I'll do a clean install on a blank hard drive upgrade but want to keep my Firefox settings - what is the best way to do this?
I'll do an upgrade from Windows XP to Windows 7. I will be installing Windows 7 on a new empty hard drive. I want to keep my bookmarks Firefox and Ad Ons. What is the best way to do it. Thank you for your help.
The best thing for you to do is to make a backup of your Firefox profile. It is a folder that stores bookmarks and Add-ons that you can then add to the reinstalled Firefox on your new operating system.
Learn you more about the Firefox profile folder, how to backup and restore, here.
I hope this helps, but if not, please come back here and we can look at in another option for you.
What IS THE BEST WAY to CLEAN ALL USER FILES FROM A PC the wIN98
Hi Col BROWN,
Please see the following article on how to perform a clean install:
In addition, for more information, please see the following article:
I hope this helps!
I went through the installation of a new version, well... 8 times before. And I noticed that adobe has the bad habit of not properly uninstall previous versions...
What is the best way to do it?
Should I do an adobe install and regular confidence this time to remove completely the old version and its associated directories?
Or should I uninstall the old version and install a new one? I was always afraid to go this route files bocause Organizer.
Thanks for your comments.
Because fortunately, most of the Adobe programs can coexist on the same computer, Adobe does NOT overwrite previous versions
Now, if all uninstall completely from a previous installation, they would first use the uninstaller in Add/Remove programs. Then, a registry cleaner like CCleaner will take care of all that remains there. But wait, there is more! For example, PrE, will NOT remove existing projects, which many people feel is a great thing. In addition, pre will not delete the preferences file, and this is why it is necessary to reset the preferences, if there are problems, even after repeated uninstalls / reinstalls. They can be removed manually. These two latter features security measures to protect users.
Wouldn't be better to do a full restore to old phone via itunes? And then his 'old' connection phone to my macbook and install my info to the Cloud? What is the best way to do it?
Follow the procedures described in: what to do before you sell or give away your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch - Apple Support
To get your content on the phone: restore your device from an iCloud or iTunes backup - Apple Support
I want to install XP on my Equium A100-338, who has already installed Vista. What is the best way to do it, I heard a lot of bad luck stories trying to do!
I do it only as a new software, with that I need to work only works on XP.
Any help appreciated
In my opinion, you must install the XP operating system on the second partition.
In this case, you can use the two BONES; Vista and XP.
Using these two s OS has many advantages. For example, you can always test the Vista and the new Microsoft features that are available in Vista and, in addition, you can use the XP if you need to run some programs and applications that are not fully compatible with Vista.
Then first ask how o create a second partition in Vista.
Well, this can be done in disk management. Right-click on the my computer drive management made right click on the disk to manage and modify the size of the partition.
Then the free space on the HARD drive can be activated, and you can create the new partition.
Then simply boot from Win XP and install it on the second free partition.
The Toshiba drivers needed should be downloaded from the Toshiba page.
What is the best way to clean/free up space on my computer? Even do not know where to look to see how much space I use... Thank you.
A loss of main surface within each user profile would be penchant of EI for the storage of copies (or much) of almost every web page, your friend has already visited. Try to reduce the amount of temporary Internet files put in cache, which is huge by default. I always bring it back to a maximum of 50 MB. In Internet Explorer, click on tools > Internet Options > general, temporary files > settings.
Same principle for the Java cache. Start > Control Panel > Java > temporary Internet files > settings.
The System Volume Information is the folder in restoration of which WinXP system feature stores information to retrieve errors. By default, Windows XP sets aside a maximum of 12% of the size of the partition to store the information of the System Volume, but the amount of space reserved for this purpose can be adjusted by the user. Start > all programs > Accessories > system tools > system restore > System Restore Settings, select the relevant partition and click settings. If you don't want to use the system at all, restore simply to turn off System Restore (start > all programs > Accessories > system tools > system, System Restore settings restore) and restart. This will remove all your Restore Points, thus freeing up hard disk space.
An another great space waster may be trash. By default, it takes up to 10% of the capacity of your hard drive. On today's big hard disks, it's a lot of waste. It can be set to a lower limit by right clicking the desktop Receycle Bin icon, select Properties, and using the scroll bar to reduce the maximum size to something more reasonable - 1% to 2% should be more than enough space.
What is the best way to clean lose hair in this photo
I would always use the Clone Stamp tool.
I am sorry to raise this issue that so many people who have asked me. I read pages and pages of discussions on the MS forum on this subject, and without exception, all the experts said Microsoft registry cleaners are completely unnecessary and that junk in the registers has no performance impact at all. Instead, they say, to do x, y and z. I am running Windows XP on my desk for five years, and gradually, he got so slow it's almost unbearable. It takes 10-15 minutes just to start, and sometimes it takes 2 minutes or more just to open a window of browser (IE8) or go to the previous page by using the arrow to the left. Before you tell me all the things it could be, please let me say that:
1. my PC has not always been this slow! It is getting worse.
2. all my Windows software is up to date. I have automatic updates on.
3. I have a lot of disk space, almost 75% of free space on a hard drive of 80 GB.
4. my PC is free of viruses, spyware and Trojans. I have McAfee antivirus running and I also sometimes run Malwarebytes and Trojan Killer, because they always find things that don't have McAfee.
5. I defragment my hard drive on a regular basis.
6. I regularly delete all my temporary files by using the Windows Disk Cleanup utility.
7. I have very little, if any "Add-ons". No toolbar Yahoo or Google (or Bing!).
8. I removed nearly every program that I start, so that they are not running in the background.
9. I uninstalled all the programs that I don't use.
However, I still have a slow ever-more computer. Sometimes, when I see ads on TV to increase the speed of my PC, I download the 'free' software, and they claim to find hundreds or thousands of "registry errors. When I look at the newspapers, I see many entries in registry for 'Netscape' and 'Google Earth', which I uninstalled years ago, as well as entries for the videos that I downloaded, seen once, and deleted a long time ago.
So, what's the problem? If it's not related to my registry (which Trojan Killer says has more 6 000 entries!), what else could be? I would appreciate greatly any advice you can give, because there are dozens of companies on their touting their registry cleaners and the uninstall (for a price) programs, and after reading reviews of the MS MVPs, I'm skeptical of their claims. Thank you. :)
I can't disagree with a lot of things have already been said.
I'm willing to accept that your machine does actually takes 10 to 15 minutes on the clock. It's completely absurd.
Some people call your "Windows Rot" problem. Becomes just the slower windows over time. It is a collection of things that are happening in the background. Yes I believe that the register contributes. Using a registry cleaner is not a "magic" solution But it can help a little.
The PC care program/process you described is above average. I suggest you add CCleaner. Disk Cleanup is not bad, CCleaner is better, cleaning of other stuff which does not resemble the DC. It won't be a significant difference because disk space is not your problem, but it will help a little.
'Play' with the registry is VERY risky. If you decide to go ahead, I would say that first make you a copy of the full image backup using a utility that can be started and run from a CD/DVD. Just in case the registry cleaner breaks of your machine.
Registry cleaners is that they take a "best estimate" to what is no longer necessary. Sometimes they think wrong. And each vacuum cleaner will clean slightly different sets of places. If the tool does not provide a way to back up the registry before you start cleaning, do not use it. He is not careful enough.
If vacuuming offer 'levels' of cleaning, enjoy. Open for more aggressive cleaning, with resetting and long series of normal use between cleanings.
You are looking for a tool which also makes registry "defragmentation". The registry is a database that get disorganized by additions and deletions. Defragmentation will be re - organize and get rid of a 'lost' space, making it the smallest file, afterwards faster to read. It is not something you need to do frequently, but since you've never done it in 5 years, it would help, after cleaning registry.
Another place to find CPU and RAM wasted resources is Windows Services. These are small programs that start at boot time. They run in the background and provide support services to all applications or specific applications. Many applications services are running even though you don't really need them. You can find information on which you can set by Googling for 'Windows XP hardening'. There are a lot of sites with good information. They call it hardening because by disabling unnecessary stuff, you leave less possible openings for the "bad guys" to the attack.
Ultimately, I think your best bet will simply bite the bullet and re - install windows and all your applications. It's the best way to restore your computer to almost any performance fees factory. (It is not exactly factory fresh because you need to add a ton of Windows updates).
Before you re-install, do copy image 1 or more full backups. At least one must be done using a tool that will easily allow you to extract the files. You data backup files separately to make it easier to restore the reinstallation. IE, copy it to a USB key.
Many "experts" actually expect to, and do, re - install windows every 6-12 months! I think it's a bit exaggerated, but they swear by it.
Once you do your re - install, create a copy of the magnified image
Install a firewall application (before the windows updates)
Once you do all updates of windows, create a copy of the magnified image
After that you re-install all your apps, create another copy of the complete picture.
In this way, in the future, you have more current points to restore your computer to. It will reduce the time you spend to get back to the current configuration.
On a 5 year old XP machine, you have probably 512 MB - 1 GB of RAM. You might also consider taking in the shop (or DIY) and bump the RAM up to at least 2 GB or better still max out. The current versions of the applications use much more memory than they did 5 years ago. Even XP will be since he has been seriously corrected since then.
I have 32 updates that have failed to install. How is the best way to go back and get to install them?
You receive errors related to updates?
- Open Windows Update by clicking the Start button, all programs and then click Windows Update.
- In the left pane, click view update history.
- Find an update for Windows that has failed to install, and then double-click the update to view more information.
Updates that have failed to install will display failed under status, next to the name of update.
- In the Windows Update dialog box, next to the details of the error, review the error code for the update has failed.
- Follow the links in the Windows Update dialog box under more information or help and Support to resolve the problem, then try to reinstall updates by using Windows Update in Control Panel or by mail with the error code and maybe someone may be able to help others.
Windows update General troubleshooting
How to reset the Windows Update settings?
Diagnose and automatically fix common problems with Windows Update
Cannot install updates in Windows Vista, Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 and Windows Server 2008 R2
Or try to install the updates in a clean boot state, and run Windows Update: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929135
I intend to divide my drive hard while I have both a mac and pc side to get the best of both worlds, but I'm not sure what product would be best suited. As I said previously is for 3 computers that don't have currently no version of windows on them, so I guess the family upgrade would be of no use and I'm not sure whether a House package might be installed on all 3?
The most cost-effective option in your case is to buy copies of Windows 7 Home Premium System Builder. You will always have to spend money, but against the full package of Windows 7 Home Premium retail, its more profitable:
Price OEM new eggs:
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116752
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754
The OEM of Windows 7 versions are identical to the versions commercial full license with the following exception:
-OEM versions don't offer any free direct support from Microsoft technical support Microsoft
-OEM Licenses are tied to the computer first you install and activate it on
-OEM versions allow all hardware upgrades except for an upgrade to a different model motherboard
-OEM versions does not switch directly from a former Windows Andre Da Costa http://adacosta.spaces.live.com http://www.activewin.com operating system
I think formatting hard drive of my A100-454, from scratch and full Windows Vista Edition installation.
I would like to know what that (last version and preferently, in Portuguese language) software/driver should I install. Y at - it a Web page that gives this information?, without be 'thrown' by a search that gives "any software all drivers any version" downloads (Yes, I forget the filters... :)))?
I ask because, as you know, the cams of laptop with many software/utilities installed, and, at least, I don't know really "what does what" and I would like to see a page that objectively, would say "for A100-454... install these software and drivers, this software does this, this software that makes...". »
Best regards, the Portugal
Select your model and download the drivers for your operating system.
I'm relatively new to Labview so I'm not able to say if I'm overloading my programs or make my too crowded block diagram. I was wondering if there was some ways to tell if I can simplify my programming just by looking (perhaps only experience contributes to these things)?
I enclose my VI here. Currently, she is able to monitor the voltage and current of two engines. On the screen, you can see an indicator with the voltage and current values and there are cards that can display signals of different engines with a menu drop-down.
The façade is pretty clean, in my opinion of novice, but the block schema seems messy to me, just at the first glance. I foresee a problem occurring in the future however. In the future, I will have the VI to monitor 50 engines globally. All of the programming will be the same as the one I have now, but it will have 50 indicators and unfortunately 50 times just about everything. I would like to avoid this, but I don't know how I did.
I use a USB-6009. I use its four differential inputs to monitor the voltage and current of the two engines. In the future, I will get more units DAQ (25 in total because 2 motors can be monitored for each data acquisition). The new Renault will help will help with more resource space, but I think things complicate with the added option of 24 more Assistants of data acquisition (as used in my code).
Thanks for any help you might be able to provide!
Usually, it is above all the experience that will teach you the best methods for making your code to do pretty. I don't know anyone who is proud of his first application of claws. There are some resources out there to help with best practices, as that group on ni.com, but you will learn most of your own development.
Your façade is superb. FPs in general really are to you. You can do it as ugly or pretty as you want. When you have a few controls in duplicate and the Group of indicators, you should use clusters and berries to simplify. You can use a bit of cleanup in this regard, but not much. In addition, I personally hate read red text unless it is a warning any.
Your block diagram could use a little cleaning in a sense of modularity. You have a lot of repeated code, which you might consolidate in to a Subvi, which is used in multiple locations, or in a loop For. A general rule is to keep your block diagram within a single monitor. You should not scroll. Your application is quite simple, so it is difficult to BUMBLE
Here are a few details on your block diagram:
- Click with the right button on your devices on the block diagram and uncheck the "display as icon". You are welcome.
- Operations on each waveform "(x*2-4)" / 16 in double ": create a Subvi and/or run the waveforms through a loop."
- You do a lot of 2-element arrays and then indexing. Just replace the ones that have a Select node based on digital.
- All your code runs every time, including the knots of your property at the bottom, which is not necessary. As you learn LabVIEW architectures, you will learn how to get around this with the initialization and the output of code, but for now, you should put a case around those structure for only when the engine numbers change.
- I don't know how you're timing your main loop, but you should put a delay in there because you don't need the DAQmx node shoot as fast as your CPU will allow.
There are videos of intro free that you can watch to learn what OR think in terms of coding and teach you some of the basic features and such. Here's a three-hour course, and here's a six-hour course.
We are new to Eloqua (E9) and I'm working on cleaning up our incorrect data. The first part of the process is to find, so I started to create contact filters focus on specific areas that I can see what we are dealing with before I commit to clean in a program.
Many of our contact fields have given with aaa, bbb, ccc, ddd, etc. or variations on that (for example, xaaaad). In my contact filters, it seems that the only way to find things like "xaaaad" as well as "aaa" or any other variant, is to use 'First name has aaa', 'first name does bbb", etc.
My question is this: in order to use 'Field contains', do I have to enter each value (aaa, bbb, ccc,...) in the unique filter? If so, I will hit quickly step 15 Max is there a better way to do it?
You can find the cloud name Analyzer (side scan) connector to be helpful in your quest! Here are more details: http://topliners.eloqua.com/community/do_it/blog/2012/01/30/cloud-connector--name-analyzer--installation-instructions-and-guide
I am considering the classes of photoshop running for a small group of 10 people say, a month. Is it possible to install photoshop on ten machines for a single month, or what would be the best course of action in this scenario?
You can call Adobe. They have only $10 a month for teaches and students face. Maybe they have special offers for schools which do not have classes throughout the year.
April 2, 2016
For several days, I have reproduced this problem by starting with a W7Sp1 drive and also start with a considerably older drive of W7. The old installation of W7 is going very well, first run of WUpdate receives a few fixes, apply and restart. Rerun WUpdate and she finds Sp1. Installation of Sp1. Rerun Wupdate and it says to upgrade to a new Wupdate.
After the SP1 update and the new windows update, this system offers the same WUpdate symptoms as if from the W7Sp1 disk. Immediately after the installation of the drive, run the wupdate. He said: it must be updated to a new Wupdate.
(PS in each Installer Win7, I authenticated the product key and activated windows.)
After that, Windows Update never runs you want fixed. (Left running 10 hours overnight).
(NO OTHER programs or anything like that is installed after installing Win7 and starting with Windows Update problems).
I found 2 programs: FixitAllUp.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/971058 - downloading "MicrosoftFixit.wu.MATSKB.Run". (Chasing a "minimal boot"). The last time I have raced, he said if found 2 problems, but only fixed a. I hit the button Details where he says that he finds the same 2 problems and fixed them BOTH. It corrects "Missing or damaged registration Service" he said: he can't solve 'Installation problems of the recent updates' - but when you hit details it button show both under "green checkmark" FIXED. (I also tried to run this several times, and he always finds and he said exactly the same thing, as did the first round).
Also have run "WindowsUpdateDiagnostic" downloaded from the microsoft site. It's the same notes 2 problems and fixed one or both depending on if you are looking the summary or detail.
I read many many cases of a problem that dates back to 2011 and with various assumptions for this problem.
AND YET, Windows Update checks the updates for EVER and EVER.
There is a solution and it works very well...
Windows Update problem (new)
The following procedure applies in the case of installation (reinstall) Windows 7. It does not apply to a usual, normal day.
I'm afraid that you will do the reinstall again. Not a terrible penalty to pay. Usually takes less than an hour. Then immediately proceed to the next procedure. It's strange, but it really does work and many people have proved it.
NEVER install anything other than Windows updates until your system is up-to-date. Once you have the list update, install all together. Installation of updates in batches is not expedite the process or do better.
- Before you begin to re - install, download (32 or 64 bit) KB3083710 and KB3102810 in advance and store on a USB
- Start and end the re - install Windows 7 SP1
- Before that the newly installed system can go online for the first time, Disconnect the computer from the Internet. This chronology is essential. The system should NOT have access to the Internet when it starts.
- Install KB3083710 and reboot manually.
- Install KB3102810 and reboot manually.
- Restore the Internet connection, and run Windows Update as usual.
- After a few minutes, you should have a lot of updates to download and install.
Thanks to Ken Morely
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