lighting of 3D scene

Similar Questions

• Sony Bravia 55 "4 K X 85 C-Dims and light on dark scenes

  I just bought this TV and noticed on dark/poorly lit scenes either in a Blu - Ray player or even Netflix it fades and brightens.

  It becomes quite boring because on some scenes, he is very sensitive and darkens.

  I did some research and it seems that this problem is not unique and occurs on other Sony TVs. I tried the following:

  -turn off the light sensor

  -turn off the auto contract

  -turn off the dark setting (I forgot the exact name)

  -factory reset

  Despite all these solutions he still dims lights on dark scenes.

  Would be grateful if anyone has a work around for this problem?

  It turns out it was a bad tube. He comes back for another and off black and contrast (I forgot the names) and it goes dark and light during dark scenes.

  Thank you all.

• Reducing the light in a scene

  I would like to reduce the light in a scene so that the room appears much more Sun that, indeed, it was when we shot - is - best done by using only the cover for the video brightness controls, or are there other places I should look?

  Thank you!

  Yes, the brightness and the contrast are both default properties (listed under image control in the properties panel) that can be used to make the scene more dark. He a little tint by adjusting a little more blue hue could also work.

• 50L 7333 darkens the light in dark scene

  Hello

  I am the owner of a 50L 7333 3D and I noticed that when there's a darker scene on TV, a person in a background dark / night or something, the overall brightness down a the duration of this shooting (2, 3 s).

  It is really noticeable when there is the station of TV Logo... He's going too dark is not because the scene is dark so there is less light, the TV fades in all and I can really notice when it does, for a fraction of a second that it is normal, then it fades.

  It's a bit sous-compensant, instead of clarify a dark scene, it it fades.

  I tried to disable the backlight and twisted around with brightness and image controls, but none seem to get this. She really is and delivers with the films in 3D because of the already dimmed image glasses, if you add this on top, we can miss second of a film.

  I really think that it is a parameter, but I can't understand Witch one.

  I guess you have to change the option automatic light sensor and control backlight assets.

  When the * automatic light sensor * is activated, it will allow to optimize levels of backlight automatically depending on the ambient light conditions

  When the * backlight on control * is activated, it will control backlight levels according to different scenes as movement of the image, bright scene or scene is dark.

  More details how change it and where to find these options are in the 39 user manual page:
  http://www.Toshiba-OM.NET/LCD/PDF/English/L7333-4050-English.PDF

• How to add sunrise as revelation of the scene

  Fairly new to Motion so looking for an approach

  I have a simple logo (it looks like a Sun) moving on the lower left display to around a mid point upward and a third from the left edge. The right side of the scene is text.

  I would start with a black screen and then reveal the text and background, as the sun rises, with passing arc at the bottom left to cover the entire Stadium...

  I tried just to add a rectangle, which is black with the transition to transparent gradient, then move across the stage... She has a straight line for the transition between black and transparent, with a few feathers... Close again not what I'm looking for.

  I tried to use a circle to cut off a bite of a rectangle for the entry of 'the arc of light' Sun, then move this arc across the stage to reveal black to transparent, yet not able to sort out how to scramble the transition of the circle surface of the rectangle.

  So, what's a way to create the lighting of the scene, as if the rising sun made enlightenment?

  Ideally, she would like to include the colors of the Sunrise - pink soft red glow... see how the sky moves from the darkness of the night in the full light of day... where the landscape is the image of the text and background on the stage.

  Any ideas how to make this happen?

  Thank you

  Fred

  Use a light object (or several lights). Object Menu > new light (command-shift-L).

  Note * using lights requires a 3D project. You will be asked to convert 2D, if that's where you started. IF you have a background that you do not want to "react" to the camera angles, you can change the type of group in 2D (either the Inspector's group in the list of layers by clicking on the "Stacked Rectangles" icon at the right edge of the column that will toggle between 2D and 3D.)

  If you use a type of spotlight, you can set the cone and blurred. You can also color the light. You can keyframe the position to animate it through your scene. You can keyframe the intensity to simulate the change from dark to light, etc...  If your logo is separated from the background, you can also add shadows. I recommend turning the opacity to about 30 and the sweetness up to about 20... but these parameters depend on the obscurity of your background items.

  Lights to create a whole new world...

  

  *******************

  48% gray half-cirlcle, character logo color gold (specially designed fonts) in 3D. Light = Spot, RGB color [1.0, 0.75, 0.65], = 578% intensity; Options Spotlight: The cone Angle = 4 °, blur = 27 °, diameter is 90.0; default values for the rest;

  Shadows under tension [opacity = 30%; Sweetness = 20; default values]

  *******************

• What is the right workflow for the effect of light in the creation and removal of Grain in After Effects?

  Hello

  I work with a sequence that was recorded in a dark room. In first Pro CC 2014 I applied an Omni lighting effect, which has little light in the scene. But, as you can imagine, today, the picture is very grainy. In Premiere Pro there is no remove Grain so I replace the clip with a Composition Effects after, but in After Effects my light effect does not appear, even after the return of the effect in Premiere Pro it is not transferred. Probably because this effect is not in the directory of After Effects.

  So, how can I do for her to get my desired correction? Is it possible in the CC from Adobe?

  I think that you go about it the wrong way.  You are the best option is to withdraw with good lighting.  If it's just not possible, so you probably best results showing the clip of SpeedGrade for correction.  If it's still too loud, I recommend the following, which is the best plug-in of it is in some kind I've never seen.

  Denoise - simulate film - energy dark for After Effects

• Nightclub, light on DJ?

  Hello

  I have a picture of stock from a night club and an extra layer of a character that I have which will place on top of the current dj to the stock image. My problem is that the extra layer with the new character does not have the correct lighting and contrast to blend in with the rest of the shooting, I'm pretty confident that I can correct contrast. The lighting however is a problem, the current dj has some blue highlights among the lights of the scene, I'd get this kind of effect to help the new character to blend better. Any ideas on how to do this?

  Thank you very much!

  Yes, if she isn't too bad or cool, re-shoot.  :+)

  Add the blue (and subtle red) lighting would be not as difficult when adding them to someone's face, but nevertheless, it's really not easy to make it credible. It's really an illustration work.

• After Effects lights not working not

  I work in the after effects CC. I added a light to my scene and she turns just all my black 3d layers. I am a very experienced user of AE. I worked with front lights. I don't know what is happening here. It is not a question of fashion project. And my lights are not behind my diapers or something like that. I found other people in online forums with this problem among the years, but never a solution. Ambient light is the only light that works. At the same time, PIN and Spot turns all black. Thoughts?

  The problem is the RADIUS and distance of withdrawal. With the fall off the coast of the distance at 24 and 75 RADIUS when you light is the bright spot of layer 24 pixels away from the 3D will be 75 pixels wide. By the time you pass the light about 100 pixels (4 times the distance) mitigation will be almost complete, so no light will fall on the layer. Change mitigation in contrast to the square and you will be able to switch the light on another 100 pixels away before the light is no longer reached the layer. Mitigation set to None and the withdrawal distance and RADIUS will have no effect. The radius of the effects as the distance where the lights stop to reach the light. If you want falloff then you will need to experiment with these settings to get the lights to behave as you wish, but 24 and 75 are much too small for a reasonable 3D lighting system.

• Cinema 4 d lite objects in After Effects - shadows and lights

  Hello, how do you get one any Cinema 4 d object to respond to light that AE should cast a shadow?

  1. I apply the effect of trail camera to my images

  2. I select track points, the red target, right-click and 'Create Shadow Catcher, camera and light '.

  a. light Options - shadows on

  b. Shadow Catcher - accepts lights only

  c. renderer - Standard (Final)

  3. I import a C4D object and set CINEWARE to 'Camera Comp.

  The C4D object titles correctly to the camera, but the object does not accept AE light and does not a shadow of this

  light on the Shadow Catcher layer. Can't find the answer to online tutorials. Thanks for your help!

  Rob C.

  You need to put your lights in the scene, export your comp in C4D project and then set up your shadows in C4D

• Can I get feedback on a short film I did? Also some lighting issues?

  I asked for comments here a while ago and got some great advise, so I thought I would try again. In general, I got positive responses and I like him, but I was wondering what you all think. Especially if, I wonder how something light (for example, the car scene) who is supposed to look like as if it was at night. I filmed in the twilight and used a flashlight covered with white paper to light up the scene a little, but I was not completely satisfied with the results. So I was wondering how much some of you professionals would be on this scene, understand that I am on a limited/non-existent budget.

  One other thing that is difficult to answer: you ask a bunch of people from the effects of a judgment on the lighting techniques that are better made by the directors of photography, alias of the DP and lighting directors.  You always don't have fancy lighting instruments to remove the right look for a shot, but do not know where to place the lights, how intense they need to be, their softness/hardness, signage...

  .. .in short, go on a book based on film lighting would probably be a very good thing to do.

• Two annoying when problems filming

  Hello everyone. I just bought Sony DSC-W800 to shoot short films (1 minute max) as I am experiment some ideas and can't really buy cameras of spendy. From the outset I found two things extremely annoyings the filming of a video:

  1 - the camera auto focus

  2 - the camera auto adjust the brightness of each time that a new light entered the scene (for example as kindling a desk lamp)

  is there a way to disable all the controls on the camera for videos auto? Especially auto focus and auto brightness.

  Hussain_kw wrote:

  is there a way to disable all the controls on the camera for videos auto? Especially auto focus and auto brightness.

  You can't turn them off; You must move on, and unfortunately, the W800 offers no alternatives.

  With other devices, you could switch to MF (focus manual) and M (manual exposure), but the W800 does not offer these options.

• Pictures of the camera shows a white background

  I have the iPhone 6 s and wondering why my photos (say for example of a person with the ocean in the background) appear as the person is too dark with the ocean looking perfect in the background or the person lit up fine, but the background is bright white.

  Is there a setting to fix this, so that the subject of the image (the person) is properly lit and the background appears correctly?

  Hi DavidG21,

  Please visit Apple support communities.

  Looks like areas of the photos you take with the camera app on your iPhone to appear more or less clear that you are pregnant. This happens because the unit automatically adjusts its exposure (the amount of light in the scene that reaches the sensor of the camera) based on what is photographed. It is more noticeable in high-contrast environments like photographing a person in front of a bright ocean.

  You can use the HDR setting in the camera app makes up for it by taking pictures:

  HDR (High Dynamic Range) allows you to get great pictures in contrast situations. When shooting with the iSight camera, iPhone takes several photos in quick succession at different exposure settings - and they are based. The resulting picture has better details in bright areas and half-tones.

  Use the HDR. (iSight camera and FaceTime camera on iPhone 5 s and later versions) Press the HDR. For best results, keep the iPhone steady and prevent the movement of the subject.

  On the iPhone 5 s later, you can choose Auto HDR and iPhone uses HDR when it is more effective.

  Keep the normal picture and the HDR version. Go to settings > Photos & camera > keep normal Photo. The normal and the versions of the HDR photo appear in the pictures. Versions HDR photos in your albums are marked with 'HDR' in the corner.

  The iPhone user guide - HDR

  You can also tap on different parts of the screen when taking a picture to adjust the exposure manually and see how the photos will change depending where the image is sharp.

  The exposure is automatic, but you can adjust the exposure manually for the next shot by tapping on an object or an area on the screen. With an iSight webcam, touching the screen defines the focus and exposure, and face detection is temporarily disabled. To lock the focus and exposure, touch and hold until the impulses of the rectangle. The screen indicates to what exposure and focus are locked. Take as many photos as you want. When you tap the screen again, exposure and development of unlocking and face detection and automatic settings back on.

  The iPhone user guide - take photos and videos

  These two tips should help you to take great pictures with your iPhone 6s.

  See you soon!

• 580 EX does not take up with the 5 d Mk III?

  Hello! Newbie and displays the first time. I'm not an experienced user of flash, so didn't know what to expect when you shoot in burst mode, at a party over the weekend. I had the 580 in ETTL and tilted up to bounce off the ceiling. I had the 5 d in normal burst (not high-speed). When shooting, I came across a situation where the flash would work for the first exhibition, but the following shows were dark. Try at home last night, I ran 5 shows burst; the flash fires for the first two, but not the last three. When you set the flash locked horizontally (not to bounce), he worked for all 5 shows. What would cause this behavior? Low battery? The camera can be set to "wait" for the flash?

  Thank you!

  Wayne

  This is quite normal and subject flash has the same problem.

  They recharge up to internal capacitors to the Flash.  It is these capacitors that provide the burst of power to provide the flash.  Once the flash is triggered, the batteries need to replenish the power in the capacitors to be ready for the next flash.  Batteries more (and the freshest and most fully charged the battery) recycles faster in flash.

  But there is more.

  If you're shooting in E - TTL flash gauges what power he needs to deliver adequately to light up the scene.  If you're shooting in manual, you can define the fraction of power that delivers the flash (for example you want a full power flash (1/1) or do you want a fraction (1/32nd ordered?).)  If the flash has to deliver is "full" amount of energy, so it'll take more time to recycle.  If it provides only a fraction of its energy, it will be ready to go INSTANTLY (no delay) as it still has enough power in the capacitors to pull another fractional burst of power.  In fact... When shooting mode "sync high speed", that is precisely how flash works... it flashes VERY quickly, but using only a tiny part of its full potential for each burst.

  If you need "full" power and you need it FAST there is a solution for that too.  You have to cluster flashes to work like a gang.  for example if I have cluster 4 flashes together, then every Flash would be enough to trigger at 1/4 power and yet as a gang they are always provided the light of the ' total '.  This means after 1 burst, each light has still 3/4S of its left power and he could shoot four times in very quick succession.  Only after the 4th flash you have to stop for Flash recycle.  I think you can cluster up to 15 lightning - you should never a lot.

  For your application, make sure that your batteries are fresh.  (Tip: Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables are great in these hot flashes and save you the purchase of single use batteries.)  If it is not fast enough for you even with new batteries, then buy the accessory pack external battery for the 580EX II (which can effectively triple the amount of energy supplied to the light.).

• My composition is being black?

  When I'm in my After Effects application, everything seems perfectly normal, I have a flare perspective onto my objects to reveal their form and it looks perfect in the project window. Once I'll make the project, these objects appear to be black, with a simple touch of light as if I put a light touch in the composition... I don't have. Please help me! I'll post pictures of what I see in the request, and what I see in the final rendering video.

  

  

  As I said in my post, you have activated 3d project.

  

  3d project is a way of working quickly without depth of field, lights, shadows, etc., to add to the render time. We will AE make things more quickly so you can work on the problems of synchronization. However, when you return, it makes your comp full quality. You can disable it to see what your publication looks like actually when it renders.

  Then, select one of the layers that is turning black and go to sound settings and change it so that it does not accept the lights and he goes back to the search as you wish. (You can also add some lights to your scene to illuminate the dark layers.).

• Shadow falloff trouble with 3D Camera Tracker

  I can't shade to shorten.  Choose smooth FALLOFF makes it disappear completely.  Shadow wants to run the length of the shadow catcher as seems.  I'm sure it's something simple, but I just can't understand.  I find working with lights a bit tedious Adobe so I might be overlooking some common things here...

  

  I've included the project file small if anyone is interested.  Last AE (June 2015)

  https://drive.Google.com/folderview?ID=0B3aM3rl7jFBsfldaNHVoT3F0Q0JkS000VThHM3lwa2w1aHdUQW 83WFViNzY2enF0SE5YYWs & usp = sharing

  I would try using directional light instead of a point of light. The light in the scene is almost directly overhead and coming of the Sun so your light is

  going to have to come from the same direction to match the scene, this means a very short shadow. To position the light, the simplest method is to work in 4 times.