Grand Wega LCD HD TV, KDF-E42A10 Projection model, 4/2006

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• Grand Wega KDF-46E2000 cycling continuous power

  My Grand Wega KDF 46E2000 purchased in 2006, through the next cycle after the power has sat for 5 minutes:

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  I unplugged the game the next day, I saw in the other posts, but it seems to have no impact on the problem.

  My first thought was a bad projection lamp, but it was not all of the messages on the screen about the lamp, and the light from the lamp on the front of the unit was not activated, as I expect if the lamp was bad. The only indication that I realized maybe that is the problem has been reset in the factory, when the screen was solid gray, and I noticed a slight flicker in the screen around the edges. OTH

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  I have a KDF-46E3000 that just started doing the same thing. More leave us it on, black screens appear more frequently and I count 76 power LED flashes every time. I turned on the fan to high altitude to try and cool, it's better, even if our home has AC and it still happens. Have you had any luck with the problem?

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  If the TV is connected to the wall socket via Strip/surge of power, plug it directly into a wall socket. This is to check if the problem is with the TV or the power strip/surge.

  Reset the TV to factory default from the link below:

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  HP Pavilion HDX16t with a LCD HD 1920 x 1080 p (model FF047AV aka FF141AV) screen display turns off intermittently.

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  Other times, it will disappear after that I get in Vista.  Currently, the screen is works pretty well for me to write this message and no indication of any flicker or go out of the LCD.

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  Often, when the LCD stop showing if I close or begin to close the cover of the LCD screen I got the LCD to come back often.  Sometimes, I get that it will remain turned on that I open the rear LCD and most of the time that the LCD display goes out again.

  By pressing Fn + F4 to switch to a HDMI monitor or LCD screen always seems to work with an external LCD or my HDTV.

  Sometimes, I felt a minor electronic shock when I touched the laptop. I also occasionally observed a few flickering LCD screen; but remember that move the LCD screen a bit seemed to have solved this question sometimes and sometimes off the LCD screen.

  Some of the research I've done on this model indicates that there is a screen COVER turn off switch.

  I think that this problem must be in one of the following (not in order of the most likely scenario):

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  (2) wire intermittent short between the chassis of the laptop and LCD screen.

  (3) LCD inverter going out.

  (4) LCD screen out.

  (5) video card problem.

  (6) other software or OS related issue.

  (7) other hardware related issue.

  Given the above, I don't think 6 is an option since some times I get the video into windows and then it disappears, other times, the screen turns off before the end of the POST and others still (becomes more rare) it remains lit after the POST and in Windows.

  I put 4) given the real issue I think that if the LCD was bad I wouldn't get a screen all the time.  Others agree or not here?

  On the same grounds as above option1) is questionable, if the screen switch off LCD was bad, I think it would either be working or works do not (and closing the LID put the laptop into sleep mode and open again seems to be turning on back or allowing me to be able to return from standby by using the power button).  However I suspect a short circuit or a bad switch LCD job might turn my video screen on and outside.  However, this does not explain the behavior of Fn + F4, I've known except by pressing the logic of these strikes is integrated with this switch.  I really haven't used the Fn + F4 a lot since then have this laptop so maybe I do not understand how these pressing while that connected to an external LCD or an HDTV television is supposed to work.  I heard that that's just a cornerstone of the toggle between these screens/devices.

  At this time I am trying to troubleshoot more clearly and to determine how to isolate some of the foregoing further and determine the most likely causes of failure, so I can determine if its worth the repair of the laptop at that time or not.  I had the repair of laptops and PC experience in the past but it is done in several years, if if I can isolate the problem to a specific piece of hardware I have no concerns about trying to replace this component.  Am I just dealing with a short circuit somewhere or get me out a component any?

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  There are two inverters available, a single and the other for double lamp set up.

  Simple lamp lamp double 488317-001 496467-001

  It is in your owner's manual on page 3-9

  http://h10032.www1.HP.com/CTG/manual/c01612461.PDF

  When you replace the cable take note at how many wires come out of the screen, a double lamp put in place will be four in total. Red & white and black & blue, a configuration unique lamp will have only a whole composed of two sons. The wires themselves are not part of the real video cable, but simply to come out the bottom of the screen and are held in place with tape yellow or white. They plug directly into the inverter and the video cable has a plug that connects to the other end of the inverter.

  As far as I know, all the HDX16 machines had a single lamp and all HDX18 machines have a double lamp. I've never met an exception to this, but you never know.

  If you have never taken your before HDX16, they represent a challenge. The coverage of the speaker and the back panel of the LCD are a bit of a bear. It seems a lot easier in the videos, so be warned.

  Here is a link to the HP parts store, there's a spot there enter part numbers in.

  http://h20141.www2.HP.com/hpparts/default.aspx?mscssid=6514BA4E9EAF49A2A7911BDFD57FFE04

  When you receive your new cable, do not fully assemble the laptop until you have a chance to test it. There are a lot of people who totally put things all back together, only to find out that they forgot to plug something or it's an another faulty part. Make sure that the cable is plugged all the way back on the motherboard. It is also a common mistake that people make.

  Be careful with the converter when you start and it is just hung there while the machine is running. Make sure that it does not touch the metal parts that can cause circuits to cause a short circuit. The inverter will start a good amount of tension, although there is virtually no amperage involved here, you can still get a pretty good Jolt if you touch it while it is powered. It is similar to a spark plug wire frayed in a car while it is running.