EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM

Similar Questions

• Why canon 100-400mm fucos not good lens

  Why objective canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6l usm fucos not well when I take wild birds, the lens just in and out when I fucos with the subject and take a picture, I try a lot of adjustment, but the problem still not solved, the lens is used from adorama tv, the camera is canon70d up, my other two canon lens works very well with my camera Thanks for any help.

  Some of the parameters that could shake your shots are:

  • Number of AF Points - manually by selecting just the central point is simpler to draw
  • Shooting mode - "One Shot" mode is easier to use for most of the scenarios.
  • Focus lens mode - your lens must have settings to adjust the focus of the distance to the subject.
  • Image stabilization - your lens must have parameters to refine the IS.

  One or all of these settings may affect the focus in your images.  What settings are you using?  How far is your subjecgt?  What focal length you are trying to use?  You use a tripod, or handheld?  What are your exposure settings?

• Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L not as strong as mycanon account EF 100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6L USM IS

  Hi can't seem to get a strong an image with my 70-200 that I can with my 100-400 mm. should I get equally sharp photos with two glasses. I still have a warranty with best buy.

  What are your shooting conditions?  If you were less than 1/400 or the IS on the 100-400 could make a significant difference.  Try a controlled test, on a tripod, same settings, IS off.

• Wie fuge ich neue objectives in die Objektivkorrekturen in LR 5.7 ein?

  Wie kann ich neue objectives z.B. das Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM II in Objektivkorrekturen in Lightroom 5.7 einfügen die?

  Hi katrinh,

  This goal was first supported by Lightroom 6.0.

  

  Kind regards.

  Assani

• Canon EF400mm versus Canon EF100 - 400mm F4-f5.6. 5 F5. 6

  Hi people

  Having attended the MotoGP at Valalencia last week and using my 7 d with a 70-200 mm with 1.4 extender. I realized I need a longer lens for such events.  I was wondering what the objective would be better, that is to say the sharpness.  I know that the 100-400mm has the advantage of the zoom, but I don't want to lose the image quality if I can help it.

  John

  This topic has been debated several times in two photography on the Net (POTN) and Fred Miranda (FM) for years with no clear winner. I suggest that you forget about choosing one or the other based on IQ only under ideal circumstances. You won't see the difference in what you're doing unless you have very good skills in pan. The first is slightly sharper, but then what? It limits what you can shoot because you can't keep changing position if you miss opportunities, some of which may be that 'money shot'. I shoot another form of action, and based on the expectations of those who look at a motorsports photos I strongly suspect that the ideal photos will have enough shutter speeds blurred wheels (or rays) slow & background but a rider & bike it very crunchy. Comply with these requirements will void all difference between the 2 lenses IQ wise 99% of the time.

  For my needs, the first (ANY first) would be unnecessary, even if I have them for free, and I rely on the lenses, considered less than ideal by most because they superzooms, BUT they do the job, & well. They may have the best IQ but they do get vaccinated and do it consistantly. Remember this isn't just the lens that captures the shot, it is the combination of the lens, the body, to know how to set variables in the body, and your ability to pan perfectly or hold it steady enough. One of these blow a little bit & the IQ is now less than what was possible when exacuted perfectly. You're shooting stationary no runners a tripod at a fixed distance throughout the day so consider all the variables of your previous trips to the track before buying.

• Problem with 400mm 5.6 L clarity

  Image tests my 400mm 5.6 L is much less strong than my new 100-400mm lens. The only thing I can think of that would have harmed the 400 was condensaton in the body of the temperature changes. Shots are all tribod and cable triggered. No filter on either lens. Of course it's cropped way. Any ideas? The 400 is around the age of 9 months. Can be cleaned internally?

  

  The top picture looks like PHEW, so in this case there is no way of knowing whether the goal is 'pointed'. You were perhaps too narrow?

• What lens for all around wildlife?

  Hi, I'm new here. I shoot with an EOS 6 d and photo anything birds in flight to rattlesnake coiled on the ground. I'm looking for a good lens versatile and heavy leaning to the EF 100-400mm F4. 5-5.6 L IS II USM.  I also usually do not use my tripod, preferring to move and shoot like I will. Thoughts on this subject, or recommendations for a better option?

  Bamps0 wrote:

  Hi, I'm new here. I shoot with an EOS 6 d and photo anything birds in flight to rattlesnake coiled on the ground. I'm looking for a good lens versatile and heavy leaning to the EF 100-400mm F4. 5-5.6 L IS II USM.  I also usually do not use my tripod, preferring to move and shoot like I will. Thoughts on this subject, or recommendations for a better option?

  The EF 100-400mm F4. 5 - 5.6 L IS II USM is a great choice!

• Macro + telephoto?

  Questions first then bottom.

  Sigma f/2.8 150 mm macro with a 1.4 teleconverter OS x will provide me with close IQ than a nice 2.8 70-200 mm telephoto? (so I can buy a gem, but which is easier to sell to my wife) or I really have to choose between telephoto OR macro?

  If I get a 1.4 x teleconverter, I should get the Sigma one or I could get equivalent QI pro300 kenko (which would then allow to be used with a future purchase as a Canon 100-400mm).

  Background:

  I'm looking to make my first expensive lens to buy.  I am relatively new to photography (10 months) but took many photos and maybe even climb.

  I love and tend to take snaps for most wildlife and macro.  I bought a doublet close-up filter which is great for static elements (spiders in webs, etc.) but would like a true macro lens that can always capture capricious insects such as dragonflies.  I would say that 90% of all of my photos are taken at 250mm on my goal of 55-259.  I'd love to take sharper photos than my current goal is possible.

  I was leaning towards the macro Sigma 150 mm OS for its image stabilization and long lens for bugs and hoping that it could double for a telephoto lens in particular, if I add a 1.4 x teleconverter.  (which, at 210mm would make me close my current 250 mm)

  I rented this lens Sigma and sigma 1.4 TC to go with her for a weekend and was happy with my mothering of results.

  I probably eventually get a long telephoto lens (I think probably the Canon 100-400mm), and my other dear goal will probably be 15-85 or 17-55 2.8 canons.

  Thanks for any adivce or thoughts!

  Click here to see the images next to the Sigma 150 vs almost no matter what other purpose under the Sun. It is the site of digital photography, which I really love.

  http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/ISO-12233-sample-crops.aspx?lens=807&camera=453&sample=0&...

  If the link doesn't work, or if you want to play with the different lenses, remember this: to see a lens WITH a TELECONVERTER simply select a focal length longer than the max for the lens, and if they have it, it will automatically show you the image with the mounted TC.

  Acceptable image quality is in the eye of the beholder. Judge for yourself.

  Good luck!

• What equipment for rent for a cruise to Alaska, with an excursion to the National Park of Katmai

  We expect a cruisetour in Alaska to summer 2014. I was wondering what material would be preferable to rent for the trip. I'm at best a total frame when it comes to photography. We go to the Chio for seven days and then go to the National Park of Danel and also to the National Park of Katmai. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Thank you. George

  Alaska is a rich state of target to fire a few shots really breathtaking.  But, be careful.  YOU will not be at the top of the food chain.  This place is firmly fixed by the polar bear.  You don't want to get closer to these guys here.  If you go for bears, considered a long lens you can get.  The absolute minimum would be a 100-400mm zoom.  In Alaska, is also home to some very large Grizzly, these guys is not outdone either.  For the beautiful panaramas you can invest in a goal of ultra wide angle, like the EF-S 10-22 mm.  There is no, but you can get some photos wide-angle breathtaking from the faithful tripod.  In addition, the 10-22 gets rave reviews of the quality of the image of some of the major reviewers, Ken Rockwell, give quality control 'L '.  I wouldn't spend the extra money on a 70-200 f2.8L IS USM EF.  It is a big heavy lens.  But I would opt for the EF 70-200 f4L IS USM, it is much lighter and a IS good and easy to sling autour on Eagles.  You can't mention what you have now the lenses, but a good mid-range telephoto would be good to have for the trip.  Pictures taken from the cruise ship should be held in the hand, due to the vibration of the ship will pass through on the tripod.  So, no matter what lens you shoot with the ship should have IS, otherwise you will have to perhaps up your ISO to 1000 or more and shoot at a high shutter speed to prevent motion blur.  This mid-range telephoto, you want to watch may be the EF 24-105 f4L IS USM or EF 24-70 f4L IS USM, two are at a reasonable price and quality Canon L lenses.  These lenses, I have proposed will satisfy all your needs for your trip, with the highest quality for your camera lenses.  I suggest that buy you a 7 d renovated to upgrade your camera body.  The 7 d is the best device of wildlife available now.  You can get one from Adorama, now on a special renovated cannon.  You can also buy the renovated Adorama and B & H and even lenses used from KEH and save a good sum of money.

  Enjoy your trip.

• problem of update automatic teleconverter 1.4 x iii

  my 100-400 ii will be not autofocus with an iii 1. 4 x on a 70 d EOS.  When I install the focal length multiplier, the camera switches automatically to the Servo AF to Focus M.

  Solutions?

  jsfarnsw wrote:

  Thank you all.  I did not know that the AF systems require a lot of light to work properly.

  AF light enough to work reasonably needs fast and reliable.

  Do a search on the internet on the teleconverters and paste some of the contacts. This "crazy" the camera in not realizing the converter is there, while he will always try to AF lens. Do not focus to perform very well. It will be slower and in lower light situations, or with low contrast subjects he may hunt a lot and even fail to achieve focus. There's a reason Canon sets a limit and it turns off, when a combo of lens/focal length multiplier is greater than the rated capacity of AF.

  You will need to find a site where a person shows what pins on the Strip upwards. I did do the Ribbon trick myself... I simpy don't bother with TCs on lenses where it would exceed levels of brightness, or in some cases I just manually focus (500/4 with a 2 X on this subject, for example).

  7 5 d Mark II (not the original), 5 d Mark III (no II or original), all the 1-series (film and digital) and film EOS-3 cameras are "capable f8", which means that they can still AF (especially with a center-point AF only...) 5DIII can use a small point in the center group I think) when a lens + TC for a f8 or greater openness. All other Canon cameras, including 70 d are "capable f5.6.

  The 100-400mm is f4.5 - 5.6 already... so adding even a smaller 1.4 X, made for a combo f6.3 - f8 that exceeds the capabilities of your camera design. But some people manage to make it work to some extent with some small, carefully placed pieces of Scotch!

  Note: There are some third party lenses which are f6.3 even without any TC still AF... probably by "cheating" even the camera.

  ***********

  Alan Myers
  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

• Should I spend an EFS 18-55mm on a Canon EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM for landscapes? With the help of a Rebel T3i

  Only done photography for about a year. Wife bought me a Rebel T3i Kit with two Lenes. I'm really into photography outdoor. I installed myEFS 55-250 in a series of 100-400mm L I was going to buy a better lens for landscape and try to keep less than $1000. I think EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM. Better landscapes or is there a better choce range of price thanks

  I would not recommend the EF 17-40mm for your T3i. The EF 17-40mm is really designed to be used as a goal of the ultra wide angle on Full Frame cameras. One of the major is the lack of IS. (Image stabilization)

  For a camera of culture as the T3i, I recommend:

  Lens EF - S 18-55mm IS STM (very good upgrade to the 18-55 kit lens)

  Lens EF - S 18-135mm IS STM

  EF-S 15-85mm IS lens

  EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS lens

  EF-S 10-22mm (without IS, but Ultra-Wide) lens

• Canon 6 d and that compatible lenses?

  I recently sold all my equipment Nikon together for various reasons.  I'll buy the Canon 6 d when it comes out next month.

  I live in the Japan and it is currently listed as a kit: EOS 6 d EF24 - 105L IS USM.  I want a 18-200 and hope that Canon fits Nikon and goes out with a 18-300 soon.  When I search contacts, what code number should I look to be sure it is 100% compatible with the 6 d.

  Is this the 'EF', 'IS' or 'USM' in the part number I need to make sure that is always in a lens that is 100% compatible with the 6 d.

  scout

  * Beginner cannon *.

  Hello from Tokyo

  The 6 d AF limited compared to 5-3 and a lot of Nikon, I advise you to try it before you buy.

  "EF" means full frame, this is the only important to you. Do not buy one that says "EF - S" it's APS - C only sencor. All EF will be 100% compatible.

  'IS' is stabilized and 'USM' is fast AF, they are irelevant in terms of compatible or not.

  You will find 18-200 on sensors full frame as the 6 d. The standard zooms are more like the 24-105 you have selected. If you want a zoom and the size is very large, the 24-105 or the new 24-70 is a good choice.

  Overall, I'm not sure why buy a camera full frame and use it with a single zoom dark. You will lose the benefit of the large sensor. At least, I recommend you buy a 50mm 1.8, as well as your body and play with him (it is 8000 JPY in Kakaku.com).

  My advise is to try different lenses before settle you on a total of this pelases you. Usually people spend 2/3 of the budget on lentils, 1/3 only on the body, because the pictures you make depends more on the lenses. A lens can not do it all very well.

  Concerning

  Alain

• I am currently deciding between 100-400 f 4, 5-5, 6, 400mm f 5.6 premium and the 300mm f4 lens.

  Currently I have a 70-200l f4 lens and want to buy an extra lens which would give me more range. I am considering the three I mentioned above, but am favoring the 300mm f4 Prime right now. I'd appreciate any feedback anyone can offer about these lenses or other recommendations.

  Thank you!

  Thanks for the tips, I ended up buying the 70-300L lens. I agree with you on the issue of only being able to afford both of these lenses. I was really happy with my decision to buy this one.

  Thanks, Ron

• Toshiba 50L 4333 imposible to mount 100% vertical

  I bought a 4333 50L model.

  This model has a design problem that makes it impossible to mount 100% vertical.
  Due to its unbalanced weight TV drops to about 5 degrees compared to its front.

  Do you have a solution for this?

  I guess you don t use very good wall unit.
  To 50 aircraft at least standard VESA 400 x 400mm (100kg) of wall LCD you use.

• I have someone just showed about 100 pictures of my iPad. Now, the pictures are missing, and the "recently deleted" folder is also empty. What can I do?

  I have someone just showed about 100 pictures of my iPad. Now, the pictures are missing, and the "recently deleted" folder is also empty. What can I do?

  Have you done something after their show.