Blue 11-r050sa stream: Headphone Jack problem
I bought two HP laptops stream
HP Notebook flow blue 27 November 2015 11 r050sa S/N (deleted content) P/N POH72EA laptop #ABU HP flow 11-r0001na purple 4 January 2016 S/N (deleted content) P/N POH70EA #ABU
There is a design problem with the audio output jack that I have the same problem on two different machines.
I was given to understand your a previous post that the problem was known on at HP.
Does anyone know if this problem has been resolved yet
When taking is home to cut the speakers, that the level sound so hard to hear even if low down by using an external amplifier to power the headphones
The only round work that I found is to just insert the plug until it connects to audio while the speakers are always connected. It is not good if you want to cut the sound from the speakers
Thanks for the clarification. As you adjust the volume on your headphones do you accept that your problem has been solved?
I can only hear the left side of the helmet. When I push a little jack upward, on the right side, it works too. Headset is very good. Also tried a few other other headphones too. His work very well under Linux. I tried to update the driver in Device Manager.
How can I solve this problem?
Well actually, it's under warranty and it is the fault of the manufacturer. There are also some similar problems on this model of summer 2015.
I just realized that I can't plug in headphone on my bike E 2nd Gen when I have a Motorola handle shell on the phone. The shell of the Grip is thicker the provided factory ring outdoor original. And the hole in the plastic is not open enough to allow the jack plug all the way. This is a pretty serious design defect.
I just tried again, I'm stubborn like that, and now it works! I tried at least 4 different times before today... I don't know what has changed. I tried the same helmet.
My place 7840 arrived last week and I really like this thing. Today, I finally plugged headphones into the phone 1/8 "plug and immediately heard a rehearsal 'click' sound, strong enough and not affected by volume or muting. Quickly, I rebooted the Tablet, then tried again in Airplane Mode. The same problem. Checked my sound settings. Everything was normal (Bluetooth audio works fine). Tried another set of headphones - same problem.
Everyone fell on this? My helmet is defective?
Thanks in advance.
UPDATE! I found the problem. Problem solved.
I use the Dell Folio, which came in the form of a Pack, and he made sure the headphones were enough to play sounds and 'feel' as it has been connected - connection but it wasn't quite the case. Making felt a little loose, so I gave the helmet a good shot and he well engaged. No more rattling! I am back to enjoy my place of 8.
Hope this helps someone else.
HI, I own an iPad iPad 4 mini and an iPad2
There is a week iPad headphone plug 4 went in one channel and was sent for repair.
last night, taken to mini helmet iPad went extremely crunchy before a few hours later the iPad died completely.
Headphone Jack even night iPad 2 does not recognize a put jack in and goes to the headset mode.
I like to use iPads for Djaying but cant help thinking that the helmet in all iPads is lower
advise please because I can not continue to pay for repairs and lose the job because of this problem.
Thanks in advance
You can try to check the ports for any debris as well as the verification of the other end of your equipment. It is rare that the iPads fail together so by chance in order to check the other end of this cable.
Headphone 3.5 mm on my R100 hole seems to be defective (I tried it with another helmet and with them the sound is distorted unless I managed to get the plug in the right position).
I will provide Toshiba on this subject shortly, but I was just wondering if anyone could tell me if this component replacement is a simple procedure?
Thank you very much.
The headphone jack is a pretty basic device that can usually be bought quite cheaply from most electrical spare outlets. The real problem is to find a repairman that will repair to the component level. Nowadays, the trend is to replace a whole PCB rather than simply weld on a new component.
According your description of the problem as it sounds as if we spring metal tags is either loose or bent and therefore does not sufficiently wityh contact the helmet when it is inserted.
If your laptop is still under warranty, then it should be replaced at no charge.
If your warranty has expired, it may be useful to check for repairers of local PC that quote ' component-level) repair services.
So about 4-5 months ago, I bought a brand new HP Pavilion PC g6.
A few months later (2-3) I started to have problems with the sound. Whenever I plugged the headphones, the sound would not come to her. First of all, I thought it was the helmet that I was using. It turns out that it wasn't. Then I thought it was something with audio players or anything else. (Control Panel-> hardware and sound-> manage audio devices). It turns out that it wasn't.
The problem started as my helmet is sound but cut wide in some places. I have to play with the headphone jack and move it a bit to get the sound. At that time, portable headphone plug was already loose. Then, for about 5-10 minutes, something really strange happened. His was no more. I couldn't not all the sounds if it was for my headphones or speakers of my laptop.
After about 10 minutes, the sound is back after a reboot. However, the sound was weird and glitch. I mean, is that whenever I plug in the headphones, 55% of the sound would come through them, but the other 45% would come out of my laptop speakerks.
Yet once again, I thought it was the helmet, but no. Even with multiple changes of helmet and try them on different computers, the headphones were great. I started thinking that it was the helmet being loose which caused all these problems. I started to look for solutions. I came across a post of aid for the same issue: being loose headphone jack.
Most of them said that if the helmet was not directly related to the motherboard, that the issue would be fixed easly.
My question is:
(1) how will I know if the headset is connected to the motherboard directly?
(2) how can I fix the problem if;
(a) it is directly connected.
(b) if it is not connected to it directly.
(3) the headphone plug is loose have EVERYTHING link to my sound works does not correctly.
Thank you and more information will be provided on request.
Additional information: I know that HP laptop computers have a 1 year warranty, however, how do I check for mine?
1. with the hardware problems, it is best to contact support for your options before going inside the laptop.
2. If you notice that you are not covered by your phones warranty, if you provide me with your laptop model number, I'll see if there is a maintenance and service guide. (another workaround of the guarantee is to get a USB headset connected)
< How can I find my laptop model number >: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c00033108
3. Yes, he seems to have everything to do with the question.
Check your warranty:
http://h10025.www1.HP.com/ewfrf/wc/weInput?cc=us & LC = in
HP technical support: 800-474-6836. If you do not live in the United States / Canada region please click the link below to get help from your region number. http://www.HP.com/cgi-bin/hpsupport/index.pl
Im having a problem with my headphone jack, it does not work with everything and when I plug something in it, it does not work and always comes out the speakers. When I go into screen material add nothing happens with something lack or anything like that. Do I need a driver any?
You have reinstalled the Sound Driver?
Maybe the headphone jack is damaged.
I use this computer to my work as a dj. and I use one called audio8djdriver (http://www.native-instruments.com/index.php?id=audio8dj&ftu=25a739a1c5cd54c) external sound card and I used it with a program called traktor (http://www.native-instruments.com/index.php?id=traktor3_us) and use usb sound card.
Here I put in the links of the product if you n t know what it is...
And when I m at home I n t use this external sound card.
I just used the release of the phone forward as a line out put...
But suddenly sound only coming sound speaker that is built into the computer.
I tried to reinstall the audio drivers but no success
It seems that he doesn t know I have something out of the phone or microphone. And I even tried to upgrade the Bios.
It may have something to do with the upgrade of the Microsoft Vista?
Have you tried plugging a headset to the headset jack to see if it would work?
This external sound card is not only known to me and I ve no experience with this device, but using the helmet you could check if this problem is related to the headphone jack or another part.
On the other hand if you use Win XP then you can check the settings in device-> Realtek HD audio Manager manager.
There is a tab called Audio i/o.
Plug in headphones and see if they would be activated it.
My headphone works sometimes only. I'll get my wired headset and I can hear everything perfectly clear, but if I leave the laptop on overnight or leave for 30 minutes, I hear nothing more.
I checked to make sure that the headphone jack is the audio device by default and the earphone works perfectly fine, so I don't see what the problem.
The only way to solve the problem, as far as I understand, is to just restart the phone whenever the problem occurs, and it works. But I'd rather not have to restart every time this problem occurs. I also do not have to send the laptop.
Hello and thanks for the display on the HP support forums. There are only two things that can cause for your problem of making head phone. When the system goes and warms the chips that handle the audio channel enter a blocking state as soon as this happens her loose. As soon as you restart the voltage on the chips are erased and will work very well until things warm up again and the right signal is applied to this chip to block again.
You can try to backup all your data and perform a recovery of the system so that tha system goes back to its original configuration. It will be deleted including updates which could have caused this.
Even though this is listed as Windows 8 you can use for Windows 10.
Failure to resolve the issue, you will need to send in for repair. Use the following link to help you contact the appropriate HP support department.
Please let me know how things are going with this. Thanks again for posting and have a great day.
Why is there no sound in my headset any headphones? Even if my laptop told me that you have plugged just a new device in the headphone jack?
HelloYou are able to hear the sound from the speakers with no problems?Method 1:You can try the following steps:Close all programsRight click on the Volume icon in the system traySelect the playback device.Some phones head as default device.NOTE: If the head phones are not displayed, you will need to select the option to view the disabled devices and disconnected devices and select head phones from the list, and set its default value.Method 2:Check out the link and follow the steps.No sound in Windows
Original title: computer with no sound
My computer has no sound coming from the speakers, but the headphone jack works fine. Can someone help me with this?
We recommend you to check if the speaker is defined as default playback on your computer device. To do this, try the following steps:
a. right click on the sound/volume icon in the right corner of the task bar, then click on "adjust audio properties".
b. click on the Volume tab, click Advanced under Speaker settings, select the speaker and click ok.
c. click on the tab Audio, audio playback device, select default.
d. click apply and then click ok.
e. check if the problem persists.
For additional troubleshooting steps, see How to fix the sound problems in Windows XP
Visit our Microsoft answers feedback Forum and let us know what you think.
How to fix a headphone jack for listening to Sansa View problem
I bought a refurbished Sansa View 8 GB a while back for $60 at a hypermarket on the local computer and
It came with a political guarantee of 60 days and 30 days of return of the store. I liked the view better
only the rocket and the Clip, they had for similar prices because of the larger screen. At the time I'm not
know that Sandisk has been gradually the support of support for new players, or about the
others have had to problems.
On the second day, I had the player, I noticed that the headphones were not playing both
channels correctly, and if I shook the card he got much louder. I could the deal and he would play
good for awhile and then a channel would cut out randomly. After some research, I found that
others have had the same problem. I tried to return it, but somehow, I had lost the hardback cover
that describes the product and contains the chisel, and they could not return. They would have
I would like to swap with someone else and his sleeves to return the original unit, but they sold the
them and never got over. I think I was about $ 60 at that time here, so I went
back line for further research. I found a guy on this forum who had disassembled one, therefore, using
his instructions (with some modifications), I took mine hand, found the bad soldering and fixed
them. Here's how:
1. use a PIN or sharp knife to release the tiny connector black rubber that covers the screw
It must be removed to open the case; It is located to the right of the usb plug (ahead of)
Reader). Put the CAP and the screws that you remove so later in a small Tupperware
you do not lose them.
2. remove the screw, with a very small phillips head of a glasses or a good game repair kit
3. the bottom right corner should now be free; Remove the plastic cover of metal
Basic it and work slowly around the case counterclockwise, separating the nail of the thumb
If you're going to. You may need to use a tiny flat head to press the strips in transparent plastic
which become visible when you move along the line of separation. Take your time in order to not break
no label. Finally you get to the last tab in the lower left corner of the headphone jack.
This is where I had my only problem. Other blogs say to lift a lever to more
release this tab; I found that nothing seemed to free him and after several minutes of
soft eyes I broke something and it came loose. I think it was super-colle in place!
4. I didn't take away the little water that connects the encoder in the Council, because it is very
difficult to re - install these things, so just press the cover of how to get to the screen and
Live PC. There are 2 tiny black screws holding the display remove them and
equivalent it loose, leaving the attached ribbon cable again
5. now you can see the battery; out of its niche and disconnect the 3 tiny dumb son.
Nector and set it aside.
6. push the lid, so you can see the 3 tiny black screws holding circuit board printed; delete
them (the last is difficult to see, it's in the corner to the right of the headphone jack). Equivalent
the Platinum (the cursor for the power switch appears immediately switch). You should now be
looking at the empty metal casing and the display, printed circuit board and a plastic cover should
all be loose, but still connected by two ribbon cables. In the Tupperware you
should have 1 small black cap, 1 small silver screw, 5 small black screws, the slider switch.
and the battery.
7. I now inspect the plug welds helmet, and it was very obvious that 2 of
the legs were loose, probably because of not enough solder on them. I warmed up a little
flat-head screwdriver precision with a mini torch and has used and very fine electronics
welding to weld safely. After a thorough inspection of the other joints, I decided to leave
alone because they looked OK.
8. I now plugged the battery and booted up the test before I re-assembled. Both
channels played now, but I've always heard some static when you turn the CAP. I have fig-
measured, it was normal in my experience with small electronic devices, so I assembled the player
and more broadly, tried using headphones and a cable to connect to my receiver. He
now worked better, but still had some problems with making good contact. Now at least I can
He lay and he will play both channels indefinitely. I think that the problem is related to the
bad quality of decision-making.
9. I'm going to use it at work for a while with my powered speaker system and see how it
works. In the future I will try to clean the plug with the electronic device, and if that does not work
help can I go back in and try a few welding more or contacts inside making bending.
Worst case I might have to find a plug of new, high quality and weld them, hoping that I don't fry
whatever it is the heat.
So repair all taken only an hour (excluding research). I now have the confidence to
Difficulty everything that can go wrong in the future. I could swap the battery in 10 minutes and I
hear they are only about $20, so I could keep this thing going for years. I went from $ 60
brick for a machine that could last a long time. I wouldn't buy a Sansa View,.
But if you have already, I sincerely hope that this information will help to...
It's my last update to my problem of current headphones. The view is now fixed; Although having a few changes
appearance. It now sports an inch and one-quarter long cast taken helmet hanging out where the taking of origin to reside. You can laugh now, but not for too long, because this thing is perfect now! The repair is also robust enough to
Use it as a portable device (carry in your pocket or other) without worrying too ripped loose.
Here's how I did it:
After disassembly, I unsolder the old jack, carefully lift one corner at a time, until all 6 solder joints were loose. The
2 front and 2 rear tabs are on enveloping metal clips which can be removed separately. The old jack appears just out of it
slot in the jury. Earlier, I bought an extension of 3.5 mm headset (with volume control, $8.99, p/n 4202559) from Radio Shack, just because it was the smallest molded into the store. They had one for $2.49, what was right, but it was twice as big, so I spent the extra bucks because he must fit into the original hole. I now have it cut and stripped the wires, leaving only an inch of thread on the new socket. Then I soldered the 3 wires in their appropriate places, as
as a result; looking at the top of the Board, with the power switch facing you, you have 6 contacts arranged like this.
: the 2 middle are positive of left and right, top left (ground) common to both channels. The others are only to secure the plug to the Board of Directors. After brazing firmly the son I just put all together. the ribs on the molded strain relief perfectly nested within the original hole in the case, then it will not easily get out but retains some flexibility. The only problem I see is that the case is not quite keep hanging down in that corner more, but that could easily be corrected by a small drop of super glue. I'll do it later if it seems that the case is in danger of seperating
or if the wire pulls. I have also considered the fill area with hot melt glue, but who could do a more difficult future repair. I think that super glue will be the best and is still to open again if you only use a microdot of glue.
So after all this pain and suffering, I finally a player, maybe I can use for years to come. Total cost:
Given to nine Sansa View 8 GB... $60.00
RadioShack 3.5 mm ext. p/n 4202559... $9.00
Duracell Micro SD card 8GB... $20.00
Of course, I could buy a 16 brand new notice of GB for that price, with one year warranty! Well, NOW you can laugh,
as long as you want! But wait a minute, I would have just the same problem with a new, a week or a month
After the purchase? Then I could send it to Sandisk for RMA and after paying for delivery, and in the meantime maybe a month to get him back, I would have another new view to manhandle. So a year later, after the replacement of my 3rd or 4th, the guarantee was due to expire, and I do repair above on it to make it work, having had the use of the thing for only 6 months of the first year, what with shipment will remind it so many times! So maybe my path is correct. at least I use throughout the day now, and I'll NEVER have to send anywhere.
The moral of this story is: don't out cheap if you want a decent PMP - spend $150-200 for a Samsung P3 or a
Cowon S3; both have video and excellent sound and can read files DivX 800 x 600 without conversion, have tactile and menus screens customizable, not to mention the bigger screens. If you just need to play music, there are a myriad
players good markets that are simple and almost indestructible and if you lose or break will be a much less expensive than lesson
that I've learned.
I have a Pavilion Media Center a1440n. I recently updated my OS to Windows 7 and updated the appropriate drivers.
Everything works OK, except the front headphone jack. Realtek HD audio recognizes the shoultd headphones connect to the Jack of the façade, but he does not see that the earphones are connected and there is no sound in the headphones.
Is it an OS problem, or is there a setting I need to change?
Thanks for the reply. I tried what you suggested with no luck.
I also had other problems, so I bit the bullet and bought a new computer.
I bought a Dell XPS12 for a few months now, and recently I have started to use the helmet.
When I plugged the earpiece, the noise coming from the earpiece was choppy at first for a few seconds, and then it became 'tap... tap... tap... tap... ». I tried to just turn the volume up/down and 'tapping' got a little stronger. Now, whenever I plug headphones in, the sound coming out of the listener is always "tap... tap on... touch... tap...» "(and not audio normal, not even the default of Windows). No matter if I chose "Speaker" or "Helmet /headset" on the pop-up window. I tried the headphones on my phone and the earpiece is not working properly. Does anyone know why XPS12 helmet for this? This could be a hardware problem?
FYI, the Realtek Audio driver version is the most recent of the Dell Support (version 188.8.131.5204) website. My version of BIOS A05, model is XPS12 9 Q 23. I run the Diagnostic Test (F12 key, 4447 Build), but he has only a speaker test (and not a test of the helmet). The speaker works well, but the headphone jack is not. I tried several options in Dell's Audio software, but none has helped... :-(
Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.
Fred, if you re-install Realtek driver and the problem persists then it's a hardware problem. When you re-install the driver it resets the default configuration settings, if you eliminate the configuration as the cause of the problem and the cause is not the driver itself, otherwise it would be more prevalent.
Alternatively, you can remove the Realtek driver entirely (to aid in the control panel "Remove a program" or "programs and features"). By removing the Realtek driver you force Windows to install the native driver on restart. If the problem persists with the native driver who also confirms that it is a hardware problem.
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