e260r wouldn't pass the ' Sansa: Rhapsody' screen

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  No saving necessary data and re-installing Windows Vista might be the best option, but here
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  http://www.Google.com/search?hl=en&q=black+screen+of+death+Vista&btnG=search&AQ=f&OQ=&AQI=G1

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  -----------------------------------------------

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  ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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  I hope this helps.

  Rob Brown - Microsoft MVP<- profile="" -="" windows="" expert="" -="" consumer="" :="" bicycle=""><- mark="" twain="" said="" it="">

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• The Sansa Fuze is similar to the Sansa e280R?

  This is a broad question.

  There are two versions of the e200 series.

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  Remember how the e200R series had an interface more clean, which will do the same for the "rocket"?

  Haven't bought a rocket, I want to buy something.

  Is another question, with Rhapsody To Go, or what I need to add it myself?  Also, if I add Rhapsody to the "rocket", it will give the "rocket" this cleaner interface?

  When I say interface more, the version of Rhapsody had smoother transitions between menus and the text was smoother and much more readable.

  Thanks in advance!

  The Rhapsody from Sansa (e200R) has some nice features, like the 'balloon' police while rolling through the menus.  The device later, the e200v2, was also the improvement of the police.

  The aircraft later, the e200v2, became the Sansa Fuze shortly after.

  The latest Sansas, including the e200v2, the "rocket", the music video and the new Clip + are compatible, all the RhapPFS, which means that the Rhapsody feature improvements are incorporated into these devices.  Rhapsody channels appear in the main menu once the device is allowed to use the Rhapsody service.

  You also have several options, like adding channels has Rhapsody music track to the library of your device and a procurement function which signals an individual track for purchase later, when the Sansa is signed up to the service.

  The Sansa Rhapsody used format RAX of RealNetworks, a unique DRM (license based on the device) system, while the new devices use 160 kbps WMA for tracks.

  µsansa

• HP Pavillion DV5-1234SE does not start after the HP splash screen

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  Hi @samlobos,

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  If it helps, please consider clicking on "accept as a solution." And, please click the thumbs up icon. The two icons are below this post.

  I hope that this post helps!

• screen saver; have a screen saver password photos. As he passes, the screen goes black and stays black. What can I do?

  have a screen saver password photos.  As he passes, the screen goes black and stays black.  What can I do?

  have a screen saver password photos.  As he passes, the screen goes black and stays black.  What can I do?

  ===============================
  I don't know what is causing this problem but would be
  suspicious, it is related to a corrupted or obsolete
  video driver.

  Might be interesting to try to reduce your graphics
  Hardware acceleration instructions
  in the following article.

  How to put in back of graphics hardware acceleration
  http://www.pptfaq.com/FAQ00129_How_to_set_graphics_hardware_acceleration_back.htm
  (scroll down to: "If you are using Windows 2000 or XP")

  If they improve the question, you should look for the
  site Web of MFG. your video card
  a updated driver Win XP compatible video. Or...
  If your computer is a laptop... Search support
  site of the manufacturer of your computer.

  If you do not know the make and model of your
  Video adapter, see the documentation that
  supplied with the computer.

  Also you can find info on your video by driver
  go to Device Manager: you can launch
  By clicking Device Manager on... Start/run and
  type or copy / paste:
  devmgmt.msc
  And then press ENTER.

  Expand "Graphics cards" and right click
  the name of your graphics... then
  choose... Properties / tab pilot... FYI.

  You should find the make and model of your
  adapter display as well as the version of the driver.

  If the driver on the Web site is no longer
  current than you run...
  Download and install it. In addition, installation
  instructions that should be followed closely
  should be available on the support site.

  Once installed the new video driver... you
  can restore your full acceleration.

  Good luck...

• I forgot the admin password Windows 8 may not have passed the login screen no recovery disk

  Start the computer to the admin login screen.  You have forgotten this password and do not have a recovery disk.

  While your application may very well be authentic, it could also be interpreted as a surreptitious attempt to bypass Windows security.

  The only recommended method to retrieve an administrative password is to login as another administrator account and reset the password to a known unknown. If the administrative passwords could be easily overcome, there would not be much point in them.

  It is in the terms of use and the Code of conduct of the responses of these forums to request or provide assistance to the cracking a password. Do not forget that you agreed to these and review if necessary.

  You can view the policy of Microsoft about lost or forgotten passwords (KB189126) for more information on what resources are available to you.

  The only advice I can offer you is either log - on another user with administrator privileges and reset your password to a new, use the password reset disk that you created when you set up your account, start guessing what the password could possibly be or reinstall Windows by default.

• The Sansa View headphone jack repair

  How to fix a headphone jack for listening to Sansa View problem

  I bought a refurbished Sansa View 8 GB a while back for $60 at a hypermarket on the local computer and
  It came with a political guarantee of 60 days and 30 days of return of the store.  I liked the view better
  only the rocket and the Clip, they had for similar prices because of the larger screen.  At the time I'm not
  know that Sandisk has been gradually the support of support for new players, or about the
  others have had to problems.
  On the second day, I had the player, I noticed that the headphones were not playing both
  channels correctly, and if I shook the card he got much louder.  I could the deal and he would play
  good for awhile and then a channel would cut out randomly.  After some research, I found that
  others have had the same problem.  I tried to return it, but somehow, I had lost the hardback cover
  that describes the product and contains the chisel, and they could not return.  They would have
  I would like to swap with someone else and his sleeves to return the original unit, but they sold the
  them and never got over.  I think I was about $ 60 at that time here, so I went
  back line for further research.  I found a guy on this forum who had disassembled one, therefore, using
  his instructions (with some modifications), I took mine hand, found the bad soldering and fixed
  them.  Here's how:

  1. use a PIN or sharp knife to release the tiny connector black rubber that covers the screw
  It must be removed to open the case; It is located to the right of the usb plug (ahead of)
  Reader).  Put the CAP and the screws that you remove so later in a small Tupperware
  you do not lose them.
  2. remove the screw, with a very small phillips head of a glasses or a good game repair kit
  precision screwdrivers.
  3. the bottom right corner should now be free; Remove the plastic cover of metal
  Basic it and work slowly around the case counterclockwise, separating the nail of the thumb
  If you're going to.  You may need to use a tiny flat head to press the strips in transparent plastic
  which become visible when you move along the line of separation.  Take your time in order to not break
  no label.  Finally you get to the last tab in the lower left corner of the headphone jack.
  This is where I had my only problem.  Other blogs say to lift a lever to more
  release this tab; I found that nothing seemed to free him and after several minutes of
  soft eyes I broke something and it came loose.  I think it was super-colle in place!
  4. I didn't take away the little water that connects the encoder in the Council, because it is very
  difficult to re - install these things, so just press the cover of how to get to the screen and
  Live PC.  There are 2 tiny black screws holding the display remove them and
  equivalent it loose, leaving the attached ribbon cable again
  5. now you can see the battery; out of its niche and disconnect the 3 tiny dumb son.
  Nector and set it aside.
  6. push the lid, so you can see the 3 tiny black screws holding circuit board printed; delete
  them (the last is difficult to see, it's in the corner to the right of the headphone jack).  Equivalent
  the Platinum (the cursor for the power switch appears immediately switch).  You should now be
  looking at the empty metal casing and the display, printed circuit board and a plastic cover should
  all be loose, but still connected by two ribbon cables.  In the Tupperware you
  should have 1 small black cap, 1 small silver screw, 5 small black screws, the slider switch.
  and the battery.
  7. I now inspect the plug welds helmet, and it was very obvious that 2 of
  the legs were loose, probably because of not enough solder on them.  I warmed up a little
  flat-head screwdriver precision with a mini torch and has used and very fine electronics
  welding to weld safely.  After a thorough inspection of the other joints, I decided to leave
  alone because they looked OK.
  8. I now plugged the battery and booted up the test before I re-assembled.  Both
  channels played now, but I've always heard some static when you turn the CAP.  I have fig-
  measured, it was normal in my experience with small electronic devices, so I assembled the player
  and more broadly, tried using headphones and a cable to connect to my receiver.  He
  now worked better, but still had some problems with making good contact.  Now at least I can
  He lay and he will play both channels indefinitely.  I think that the problem is related to the
  bad quality of decision-making.
  9. I'm going to use it at work for a while with my powered speaker system and see how it
  works.  In the future I will try to clean the plug with the electronic device, and if that does not work
  help can I go back in and try a few welding more or contacts inside making bending.
  Worst case I might have to find a plug of new, high quality and weld them, hoping that I don't fry
  whatever it is the heat.

  So repair all taken only an hour (excluding research).  I now have the confidence to
  Difficulty everything that can go wrong in the future.  I could swap the battery in 10 minutes and I
  hear they are only about $20, so I could keep this thing going for years.  I went from $ 60
  brick for a machine that could last a long time.  I wouldn't buy a Sansa View,.
  But if you have already, I sincerely hope that this information will help to...

  It's my last update to my problem of current headphones.  The view is now fixed; Although having a few changes

  appearance.  It now sports an inch and one-quarter long cast taken helmet hanging out where the taking of origin to reside.  You can laugh now, but not for too long, because this thing is perfect now!  The repair is also robust enough to

  Use it as a portable device (carry in your pocket or other) without worrying too ripped loose.

  Here's how I did it:

  After disassembly, I unsolder the old jack, carefully lift one corner at a time, until all 6 solder joints were loose.  The

  2 front and 2 rear tabs are on enveloping metal clips which can be removed separately.  The old jack appears just out of it

  slot in the jury.  Earlier, I bought an extension of 3.5 mm headset (with volume control, $8.99, p/n 4202559) from Radio Shack, just because it was the smallest molded into the store.  They had one for $2.49, what was right, but it was twice as big, so I spent the extra bucks because he must fit into the original hole.  I now have it cut and stripped the wires, leaving only an inch of thread on the new socket.  Then I soldered the 3 wires in their appropriate places, as

  as a result;  looking at the top of the Board, with the power switch facing you, you have 6 contacts arranged like this.

  : the 2 middle are positive of left and right, top left (ground) common to both channels. The others are only to secure the plug to the Board of Directors.   After brazing firmly the son I just put all together. the ribs on the molded strain relief perfectly nested within the original hole in the case, then it will not easily get out but retains some flexibility.  The only problem I see is that the case is not quite keep hanging down in that corner more, but that could easily be corrected by a small drop of super glue.  I'll do it later if it seems that the case is in danger of seperating

  or if the wire pulls.  I have also considered the fill area with hot melt glue, but who could do a more difficult future repair.  I think that super glue will be the best and is still to open again if you only use a microdot of glue.

  So after all this pain and suffering, I finally a player, maybe I can use for years to come.  Total cost:

  Given to nine Sansa View 8 GB... $60.00

  RadioShack 3.5 mm ext. p/n 4202559... $9.00

  Duracell Micro SD card 8GB... $20.00

  Total .........................................................................$89.00

  Of course, I could buy a 16 brand new notice of GB for that price, with one year warranty!  Well, NOW you can laugh,

  as long as you want!  But wait a minute, I would have just the same problem with a new, a week or a month

  After the purchase?  Then I could send it to Sandisk for RMA and after paying for delivery, and in the meantime maybe a month to get him back, I would have another new view to manhandle.  So a year later, after the replacement of my 3rd or 4th, the guarantee was due to expire, and I do repair above on it to make it work, having had the use of the thing for only 6 months of the first year, what with shipment will remind it so many times!  So maybe my path is correct. at least I use throughout the day now, and I'll NEVER have to send anywhere.

  The moral of this story is: don't out cheap if you want a decent PMP - spend $150-200 for a Samsung P3 or a

  Cowon S3; both have video and excellent sound and can read files DivX 800 x 600 without conversion, have tactile and menus screens customizable, not to mention the bigger screens.  If you just need to play music, there are a myriad

  players good markets that are simple and almost indestructible and if you lose or break will be a much less expensive than lesson

  that I've learned.

• I'm a fool - recovery mode. Tried the sansa.fmt folder, but does not work... Help, please!

  My buddy gave me his sansa used for a Christmas gift.  I loved.  They when I delete his old songs that I deleted the other folders on it as well (pictures, records, etc.)  basically everything except the music files.  Now, when I turn it on, it says "cannot load the main image.  switch to recovery mode.  I browsed the forums and tried to make the sansa.fmt folder (it formatted) but still does not work.  I can't find the stuff I deleted from the Recycle Bin.

  Thank you in advance and happy holidays.

  It's Christmas time.  Santa has something cool in his bag, I'm sure.  We will first check the device to version 1.

  When he started upward, you saw just the SanDisk logo with sunburst on the splash screen?  I just want to be sure that your e200 is not a Rhapsody Sansa, because this version has different firmware.  R has a Rhapsody splash screen after the initial one.

  You've seen how to connect in Recovery Mode, Yes?  Start with the e200 decommissioned.  Slide the HOLD switch to the right (orange showing) and hold the button depressed all REC by plugging into the USB port.  It is the easiest method of recovery mode.

  Alternatively, you can start the Recovery Mode if the REC button is held, and the power-menu button is tapped too. In both cases, welcome to the Recovery Mode is displayed.  Either incidentally, the MSD acronym on the screen refers to the "Mass Storage Device", as in MSC mode.

  A few words of caution before going any further.  Recovery mode opens the reserved partitionof the device.  Critical data are stored here.  Do NOT use the Windows format command when this partition is opened, or you will erase these critical data! Only use the sansa.fmt folder trick to tell the e200 himself format automatically.

  Download and Unzip the TWO files of firmware for your Sansa e200v1 here.  It is the 01.02.24, the final version.  Just click on the version you want for your region.  The Sansa Updater link isn't what you need.

  The two files, after him have unzipped, are pp5022.mi4 and BL_SD... ROM (mental block on the name at the moment).

  When you connect the e200 and open a window of Windows Explorer (my computer / computer), you will see a new icon, 16 MB FORMAT.  Double-click this to open reserved partition.  Do not touch the file version.txt in there and don't TRY to use the Windows Format command that appears with a right-click, bad juju.

  Let's go Happy window. Drag the first window to a convenient size, and the other with your firmware files can be placed on the desktop.  Now for the magic!  Simply drag and drop these two firmware files on in the open window that represents the reserved partition.  Cool huh?  Easier to make the ratio of rum and eggnog just right.

  Now, if there are a bunch of gibberish stored on the device, and you want to start with a clean slate, you can tell the e200 to format the primary partition (where music, videos and photos are) automatically.  Click right while in the 16MB FORMAT box and select new folder.  RENAME it sansa.fmtfolder and the Sansa will follow this command after installing the firmware.

  Go to the task bar at the bottom of the screen and click the command remove device or eject the disc.  Again, WIndows like formatting of devices, it of eject you want, do not fit!

  Unplug, and restore your e200!  Slide the HOLD switch to the left.

  Let me know how it goes, since the Bobster has other tricks in the bag.  This one should do the trick.

  Oh, I forgot.  You're not a fool.

  Bob

• My computer does not load past the Bios Dell screen

  Vista 32 bit Home Premium on Vostro 200
  Hey, my name is Christian and this is my problem:

  It all started last night when I (stupidly) decided I should change my screen windows open, you know, black screen, where the green bar would float through from left to right while the computer responsible. I decided to change to a sort of landscape of Lake, but this is not the point.
  Before that, I chose at the next restart, the registry would be defragged and there would be controls memory.
  I am so down and restart the computer.
  Computer turns on and I the landscape to the instead, loading screen unless it's just a picture, so there is not move bar telling me whether or not the computer was loading.
  And the screen just wouldn't change. I assumed that defragments the registry and memory check took place, but I was rather paranoid about whether or not something is going on I turned manually the computer off hold the button down.
  I turned it back again and he went to the same - screen landscape and would not pass as usual. Paranoia took ahold of me and I turned it off once again. I did it a couple of times (and I apologize) until a system repair came automatically.
  I thought it was my way out of this problem, but it didn't really fix anything, and the screen landscape had changed now in a black screen which seems to have a background image screen to vista aurora discoloration in the Center.
  And it's right now. It does not seem to go beyond that and I think now that it was all due to the change in the loading screens.

  I even left on overnight assuming the scans took place and it would be frozen until the tests were performed.
  Nothing has changed.

  I tried the obvious; safe mode does not work exactly. I click on it and all I get is the names of the drivers being loaded then a very slow black line through every driver leading one by one.

  Unfortunately, I deleted the backups of my restore system checks an hour before this happened and I did a lot of memory by pressing F8 and choose the option.

  I'd even do a factory reset as long as I've had all my files and drivers on a hard drive.

  I don't know what to do, I am completely distraught. Any advice would be helpful and thanks in advance!
  (a factory reset would be VERY VERY last resort)

  Christian.

  Hello

  as safe mode does not do a start-up repair disc

  the link below is how to download and get a vista disk startup repair, which you can start from the

  http://NeoSmart.net/blog/2008/Windows-Vista-recovery-disc-download/

  Here's how to use startup repair system restore command prompt, etc. to bleepingcomputers link below

  http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/tutorial148.html

  to boot from the dvd drive to be able to you will see a way to get into the bios Setup at the bottom of the screen or command menu start

  It would be F2 or delete etc to enter the BIOS or F12 etc. for the start menu

  Change boot order it do dvd drive 1st in the boot order

  http://helpdeskgeek.com/how-to/change-boot-order-XP-Vista/

  If it does not here's how to save your data

  1. remove the hard drive and it slave in another computer

  2 buy or borrow a USB disk drive hard put in yout case then plug it into another computer and read the hard drive like this

  3. try Knoppix

  http://www.Knopper.NET/Knoppix/index-en.html

  BUT this method depends on your hardware in the computer that failed!

  and how to reinstall vista

  using dell dvd

  http://supportapj.Dell.com/support/topics/global.aspx/support/DSN/en/document?journalid=67E9C215C4BABD6CE040AE0AB5E14F05&docid=339949

  using the dell recovery partition

  http://supportapj.Dell.com/support/topics/global.aspx/support/DSN/en/document?journalid=67E9C215C4BABD6CE040AE0AB5E14F05&docid=336966

• 1st generation ATV dead. Orange light but no screen and no resetting of distance.  I tried direct connection to Mac and iTunes open and he's not here.  Is it possible to restore to the factory without screen or remote work

  1st generation Apple TV is dead. Orange light but no screen and no resetting of distance. I tried direct connection to Mac and iTunes open and he's not here. Is it possible to restore to the factory without screen or remote workin

  I guess you tried maintained low men together for about 6 seconds - silver 1 ATV that will restart to the diagnostic partition but who would rely on the hard disk is functional and if it was ok that wouldn't work with the logic board failure.

  I guess you have not fed and attempted to restart.

  In case your AppleTV think it is paired with another remote try Menu and left arrow for 6 seconds - the light now intervenes when you press the buttons on the remote?

  Also, it could be in the video mode bad - try Menu and upward arrow together for 6 CES switch video modes, but implies that he actually started OK.

• Envy touchsmart 15: blocked at the HP loading screen

  My phone is stuck at the HP loading screen and won't go further. I tried the reset hard twice and continues to be in a loop of loading. I tested the hard DST short test and it passed. One thing I feel that I want to emphasize is that, when I try to test other components such as the CPU and memory, they freeze to test it screens and progress, not even after the scheduled time.
  
  I would like some feedback as soon as POSSIBLE, I need this PC for assignments etc., thanks in advance.

  Hey @Artif,

  You could try it, I recommend the creation of a USB repair for Windows 10. That will be the same no matter. You can try some suggestions on this page from Microsoft.

  Thank you.