Speedlite 430EX

Similar Questions

• How connect wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT for EOS 7 d Mark II using wireless radio signal?

  I just upgraded from a fighter to a 7 d and am sure he has the ability to use wireless for my Speedlite 430ES III - RT radio signal.  Unfortunately, I've exhausted myself trying to get them to connect.  If anyone has had the same issues, or have a solution to my problem or even have a link to a good video for the Speedlite & 7 D, I have?

  I watched a lot of YouTube videos and seem to have all the settings correct-channel, master/slave, A, B, Group C parameters, the unit is set for the wireless.

  Help please and thank you.

  The 7 d II can control only wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT optically via its pop-up flash but not via radio signal.  So you can either get an another Speedlite 430EX III - RT or a dedicated controller ST - E3, mounted on the hot shoe of the camera.

• Fixing flash Speedlite 430EX II

  Hi guys,.

  Are there professionals here who know if linking the 430EX II when she and the camera (T5i) are both ON the damage anything? I know that the user manual says that the Speedlite should be OFF before attaching it to the claw. I don't have to follow this direction several times until I read the manual... I just want to know that.

  Thank you.

  It's probably a good precaution, but I doubt that you will cause damage if you leave the power on.

  I used the flashes and Canon cameras for more than 30 years.  I never turn off the camera or flash when I tie them up or take them off and no problems of any kind.

  I just went through some of my older books and discovered that, while new units like the 600EX, 430EX II flash. 270EX, 270EX II, 320EX and 90EX all say to turn off the power when you set the flash, the elderly like the 580EX II units, 430EX, 420EX, etc., do not have this warning.

• using the 430 EX II with Canon 6 d

  Hallo,

  I just got the speedlite 430Ex II and I'm trying to use it on my Canon 6 d. I would like to use my camera in Av (aperture priority), but when I put the camer in Av it does not consider Flash. For example, let's say I put 8 as the opening and the unit will be set 125/s as of the time of exposure. This 125/s is the same if I flash mounted or if I don't have it. I expect that, since I was a flash, the exposure time is smaller. I'm doing something wrong? Thank you

  OK - it does and it is an element of intent.  That this does not seem like it now, as you more photography Flash, you will realize that it is actually quite beneficial.

  Light suffers from a condition called 'falling '.  This means that if you are in a dimly lit room and using the flash, the flash probably illuminate your subject nicely, but it will be not illuminate the background due to the problem of "fall".  It's the "inverse square law' which applies to the light. (See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law )

  Here's a video that shows how it works in photography:

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• What Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D?

  Hi, I'm new to the era of digital and older than 55 years.  My husband bought me a Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D in July.   (I fought the "technological" upgrade until my old film camera Canon quit on me).  I took pictures since 1966, so I'm not new to photograph, just for our technological advances.

  I would be very grateful if someone could help me with which Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel T3 D 1100 camera specific.

  I thank very you much for your time.

  I just got my 430EX II that I bought for use with my Rebel T2i. The main reason I bought the Canon product was... using Canon products, I have never had a failure or a bad experience of 60 years. I use the LL 430EX for a few days and I'm very happy with the results. Much, much better than the built-in flash. It is on sale now with free shipping of Fed X. It is hard to beat.

  Good luck with your new camera.

  Joe

• Canon 60 d does not recognize the 430ex II flash. Any suggestions?

  Canon 60 d does not recognize the 430ex II flash. On the menu screen, it says that flash is where not compatible.

  Any suggestions? Books or guides recommended?

  Thank you

  A few...

  I hope that you have verified that the flash lights up completely and you get the red light showing that it is ready to fire.

  On your system menu 60 d, if you find the "Flash control" option, you can ensure that you have not set the external speedlite to 'disable' - although I think in this mode, you wouldn't get the message you describe.  that is, I doubt it's, but you can double check.

  A more common reason for the failure is that the flash of the camera can perfectly communicate with flash.  This is usually due to a bad connection in the 'foot' of the lightning.

  The flash must be in place in the rails of the claw.  Make sure that the lock is released, fully slide the flash into the rails of the hoof, stop.  Engage the locking of the foot, so we got him firmly (it will slide to the right and then click sur-pour-snap (you must press the button to release the locking lever).)  This is not * only * snug foot... He also puts a tiny metal pin locking in a small hole in the claw so that flash can't get out.

  At this point, the "foot" of the flash is actually the "ground" connection and he is in contact with the metal rails of the claw AND the five contacts on the foot must be in contact with the camera.

  This means there is nothing wrong with the flash - and there could be something wrong with her.   So if you are convinced you fully secures the flash, then remove the flash and inspect the "foot" on the flash.

  The metal plate on the bottom of the flash must be strong... If you use your fingers and try to move it (do not use a heavy force... we do not break - just firmly grasp and see if he's going to move at all) it should not move.  If it does not move that this means that the foot is loose and is not attached to the body of the flash (there are four very small screws which hold it firmly, but they are accessible from the inside of the flash.

  Next, inspect the 5 metal pins on the bottom of the flash.  Each of these areas is spring loaded so that they will stand against the 5 points of contact in the camera shoe.  I sometimes saw a performance of something (for example, a bit of sand) getting stuck and 'jam' a PIN so that she she brings more contact with the contact on the hoof.  If you view the foot of the flash of an edge - on view, all the pins it is back to the same height.  If one of them is lower than the rest... indented it is blocked.

  The 430EX II has a solid reputation as a flash work horse.  It tends to be among the most reliable flashing on failures is rare.

  It is also possible that the problem is in the camera.  A simple test of this is to try an another speedlite (if you have one, or if you have a friend who has a).  If it's your speedlite, and it is under warranty, then it is probably a simple remedy of service Canon.

  If the flash is not under warranty and that the problem is with the hot-shoe is is not solid, it is often an easy repair.  If a foot have been irreparably damaged, the entire foot can be replaced (everything is a module) and it is an easy and I think a little low cost repair.

• Manual adjustment of the speedlite 600Ex-RT

  Can you get it someone please let me know if it is possible to the timeout value between f to get a distance to correct for speedlite 600EX-RT exposure is set in manual mode without using the meter. The flash output is selected for exposure in manual mode. How to check that the selected power is also suitable for the exhibition.

  Thanks John.

• Problem with flash Speedlite 320EX and EOS Rebel T3i (EOS600D)

  Hi, for about 18 months, I've used this combination without a single glitch or problem. I bought the Speedlite old second hand, and all died on me in Nov. The guy I bought said it was about 3-4 years wneh I t so I thought that I just replace the same model, but buy a new one this time.

  Since it seems however not the flash unit at full power at times and at others seems not synchronized with the shutter. Sometimes it works fine, but then doesn't flash at all or has a problem that I describe above. I have returrned the flash at the company and they said their technician checked and it works fine.

  Anyone else have these problems or indeed solved these problems? Any suggestions would be very welcome.

  Thank you in advance.

  PS. edited title because I just discovered the EOS600D called the EOS Rebel T3i in the USA. I'm from Scotland.

  Other wrote:

  Thanks, yes I tried to situate the flash every time, as well as all the parameters of compensation. What seems to work he left for 10 minutes, this iften solves the problem, and I can carry on shooting images for another period. So confusing and frankly boring.

  Bravo for the answer.

  Brian

  Ten minutes for each flash? In theory there could be something wrong with the condenser and the unit needs service.

  Ten minutes, then you can fire flashes several before he had to rest again? Most likely, the batteries are weak or inappropriate to the task. Make sure you use Eneloop pros. Most serious photographers think that there is nothing better.

• Speedlite 589ex ii

  With the 580 is it possible to emit a low power pulse of light that will trigger another Speedlite but not illuminate the subject itself? Thank you!!

  If the 580EX II is used as a 'master' on the device and communicates to a slave E - TTL flash, then Yes... it is possible.

  In the flash on your camera control menu, just tell him to 'disable' the flash.  This sounds like an oxymoron to have a flash, turn it on and then 'disable' it... But what it really means is that you want the flash to the single function Commander speedlite but not fire when the camera shutter is open.

  You will still see the speedlite flash, but if you carefully consider your images you will notice that only light of the speedlite (s) off-camera (or ambient sources) are visible in the shot - and you will not see evidence of light the speedlite on the device.

  The most confusing this framework (when I learned to do it), is that YOU WILL see your light flash on the device even in a disabled"" State.  But this event fires only for communicating with other Speedlite flashes and it won't contribute light on this subject.

• 430EX vs 580ex

  I'm in the market to buy either the new 430Ex or the 580ex used... What is the best one if I can get a 580ex for $300 (Excellent condition)... I'll use it on a for small weddings and quinceañera T3i... Thank you!

  The 580EX II is better than the 430 EX II flash.

  -guide high number

  -can act as a master flash

  -a multi mode (strobe)

  - and something that is not in the specifications, the 580EX head can turn on 360o, where the 480EX can turn only 270o

  If the 580EX is the mark II (580EX II) and is in excellent condition, includes the case, the claw and the documentation, I'd go for the 580 on the 430.  The advantage of the extra power would probably be sufficient reason.

• Canon Flash 430EX 11 to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens.

  I bought a Canon 430EX 11 Flash to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens. Flash displays the icon confirming the auto zoom only intermittent and when it isn't, twist the zoom of the camera does not appear on the screen of the flash.  The batteries are charged and the flash is locked on the camera.

  I'm not entirely sure I understand your question.  The 430EX II has can be put in a mode where it automatically follows the camera zoom (within the limits... 24 mm to 105 mm), but you can ALSO put it in a mode where you manually control the zoom flash.  If it's in the manual control mode, so it won't automatically zoom.

  It is important that the 'broad' Panel not in use (if you go out and go back to the bottom of the Panel then flash will go to wide angle and zoom not EVEN if it was in auto mode.)

  Press the Zoom button, then use the - / + keys to change the zoom.

  When under manual control, there is a black "M" icon that appears the word "Zoom".  If the "M" is not present then it is auto zoom mode.

  Finally... When you change the zoom on the camera lens, generally nothing will happen on the flash UNTIL you wake up the system by doing a half - press the shutter button.    When the camera wakes up to the meter and focus... it is when she allows to set the zoom on the flash head.

• Choose the good speedlite Canon 6 d and Nikon D 80

  Hello world. Please bear with me, I'm new on this.

  I went nuts online reading on choosing THE right speedlite for my camera (s). And I'm more confued as never before to ask if your advice.

  I have the following bodies:

  Canon 6 d (currently with 24-70 MM lens, you are looking to invest in a zoom super large and super telephoto in the future)

  Nikon D 80 (18-135 mm and 50 mm lens block)

  Using flash for me: I want to use it as a master, claw mounted, is thus also distance away if necessary. You want to use to fill, studio, night photography work.

  My maximum work is with the 6 d. I use the Nikon D 80 but often. Finally, I would like to make the wisest choice, as my budget is between $ 200 and $500.

  (1) I'm caught between the purchase of a Canon speedlite dedicated and buy a flash which is used on the two bodies and my wider lenses.

  (2) I read that the most powerful currently available for Canon speedlite is the 600 EX - RT his broader coverage corresponds to the focal length of 28 mm and upwards.

  Are there any other generic speedlites that don't cost the Earth and have a broader coverage with the same force as the 600 EX - RT?

  (3) OR foregoing, moreover, are a generic model that will as well on the nikon and canon?

  Appreciate your time and advice,

  Samy

  Samy

  Of course, only you can balance your desires/needs against your budget, but it seems that you intend to take the 6 D your battle horse and expect professional results with it, this is where to put your money.  Generic and unique for all made compromises now will be usually exact a price in the form of frustration and disappointment still on the line.  For your intended use and expected results, I would recommend biting teeth and go with the RT 600EX for the 6 d and a low price Nikon (recommended) or generic flash for the D80.  I would advise looking at material of opportunity to save money, but some years ago, I did it with a couple of flashes Nikon SB-26, from two different suppliers, only to discover that the reason why they were on the market was because motorized zoom mechanisms were worn.  At the moment where I've had have been renovated, I was in a bit of money to have bought new.  Since then, I was simply not a fan of the gear used.

  Good luck!

  Kind regards

  Ted

• With the help of my Speedlite

  Hello

  I have just bought a flash speedlite Neewer TT560 and use it with my canon 6 d. I can't t to work and feel I'm missing something very basic to connect the camera to the external flash protection. The speedlite itself works as he has a test function.

  I mount the speedlite on my canon shoe according to the instructions. What to do next? Do I need another cable so that pressing it down the shutter, the flash works?

  In the camera, go to the control menu - externa protection flash setting flash comes up with the message "incompatible flash or the flash output is off. I also have a Yongnuo speedlite and the same thing happens.

  Well Yes, the Yongnuo RF-602 (a $20 set) or the RF603 II ($30 a set).  Highly recommended.

  I use the 602 for years and I think it's a great relaxation.  I own a set of triggers Yongnuo RF-622 that are compatible eTTL, but I use mostly my 602 s because I'm really not using eTTL and I love how small and compact are the 602 s.

  I can't speak to the 603 II by personal experience, but it looks like they have made some nice changes.  Just make sure that if you get the 603 that you do not get the first former version. If I bought today I'm not sure that I'd get - 602 s have a 1/4 "threads on the bottom which allows them to screw directly into my tripods.  This is a fantastic feature, I have no idea why they don't for the 603 s. This unique feature is probably more for me than anything I've mentioned below.  Without this thread, you must use a claw, which is not nearly as robust as the thread.

  In addition, the 602 transmitter is tiny, I like, but it has a couple of down sides:

  • It uses a special battery (CR2), which are expensive, hard to find, and I do not have a loader for.  They last forever (well over a year of frequent use), but still, it is good that the 603 II uses all of the AAA batteries.
  • There is no mechanism of locking on the feet.  It is not a problem on the receivers, since I use the thread 1/4 ".  But the small tiny transmitter slipped out on occasion.  LLA 603 II added a lock on the foot so it doesn't slip off.
  • There is no power switch on the transmitter.  If you take just the transmitter in your bag and something presses against it, it will wear out the battery.  I built a little case for it for storage.

  And one more for 603 II.  Switch on the receiver 602 and the 603 s original, was poorly placed on top, so you couldn't get there when a flash is mounted.  They finally have it moved to the side of the 603 II.  It's actually a nice update that I wish I had.  Other differences above don't bother me much.  However, if I were buying today, I'm not sure I'd get.

  Edit: one more thing I forgot.  The 603 II has a degree of transmission.  If you can ride a Transceiver on your camera to send a message and you can always put a flash (or even another trigger) above it.  It is not something I do regularly, but I needed this function and has been unable to do with my 602 s.

• The ML - 3 ring flash and the speedlite 300tl is usable on the EOS 7 d?

  I have good light for canon ml-3 and a speedlite 300tl that I use on my canon t90. I'll buy a Canon EOS 7 d DSLR. Can I use the ML-3 and the 300TL on the EOS 7 d?

  I want to thank each of you for the quick response. It's very appreciated.