E22220 Office: repair or replace the female plug headphones

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  I suggest you make a room upgrade Windows 7 to see if that solves the problem.  Please take a look at the following article with instructions and details:

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  Diagnostic report (1.9.0027.0):
  -----------------------------------------
  Validation of Windows data-->
  Validation status: invalid license
  Validation code: 50
  Validation caching Code online: n/a, hr = 0xc004f012
  Windows product key: *-* - XY9X3 - JDXYP-6CJ97
  The Windows Product Key hash: xFQJU8srKsovk6p1Lk1yW93in4E =
  Windows product ID: 89583-OEM-7332157-00211
  Windows product ID type: 2
  Windows license Type: OEM SLP
  The Windows OS version: 6.0.6002.2.00010300.2.0.003
  ID: {F20B4B72-1308-45BE-8F90-95E91A3F0AAF} (1)
  Admin: Yes
  TestCab: 0x0
  LegitcheckControl ActiveX: N/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  Signed by: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  Product name: Windows Vista (TM) Home Premium
  Architecture: 0 x 00000009
  Build lab: 6002.vistasp2_gdr.110617 - 0336
  TTS error:
  Validation of diagnosis:
  Resolution state: n/a

  Given Vista WgaER-->
  ThreatID (s): n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  Version: N/a, hr = 0 x 80070002

  Windows XP Notifications data-->
  Cached result: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  File: No.
  Version: N/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  WgaTray.exe signed by: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  WgaLogon.dll signed by: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002

  OGA Notifications data-->
  Cached result: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  Version: N/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  OGAExec.exe signed by: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  OGAAddin.dll signed by: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002

  OGA data-->
  Office status: 109 n/a
  OGA Version: N/a, 0 x 80070002
  Signed by: n/a, hr = 0 x 80070002
  Office Diagnostics: 025D1FF3-364-80041010_025D1FF3-229-80041010_025D1FF3-230-1_025D1FF3-517-80040154_025D1FF3-237-80040154_025D1FF3-238-2_025D1FF3-244-80070002_025D1FF3-258-3

  Data browser-->
  Proxy settings: N/A
  User Agent: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 8.0; Win32)
  Default browser: C:\Program Files (x 86) \Mozilla Firefox\firefox.exe
  Download signed ActiveX controls: fast
  Download unsigned ActiveX controls: disabled
  Run ActiveX controls and plug-ins: allowed
  Initialize and script ActiveX controls not marked as safe: disabled
  Allow the Internet Explorer Webbrowser control scripts: disabled
  Active scripting: allowed
  Recognized ActiveX controls safe for scripting: allowed

  Analysis of file data-->

  Other data-->
  Office details: {F20B4B72-1308-45BE-8F90-95E91A3F0AAF}1.9.0027.06.0.6002.2.00010300.2.0.003x 64*-*-*-*-6CJ9789583-OEM-7332157-002112S-1-5-21-923204104-223683984-168055983Acer Extensa 5630 Phoenix Technologies LTD.V1.30 20090319000000.000000 + 00070333507018400FA04090409US Mountain Standard Time(GMT-07:00)03ACRSYSACRPRDCT109

  Content Spsys.log: 0 x 80070002

  License data-->
  The software licensing service version: 6.0.6002.18005
  Name: Windows Vista, HomePremium edition
  Description: operating system Windows - Vista, channel OEM_SLP
  Activation ID: bffdc375-bbd5-499d-8ef1-4f37b61c895f
  ID of the application: 55c92734-d682-4d71-983e-d6ec3f16059f
  Extended PID: 89583-00146-321-500211-02-1033-6002.0000-0042012
  Installation ID: 004511331255365043724851364501374781338933223323713385
  Processor certificate URL: http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=43473
  The machine certificate URL: http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=43474
  Use license URL: http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=43476
  Product key certificate URL: http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=43475
  Partial product key: 6CJ97
  License status: Notification
  Notification reason: 0xC004F063.

  Windows Activation Technologies-->
  N/A

  --> HWID data
  Current HWID of Hash: OgAAAAEAAgABAAIAAwACAAAAAwABAAEAeqjWy6pVxGJ6f0DXhgfkNoBBsJzy9ErM1F/eG4QdrFYqhQ is

  Activation 1.0 data OEM-->
  N/A

  Activation 2.0 data OEM-->
  BIOS valid for OA 2.0: Yes
  Windows marker version: 0 x 20000
  OEMID and OEMTableID consistent: Yes
  BIOS information:
  ACPI Table name OEMID value OEMTableID value
  APIC APIC PTLTD
  FACP INTEL CRESTLNE
  HPET INTEL CRESTLNE
  START PTLTD $SBFTBL$
  MCFG INTEL CRESTLNE
  SLIC ACRSYS ACRPRDCT
  ASF!            OEMID OEMTBL
  SSDT BrtRef DD01BRT
  SSDT BrtRef DD01BRT

  Ah! -in this case, it is not necessary.

  I see from my records that a similar case has been solved by uninstalling and reinstalling the update WAT - KB971033

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  back line for further research.  I found a guy on this forum who had disassembled one, therefore, using
  his instructions (with some modifications), I took mine hand, found the bad soldering and fixed
  them.  Here's how:

  1. use a PIN or sharp knife to release the tiny connector black rubber that covers the screw
  It must be removed to open the case; It is located to the right of the usb plug (ahead of)
  Reader).  Put the CAP and the screws that you remove so later in a small Tupperware
  you do not lose them.
  2. remove the screw, with a very small phillips head of a glasses or a good game repair kit
  precision screwdrivers.
  3. the bottom right corner should now be free; Remove the plastic cover of metal
  Basic it and work slowly around the case counterclockwise, separating the nail of the thumb
  If you're going to.  You may need to use a tiny flat head to press the strips in transparent plastic
  which become visible when you move along the line of separation.  Take your time in order to not break
  no label.  Finally you get to the last tab in the lower left corner of the headphone jack.
  This is where I had my only problem.  Other blogs say to lift a lever to more
  release this tab; I found that nothing seemed to free him and after several minutes of
  soft eyes I broke something and it came loose.  I think it was super-colle in place!
  4. I didn't take away the little water that connects the encoder in the Council, because it is very
  difficult to re - install these things, so just press the cover of how to get to the screen and
  Live PC.  There are 2 tiny black screws holding the display remove them and
  equivalent it loose, leaving the attached ribbon cable again
  5. now you can see the battery; out of its niche and disconnect the 3 tiny dumb son.
  Nector and set it aside.
  6. push the lid, so you can see the 3 tiny black screws holding circuit board printed; delete
  them (the last is difficult to see, it's in the corner to the right of the headphone jack).  Equivalent
  the Platinum (the cursor for the power switch appears immediately switch).  You should now be
  looking at the empty metal casing and the display, printed circuit board and a plastic cover should
  all be loose, but still connected by two ribbon cables.  In the Tupperware you
  should have 1 small black cap, 1 small silver screw, 5 small black screws, the slider switch.
  and the battery.
  7. I now inspect the plug welds helmet, and it was very obvious that 2 of
  the legs were loose, probably because of not enough solder on them.  I warmed up a little
  flat-head screwdriver precision with a mini torch and has used and very fine electronics
  welding to weld safely.  After a thorough inspection of the other joints, I decided to leave
  alone because they looked OK.
  8. I now plugged the battery and booted up the test before I re-assembled.  Both
  channels played now, but I've always heard some static when you turn the CAP.  I have fig-
  measured, it was normal in my experience with small electronic devices, so I assembled the player
  and more broadly, tried using headphones and a cable to connect to my receiver.  He
  now worked better, but still had some problems with making good contact.  Now at least I can
  He lay and he will play both channels indefinitely.  I think that the problem is related to the
  bad quality of decision-making.
  9. I'm going to use it at work for a while with my powered speaker system and see how it
  works.  In the future I will try to clean the plug with the electronic device, and if that does not work
  help can I go back in and try a few welding more or contacts inside making bending.
  Worst case I might have to find a plug of new, high quality and weld them, hoping that I don't fry
  whatever it is the heat.

  So repair all taken only an hour (excluding research).  I now have the confidence to
  Difficulty everything that can go wrong in the future.  I could swap the battery in 10 minutes and I
  hear they are only about $20, so I could keep this thing going for years.  I went from $ 60
  brick for a machine that could last a long time.  I wouldn't buy a Sansa View,.
  But if you have already, I sincerely hope that this information will help to...

  It's my last update to my problem of current headphones.  The view is now fixed; Although having a few changes

  appearance.  It now sports an inch and one-quarter long cast taken helmet hanging out where the taking of origin to reside.  You can laugh now, but not for too long, because this thing is perfect now!  The repair is also robust enough to

  Use it as a portable device (carry in your pocket or other) without worrying too ripped loose.

  Here's how I did it:

  After disassembly, I unsolder the old jack, carefully lift one corner at a time, until all 6 solder joints were loose.  The

  2 front and 2 rear tabs are on enveloping metal clips which can be removed separately.  The old jack appears just out of it

  slot in the jury.  Earlier, I bought an extension of 3.5 mm headset (with volume control, $8.99, p/n 4202559) from Radio Shack, just because it was the smallest molded into the store.  They had one for $2.49, what was right, but it was twice as big, so I spent the extra bucks because he must fit into the original hole.  I now have it cut and stripped the wires, leaving only an inch of thread on the new socket.  Then I soldered the 3 wires in their appropriate places, as

  as a result;  looking at the top of the Board, with the power switch facing you, you have 6 contacts arranged like this.

  : the 2 middle are positive of left and right, top left (ground) common to both channels. The others are only to secure the plug to the Board of Directors.   After brazing firmly the son I just put all together. the ribs on the molded strain relief perfectly nested within the original hole in the case, then it will not easily get out but retains some flexibility.  The only problem I see is that the case is not quite keep hanging down in that corner more, but that could easily be corrected by a small drop of super glue.  I'll do it later if it seems that the case is in danger of seperating

  or if the wire pulls.  I have also considered the fill area with hot melt glue, but who could do a more difficult future repair.  I think that super glue will be the best and is still to open again if you only use a microdot of glue.

  So after all this pain and suffering, I finally a player, maybe I can use for years to come.  Total cost:

  Given to nine Sansa View 8 GB... $60.00

  RadioShack 3.5 mm ext. p/n 4202559... $9.00

  Duracell Micro SD card 8GB... $20.00

  Total .........................................................................$89.00

  Of course, I could buy a 16 brand new notice of GB for that price, with one year warranty!  Well, NOW you can laugh,

  as long as you want!  But wait a minute, I would have just the same problem with a new, a week or a month

  After the purchase?  Then I could send it to Sandisk for RMA and after paying for delivery, and in the meantime maybe a month to get him back, I would have another new view to manhandle.  So a year later, after the replacement of my 3rd or 4th, the guarantee was due to expire, and I do repair above on it to make it work, having had the use of the thing for only 6 months of the first year, what with shipment will remind it so many times!  So maybe my path is correct. at least I use throughout the day now, and I'll NEVER have to send anywhere.

  The moral of this story is: don't out cheap if you want a decent PMP - spend $150-200 for a Samsung P3 or a

  Cowon S3; both have video and excellent sound and can read files DivX 800 x 600 without conversion, have tactile and menus screens customizable, not to mention the bigger screens.  If you just need to play music, there are a myriad

  players good markets that are simple and almost indestructible and if you lose or break will be a much less expensive than lesson

  that I've learned.