Focusing with 5 d Mark III problem

Similar Questions

• Back button with a focus for 5 d Mark III. How do I put in place?

  How can I configure button back focusing on my new 5 d Mark III.  Can not find the instructions manual supplied Canon or third book.

  http://www.courtneysargent.com/for-photographers-setting-up-back-button-focus-on-the-5d-Mark-III/

• Convert to DNG does not work with 5 d mark III bridge

  I use CS6 and the "convert to DNG" option does not work when I download my Canon 5 d Mark III files, but it works with my 5 d Mark II files. " HOW can I get it works. I had to convert using the DNG Converter.

  8.7.1 ACR update and you won't have to convert to DNG at all. 8.7.1 DNG converter also supports the Mark 3.

• 5 new noise of 1 d Mark III everywhere

  All started to shoot with my new Mark III and I am shocked by the noise, throughout my shots. He was just testing "go outside and shoot.  Most f11 ISO 100 shooting raw. I had a 5 d that I traded and have a lot of plans to compare with. I think I have some setting wrong or something. Can anyone help?

  OK, so the polarizer is responsible for dropping the light of the best part of 2 stops.  It makes more sense.

  I don't have Lightroom, but I wonder if you can browse the image RAW Canon Digital Photo Professional (it came with your camera) and let us know what he looks like.

• problem shooting with pc and Canon 5 d Mark III captive

  I have an Asus laptop (windows 10) with usb SS and Lightroom 2015 5.1 with creative cloud

  I connect my camera (Canon 5 d Mark III) with cable for canon, but during the may shooting time, the image will be not successful on PC, camera gives message cause 'busy' cannot transfer the photo.

  I reset all the 'camera '. PC... Maps... "ecc. ECC.  I try to use another cable... but the same situation! 1,2,3 shot is ok,... and later... give transfer problem.

  What problem is?

  -compatibility Canon 5 d mark III with Lightroom?

  -the gun cable is not able to transfer Hi image format? (Raw image)

  -10 windows?

  Please help me! :-)

  Hi deaweb,

  Please upgrade to the latest version of Lightroom CC 2015.6

  Make sure that your camera is connected via the 'PC connection' in the Communication tab.

  Also note that for 5 d Mark III, a card must be in the camera for attachment to work properly.

  See the difficulty of shooting tethered in Lightroom and let us know if this helps.

  Kind regards

  Assani

• 5 D Mark III video problem - need help!

  Hello

  Been using my 5 d Mark III for video for about a month now. I noticed a problem occurring in the middle of some plans where the color seems to pass. The problem is so weak that it will take full screen, full HD and a high level of concentration to detect. In my opinion, the most obvious presence is 28 seconds where the valley below suddenly takes a different color. Here is a video of my question: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw9IHYkUEqQ

  I performed these parameters:

  Manual focus

  Opening, ISO: Manually set

  Shutter speed: 1/50

  1920 x 1080 EVERYTHING I have 24 p

  Photo Style: faithful

  Custom white balance

  Auto Lighting Optimizer: OFF

  Highlight priority: OFF

  Speed High ISO NR: OFF

  I tried to see if they were detectable on the LCD on the camera, but to the naked eye, they are not. The original. Show them the MOV files that were transferred from the camera.

  Maybe that Chromatic Aberration or the peripheral illumination Correction? I did not disable these, and they are the only automatic settings I can think that would change Mid-shot.

  In my view, what ISO was set at 100 for these plans.

  Any ideas what could be causing this? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

  Thank you

  Max

  I tested it on multiple devices, and it seems that there is a problem with my primary monitor. I will definitely test it next time I have a problem on multiple devices. Thanks for all the help!

• 6 of Lightroom cannot read my Canon 5 d Mark III photo files, the import message I received: the following files were not imported because they could not be read. I use the same camera that I used Lightroom 5 with the same cards Compact flash.

  6 of Lightroom cannot read my Canon 5 d Mark III photo files, the import message I received: the following files were not imported because they could not be read. I use the same camera that I used Lightroom 5 with the same cards Compact flash. The files are: DK5A0243. CR2

  Lightroom 6 trying to copy pictures to a different directory than what is Lightroom 5. That's why you have the problem.

  You can change the directory where you are teaching LR 6 to place photos, or change the permissions on this directory to read & write.

• I can not open with CS 5.1 RAW files that I took on a Canon 5 d Mark iii

  I just got a Canon 5 d Mark iii camera and I always shoot in Raw. I downloaded them on my computer and when I went to open them in Photoshop CS 5.1 it tells me it is not supported by the installed version of Camera Raw. I tried to do an update and it still does not work. I'm helpless as to where I start. Can someone please help me with this?

  Make sure you have ACR installed 6.7 it may open with her.

  Devices supported by Adobe Camera Raw

  EOS - 5 d Mark III

  CR2

  6.7, 7.1

  4.1

  Adobe - Photoshop: For Windows

  Adobe - Photoshop: For Macintosh

• DVD burning problem: I burn the movie on widescreen PAL on a DVD-R disc. I managed it burned without menu. Now, I've added a "Pan and Zoom" menu with a main marker at 00:00:00:00, 21 scene markers, and a stop at 01:29:32:17 (th

  DVD burning problem: I burn the movie on widescreen PAL on a DVD-R disc. I managed it burned without menu. I have now added a "Pan and Zoom" menu with a main marker at 00:00:00:00, 21 scene markers and a cleat to 01:29:32:17 (the end of the film). The combustion is interrupted with a message to watch a C:\Users\ianle_000\Documents\20151206160446.iso file. There is no file. The message also provides a link for an explanation. This Web page is impossible to obtain. I'm running on a PC with Windows 8.1.

  Thank you once again. I burned the DVD!

  It is the first film for which I have reached the stage of burning. I'm not sure why she didn't in the first place. I tried to burn the "no menu" version, but at the time, was shot the DVD itself - I wonder when he reached this point?

  So, I burned the "no menu" version to another DVD, that worked, then the version of menu, with no cleat to a third DVD, which reads perfectly.

  Now that I have a successful routine, I'll stick to it.

  Thanks for all your help.

  I'll close this discussion now.

• I recently updated the Canon mark II to the mark iii, and the images taken of the mark iii will not make previews in bridge. Bridge will show previews for the images taken with the mark ii, but not the mark iii. I have adobe cc and use

  recently updated the Canon mark II, mark iii, and the images taken of the mark iii will not make previews in bridge. Bridge will show previews for the images taken with the mark ii, but not the mark iii. I have adobe cc and am using camera raw 9.2. I checked the updates and it is said that there is not. I also tried to purge the cache several times and that didn't work either. Any help with this would be so appreciated its driving me crazy!

  Take a look at this: generic icons | Files camera raw | Adobe Bridge

• 5 d Mark III DIM Raw images CS6 import problems

  I have Photoshop file format error-30504 45::35 when you attempt to import RAW images from 5 d mark III.  Tried an images and image sequences.  Names of files as IMGS1784. CR2

  Have you updated your ACR? MK III support requires 7.1, installing by dΘfaut only comes with 7.0

  Mylenium

• Will be Canon 5 d Mark III Raw files work with Lightroom 3

  I just tried to download the Raw files from a Canon 5 d Mark III to Lightroom 3.  The file have not been recognized.  According to me, there were a few problems update, but my Lightroom 3 is updated.  I need Lightroom 4?  I need to know that I have a meeting tomorrow and will go back to my Mrk II if I can't get an update of Lightroom 3 emergency.

  Title of the message was edited by: Brett N

  The latest version of LR3 has been updated in last December, and the 5D.3 is more recent than that, then Yes you need LR4.

  You can download the trial LR4 (or just the update 4.1 www.adobe.come/downloads/updates/ LR) and have 30 days before you need to purchase and enter a serial number.

  The other choice is to use the 7.1 to DNG Converter that knows your new camera, but allows the converted DNG open in LR3.

• Canon 5 d Mark III RAW problem

  Hi guys. My version of the LR5 ceased to recognize the RAW files from my Canon 5 d Mark III on import - ideas? Cheers - Tom

  You try to import directly from the camera or a card reader? Direct the camera setting was known to be a bit flaky, so if you do this try a card reader instead.

• CS5 Raw with Canon 5 d Mark III and Canon 6 d

  I have CS5.  Recently, I upgraded my 5 d Mark II to a 5 d Mark III.  I also have a 6 d.  I can't open my pictures in RAW.  Am I forced to buy CS6?

  Hello

  You should be able to open the Canon 5 d Mark III of files in photoshop cs5 update to camera raw 6.7

  (Help > updates in photoshop cs5)

  For the Canon 6 d, the 8.1 DNG Converter should work by converting your files 6 d camera raw to DNG

  copies, which should then open in photoshop cs5.

  Mac:

  http://www.Adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5596

  WndOws:

  http://www.Adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5597

• 5 D Mark iii

  I'm a new 5 5 d Mark iii owner.   I am wanting to get good shots of my nephew play basketball.  Any suggestions on preferred to get clear shots.  Thank you!

  Here is a description of how to get your camera in a mode where it is optimized for basketball.  But before you go shoot a... practice game get all these settings dialed in and go do some shooting test for you ensure that you are comfortable with the way it all works.  If you want to learn the game you might lack-shots more simply because you are not yet used to the works of the camera when shooting sports.

  IS owning an EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM II will certainly help (if you do not have the one of them already, put it on your wish list.  Everyone has this lens... or wants this goal.  It is not even of importance if you pull the sport - it is the goal of goto used by a lot of wedding and portrait photographers, and it is also the goal for indoor sports such as basketball.)  I have the original (version I) of this lens and it is the lens that lives on my camera all the time.

  You probably want to use mode AF 6 cases (this is the recommended Canon for basketball - auto focus tracking mode although they also offer 4 cases).

  Since you specifically want to follow your nephew and do not pull on any player, you might want to settle out of the 'sensibility' - this features determines how much the camera prefer to stick to a single topic vs pass and start tracking on a different topic.  The default value of the 6A box followed the sensitivity in the Middle at the level of the marker "0".    If you want the camera to stick to your subject and not be so willing to move to a new topic then you might want to disable tune elsewhere up to-1.   To do this:

  1. Press MENU
  2. Go to page 1 (of 5 possible pages of AF settings in the system menu) FA
  3. Access to the rear of select respectively 6 (the last case on the list), then press the SET button to select.
  4. Press RATE button to allow a custom setting.
  5. Use the back line to select "Tracking Sensitivity" (top choice - it can be highlighted by default because it is the first choice) and press SET to select.
  6. Use the rear wheel - and turn it in the opposite direction with a click to '-1' (to facilitate your stay ' locked on ' more 'reactive' - sensitive would cause him to jumpt to a new material more easily).  Press SET to lock in this change.
  7. Press MENU repeatedly to exit the menu system.

  Then activate the "AI Servo" - the default mode is the mode of the development of 'One Shot'.  In One Shot mode, the camera will activate focus when you half-press the shutter button... but once he realizes the development on a topic, the system turns off and await you take the picture.  Unfortunately in the sport, that your subjects are constantly in motion... so if you take this shot the camera focus on the place where the player USED TO BE and not where they are now.

  When you use the "AI Servo" mode, the camera will continuously follow focus so that the player moves.

  Press the 'AF-Drive' button on top of the camera.

  Use the front dial to mode selection "HAVE Servo".

  Use the back line to select "high-speed" burst (it looks like a stack of 3 rectangles with an 'H' beside it.)

  Then, put the camera in the correct AF point selection mode.

  Press the button of the AF point selection.  It is the button in the extreme upper right corner on the back.  The icon looks like a rectangle with a pattern of cross in the shape of points in there (these are intended to resemble talking points.)

  When the AF point selection menu is displayed on the back of the camera, press the M - Fn button (next to the shutter button on the top front of the camera) and this will cause its making scroll all the AF point selection modes available.  Mode "Auto selection: 61 pt AF" (which means the camera can use ANY point he wants.

  One caveat... If for some reason you cannot take this mode... There is a menu that allows you to toggle modes.  If there is a way you think that you'd never use (some photographers simply toggle between two modes favorite all the time), you can turn off the ones you don't use.  If you have done this, then the mode you use could be disabled and you will need to reactivate this mode.)

  NOW you are ready to shoot... but there are two caveats more you need to know.

  #1 when you use the update of "AI Servo" mode, the unit also uses a behavior called "release priority".  Normally, your camera is in 'One Shot mode "that uses"Priority Focus"and that means that the camera will not take a shot until it can confirm a focus lock.  But in "Release priority" behavior the camera WILL TAKE the shot as SOON as you press the shutter button (shutter reelease) all down... and they're going to do it whether OR NOT IT WAS CENTERED!  If you need to make sure that the device locked focus and keeps track of your subject before press you the button completely or you will get just a lot of blurry photos.

  #2--while the camera CAN use a 61 point AF in this mode... you will notice that when you put the viewfinder of the camera to your eye and half-press the shutter release button that you do not see a point AF (black square).  This is the point where the camera guess he'll START tracking your subject.  But since you have an automatic case followed enabled, it will "follow" your subject moving.  If you lose the subject, you must give this starting point on your topic to gain focus again on them.    BTW, you can choose any desired starting point.  As you look through the viewfinder, place your thumb on the browser of 8 channels (the small joystick controlled by your thumb just above the line back) and you will see you can rock up, down, left, right, etc. and the black square will go where you want (well... one of the 61 points AF.)

  Don't be afraid to crank the ISO... the 5 d III can take it.  I think nothing of shooting at ISO 3200 and 6400 ISO same... While there is a bit of noise at ISO 6400, it is EASILY treated in post processing because it's going to be noise rather moderate.

  Since you want to freeze action (you won't see the motion blur on your subjects) you'll want to keep the high shutter speed.

  1/500th sec is generally fast enough to freeze most of the topics, but you might see * some * blur of movement at that speed... He sneak a little higher upward will be useful (e.g. 1/800th or even 1/1000th).

  I second the recommendation to pull using Tv mode and set the shutter speed to 1/800th and use Auto ISO.   But... check the menu system for camera red page 2 (camera red tab... page 2 of 4 possible pages).  There is a 'ISO speed settings' option in this menu.  Please select this option and check "Auto ISO range".  I think it will be set to '100-12800' by default and that's fine.  But it is possible to reduce it... photographers who never want to shoot any ISO above at some point (for example assume that you never leave the Auto ISO to choose a frame above 1600) could set it to a low value that is too high for your interior lighting of basketball.   Just make sure that the camera is not permitted to mount the ISO when it should.

  Adobe Lightroom has an option of noise reduction very good (which is strange because the noise reduction in Photoshop is a dismal failure.  If you use Photoshop full I rely on a plugin noise reduction called 'Noiseware Pro' by Imagenomic.)

  Finally, there is an option called "button"return"focus" which like a lot of sports photographers.  It's practically a necessity before Canon started producing cameras with their new RIR system (it's tracking system smart topics to follow.).  The problem with old cameras was that in order to take a (full press the shutter button) you have to half press the shutter and focus WHICH triggered.  So if you follow an athlete and someone else gets in the way, the focus system normally developed to this distracting subject and not the subject.    So they released a feature called back focus button, which sets the focus to a "back" button (by default, this is the AF-ON button on a 5 d III, but it can be reassigned.)  This allows to take focus on the shutter button (half-pressing the shutter button will be 'meter' but won't focus.  A full press will still take the hit, but to focus the camera, you press the AF-ON button).  This allows you to keep an eye on distractions and take your thumb on the AF-ON button (if the camera stops the update from the update) until the distraction gets out of the frame and then you can continue to focus on your subject again.    You CAN activate this feautre if you wish (it is disabled by default).  It grows some nuts people... but some people who stick with it and get used to shoot ever sport otherwise.