wire color

Similar Questions

• W LAN Satellite A10

  Hello
  bought a Wlan mini-PCI for the A10, but may not know where to attach the wires on the map.
  The A10 has a black and a white wire.
  The mini-PCI is equipped with connectors for 'MAJOR' and ' to THE '.

  What wire color is intended to THE MAIN or. I can't find anything in the manuale or internet.

  THX

  Hello

  Wireless antenna has two cables. Connect the cable black and white hand with the auxiliary voltage

  Good bye

• Qosmio F10: vertical lines on the screen

  I use a Qosmio F10 with a nVIDIA 128 MB graphics card. Recently while I was running a graphics-based application on, my screen started showing me wire colors on the screen. I was able to start the game once more, but found the same problem exist.

  On reboot, the system showed the vertical white lines on the screen to start qosmio, ' *' on the lines of the bios password screen and green on the Windows XP loading screen. I was not able to start Windows. Thinking it would be a problem of S/W, I formatted.

  The problem persists and I can not load Windows XP.
  Can someone tell me what the problem with my laptop?

  Hello

  This sound like a hardware malfunction and I guess it could be something wrong with the graphics card or motherboard :(

  But the vertical lines appear on the external screen? If so, then it must be a matter of Council.
  In this case, you have a lot of possibilities. In my opinion, ask the guy to service for the control of the laptop. The technicians of the service in your country partner could run diagnostics tests and will give you more details about the failure.

  Good luck

• The Acer M3641 will have a standard ATX power supply? My power supply is dead.

  My M3641 does not start and it seems to be dead while it is turned off.  It was plugged and it started sparking and make loud pop.  I see no signs of a short circuit or damage the inside of the case, but I did not remove or open the power supply.  I think to replace, but I can't find all the information on the sites of Acer which would specify if a standard ATX PSU would work or if there are installation instructions I need.  Does anyone out there know about this?  Thank you.

  OK, no answer here yet, so I had to make a decision.  I bought a ThermalTake TR2 430W ATX PSU (also shown on their Web site as W0070) and I replaced the power supply in my M3641.  It cost me $25 (after discount) at a local TigerDirect store (CompUSA was.)  I was shocked (no pun intended) the degree of simplicity to install.  I was also shocked that he seems to have worked immediately.

  First I disconnected the power of the unit and press and hold the power on button on the front of the PC (according to the instructions of Acer) to release any remaining electrical load (or so they claim).  I removed the 4 screws of the old PSU and slid the box out of the chassis Assembly while retaining all connected cables.  I found the best direction for the new PSU (fan stood in the same place, so the new power supply heat can be evacuated in the chassis, but the chassis is open enough and if the fan is drawing inside the PSU the air comes from the back of the unit (reasonably fresh air.)  It's the only way it would fit the attachment power cord located on the side of the draw.  The old power supply had the fan and the power cord on the same side attachment to the rear of the chassis).  Note that it is possible that the fan is fan in the power supply and the back.  I do not know.  In any case, I had no choice about the direction.

  I unplugged the old PSU connector and replaced it by plugging the connector corresponding since the new power supply.  I did step by step, a connector at the same time, check first to make sure I knew exactly where the connector has been set and what was the orientation.  In each case, I checked to make sure that the paired wire color coding.  In some cases, there was an extra wire on the new connector, but all the others were corresponding to the color and orientation.  I had a square connection 4 pins which does not correspond to the form of any connector again, but the new PSU was a rectangle connector 8 this divide into two 4 pin and I joined an of these.  The main connector has been 24 pins and the new PSU gave me an option of 20 or 24 pins.  Once again, no problem.  I noticed that one of the connections of the old PSU was actually two connections separated on a single cable, so I simply repeated with the new power supply, which included two cables multiconnector just for this purpose.  I used one of those for the two connections (hard disk, I think) and the other for a single connection, probably for the optical drive.

  The old power supply was now completely detached.

  After checking that all the screws and connectors have been secured, screw the plate chassis and to make sure the PC is properly delivered together, I plugged it in the end of the power cable supplied with the new power supply with the power off PC switch.  Then I plugged the other end of the power cable on my PS backup APC no explosion yet, so I went the new PC button power on / off to we.  Still no spark, so I pressed the button on the front of the PC and voila, it lights up and started.  Everything seems fine.  It seems to work normally.  If I encounter problems such as overheating, I will update this post.

• Connect to a card with two 8 pins Aurora R1

  I think that this was discussed years ago, but I forgot.

  My R1 has each taken video connector one 6 pins and a connector 8-pin card. The 980ti that I'm looking requires two connections of 8 pins.

  Can I plug both plugs 8 separate pins in the ti GTX 980 so that it works?

  Yes, if you have the PS 875w, it (any single video card) should work because you have two 8-gun

  875 PS has five + 12v rails independent, but they never released the names of rail.

  My PowerSupply 875w is OGM34R (DPN)

  -P14 (6-pin)
  \---P15 (6 + 2 = 8 pins)

  -P16 (6-pin)
  \---P17 (6 + 2 = 8 pins)

  The Aurora video card power wires are as follows. This means that the wire colours = rails
  Rail 1 = P14 6 pins/P15 8 pins
  Rail 2 = P16 6 pins/P17 8 pins

  ---------------------------

  Assuming that the power supply wire colors indicate the 12v rails goes video cards:

  Try again with a power of each set wire connector at the same time. Meaning:
  Use either P15 or P14
  and also
  is P17 or P16

  This could help to track as much as possible.

  ------------------

  Edit: In your case, use P15 and P17. A cable is perhaps tucked-away.

• Need help with creating Swatch palette library book

  I am an employee in a company that produces uniforms and custom clothing.  Our art Department converts and creates logos using embroidery threads and printing inks business tones.

  A major challenge that we are facing on a daily basis is to select the right thread and ink spot of the work provided by the Subscriber.

  Our embroidery in-house manufacturing operation has 300 + thread colors and our printing division has a standard range of 60 +.  Our staff has manually from each wire color in our library of PMS graphics and created an excel spreadsheet that maps all the information of the son that we carry.  From this information, we have created custom color palettes.  Pallets work very well in the creation of art from scratch, BUT they can't help us identify possible closest matching wire color of work provided by the Subscriber using the eyedropper tool.

  I NEED A BOOK OF CUSTOM COLOR THAT WOULD ALLOW THE TOOL PIPETTE THE COLOUR CLOSEST TO WIRE IN OUR LIBRARY, THE SAME FEATURE THAT IS USED TO FIND A MATCH OF PANTONE PMS.

  I have done extensive research on the creation of a custom color book and invested dozens of hours trying to modify/create one in FRANCE following the material I've seen online of programming language.  This task proved beyond my capabilities and I have received no response and I sent to each poster who has never responded to this topic on these forums private messages.

  Anyone here have experience in the creation of a book of custom colors for the purpose of the correspondence of digital art in the library?

  I may be a solution to the problem even if I tried it with only a limited number of colors. The downside is the fact that you need to create a swatch of your color library. On the side: once the graph is saved, you can reference it at any time and apply it. It seems worth your time to test this method.

  Create the color chart:

  1. open a new file, 12 "x 12" 72 dpi RGB 8 bits

  2. choose Image > Mode > indexed Color custom Palette

  3. click in the first box in the grid. The color picker opens.

  4, adjust the RGB values of the color first in your personal library of color

  5. click on the next box and repeat the procedure to add color chips

  6. when the graph to complete (or as big a levy that you choose for the test) choose Save, name the file and save it to your desktop. Close the file,

  Locate the closest color:

  1. open the client file and use the pipette to a choose a color in it.

  2. choose Image > color > Color Table. Your personal color table will be redisplayed.

  3. click on the eyedropper in the table

  4. click on the foreground color that you put in the foreground color patch

  5. the box in the graph which is closest to this color will be chosen.

  6. option click on return to the table to its State unmarked

  close

• smoothing of the edges

  Hello
  I'm not a pro in AE and I wonder - is it possible to straighten the edge of a color.
  I have the mask like this:
  

  I have the mask like this. 3D max has generated me this mask of wire color. Some pixels are shredded like in the picture above. Is there a way to smooth out the edges? no effect or plugin that will 'count' way to the edge and remove isolated pixels + add some anti-aliasing if nessesery?

  You could try messing with settings in CC Vector Blur.

• OptiPlex 960 SFF, 1 & 3 problem code, would someone please help

  Hello

  I hope that everyone who reads that it is good and functional to become great.

  I asked if someone could help please.

  I have an Optiplex 960 SFF.  Food was abuzz very badly so I decided to replace it.  Found that they were very expensive, so looked for a cheaper, I'm not rich, or even ok now...    Found two units tested on ebay for $25 shipped, a lot, I thought, get two because they apparently know often fails.   However, didn't know that I needed units with card connection pico mother or mini ATX.  The ones I bought were from the Optiplex 380.

  After graduating from them, I thought I could cut the old pico or mini connector atx and old wire and reuse.  Use a voltmeter and formatted all the tensions of old vs new, wire colors, etc.  Got all doing just that in the last days, removed the pins with trombone tool, etc...  Welded to the top and narrowing of heat or saved the cable connections, tested the connections to ensure that all voltages were correct and match old unit, etc.

  Unit is installed again, son were a little long, but everything worked very well.  Summer update w7 64 from the microsoft site, had a lot of downloads that the os was recently re - install.  About 3/4 through the installation of 120 updates the computer just went poof (no noise or smoke) and just off black screen.  Thought that maybe something happened with updates, waited 2 minutes and turned the system back.

  Now the system does not start BIOS, get the codes error 1 & 3 with color flashing amber, repair indicates might be the motherboard, power supply or problem devices.  I tried re-booting etc, stirring 24 motherboard connections pins, once it has started up, but left shortly after.

  So, anyone got any ideas on what could have happened?  The LED on the back 'lights up' when you push the button ps, so the manual says motherboard might be bad.  Can any ideas on how I tell if it's the motherboard or something else?  I re-tested the motherboard 24 ps connector pins, all voltages are correct, and even all ground wires are works well according to Continuity test.  I'm just a beginner computer repairman, so any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you, Joe

  Hello

  Hope everyone is doing well this week, living longer.

  The new ps has seemed to work, went to post fine and then the operating system loaded correctly.  Ran that all updates to the os and the pass mark burn in test and performance of programs.  All of this work to the original specifications.

  Therefore, the solution = get exact dell p/n replacement or exact equivalent by technical support dell or knowledge of the forum.

  In this case an oR225m worked as replacement for R225m [235e-00] in a unit with the Core 2 quad processor T9600.

  Wouldn't try to rewire a new card connector mother atx mini/pico on another unit.   I pulled all the pins and welded the new connections of the cables, all the tension and tested as valid patterns, but still apparently failed ps.  Not sure if optiplex 380 ch output components are somehow different model 960 or if just one that I did not.   Spec on the 380 unit tensions were still with the exception of a different on an exit of a volt.  Including substitutes research of time spent, many hours reworking new unit, disassemble several times and others, he still do not finish work for a long time.  It worked well for 15 minutes then failed.  , Therefore, just try and find a new replacement unit or two units, as apparently these units fail ps are somewhat often become scarce.  PS units drawn never used 'new' units that have been taken to sell parts are available if you're looking for a lot.  I think that two of them would be enough to last you longer than the duration of the motherboard and associated components.

  In addition. the size of SFF has not really enough room for barely any son of length of ps to the motherboard.  The reworked unit I tried had only about 2-3 inches of extra wire and did not always easily or well.  Withdrawal of 20 pins (2 empty pin slots and 2 ground wire (black) needed no adjustment) and all the wires to solder connections took time.

  Thanks to especially Osprey and also rdunnill.

  quote of the day = A great tomorrow is created from good decisions today, so go like this!

• Strange problem with Aurora R4

  So I got my new Aurora R4 about two to three weeks, and everything seemed to go well for the first week, until I started to run games like The Witcher, Civilization V and dues Ex: Human Revolution. When I try to run these games I can get anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour into the game, and all of a sudden the entire system turns off and then turns back on.

  Whenever he starts the fans are stronger than they were the first week and making a slight rattling too. I have run all diagnostic tests that suggest Dell through their support pages and others that my CPU is running consistently between 50 degrees Celsius and 58 degrees Celsius (temperature BIOS), everything else seems to work at normal parameters. I took off of the side wall of my case of ALX and checked everything, seems ok. Even with the stop sign, The Witcher can only run for about 40 minutes.  So I don't think it's an overheating problem.

  The little green light on the power supply goes off when the system shuts down as well, so I wonder if it is maybe a power supply problem, or my take? I have not checked the other outlets in the House yet, but she stops whatever one I use in my room.

  My specs are:

  8.1 Windows 64-bit

  Intel Core i7 - 4820 k

  Radeon R9 290 x 4 GB GDDR5

  16 gb Quad Channel DDR3 1600 MHz

  Motherboard MSI Intel X 79 of the Express (not sure what an Alienware uses)

  Alienware 875 Watt Multi GPU PSU

  Alienware Aurora ALX case

  If anyone has any advice, any suggestions on how to fix myself, please let me know. Even if I can refine what the question is, who will really help when I call a technician to Service from Dell.

  BrandonGeiger

  all of a sudden the entire system turns off and then turns back on.

  That looks like a problem of "lack of power".

  Assuming that the power supply wire colors indicate the 12v rails goes video cards:
  Try again with a power of each set wire connector at the same time.
  Sense, with one card...
  Use either P15 or P14
  and ALSO
  is P17 or P16

  New with warranty? Of course, call the helpline and use your warranty (but still not above).

  Now, if it is on the contrary crashing (without showing the BSOD)... usually pointing to a hardware-core problem.

• turn off the broadcast without wire - HP laserjet pro 400 color mfp m475dw

  How do I disable broadcasting SSID for HP laserjet pro 400 color mfp m475dw.  I disabled the configuration via the web console wireless printer, but it is still broadcasting.  I also updated the firmware to 20131028 last available.

  Since it is wiered one of the scenario, I could solve this with the help of the HP Support is by doing factory reset/NVRAM reset the unit by turning the printer and holding right arrow and cancel on the touch screen of the device (cancel is on the lower right of the touch screen on the black area and right arrow is just above him (one in the middle of the Panel) in the same black box) and the device of turning on until the message something like storage reset... is displayed and can release the two buttons/zone button.

• Can not change the background color of the rose.

  Recently, I installed Thunderbird and tried some of the controls when I did. Now, it seems that my default background color is pink. (#ffcccc) I can change it to one of the 70 standard colors for mails that I write during a session. When I close the screen of Scripture and reopen it, it comes back with the wire pink. It shows no pink on my screen but when I send it to someone else it's pink. How can I change this back to white so that it will stay like this? As I understand it, it's the normal way works only until I close the screen of Scripture.

  You have under Tools(or AppMenu/Options), Options, Composition, general in the HTML section?

• HP 2840: HP 2840 color jumps

  So, we have a printer/scanner HP 2840 color laser unit. In the last week or two, he started giving impressions with one or more missing colors. It's pretty random, sometimes, printing is fine, and when it omits not a color it can be four. When it prints you can hear the rotating unit to each of the four carts of toner in turn, and when he jumps a noise color is different. I don't know if a gear is tighten or slide or what.

  Everyone has seen or knows what I'm looking for?

  It is a problem on this series. What has happened is the solenoid which stops the carousel in the correct position is not working properly. You can fix the problem, but it will take a bit of work. This solenoid is a marker that was used to dampen the noise of the arm 'L' hit the metal and also to prevent the arms become magnitized. You must remove the right cover and top cover. Suggest you do a search on google for the maintenance manual. I have attached 2 pages of the manual to show you the location of the magnet. The first page shows how to raise the arm 'L' to move the carousel and the 2nd page shows the coverage you need to remove to access the solenoid. Simply unplug the wire goes to the solenoid on the side of the printer and remove the 1 screw which secures the solenoid on the frame of the printer. Then, you lift the solenoid so that you can access the spring that holds the L arm in place. You remove the spring, remove the L arm and then clean any residual glue left by the cushion on the edge of the solenoid and the L arm. You have to put a form any of replacement down material. I use a very thin buffer of furniture out or you can use the component to a velcro pad. When to remove the solenoid it pull only enough further upward to access what you let the thread on the right side of the printer still outside the box is easy to replace.

• do I have to buy color ink cartridges? HP Officejet Pro 8600 more Windows XP

  HP Officejet Pro 8600 more

  Windows XP

  The printer will not print anything (including black and white which is my default setting), at least that I have installed a new yellow ink cartridge.  He says that the cartridge is exhausted and must be replaced before printing.    I have black and white printing color cartridges? Is there a solution? Thank you very much.

  DavidDavid salvation,

  Yes, you will need to replace the yellow cartridge to continue printing. Here's a good explanation of the design of the print mechanism, and what is needed to keep them in good working condition. Your printer is user replaceable print head. With this printer's ink lines that need to be filled in ink in this way that the print head should not be clogged jets in turn cause poor print quality problems.

  Written by Bob_Headrick on the wire note: http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Other-Printing-Questions/Officejet-8500-won-t-print-Black-ink-only-if-other-colors-are/m-p/1706581#M67899

  HP, as other printer manufacturers, offers you with permanent print heads printers requiring ink for all colors, avoid the print heads.  HP, like some other manufacturers, also offers printers with user replaceable print heads.  These may of may not require ink in all colors in print, even though damage may occur if the print from the cartridge empty.  Finally, HP as some other manufacturers also offers printers with the printhead into the ink supply.  He is replaced at each change of cartridge.  These printers will happily print with a diet low, empty or many deleted completely same models.

  When you buy your next printer (from HP or from another manufacturer) be sure that you understand what is the type of printer and choose one that fits your needs.

• Surfing the net I want already seen sites to change the color so I don't keep looking on the site even after an interruption

  When they surf the net I get many interruptions, telephone, electronic mail, either, and when I come back to the web feature, I have no idea where I stopped and again display the same sites to the wire. I want these sites to change color once because I know where I started and stopped. Thank you.

  Make sure that you are not Firefox running in permanent private browsing mode.

  • https://support.Mozilla.org/KB/private+browsing

  To view the history settings and cookies, choose:

  • Tools > Options > privacy, choose the setting Firefox will: use the custom settings for the story of
  • Uncheck the box: [] "always use the navigation mode private.

  Also, make sure that you keep the history.

• Satellite M115-S1061 - display problem - bad colors

  According to my daughter, his portable Satellite under XP - SP2 suddenly went dim. At first I thought that it would be the backlight inverter, so I got a replacement, but to change that did not make any improvement.

  Experiment with display settings it became apparent that a lot of the display of colors were not what they should have been and I started thinking about something had happened to the LCD screen or its wire causing the loss of one of the primary colors for example: Blue however, after restart I have observed a lot of blue in the diplay up to what fully loaded XP.

  Display themes and by setting to try to get a useable simple, it became more and more obvious that there is some type of ongoing video inversion.

  That said, I can't find any setting that could cause this or any similar report of this disease. I scanned for any viruses and returned only several points without results or imprivement of restoration.

  The driver has not been updated, so it there is no possibility of returning to a previous iteration and are looking for a update indicates the current dirver is the last.

  In addition, as indicated, during the first boot, the screen seems to be relatively normal brightness and colors are properly...
  It is not until the Office XP launch things go astray.

  Any help would be greatly appreciated that the school is in session, and I be get this resolved and getting a new laptop!

  TIA,
  Bob

  Hello

  > Also, as indicated, during the first boot, the screen seems to be relatively normal brightness and colors are properly... It is not until the Office XP launch things go astray.
  From your description, I think that this could be a graphics card problem.

  I would really recommend connecting an external monitor, second to this laptop to check if the same wrong colors would be visible on the external monitor.

  If the same bad colors will appear simultaneously on the second monitor then the question could be really related to a bad GPU chip

  In this case a replacement (motherboard) would be necessary

  Bye & welcome