detail of light and shadow can be edited in Photos?

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• When a photo has for example a bright sky beside the dark object, using lights and shadows can cause a 'halo' or double edge to appear. How can I avoid this?

  When a photo for example has a bright sky next to the dark object, using lights and shadows to reduce high contrast can cause a 'halo' or double-edge to appear. How can I avoid this?

  From my experience, this isn't a problem that has a simple solution, such as moving a slider or a combination of the sliders in LR. It requires rather a major change in the technique, at the unit or in office. Some pros (I am not one) tire ALWAYS support HDR or this reason - better transition from highlights to shadows, then tweak the image with much less "heavy" necessary. Another popular technique is the luminosity masking and blending in PS. There is a ton of information on this topic (just do a search on Youtube), but it's not easy to learn or do, but it can eliminate this problem.

• Print quality of gradients of gray light and shadows

  Hi all

  I am putting together a flyer only page which will have gradients of light and shadows on objects.

  Think that the shadows and Apple-ish light gray...

  I would like to get a review here of someone in the know as I am much more than print digital.

  (1) what is the lightest gray although I can work that will print well?

  When you configure the CMYK color should I simply put it in say 10% 10% 10% 10% or is there a better mix for gradients of gray. a little blue for example, or a mixture rich black.

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  Finally,.

  When creating my images with shadows and slopes support, it would be better just create them in Photoshop and put them in my illustrator document and leave Illustrator to the text alone?

  Thank you in advance, I really appreciate your help

  Gray can be a subjective thing, especially when it comes to "which is too light? Personally, I try to not take any less than 10% gray. To answer your direct questions:

  (1) I would avoid making a mixture of gray, go all your lighter mix colors, they will be dyed and muddy. If you go for a deliberately cool gray I would use something like 3/0/0/10. If you want something more pure, just use shades of black.

  (2) illustrator is currently the best support of transparency. If using the white gradient does not interfere with what anyone elese about your history, I would stick with that.

  (3) you can go either way (Photoshop or Illustrator) to create your gradients. When it comes to most output devices, Photoshop gradients tend to run a little better (to know information static instead of dynamic vectors), but they restrict you during the design (as in Illustrator you can keep changing on a whim). Being a single page flyer, I would stick with Illustrator.

• Library closure won't go away, and I can open is more photos

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  menu Apple == > force quit

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• I wanted to use a picture to replace a sky in my landscape photo what license would I need and I can always sell my photo

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  Adobe Stock help | Frequently asked questions

  Royalty-free images, pictures and graphics. Adobe Stock

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  can yotell me what is it and why its doing this and how can I solve this problem

  The path contains a backslash. If so, change it.   It would be useful to show the way you want to import from.  You can try to modify the handling setting in the preferences for the second parameter where the backslash is considered to be illegal and is replaced.  Its probably best to simply not use these characters in any case.

  

• I'm in lightroom and I can not to send photos to photoshop. Someone help me?

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  You're not giving us a whole bunch to go. What OS, what you are doing to open the photo in Photoshop, etc.

• I just bought shares of adobe and I can't edit photos?

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  Hello

  Please see Stock FAQ: what is Adobe Stock?

  Hope that helps!

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• When you try to play .mp4 files in WMP, I hear the sound but the picture is distorted and I can't see the photo in Windows Media Player.

  * Original title: Windows Media PLayer

  I have Windows Media Player version 12 installed but when you try to play .mp4 files in WMP, I hear the sound but the picture is distorted and I can't see the picture.  Please see image attached.

  Even if I see that I can change the version of the file in a different format, I have the same problem with videos on websites that I can not of course change the format before playing these.

  I managed to fix the problem for about 20 minutes by flattening my computer re - install the operating system and this resolved until all updates have been through, and then it disappeared again.  I tried many codecs packs and this still does not help.

  My system is running Windows 7 and Media Player version is 12.0.7601.18840, which tells me that Media Player is the most recent version.

  Please can someone help?

  

  Open uninstall a program in windows and in the left click on the feature to turn on or off windows. Clear the check box of the window Media Player, and then click ok. This will uninstall the drive, and then restart.

  After restarting the same steps, now, check the box for the same and perform a restart and if all goes well it should solve the problem.

  Note: Make sure that Windows is up-to-date.

• help I lr4 and I can't download raw photos from my nikon d750 what should I do, I don't want to have to spend more money :/

  I bought lr4 earlier when I had a d5100 and had no problem download from raw formats I stopped using it for some time and had to get a new hard drive for my mac, in doing so, I had to reload lr4 now, I have a new camera which is a d750 and its not letting me upload photos in raw format do - what I do :/

  The D750 needs at least LR 5.7 or higher to function. If you don't want to upgrade, the only option is to use the DNG Converter on the raw images that will make them able to be read by LR4.

  The Plan of photographers gives you LR and Photoshop and is the cheapest option, you can find LR5 on Amazon or similar, but is no longer available from Adobe themselves!

• I went in lightroom today and it can't find my photos. I bought an external hard drive and copied some elements but did not cut their.  I did a back up on my external hard drive but didn't budge them. I did the simple troubleshooting and I

  I went in lightroom and can't find my photos. I lost the link before and did the right click to find and they have been found, but it's different.

  I bought an external hard drive and copied some elements but did not cut their.  I did a back up on my external hard drive, but even once did not move them. I did the simple troubleshooting and it doesn't work.  I'm trying to find the original by right clicking the? on the folder LR and once I find the file it tells me that Lightroom has this file already in the catalog - and I want to merge. I tried one and it disappeared or moved. Help!

  Use the file Explorer to see if the images are still in their original location. I suspect that move instead of copy them. This can happen if you drag you the.

  I found that it is best to use either right click on a file or folder name and select copy then right click on the drive-destination folder and select Paste or use keyboard shortcuts to copy and paste folder and files from one disk to another. The keyboard shortcuts are the CTRL + key C to copy and Ctrl + V to paste in the selected destination folder-drive.

• How can I get the relief of lights and shadows of otherwise transparent type?

  I want to type in a form that cleared the underlying image side highlight of embossing and dark on the side of the shadow, but leaves the body of the transparent type embossed. How would I do that? I apply a certain amount of transparency of a layer of text, then the type is not totally obcure the underlying image.

  I usually apply a fairly transparent version of a copyright image in Lightroom, to keep discreet but always readable, if you really look for it. See the bottom left of the pictures to https://www.facebook.com/drew.tronvig/media_set?set=a.10151421311963431.507404.596468430 & t ype = 3. I created this image of copyright in GIMP or something, but I need to generate even more, and I really want to stay in Photoshop.

  Use the Layer Styles and set the fill of the layer (in the layers panel) to 0.

  -Christmas

• Help! distortion of red and blue in the areas of light and shadow of my photos? Only develop tab...

  I am changing a stream of photos from yesterday and everything was going good edition yesterday and this morning, but now this afternoon, this blue distortion appeared in the Red distortion shadow areas into zones and clear. If I export the photo, it disappears, but it's very distracting, even if I'm in the tab to develop suggestions?

  Hi congillespie,

  The red and blue puts in light that you see are the clipping, you can turn it off by pressing the 'J '.

  Kind regards

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• Development of lighting and shadows settings are not functions

  While implementing a plugin to image processing, I learned something very interesting (for me) on the tones dark and light parameters of development.  The other basic tone settings (exposure, contrast, saturation, etc.) always map any one color to another simple color evenly across the image.  But the dark and light tones can map a given in multiple colors in a single image, depending on the location of the pixel color.

  For example, in a test image I made with Shadows = + 100, pixel (824 286) had its origin value of 16-bit color (0, 0, 0) transformed into (1724,1387,852).  Pixel (861 287) was also the original color (0,0,0), but it turns into a color very different (3093,2688,1316).

  Abstractly, the other the basic tone settings are functions (any input color is always the same output color), all in shadows and points strong are-to-many mappings (any color input can have several colors of output). I knew that clarity not was not a function - transformed from a pixel value would depend on neighboring pixels.  But it does appear to me that dark and light tones are not functions either.

  This property of shadows and highlights well known by experienced users of LR?  (I.e. Rob, I guess you knew that?)

  Yup - @Lr4 (PV2012) there are 3 settings using the new algorithm 'magical' from Adobe:

  * Clarity

  * Puts out

  * Shadows

  I don't know really enough to fill in many details, except to say that when you use - highlights or + shadows, he 'clarifies' highlights and/or shadows a bit, using the algorithm of the transformed of Laplace-based Adobe developed. Jeff Schewe made us a white paper on this subject in the past, but I do not know the link... For me, it is similar to the "Topaz" detail and Topaz Adjust 'adaptive' improvements - two Photoshop plugins I used regularly until the Lr4 is out (Adobe algorithm is very well done - in my opinion, better than Topaz labs, or others are doing similar things, for example, PhaseOne, DxO, Nikon,..).

  FWIW - it's one of the reasons why some people raise hell when Lr4 is out - no way to brighten the shadows using sliders base without getting the effect of clarification... That said, Eric Chan also informed us that extra Lr3 light had a similar mathematical algorithm it backup and therefore Lr4 wasn't new in this regard, only improved...

  Rob