Designation of bodies rebel SL1: AA vs. BA

Similar Questions

• Canon Rebel SL1 do not download Images for Macbook Air

  My Canon Rebel SL1 won't download pictures on my Macbook Air. I downloaded the pictures happens countless times, but recently, whenever I connect my camera to my computer the following:

  iPhoto opens and it shows that my device is recognized and import the button is grayed out. The images never appear on the screen, and I am not able to do something with my photos. I have a Macbook Air, so I don't have a disk drive. I don't have a card reader.

  Please help me with this.

  Thank you

  -Hayley

  Get a card reader - they sold abut $10 - and see if that helps. Or connect to another computer - a friend even. See if that helps.

  If it is not: what version of iPhoto? What version of the operating system?

• Former 1990 EF lenses are compatible with the new EOS Rebel SL1 body

  Recently, I discovered my film camera EOS 650 purchased circa 1990 with 3 EF lenses (50 mm, 35-105 mm, 100-300 mm), in perfect condition. These old lenses would be incompatible with a new EOS Rebel SL1 body?

  Thanks also to ebiggs.

• The rebel sl1 is adjustable to use only the Center focus point?

  The rebel sl1 is adjustable to use only the Center focus point?

  I've never used one, but I'm sure you can.  Judging by the images I found on a Google search looking for the button in the top right rear, it looks like a rectangle with a sign in there.  Which will allow you to select your focus points.

• The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 fits my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 work on my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  Yes.  It's a lens EF - S (EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens)

  The SL1 Rebel can use almost any lens Canon EOS... regardless of EF-S vs EF.  He can even use the TS-E and MP-E lenses.

  Lenses which does not take your camera are the "EF - M" lenses (there are two of them at last I checked).  Those who are made to the 'mirrorless' body of Canon, which is not sold in North America.

• I am trying to open raw photos and it does not work I have 6 suites and photos taken on a Canon EOS Rebel SL1 creative

  I am trying to open raw photos and it does not work I have 6 suites and photos taken on a Canon EOS Rebel SL1 creative

  Hi irod,.

  Greetings.

  • Latest version of camera raw for CS 6 is 9.1
  • Check now if your camera is to 9.1 or higher
    • Devices supported by Adobe Camera Raw
  • If requires 9.2 or later, then you should switch to PS CC or use the dng converter
  • But if it is support less 9.1 then use this link to install camera aw 9.1 and then try to open pictures
    • Plugin Raw camera setup
  • If still you have questions then please paste a screenshot of the issue in more detail.

  Concerning

  Rohit

• EOS Rebel SL1 Mode Dial problems

  Hi, I don't know much about cameras, but I've always wanted a nice like that, and a friend of mine told me that the SL1 was good for beginners. It came in the mail today and I just started to experiment and play around with it. I don't know if it's something I did by mistake or it's just a problem with the camera, but I realized that the Mode dial is not correctly programmed. In order to develop if I had to turn the knob to the symbol A + (I'm sorry if this isn't what it's called), the camera will enter the function of sports. I'm sorry, but I really do not understand this and I would love it if someone could help me. Thank you!

  Hmmm.

  On this camera, the sport mode is directly opposite the position of the mode A + (Auto).  There is a small pip as an indicator on the camera on the left side of the dial.

  Are you sure you look white pip and not power on leverage as an indicator?

  If so, that's the problem.

  Otherwise:

  Do ALL modes to register as one just in front of the right pair, or they are all Sports are random or something?

  Patterns are printed on a sheet of thin "cap" which is literally glued on top of the handle.  I know because mine fell once and I had to stick on.  I guess it's possible they put on back at the factory, but I don't think because there was a small crack in the button and a tab in the CAP, which have to align or well you can not set the cap in the flush.

  If you read right and the button won't you need to return the camera.

• How to reset the EOS Rebel SL1 to factory settings? There is no setting in one of the keys.

  I tried the reset, read and watched the video intructions but my camera is not a "clear settings" under ONE of the functions of the menu. My menu consists of 2 camera, arrow 2 and 3 key icons.   It is different from any that I have seen in books or online.  I would be grateful for any guidance.  Thank you.

  Put it in p mode. The menus are considerably simplified in the green square.

• my new rebel sl1 came not with the portrait of the candle as it is supposed to, how can I get it

  I have reflected on the support download this option but can't find one that fits?

  called Canon, the answer is that you cannot use direct mode with the candle light so if you have a direct mode on it even you will not show the option candle light... Crazy... but at least I know it's there

• I have a canon eos rebel sl1/100 d. I can't take a picture.

  I can't take a picture. The battery works, the memory card has been reformatted. I had the unit about 6 months. I took a lot of pictures on vacation this summer. I uploaded these photos. I started taking pictures, and I can't get a picture.

  If the unit is in 'One Shot' factory default mode, so should not be a picture unless it can confirm that it was able to lock the focus on a subject.  No accent... no picture.

  If, however, you reverse this little switch on the side of your lens that says "AF/MF" on the "MF" position (it is 'Manual' and AF is "Update automatically") THEN you get an exception... "MF" position, the device is ready to take a picture no matter if she thinks that the image is sharp or not... He doesn't care.  Touch that little switch to "MF" you said on camera that YOU will take care of the update and it is not not to consider the development at all.

  If the camera will take a picture (even if it is blurry) when the lens is in a position to "MF", this means the reason why he was not taking a picture before is because of his inability to focus.

  There may be a few reasons why a camera could not focus.

  (1) not enough light: to test this situation... just go to a place where there are a lot of light.  ... Outside in the middle of the day.

  (2) a problem with one of the systems of development.  It turns out that your camera has in fact two systems different focus (completely independent).  One is used when you are looking through the viewfinder to compose the picture.  The other is used if you use the live view screen to compose view.  The reason why there are two different systems is because your camera has a mirror inside.  When you look through the viewfinder, you are actually looking through the lens.  To do this, they need to put a mirror between the lens and the sensor, so you can browse through the same lens that camera is to use.  But which reflect the light to reach the sensor blocks.  So they actually have a system of development that does not use the sensor and can focus when the mirror is in the way that (the mirror of the part of the light bounces actually in focus sensors).  When the mirror went away (for the live-view shooting) it obviously can flip any light in this special focus sensor.  To remedy this, it uses image sensor of the camera work on the update.

  The two systems are independent, and the only thing in common is that they both send instructions to the lens to move the focus in or out.    If a system of development does not work... try another (update looking in the viewfinder... and test development using the "live view" mode (only not looking in the viewfinder.))

  (3) but that leads us to the third possible problem: the lens.  The engines of development (for any Canon camera) are in the objective... not in the camera.  The camera simply gives instructions to the lens it say how adjust the setting to the point and to what extent.  Is there a problem with the lens, then it can not focus... even if there is absolutely nothing wrong with the camera itself.

  If you have a different purpose, you can swap lenses and see if the camera still has a focus problem.  If it has only a focus with a particular lens problem... it's the objective that needs service and not the camera.

• CS 5 Extended will not open my SL1 Canon Raw files

  My Raw plugin is 6.7.0.339. Is there a later version for me to download and install? Do I need to use the Adobe's DNG Converter? If so, which version?
  

  Forgive me if this question was asked before. Did search the forums, I have not found an answer for CS5 Extended.

  Thank you!

  Your version of Photoshop does not open Canon Digital Rebel SL1 images directly. Support was not added until Photoshop CS6 in Camera Raw 7.4.

  Adobe stopped upgrading older versions of Camera Raw to be able to read the raw files of the newer cameras every time they released a new major release of Photoshop.  Thus, the version that you receive more updates and can never directly open your CR2 files.

   

  You can check yourself:

  
  

  First of all, you need to determine what Adobe has released support for your new camera in Photoshop. To do this, look at these two pages.  You'll want to discover the first version of Camera Raw that can support your camera, then what version of Photoshop can run this version of Camera Raw.

  Camera Raw plugin | Supported devices

  Applications of camera Raw compatible Adobe

  Because your version of Photoshop is unable to take in charge your camera directly, you can download and install the latest version of the free Adobe DNG Converter, which can take your raw as input files and put the files to DNG, which can open your version of Photoshop.

  Using Photoshop | Digital Negative (DNG)

  The DNG Converter works, and you will be able to open the DNG files converted with your version of Photoshop, but if you want maximum quality of your raw files (without forgetting the convenience and ease of use to directly open your raw files) you'll want to the latest version of Photoshop. Adobe has made substantial improvements in the quality of the raw conversion in recent years.

  Note the availability of creative photography all cloud low cost:

  Creative test free cloud & plans: Adobe Creative Cloud

  -Christmas

• Format of the crop sensor / subject remotely / calibration full AOV equivalent framework

  While using the crop sensor format, how can we adjust the distance of subjects to have the same field of view (AOV) in return, full frame, assuming that the current focal length in use has already been evaluated in order to take into account the standard of 35 mm film? I have the EOS Rebel SL1.

  character_stops wrote:

  Yes. I'm sure that the camera I have is the smallest format. That's why I think I need to experiment with several lenses to see how everyone reacts. I think that the format of my camera is 2 x 3, but I'm not completely sure.  After my image size more great cameras in Ps, I chose a preset of the photo, and it converted to 2 x 3 inches. Would this mean a culture factor much more than 7.5?

  Do not confuse "cropping" in Photoshop with the "culture lens/sensor factors" for your camera.

  Photoshop (and many other software image) have a number of current relationships preset image for purposes of culture aspectg. Choice 2:3 in Photoshop will make the area of the whole image that is produced by your camera. Then, you can resize a number of common paper sizes... 4 x 6 inches, 6 x 9, 8 x 12 inch and 12 x 18 (or 13 x 19) inch... that all share the same images of proportions.

  If you choose rather the proportions 4:5 in the truncation of software tool, some of the longest axis of the image will be deleted off the coast, but you can then resize the image to fit other common paper sizes such as 4 "x 5", 8 x 10 inch, 16 x 20 inches.

  There are also a few formats of common paper who don't exactly conform to one pre-defined aspect ratios, for example 5 x 7 inch and 11 x 14 inches. These are somewhere between the two.

  Your camera has a ratio of 2:3 (not 2 x 3). This has been fairly uniform among the 35mm film SLRs and was postponed to digital, too (for the large part... There are a few exceptions). The actual size of your camera sensor is approximately 15x22mm. The so-called "full frame" cameras also have a 2:3 format... is about the actual size of their 24x36mm sensor.

  In other words, the same proportion (IE ' side short vs long side ") is possible in different sizes (both in the sensor format or the movie... and printing of paper sizes). Don't worry too much on this subject the reference to large format... Which seemed to have been mentioned just to demonstrate that there are all kinds of "lens factors" that you can get caught up in the calculation, but this does not really much.

  Focal length does not change. 50mm is 50mm no matter what.

  But a 50mm lens on a format behaves differently than it does on another format. On your camera with sensor 15x22mm is a 50mm focal length lens acts as a nice "short telephoto.  Put the same focal exact on a digital point-n-shoot which has a very small sensor and it can behave as a very powerful, long telephoto.  If not, put this same 50mm on a digital camera to 'full frame' and it will act as a 'standard' lens (that is, not wide or Telephoto). Or, put this same 50mm on a camera film of medium format, which has an image 60x70mm area and this will be a lens wide angle. Finally, put it on a film camera of large format as a 4 x 5 (... equal to approximately 100x125mm inches) and the same focal length of 50 mm behaves like an extreme wide-angle.

  You say you have a kit lens... I guess it's a zoom. Probably an EF-S 18-55mm lens and an EF-S 18-135mm lens. You also have a 50mm 'first' (not a zoom) EF lens. If you set the zoom EF-S 50mm it will give exactly the same angle of view as the lens EF 50 mm Prime. The only difference is that the EF-S lens is specifically designed for smaller sensor cameras, while the EF lens is designed to give an image circle large enough to cover the area from a towards full frame camera.

  Yes, it is true, because they do not need to produce as big a circle frame EF-S or "cultures only" lenses designed for use on small photo sensor can be smaller in size, lighter and less expensive than the lenses made to cover the full frame sensor image area.

  If your kit lens is a 18-55mm, on your camera that provides a variable angle of view ranging from the wide-angle moderate standard to short telephoto. If it's a 18-135mm kit lens, which gives a little wider TV, a moderate telephoto.

  I hope that makes sense!

• Helps the first ever camera purchase

  Hello everyone, I'm looking for in getting my first camera ever and hoped to get a suggestion or two. I want to be able to use in low light conditions as the observation of the stars if possible, but the main reason would be to use on holiday, seen seeing. I personally found the DxO One for the price of $500 and don't know if the size of outweigh the specifications of the camera for that price. I have also suggested the Sony A6000, $550.

  I was hoping to get some suggestions for a first time purchase at or around the same price range as the two cameras above the barrel.

  Thank you very much for your help!

  cciga wrote:

  Hello everyone, I'm looking for in getting my first camera ever and hoped to get a suggestion or two. I want to be able to use in low light conditions as the observation of the stars if possible, but the main reason would be to use on holiday, seen seeing. I personally found the DxO One for the price of $500 and don't know if the size of outweigh the specifications of the camera for that price. I have also suggested the Sony A6000, $550.

  I was hoping to get some suggestions for a first time purchase at or around the same price range as the two cameras above the barrel.

  Thank you very much for your help!

  My personal opinion is the One DxO a gadget out of price point and shoot camera.

  On the side of Cannon I would consider the PowerShot G7 X renovated ($449.99) directly from Canon with the one year warranty.

  Regarding the Sony A6000 is where the cannon becomes the choice clearly better. When it comes to cameras with interchangeable lenses, Canon has the best value of lens there. STM of Canon lenses offer outstanding image quality, at an unbeatable price.

  The EOS Rebel SL1 with EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Kit Lens STM black handed to nine ($329.99) direct from Canon with the one year warranty.

  The SL1 received DPReviews Gold Award and was chosen as their "Camera of the year".

• walls out yellow

  I have an EOS Rebel SL1. I love the photo. but when I take pictures at my church, that the walls are yellow in the background. the topics are very good on the photo. It's just the walls. What can I do? I'm still learning abt the settings, IE. White balance, f stop, etc. will I just have to 'play' with different settings? where should I start witht the frame numbers?

  TTMartin wrote:
  

  slaw1962 wrote:

  I have an EOS Rebel SL1. I love the photo. but when I take pictures at my church, that the walls are yellow in the background. the topics are very good on the photo. It's just the walls. What can I do? I'm still learning abt the settings, IE. White balance, f stop, etc. will I just have to 'play' with different settings? where should I start witht the frame numbers?

  If you use the flash to illuminate your subject, it will often be a different color temperature than that of the interior lighting of a building (a church). Shooting RAW allows you to adjust the picture's overall color temperature, it becomes much more complicated to address two different sections with two different white balances.

  The solution is to add a color to your flash filter is the same color as the interior lighting of your church. Google "Strobist" for more information on how this is done.

  Is this exactly.  Your flash is a more blue white as the interior lighting of the Church. The small flash has only a short range and the power of his light decreases very rapidly with distance. Automatic white balance of the camera knows you use flash so he chooses a color that makes the flash lit subject look good, but the background is off.

  There is little for pop-up flash light modifiers.  Most are broadcasters, but some may change the color, I think.  You can be a lot more happy just buy a Speedlite flash instead. It has longer range and there are many many modifiers of color available for them.

• Change of name of the owner in EOS 5 d camera

  I need to change the name of the owner in my trusty EOS 5 d.  If I understand correctly, this is possible with the Canon EOS Utility.  (Change the name of the owner of the camera allows me to add the name of the author, also, in the case where an image is processed without adding all the valuable metadata.)

  I am currently using EOS Utility version 2.13.10.  I see my EOS 5 d MKII camera with no problem, and I can change the owner of camera information.

  Unfortunately, I do not see my 5 d in the EOS Utility.  I use a Mac Book Pro running OS 10.6.8.

  I can, however, pull captive in Capture One, but not of Adobe Lightroom. We are all aware of the many combinations of cameras and software applications and their compatibility - I was hunting this for years.

  So... Does EOS Utility 2.13.10 version does NOT work with a Canon EOS 5 d? What I have to revert to a previous version to make it work?

  Thank you.

  Model of support for EOS Utility version 2.13

  70 d, EOS Kiss X 7 EOS / EOS Rebel SL1 / EOS 100 d, EOS Kiss X7i / EOS REBEL T5i / EOS 700 d, C of the EOS - 1 d, 6 d, M EOS, EOS 60Da, EOS Kiss X6i EOS / EOS REBEL T4i / EOS 650 D, EOS 5 d Mark III, EOS - 1 d, EOS Kiss X 5 / EOS REBEL T3i / EOS 600 d, EOS Kiss X 50 / EOS REBEL T3 / EOS 1100D, EOS 60 d , EOS Kiss X 4 / EOS REBEL T2i / EOS 550 d, EOS 7 d, EOS - 1 d Mark IV, EOS Kiss X 3 / EOS REBEL T1i / EOS 500 d, EOS 5 d Mark II, EOS 50 d, EOS 40 d, EOS Kiss F / EOS REBEL XS / EOS 1000 d, EOS Kiss X 2 / EOS REBEL XSi / EOS 450 d, EOS - 1Ds Mark III, EOS - 1 d Mark III