Camera focusing distance
Is anything going to be done on the focus distance of the camera? Since the release and after a group of camera development, nothing was done or improved on the minimum focusing distance. The camera can not really take any macro shots because focus distance is too much, that you are not able to get a lot less than 2 ' macro shots have tend be closer with no less than 6-9inchs to lock focus. even the bike g 3rd gen and the original could do better with macro conditions X thanXthe play. With 21megapixels aboard, macros would win a lot because of the amount of detail it can possibly hold.
I must say, I have no problem with the macro shots on my Moto X play. I agree with nikolov47 - it is absolutely perfect at 8-10cm, it focuses very quickly. I just test it now, in a room artificially lit (so lighting is not so good either) - focuses on the text at a distance of 9cm (just checked at best with a ruler!).
Tags: Motorola Phones
You have the iPhone Plus 7 and the last LR Mobile app. I found pretty quickly that native iPhone 7 more closest distance of focus of the camera app is of about 1/3 of the camera inside LR Mobile. I can concentrate well at in about 4 "on the native iPhone camera application. However, when I go to the LR nearest Mobile camera to which it will focus is about a foot.
Anyone else notice this oddity? Is this a bug any?
I confirmed with a developer, this is a hardware limitation of the telephoto lens. In the native camera, if you press the button 2 x and try to focus on something that is too narrow for telephoto, iOS actually happening at the level of the lens and a harvest. In LR Mobile if you choose telephoto, lfwa remains on it is the goal even if your subject is too narrow and unclear. Our advice is to not use of the 7 + telephoto lens for close-ups.
Hope this explanation helps.
radial-gradient([*focus-angle* <angle>,]?) [* focus-distance * < percent >]? [< point > central]? RADIUS [< length > | < percent >] [[repeat | reflect],]? (< color-stop > [, < color-stop >] +)
Could someone enlighten me what they mean? I wrote a small tool for Visual definition of Gradients (http://22.214.171.124/blog/2012/04/13/it-works-fxexperience-tools-gradienteditor-plugin/) as an extension to the FXExperience tools, and I would include if it makes sense.
Focus-angle and distance from development are used together to determine the focal point of the radial structure.
See this image: http://www.webdesign.org/img_articles/6822/gradient.jpg
I tried to take a photo of a label on a jar with my Xoom and she was fuzzy unuseably.
What is the point of minimum distance to the camera of the Xoom?
How can I change the settings like zoon, focus, etc... real time in my application labwindows?
something like: Sendparameters.execute (zoom, focus, cam1);
Thank you for all.
If your camera manual does not list the attributes available for your camera, you can ask a list.
What follows is taken from KnowledgeBase OR call: get programmatically and set attributes with IMAQdx vs IMAQ for IEEE 1394.
IMAQdxGetAttributecall to obtain a specific attribute value or the function parameter. If you do not know the exact name or the value of an attribute, you can call
IMAQdxEnumerateAttributeValuesto return these data.
If you do not know in advance the number of values of attributes that are available, you can get this information by following these steps:
- Call him
IMAQdxEnumerateAttributes2function with the attributeInformationArray set to NULL parameter. The required size is then stored in count.
- Divide County with the given size.
- Call this function using the previously allocated table
You can do the same steps for IMAQdxEnumerateAttributeValues by setting the parameter list with NULL value, which stores the necessary size in size. For more information about the use of these functions and other IMAQdx for textual languages, please see the NOR-IMAQdx function reference help to found in Instruments\NI-IMAQdx\Docs national virtue.
Once you find the attribute to set, you can use IMAQdxSetAttribute() to control your zoom and focus functions.
- Call him
Hi everyone - I just joined the Group today. I just bought the T5 and I already need help! I went to dinner tonight and brought my new toy with me and I just thought that I play with it in full auto mode and get a few shots. The lighting was not great but not horrible either, but in full auto mode it wouldn't focus and take the picture. I had the 18-55 kit lens. I've been about 3 feet from my subject. My camera phone was able to fire a shot then why couldn't my T5?
OK we'll see;
Your goal should focus about 1 foot. In the limit, you said, so this is not it.
In Full Auto, flash should have arisen if it was too dark. So, this isn't it no more. Is it?
What could be the cause is, you had the goal set to MF. The T5 works OK in normal daylight?
You can't really compare a cell phone for a digital SLR camera. They don't work the same way. They have more in common with a video camera as them with a digital SLR. It is not a trigger in a cell phone. If the sensor very, very little is excited for as long as necessary to get the image. One of the reasons why their pictures are so bad, not to mention the tiny sensor!
I think you should start from scratch. Redefine the T5 on factory defults and try again making sure that the lens is in AF, too. The camera will only get you even in Full Auto. Format the SD card once again, too. Fully charge the battery. If there is a problem with the T5, the Service Center ask you this question, or do it for you, then you might as well do it first.
Hi guys: a few weeks ago, I realized that my camera is no longer able to focus. If anyone has experienced this problem and can it be resolved?
Guy: Please disregard, I got it sorted, resetting the device to be fixed.
Hello, I have problems with my Microsoft Lifecam 5000. Whenever I'm recording video with her, during playback, I hear clicking on and a beep sound when the camera is focusing. If I put it to my ear, the sound is low but I can still here it when it focuses.
Thanks for posting in the Microsoft Community Forum.
I understand from your description, that you get beep when the camera is focusing.
To better understand the question, please answer the following questions:
1. have you made changes on the computer before this problem?
2. is it works much earlier?
Come back with more information to help you better.
I suggest you to download and install the latest drivers for Microsoft Lifecam 5000 from the link provided:
You can even try recording by reducing the volume on the computer to the minimum level (mute) just to check if beep occurs.
For more information, see the link below:
Hope the above information is helpful. If you have any question back to us, we are happy to help you.
In the camera the number for focus settings are red. Didn t know what it was but after watching a tutorial, I realized that the focus was related to the point of interest.
It has to happen without that I noticed. The question is how to untie that?
Red = expressions. ALT + click on the timer to add, then remove them.
How do you keep the Rebel T3i in short, when shooting video of moving objects that are moving towards or away from the camera? I understand the Nikon D5100 has continuous autofocus, but the Canon EOS Rebel T3i doesn't have such a feature.
The AI Servo AF mode is for moving subjects when the focus distance continues to change. While you hold down the shutter button halfway, the topic will focus at all times.
To access this mode, press the arrow key to the right (AF) and choose "AI Servo", as shown below:
- Exposure is set at the moment the picture is taken.
- The selection of the point AF is automatic, the camera first use the central AF point to focus. During the development automatic, if the subject moves away from the center of focus, followed continues as long as the subject is covered by another area of focus.
G ' Day,.
I'm trying to set the camera focus mode and have encountered a problem. Modes of return of camera_get_focus_modes (*) indicate that six modes of development are now supported. But when I try to put one of these modes via a call to camera_set_focus_mode (*), that the call returns
who is documented as meaning: "the function call failed because the requested operation is not supported.
Is it simply an artifact of the DevAlpha? In other words, the modes of development returned by camera_get_focus_modes (*) * will * be implemented by real hardware, but not on the DevAlpha? Or I'm doing something stupid blinding?
EDIT: With the help of DevAlpha B.
Thanking you in advance... - Sam.
The viewfinder must run first.
There is here a sample which passes through different modes of development:
See you soon,.
I have an old Canon Ftb with a goal of 1.4 fd. I'm getting into digital cameras now (just to have a 12 G for now, mainly used for underwater photography). I would like to stay with Canon, but I'm very annoyed that Canon doesn't have a way to continue to use their old lenses. Nikon, for all their flaws are much better at you can continue to use your old stuff.
Then I find that if I'm going to Sony (Yes, really, Sony) can I use my lenses from Canon ol via an adapter. This my Canon, tell me it ain't so. You must have a way, I just have not yet discovered.
There are many challenges with this and the "adapters" are to be considered with a certain scepticism.
The FD lenses are mechanical - no electronics. The case of the unit, on the other hand, has an electronic interface for the lens - nothing of mechanics. This means that if you set the goal, you would have to manually set the aperture but also of manual focus of the lens.
Your Canon DSLR had a split Prism focusing in the viewfinder to help. A new camera does not work. The reason why there is no help from the development is because most of the lenses are autofocus so it is simply not necessary. This makes it particularly difficult to tell when you've worn exactly the goal. Making it even more difficult is that any device with a sensor size of APS - C (most of them) have a small viewfinder that you had on your Canon SLR photography.
In addition, the lenses are optimized for a specific back focus distance. Canon's EOS cameras have a depth of 44 m from the mounting flange of lens at the front of the body at the level of development within the body. When you use an adapter, it modifies that distance. If you change too much, the lens behaves as if it is mounted with extension tubes, the entire range of focus is moved closer to the camera, and it can be is no longer able to focus to infinity.
There are 3 parties that make these lenses... conversion kits but they do them for a few drinks (not all) and that they require a bit of surgery on the goal (e.g. this level which protrudes beyond the rear of the lens used to set the aperture value should go).
But... the modern lenses are just so much better than the old FD lenses. Requires really quite the dozen FD lens to make it interesting this fuss. Also, I own a Canon SLR (AE-1) and a few glasses of FD... but have no interest in trying to use one of these lenses on my EOS DSLR cameras.
I think that this question almost as Ford asking why they do not wheel adapters let wheels it T model mount on a Mustang of 2015. The new wheels are so much better than the old wheels, you want to continue to use the old wheels.
Leave your old lenses in the past. Mine are on the shelf alongside my AE-1... body as a conversation piece. I don't actually use them.
I can't manually or automatically concentrate my Rebel T3i on distant objects when you use the tube Extender Canon EF 25 II on Canon EFS 18-55 mm and 55-250 mm EFS. Close-up of the objects will be very fine.
Yes - it should be... nothing is wrong.
When you use an extension tube, you move the lens away from the sensor. As a result, that ALL the focus range is shifted to physically closer distances.
This means that your closest focus distance is closer that it was... and it also means that your FARTHEST development is AS close as it used to be (you can not focus at infinity).
Extension tubes are specifically added to allow the camera to focus closer. If you do not need to focus more closely, do not use an extension tube.
I bought a t3i two years ago and a half years. The last time I tried to use the camera, it wouldn't auto-focus. After reading online, I tried the following:
-remove the battery for more than 10 minutes
-check with another lens
-swtich between AF & MF a few times
The only thing that worked was switchign the camera for "live-view". When in "live-view" the camera is autofocus.
Don't know what my next steps should be - have a great trip in three weeks and would like to have my camera working at this time.
The unit uses another system update in 'live view', and is used when you use the viewfinder.
Your camera has 9 autofocus sensors on the floor of the camera. You can put the camera in a mode where it uses all 9 areas of focus. Be aware that if 9 points are on topics of different distances, the point that the camera will choose will be the one with the CLOSEST focusing distance.
Alternatively, you can place the camera in a mode where YOU choose which of the 9 AF points will be used.
Page 85 of your owner's manual you will show how to take a specific point AF or set mode where it uses all the.
These areas of focus will ONLY work if the target has a report f / d of f/5.6 or less. If you use a lens with a focal length multiplier, you have multiple focal report of the lens by the focal length multiplier factor. For example a variable zoom f/3.5-5.6 who is zoomed in a little used f/5.6. Put a teleconverter 1.4 x on this goal and it becomes a target of f/8 (autofocus will NOT work at f/8) or put a 2 x teleconverter on this lens and it becomes a f/11 (auofocus certainly will not work at f/11). A teleconverter 1.4 x suitable only for f/4 or faster lenses. A teleconverter 2 x, suitable only for f/2.8 or faster lenses.
Maybe something is blocking certain AF points in your camera. When is clean? You can remove the lens, turn it on, use the menus to put in manual sensor cleaning mode. This will cause the reflex mirror and lift to expose the sensor... but she exposes also the 9 AF sensors on the ground of the camera (you will not see the sensors... you will see only tiny holes/ports in the background and the sensors are hidden under these.) If you see any dust or debris in there, then it would be a problem. Just get a hand blower pressed (as a blower of Rocket Giotto... it's the bulb you squeeze with your hand to get the puffs of air) and serve. Do not use compressed air cans. They can leave a residue and if you get the residue on the sensors, you have a big problem because you can't them without disassembling the camera. NO CANNED COMPRESSED AIR... NEVER!
If you don't see anything visibly in the camera and you are not using a teleconverter that gets you over f/5.6 and you put the camera auto-choisir the Focus point and it cannot always focus... you should contact Canon service for help because you have exhausted well enough that you can do yourself.
Animal crackers, trying to control the cameras in AE is crazy crazy and intuitive.
I can't turn around an object, from the point of view itself.
After some modifications, the rotation parameters seem to sense, as if they were in a sort of gimble lock.
Someone please tell me something good...
I'm just trying to create a simple camera on a 3D text movement.
Element of learning 3d, just the layer of the element with a default camera...
To make precise camera moves, on the set, I put the camera on a Dolly, move the carriage and change the way the camera points. Make the precise moves camera AE I have parents a 3D 'dolly' null for the camera first now buy the SHIFT key if null and the camera are in the same position, then I cancel parenthood and to the "dolly" the parent of the camera so I can move the camera with the null value.
Then I add a 'focus' null in 3D to the timeline and set the point the camera of interest to null with an expression. I also attach focal distance to null to an expression. Now you can adjust and animate the camera position to the value null in the arrow pointing upwards or downwards, move the carriage to move the camera and animate the null of development to address the development and where the points of the camera by using the null object. EZ PZ.
I don't have the time to show you the expressions but they are pretty simple. You set the point of interest as you drag the pickwhip. Length allows you to set the focus distance.
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