Speedlite 580EX

Similar Questions

• Speedlite 580EX II E - TTL mode problem

  Hello

  My speedlite has recently started to produce photos that are underexposed in E - TTL mode. Compared to the previous pictures, the difference is of about 2/3 - 1 full stop.

  I have done a number of tests using my EOS 40 d and an EF 24-105 f4/L IS USM lens.

  I used the fully charged batteries in the camera and speedlite (two alkaline batteries or NiMH in flash). I checked the exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation settings as well as all other parameters of the menu camera and custom in the speedlite and camera functions. Everything is in order and there is no conflict between the camera and the speedlite.

  I shoot in RAW and as a test, I took a number of pictures in the manual, Tv and Av modes, both without flash and using the flash on the camera. All were well exposed (with no exposure or flash exposure compensation).

  I tried recycling the speedlite to full power several times - time 5 seconds. Thus, it seems that the batteries were working well.

  I then carried out a number of tests in the manual, Av and Tv modes at various shutter opening and ISO settings to compare flash shipped with the speedlite E - TTL mode performance. Each of the photos taken with the built-in flash has been well exposed with a good histogram. Each comparison with the speedlite photo is underexposed, with a bad histogram and reduced file size. With some tests, it was necessary to set the exposure compensation to + 2/3 to + 1 stop flash to achieve results globally comparable to the onboard flash.

  However, this workaround solution produce satisfactory results for the subject distances over 20 feet, even at high ISO and long shutter speeds. The output of the speeedlite was much too low. These tests were done inside.

  Then, I made tests with the speedlite in manual mode with all of the production in full. A range of shutter speeds, apertures and ISO settings photos were completely blown out. The same result was obtained with the speedlite in sync and manual high speed selected if the shutter speed is equal to or less than 1/250 second (max height available for the on-board flash shutter speed).

  As a solution, I put the manual speedlite with sync high speed and set faster than 1/250 second shutter speeds and

  tried the exhibitions at different distances from the object. In General, the sync high-speed kicks. I have not yet checked performance to subject more than 30 feet, but a comprehensive exhibition was obtained in all tests to date, (mostly better with flash exposure compensation of-1/3). However, according to the ambient light auto focus was sometimes impossible.

  These tests, it seems that the device works well, the speedlite is capable of generating a full release and in manual/high-sync mode, it will produce a correct exposure with high shutter settings.

  While the two workaround solutions - E - TTL mode with timing of compensation and flash exposure manual/high speed - work, some experiments are required and both have their drawbacks. There are moments where I would like to make with the speedlite in manual, but for the most part, I was pleased with the results in E - TTL mode and I want to be able to restore my speedlite complete state.

  I wonder if anyone can shed light on fault (sensor/transistor?) and repair.

  I'm sorry to have provided a lot of details, but I wanted to avoid unnecessary questions or solutions that I've tried. Any assistance from members who are aware of this problem would be greatly appreciated.

  It is not a fault. It seems that if the flash does not work correctly.

  You realize, not you, the ETTL flash works differently in mode to manual exposure, it does in the automatic exposure modes?

  When you have the ETTL flash game and the camera to Tv or Av or P, the camera will expose by ambient light as if the flash is not there, and the flash is treated as a FILL light. The flash output is reduced by something like 1.5 or 1.7 stops full power, unless you overrided with + or - Flash Exposure Compensation.

  When you have the flash in ETTL and Manual, the flash is FULL and processed by the camera, as if it were the only light source. The ambient light is ignored (but according to the selected parameters can still be a factor in your images). Once more, you can substitute with FEC, if you wish.

  If I read your description, you see the difference between manual/FULL flash and AE/TTL. As long as you keep in mind these, you can configure the camera and flash in ETTL mode easily to many different situations.

  You will notice that the flash often recycle much faster when it acts as a FILLER, because it is drawn to the decline in production. I often use the fill outdoors during the day and can get two or three 'pop' quick lightning before it slows down for recycling.

  If you want the 580EX II to recycle faster, use of quality instead of alkaline batteries rechargeable batteries. For faster recycling, a CP - E4 battery pack is a nice addition. He added 8 AA plus size batteries that flash can appeal.

  I never use the built-in flashes, so I don't really know how they compare.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Canon T1i and Speedlite 580EX off camera use for

  I have a T1i and 580EX (not 580EX II) flash. I would like to use the flash on the camera. Would need other devices (trigger, transmitter)? If not, then could you give me the guide the way in which it is defined. Thanks in advance.

  The 580EX can works as a Canon E - TTL wireless (optical line-of-sight) master or slave flash.  You can use a commander of on-camera flash or get another able to work as a master or slave flash.  A few hot flashes like the 430EX II cannot function as a 'slave' (non-master).  The 580's can be.

  The bult - in flash on a T1i will not trigger a slave Canon E - TTL remote.  I think the T3i was the first of the rebel line to achieve this functionality.

  You can use triggers to 3rd party... optical or radio.  Some of them are extremely cheap, but do not have E - TTL.  The end part 3 higher units that manage the E - TTL are quite expensive (Skirball mentioned the brand of POCKETWIZARD (English) which has a very good reputation... but is not cheap.  )

  POCKETWIZARD (English) has a problem of reliability with Canon 580EX II units (do not know if it would have the same problem with a 580EX II).  The real problem is that when you do E - TTL, there's a pre-Flash and certain communications made before the actual shooting takes place (it's very fast-), but when the preflash fires, the 580EX II was generating enough RF interference that the PocketWizards could not communicate reliably and the flash would not be triggered as expected.  There were a few attempts to create RFI shielding and I even heard of services that change the guts of the flash to reduce the interference (which would, of course, canceled warranty.)

• Camera flashes

  Hi guru...

  need a suggestion... Is the power of maH battery has something to do with flash response time? battery with which MA is suggested?  Which is also the best battery suggested for use on a full-time basis for a function of 2 h?

  Milli-ampere hour is the amount of energy that the dough is capable of storing.  Think of this as the tank of gas on a car.  A car can have only a 10 gallon tank.  Another car might have a 15 gallon tank.  15 gallon means the car can store more 'energy' (as a gas) - but this does not necessarily mean that the gas flow out faster.

  It is similarly of the batteries.

  My favorite for my Speedlites batteries are Sanyo 'Eneloop' rechargeable batteries.  These are 1900 mAh batteries, but the thing TOUCHES thereon, is that they are "low self-discharge" batteries.  All batteries will be auto-dischrage if they sit unused (just sitting on a shelf... they don't even have to be connected to anything).  Some rechargeable batteries will lose 20% of their power in the first 24 hours after his indictment.  Eneloops have a _very_ slow rate of self-discharge... so slow, in fact, that when you buy the news in a store, you'll discover that they actually charge (they do not require an initial charge like most rechargeable batteries) and they will be more complete.  This means I can treat them as non-rechargeable batteries... If I leave a sit unused flash for a few weeks, that I don't have to worry that I need fee-to top the batteries before you can use it... It'll still be ready to go.

  To make a quick flash recycling requires more comprehensive amperage (AMPS are essentially a measure of the rate of flow of energy... Ah is a measure of storage regardless of flow).  Canon makes an external battery for their Speedlite 580EX II flashes and 600EX-RT (not included... it's an accessory) called the "Compact Battery Pack CP - E4.   It contains 8 AA batteries (that the wedges internally only flash 4).  You can place the system in a mode where it combines both internal and external and external batteries or a hence only external batteries).  But given all these batteries significantly improves the speed of flash recycle (as well as the number of flashes you can get.)

  If you REALLY need quick recycle time, you can cluster Speedlites.  Watch this video if you want to see how it works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaALe0w992E

  Note that it uses sync mode high speed with these flashes because it must freeze the action with fast shutter speeds.  Sync high speed, the flash must quickly than scans of gap filling of pulse on the sensor.  The number of pulses required depends on how much faster the shutter speed is set above max flash sync speed.  If, for example, the trigger is set to 1/1000th (5 bodies max flash sync speed x more) then the flash pulse has at least 5 times to get the exposure... which means no single burst of light can spend more than 1/5th of the total capacity of Speedlites.  By the lights of clustering, each single light has to release a tiny amount of capacity stored by impulse, which means that the cluster of them easily has enough power to handle the quick actions via sync high speed shooting in direct sunlight.

  The point is... you can do these things fire as fast as you need it to fire - I don't expect many of us will run out and buy six Speedlites plus a commander, but it is good to know HOW to get the system to do IF you need, the system can deliver the performance (but I think I would probably rent the additional Speedlite for filming).

• Flashlights

  Hello, please advice me for a flashlight to my camera Canon sx50 hs power?

  Hot shoe of the camera is compatible with all Canon Speedlite flash units currently marketed as well as a number of hot flashes is no longer marketed (e.g. they do not actively sell the Speedlite 580EX II... but it works with it).

  The model number of the flash tells you "Guide number" as the flash in meters.  For example the 270EX II has a "guide number" of 27 meters.  The 430EX II is a "guide number" 43-metre (omit just the last "0" in the model number and that is the "guide number").

  A "guide number" is a scenario of the industry standard benchmark to measure the distance a proper illuiminate can flash a topic.  But as the amount of light collected by the camera depends on your exposure settings, the reference level of ISO 100 and f/1.0 (opening size) is supposed to.  What do you _really_ is divide the distance "guide number" by the (opening) diaphragm of the lens and it is the real distance that flash can handle.

  For example: the Speedlite 430EX II is a 'guide numbrer' 43 meters or approximately 141 feet.  But this is at f/1.  Your camera can't shoot at f/1 (no one does a f/1 lens).

  When your device is fully zoom-in (maximum magnification) lens has a report f / d of f/6.5.  So, you would divide by 6.5 141 feet.  This gives you a distance of just over 21 feet (21.7).  If your camera is fully zoomed-out (wide angle) the report f / d is improving and the f-stop can go as low as f/3.4.  So, you would divide 141 feet by 3.4 and gives you a distance of about 41.5 feet (the distance is better because the diaphragm opening is larger, which means that it can collect more light).

  All this has been for the Speedlite 430EX II.  It is a 320EX and a 270EX II who are both much smaller and more compact... but also less powerful.

  One last thing... when a flash is pointed DIRECTLY at your subject, you get a difficult "flat" lighting.  The object don't throw no shadows, because the flash is close to the lens (so the shadows are all hiding behind your subject where the camera can't really see them.)  Good lighting includes good shadows and also the shadows which have a flexible transition from the edge clear dark rather than a well-defined shadow.  While the detached flash is fantastic, an easy solution for flash on the camera is to "bounce" the flash on the ceiling.  This works if (a) you are on the inside, (b) ceiling is not too high (otherwise, the distance to bounce back is too far and you return very little light) and (c) the ceiling is a pretty neutral white (if the ceiling is painted a different color than the ceiling color is tinged light.)

  The reason why I have noticed this is because when you "bounce" the flash, you get a look more attractive, but the light must go much further than if you point the flash directly on the subject and also not a 100% of the light is reflected... you lose a lot of light.  For this reason, it is RECOMMENDED a flash that is more powerful than you can imagine.

  A 270EX II will work well for bounce IF your topic is not very far away (for example subjects inside in about 10').  If you're at an event... it's a big room, your subject is further... the 270EX II will be strong enough.

  The OTHER time it's GREAT to use a flash is outdoors in full sun.  This may seem strange... but the Sun is SO bright that the shadows it casts are VERY dark.  Shooting a person, for example, gives you an exhibition where the positive side of their face is very bright, and yet, the shadows are very dark.  It's much nicer when the highlight of their young side is only slightly brighter side shadow.  To resolve this problem, using the flash outdoors in full sun as a 'fill' flash.  I prefer lower the power of the flash just a bit... to '-1' setting (you can adjust it in increments of 1/3 of).  It really improves the look of outdoor photos.

  The menu on your SX50 will have an external speedlite section that allows you to adjust the power levels of the speedlite.

  I own a 270EX II, a 430EX, a 580EX II and two 600EX-RT Speedlites.  I use the 270EX II with my body of Powershot G series, but only as a 'fill' outdoor flash or a Flash inner bouncing to illuminate subjects in about 10' away.  For more general use where subjects could be much further, I use the 430 models and more... especially when you use the flash with light-modifiers to soften the appearance of the light.

• SL1 as master wireless?

  So back to DSLR photography and learning about off-camera flash.

  Can I use my SL1 as a master for my 565EXII of Yongnuo off camera wireless? I had success by using the optical trigger when you don't attach a TTL cord. I was wondering if the SL1 has the ability to trigger wireless, though, without having to buy a radio trigger.

  If this isn't the case, I can trigger the slave without triggering the pop-up flash?

  Hi and welcome to the forums.

  The built-in flash SL1 cannot control of other off-camera flashes using the optical wireless system. This is one of the features of the rebel T5i step-up models.

  You will need to use the built-in flash or another type of triggering device.

  See if you can set the Yongnuo to trigger the Yongnuo flash (they call it S2 mode) - built-in / pop-up flash emits two flashes - one for the calculation of the exhibition before the opening of the shutter and the other for the main exhibition.

  Or you can use a Canon Speedlite 90EX or ST - E2 and Speedlite 550EX Speedlite 580EX, 580EX II Speedlite or Speedlite 600EX will be necessary to trigger the Yongnuo off camera. You can also find the Yongnuo made versions of the Canon flashes listed for less money.

  Yongnuo as the YN622C radio triggers are also an option to trigger by radio.

  Brian / p4pictures

• 580EX II eTTL full power using E - TTL FLASH off-camera cord

  With the help of a 5 d Mk III with 580EX II.  On the claw, eTTL works very well. Can access the menu camera very well.  When I join eTTL off-camera flash cord to get the Speedlites off camera, only full of works of power and compensation does not at all.  Full power only and can not access the settings in the menu of the device.  When I do the same thing to the 430EX II everything works very well on and off-camera with the same nine cord and menu is accessible and settings can be changed.

  No idea what it could be?

  JeepDaddy wrote:
  This isn't a power cord Canon, it's Chinese. I think it's a combination of cord of low quality and reliable contacts on Speedlite flashes old guns. After I posted this question and had a cup of coffee, I tried again and magically it started working. I swapped the Speedlites and the 430 would not work, but then he slips and turns off several times it worked.

  I don't use my Speedlite flashes very often, but whenever I've done, it seems that I have trouble connecting with all that I use on the inclusion of the claw. I ETTL triggers that I always seem to have the same problem with.

  Maybe can anyone suggest a way to make more reliable contacts?

  The evidence is to try a Canon cord. Although bad contacts on flashes Speedlite is a possibility, the fact that these two of them only sporadically suggests that the cord is at fault. And since you rarely use the Speedlite flashes, you have probably not given time to contacts wear.

• Speedlite 589ex ii

  With the 580 is it possible to emit a low power pulse of light that will trigger another Speedlite but not illuminate the subject itself? Thank you!!

  If the 580EX II is used as a 'master' on the device and communicates to a slave E - TTL flash, then Yes... it is possible.

  In the flash on your camera control menu, just tell him to 'disable' the flash.  This sounds like an oxymoron to have a flash, turn it on and then 'disable' it... But what it really means is that you want the flash to the single function Commander speedlite but not fire when the camera shutter is open.

  You will still see the speedlite flash, but if you carefully consider your images you will notice that only light of the speedlite (s) off-camera (or ambient sources) are visible in the shot - and you will not see evidence of light the speedlite on the device.

  The most confusing this framework (when I learned to do it), is that YOU WILL see your light flash on the device even in a disabled"" State.  But this event fires only for communicating with other Speedlite flashes and it won't contribute light on this subject.

• Fixing flash Speedlite 430EX II

  Hi guys,.

  Are there professionals here who know if linking the 430EX II when she and the camera (T5i) are both ON the damage anything? I know that the user manual says that the Speedlite should be OFF before attaching it to the claw. I don't have to follow this direction several times until I read the manual... I just want to know that.

  Thank you.

  It's probably a good precaution, but I doubt that you will cause damage if you leave the power on.

  I used the flashes and Canon cameras for more than 30 years.  I never turn off the camera or flash when I tie them up or take them off and no problems of any kind.

  I just went through some of my older books and discovered that, while new units like the 600EX, 430EX II flash. 270EX, 270EX II, 320EX and 90EX all say to turn off the power when you set the flash, the elderly like the 580EX II units, 430EX, 420EX, etc., do not have this warning.

• How connect wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT for EOS 7 d Mark II using wireless radio signal?

  I just upgraded from a fighter to a 7 d and am sure he has the ability to use wireless for my Speedlite 430ES III - RT radio signal.  Unfortunately, I've exhausted myself trying to get them to connect.  If anyone has had the same issues, or have a solution to my problem or even have a link to a good video for the Speedlite & 7 D, I have?

  I watched a lot of YouTube videos and seem to have all the settings correct-channel, master/slave, A, B, Group C parameters, the unit is set for the wireless.

  Help please and thank you.

  The 7 d II can control only wireless Speedlite 430EX III - RT optically via its pop-up flash but not via radio signal.  So you can either get an another Speedlite 430EX III - RT or a dedicated controller ST - E3, mounted on the hot shoe of the camera.

• Manual adjustment of the speedlite 600Ex-RT

  Can you get it someone please let me know if it is possible to the timeout value between f to get a distance to correct for speedlite 600EX-RT exposure is set in manual mode without using the meter. The flash output is selected for exposure in manual mode. How to check that the selected power is also suitable for the exhibition.

  Thanks John.

• Problem with flash Speedlite 320EX and EOS Rebel T3i (EOS600D)

  Hi, for about 18 months, I've used this combination without a single glitch or problem. I bought the Speedlite old second hand, and all died on me in Nov. The guy I bought said it was about 3-4 years wneh I t so I thought that I just replace the same model, but buy a new one this time.

  Since it seems however not the flash unit at full power at times and at others seems not synchronized with the shutter. Sometimes it works fine, but then doesn't flash at all or has a problem that I describe above. I have returrned the flash at the company and they said their technician checked and it works fine.

  Anyone else have these problems or indeed solved these problems? Any suggestions would be very welcome.

  Thank you in advance.

  PS. edited title because I just discovered the EOS600D called the EOS Rebel T3i in the USA. I'm from Scotland.

  Other wrote:

  Thanks, yes I tried to situate the flash every time, as well as all the parameters of compensation. What seems to work he left for 10 minutes, this iften solves the problem, and I can carry on shooting images for another period. So confusing and frankly boring.

  Bravo for the answer.

  Brian

  Ten minutes for each flash? In theory there could be something wrong with the condenser and the unit needs service.

  Ten minutes, then you can fire flashes several before he had to rest again? Most likely, the batteries are weak or inappropriate to the task. Make sure you use Eneloop pros. Most serious photographers think that there is nothing better.

• What Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D?

  Hi, I'm new to the era of digital and older than 55 years.  My husband bought me a Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D in July.   (I fought the "technological" upgrade until my old film camera Canon quit on me).  I took pictures since 1966, so I'm not new to photograph, just for our technological advances.

  I would be very grateful if someone could help me with which Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel T3 D 1100 camera specific.

  I thank very you much for your time.

  I just got my 430EX II that I bought for use with my Rebel T2i. The main reason I bought the Canon product was... using Canon products, I have never had a failure or a bad experience of 60 years. I use the LL 430EX for a few days and I'm very happy with the results. Much, much better than the built-in flash. It is on sale now with free shipping of Fed X. It is hard to beat.

  Good luck with your new camera.

  Joe

• 430EX vs 580ex

  I'm in the market to buy either the new 430Ex or the 580ex used... What is the best one if I can get a 580ex for $300 (Excellent condition)... I'll use it on a for small weddings and quinceañera T3i... Thank you!

  The 580EX II is better than the 430 EX II flash.

  -guide high number

  -can act as a master flash

  -a multi mode (strobe)

  - and something that is not in the specifications, the 580EX head can turn on 360o, where the 480EX can turn only 270o

  If the 580EX is the mark II (580EX II) and is in excellent condition, includes the case, the claw and the documentation, I'd go for the 580 on the 430.  The advantage of the extra power would probably be sufficient reason.

• Choose the good speedlite Canon 6 d and Nikon D 80

  Hello world. Please bear with me, I'm new on this.

  I went nuts online reading on choosing THE right speedlite for my camera (s). And I'm more confued as never before to ask if your advice.

  I have the following bodies:

  Canon 6 d (currently with 24-70 MM lens, you are looking to invest in a zoom super large and super telephoto in the future)

  Nikon D 80 (18-135 mm and 50 mm lens block)

  Using flash for me: I want to use it as a master, claw mounted, is thus also distance away if necessary. You want to use to fill, studio, night photography work.

  My maximum work is with the 6 d. I use the Nikon D 80 but often. Finally, I would like to make the wisest choice, as my budget is between $ 200 and $500.

  (1) I'm caught between the purchase of a Canon speedlite dedicated and buy a flash which is used on the two bodies and my wider lenses.

  (2) I read that the most powerful currently available for Canon speedlite is the 600 EX - RT his broader coverage corresponds to the focal length of 28 mm and upwards.

  Are there any other generic speedlites that don't cost the Earth and have a broader coverage with the same force as the 600 EX - RT?

  (3) OR foregoing, moreover, are a generic model that will as well on the nikon and canon?

  Appreciate your time and advice,

  Samy

  Samy

  Of course, only you can balance your desires/needs against your budget, but it seems that you intend to take the 6 D your battle horse and expect professional results with it, this is where to put your money.  Generic and unique for all made compromises now will be usually exact a price in the form of frustration and disappointment still on the line.  For your intended use and expected results, I would recommend biting teeth and go with the RT 600EX for the 6 d and a low price Nikon (recommended) or generic flash for the D80.  I would advise looking at material of opportunity to save money, but some years ago, I did it with a couple of flashes Nikon SB-26, from two different suppliers, only to discover that the reason why they were on the market was because motorized zoom mechanisms were worn.  At the moment where I've had have been renovated, I was in a bit of money to have bought new.  Since then, I was simply not a fan of the gear used.

  Good luck!

  Kind regards

  Ted