoft wrote that the utility for the Windows platform, there are two targets to consider. Those who are home and business users. Two very large markets, with very different "needs". Effort and the goal was to reach a middle ground by estimating the thresholds which would continue to work well for both customer bases without causing performance issues significant for no more, if one or the other duty live of these thresholds.
If I explained that well, then you might understand that the 'threshold' Microsoft chose for defragmentation utility will report either customer when fragmentation reached... Let's say it's about 20% (I don't really know WHAT it is, but I don't know it's wide enough) and anything under that will be reported as:
"You don't need to defragment this volume."
All this means, really, is that you can delay a defragmentation when an analysis of the analysis returns such a message... but that certainly does not mean that you shouldn't defrag.
As a general rule, I perform a full system defrag when my file fragmentation is over 3%. For me, it's about twice a week. For you, let's say they occur once a month. I don't know, only you, but you have to keep an eye on her (make ita habit) and see how long it takes to know your fragmentation at this level. It can vary greatly, because it depends on the number of files you create or delete and what type of applications that you run in a "normal" user session
E-mail, for example, is an application (if native or not) that causes the creation and deletion of files on the hard drive. If you use an online email client, think to "from the browser's cache" with regard to the number of emails downloaded and deleted. These are all files that are fragmented, they are on the hard disk, or make up the garbage in the browser cache, makes no difference... it's all the disk space again regardless of how you think of it.
Remember, even if you have your browser empty the temporary files when you close the value, the size of this file "dump" can waver, in order to clear the cache at the closing, the browser did perform better than the next browser session but does nothing to appease the disk fragmentation.
You see, if you do this, the system works well on each of its sessions.
In summary, install anti-virus software, surf safe practice and maintain your computer. Don't forget to clean the disc first, then perform the defragmentation otherwise you will sort the waste so that the free space fragmented and files.
Keep in mind these principles and your system will perform well give you years of enjoyable computing.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.
Original title: DVD problems
I have an acer with SP3 and Windows XP machine. It does not recognize a DVD - RW in my TSST Corp. CD/DVGW TS - L632D what is the solution. I tried the fix and I also used the Center 'Fix it '.
1 how long have you been faced with this problem?
2. don't you make changes on the computer before this problem?
3 are. what patch you referring?
4. this happens to you with some specific discs?
Reinstall the drivers for DVD player and check.
1. click on start > run
2 type devmgmt.msc and press ENTER. If you are prompted for an administrator password or a confirmation, type the password, or click on allow.
3. in Device Manager, expand CD-ROM/DVD-ROM drives, right click on the device CD and DVD and then click on uninstall.
4. When you are prompted to confirm that you want to remove the device, click OK.
5 restart the computer.
6. when the computer restarts, the drivers will be installed automatically.
The battery of my computer does not load. I changed the battery and I changed the AC adapter, and I always get this message: "0% available (plugged in, not supported)" I don't know what the problem is.
My computer the battery does not charge. I bought a new battery and I changed the AC adapter but the battery still won't charge. This is the message I get:
0% available (plugged in, not charging) don't know why.
1. What is the number of brand and model of your computer?
Let us try the steps mentioned below to see if the problem is resolved.
a. Click Start; type devmgmt.msc in the start search box and press ENTER.
b. expand the batteries category.
c. under the batteries category, right-click in the list of Microsoft ACPI compatible with battery control method and choose uninstall.
WARNING: Do not remove the Microsoft AC adapter driver or any other compatible ACPI driver.
d. on the Device Manager, click Action and then click Scan for hardware changes.
Windows will scan your computer for hardware which has not installed the drivers and will install the necessary drivers to manage the battery power. The notebook should now indicate that the battery is charging.
If this does not work, try power cycling of your laptop by following the steps below.
a. remove the battery from your laptop, and then press the power button to all 15 sec.
b. now connect to the battery and check if it works.
I suggest also, please contact your computer manufacturer to see if they have any suggestions about it.
OK just - my new newegg.com ultrabay battery:
is having intermittent problems. I will list out them:
- Connect the questions of recognition.
- Wake up sleep (as HERE)
- Charge of issues - it is stuck at 18% now and does not load!
To explain more. When I got the battery that I plugged it in and the system immediately recognized and began to charge. I have let it charge all the way up. I used it for say 30 minutes on battery which worked as expected. The battery of the UB exhausted up to 70% or something and put it to sleep. When I woke up the machine (the cover) the battery ejected, and whenever I have it plug back, said he is ready to be removed. To resolve this problem, I have to restart or sleep again then he semi works.
Now it to something else - it shows as connected but still drains the MAIN battery and not the UB even if she is charged. When I remove the main battery and boot the system with just the ultrabay battery starts to beep at me (like beep beep beep beep as no stop). It is always powered of course and shows always have a battery.
Now even when I plug (adapter 65W and 90W sector) it shows "Connected at no charge" and it's there. Power Manager indicates that the battery is in good conditon, always 0 cycles. First used 7-11 - Manufacturered 12/10.
Last issue being the lock, I guess do it several times now, it's super hard to remove the battery, it seems as if I'm doing it wrong, but the first time when I arrived to the farm, I did to remove the DVDRW in it easily, there even 1 fingers. Now, it's like I'm breaking my fingers to get it open. The first switch, is more difficult to move too so the time switch is crazy hard to slide!
So, anyone got any ideas? I have 3 years warranty so I can send it, but it is my only system so I'm going to be naked for awhile until she coming back to me (no guarantee on the spot on this system, I "improved" to a T410 which was spot on.).
PS - Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to give some details
FYI - apparently it was all the way down to the motherboard that needs to be replaced. Had to send in twice but the 2nd time that the Board of Directors has been replaced and now fresh stuff as it should. It also allows the hot plug and the switch is also easily removable.
Didn't want to be one of 'those' posts where the questions are asked but no solution posted later or "NVM - it is fixed.
I am using a Dell inspiron 1545 for about 3 years now and exactly after 2 years of my purchase, the battery has failed and it began to show me to replace the battery and always informed to contact me dell for a new battery.
I took this to a lot of trouble, so I simply ignored the message and kept using my battery with my wired adapter. After 4-5 months of such uses, my battery has completely failed and does not give me even even a minute of backup, when I remove the power outlet. Then I realized the importance of a new battery and then bought a new battery from Dell.
Its the same battery with the same features and also the same type family. After that I removed my faulty battery, I replaced my purchased new Dell battery and realized that my battery works fine. his load well, but at one point, it says "plugged in, but do not load" which is rare for a new battery, that is purchased new.
This is what it looks like now once I removed the plug adapter and when I depend on the backup battery. It provides a backup, but I see a Mark exclamatory yellow next to her. Which I think should not be present. He also says "Low battery" when there are already some 99% battery left!
I also followed a few steps online
(1) update the BIOS for the last 2) followed by a few other steps such as uninstall the ACI battery in Device Manager and etc...
I'd like to get this problem is solved. I use an adapter family PA-12, which is also replaced. So any help on resolving the issue would be appreciated.
Hey maxim. I have actually FIXED this month back, problem. and I want exactly help on it so that you can fix it yourself too...
the problem that is the creation of your battery to display an exclamatory mark is your power settings.
then follow these steps to get rid of this sign and a battery to work perfectly.
1) click the icon of your battery (left click), you should see an option called "Power Options more' at the bottom of the pop-up window.
Click on 'more power Options.
(2) now, you will be taken to your control panel where you can see all of your power plans and under each plan, you will see an option called "Change plan settings"
3) click on "Change plan settings" for your active power plan. Now you will be redirected to another window of Control Panel, where you can see two types of power options to get adjusted. in other words, when you battery is connected and when your battery is disconnected.
(4) do not touch these options, simply click on 'Change power avancΘs' at the bottom left of this window. THIS IS THE AREA WHERE WE HAVE TO FIX!
(5) after that you click "Change advanced power settings", you will see a POWER options window, go down and then you can see what is called "Stack" with a sign to the left. until it clicks.
(6) now, you just change the levels for the following values
--> Critical battery level (you can change it to 10%)
---> Low battery (you can change it at 20%)
Now once who did, YOU will BE No. LONGER SEE THE EXCLAMATIVE MARK on YOUR STACK!
So I hope it works!
Answer me when you've managed to fix.
Tried removing battery and turn on with power cable - no luck. The ONLY light anywhere, that's where the cable plugs. The unit is only 3 weeks old. Bought at OfficeMax.
If you are still in the period of time where you can return the machine and get it replaced, it's definitely what I would suggest - you shouldn't be troubleshooting a whole new machine and it sounds like a hardware problem.
DP - K
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