Getting started with my Canon T1i

I just bought for me a Canon T1i (body only) for Christmas to use for astrophotography. I'm having some trouble getting started and am hoping to get answers from here.

First off the coast of British Colombia, I use this for astrophotography I did not buy a camera lens that I'm going to use my telescope than my goal. The problem I have is when I turn on the camera, all I see are the AF points in viewfinder and cannot understand how it get by. How do I see what I'm shooting in the viewfinder?

The dots you see are engraved on the glass... it is up in the roof of the camera (above the reflex mirror). Of course, you will not see in your images. Also, you will not see the when using Live View (which is how you will be using when astro-Imaging).

I would to astrophotography, either manufacturing or buying a 'development of Bahtinov mask. It is beyond the end of your telescope (like a scope) and slots cut in it. Point your telescope toward a moderately bright star and it will cause the star to launch peaks of diffraction in the form of an X with a vertical line in the middle. If the vertical spur crosses the middle of X then your scope is perfectly centered... that you focus to the vertical epi will move off center.

You can make your own by using this Web site to generate a model (you print, then superimpose on a more durable material... and cut out the interfacing): http://astrojargon.net/MaskGen.aspx

Alternatively, you can buy a pre-made. Many telescope vendors sell them. I use masks produced by Spike-A (they are metallic masks... they seemed to be made of anodized aluminum (or some light metals) approximately 1/8 "thick): http://spike-a.com

To focus, point a fairly bright star, put the Bahtinov mask on the front of the bezel, switch to the "live view" mode and mount the ISO and slow down the shutter speed (aircraft Canon photo "simulate" exhibition on the display live so you will get a brighter image by turning the crank up the exposure). Adjust the focus on the telescope until the diffraction peaks converge (you may need to enlarge the live view to 10 x to make this easy).

Once worn, remove the update mask, back the camera exposure settings you want to use for your object, point the telescope on this object (be careful not to touch the focus) and start collecting your images.

Don't worry 9 autofocus points, that you see when you look through the viewfinder.

If you do not have alreaady get you one, you may be interested to buy a power adapter for the camera (he slips in as a battery... but fled the current alternative). This is because exposure times a bit long for astrophotography, the combined number of lights, darks, flats, etc. you note will kill batteries fairly quickly. I have a 60Da which is designed specifically for astrophotography and Canon includes the adapter with the camera.

You also probably want to either a remote trigger cable (so you can use bulb mode) * or * you can use BackYard EOS to control the camera (BackYard EOS only works on Windows... I use a Mac, but I can run in a virtual machine). Also... If you happen to be on a Mac, the cloud cover (by Stark Labs) will control the camera for Imaging.

Finally... If you completely remove the IR filter, then you might want to watch the 'filter OWC' by Astronomik.com (OWC = Original White Balance). It is a filter that clips in the body and restores the IR filter so that you can use for ordinary terrestrial photography. The "catch" is that with the snap clip snap-in filter, you can not use any Canon EF - S lenses... only Canon EOS "EF" lenses can be used with the clip-in Astronomik filter. In the United States, OPTcorp.com sells.

Good luck and a sky cleared!

Tags: Canon Camera

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