Diopter VF

Similar Questions

• How the diopter adjustment on HX200V?

  I don't know how I like this picture because I can never understand how to use it. I really hate online manuals - especially when I'm looking for seem impossible to find. I keep seeing the references in the comments on the diopter adjustment feature, but nowhere can I find how to use it. Help?

  If you are looking at the back of the camera on the left side of the place where the ism viewfinder is a small wheel that you can enable to increase or decrease the diopter adjustment to meet your needs.

  

• the new rx100 iii there the viewfinder's diopter correction?

  I like the addition of a viewfinder to RX100 III.

  Have the viewfinder diopter correction

  Hello gaspumps,.

  The DSC-RX100M3 viewfinder has-4,0 to + 3,0 m^-1 diopter adjustment.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.

• Astrophotography Focus problem

  Hello I have the NEX 6 (with the SALT 50 mm F1.8 lens) and most of the time to enjoy. I bought it mainly for astrophotography and need tips for image correctly targeted (during playback or downloaded on my computer). I can't seem to get a clear focus, on the LCD or electronic viewfinder, but reading and uploaded images are not as well doors. I take several images focus, but no adjustment of the scope or the camera make attention the final result. This problem is the same in all forms of astrophotography, home, eyepiece projection and imaging of the camera.

  What camera modes are best for this Live View configuration effect i.e? I tried to use peki Focus, but is not effective for these low light objects like planets. Even the Moon images suffer from the same problem.

  I tried pre-focus the camera to infinity by placing it on a tripod or grafted onto the stand using MF Assist and the scope for a 'infinite '. THA has not helped either. I tried techniques, proposed on the astro sites, such as the use of high ISO focus, wearing different glasses (and set the diopter adjustment VIEWFINDER accordingly) and reset the ISO for the shhot. none available seems to help. What suggestions do you have?

  Thanks in advance for any assistance with this problem.

  I would recommend that you enable the setting [before Shutter curtain]. This function is intended to shorten the time lag between the shutter by reducing the movement of the shutter mechanism.

  Vibration caused by the shutter must be quite negligible not because of blur your images. Please check if the images taken with the Shutter curtain before setting enabled and disabled will have any differences. If the subject (e.g. stars) move, slight blurring occurs when you use a slow shutter speed.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.

• Focus problems with Rebel T3i. It will not be in manual or auto focus point. It's not about camera lens

  My camera will not focus. Not only the autofocus. I can't he focus even if I put manual focus.

  The image is still blurry.

  First I thought it was the lens I had but I tried with several, and the problem is the same.

  Any ideas what could be the problem?

  Thank you

  Have you checked the viewfinder diopter?  , It will be not clear even on the manual focus, and it happens with all your lenses makes me think that it is possible that the dial tiny bit right there on the eyepiece was implemented accidental market. The dial control what you see in the viewfinder, not something to do with the focus lens. The diopter is adjustable so that those who need glasses can see things through the viewfinder.  If everything still seems blurry even when the camera thinks he's focused it is generally just that little diopter got hit accidentally.

  IFIT is not this, then perhaps your screen focus got shifted.

• How to get decent macro shot with my T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM

  Someone here can direct me to a good tutorial on getting the macro shots decent with my objective T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM?  I'm pretty good in online searches, but I can't find are reviews and unboxings .  Even the manual I found isn't really give instructions re: macro, even if the lens itself says '1.5m/4.9ft MACRO' right on it.

  Thank you very much in advance for any help!
  Deb

  To use the lens for close-up photography, zoom focal length max (300mm for example) and run the tune-up to the minimum focus distance.  The distance of the development of saddle is close enough consider it is a zoom 70-300mm lens... but it's nowhere near as close as a dedicated macro lens to true.

  You can get close... There are two ways to do this.

  (1) you can use a near plan diopter.  So that the lens you want the Canon telephoto lens 500 d (specifically you want the version with diameter of 58 mm threads to attach to the front of the lens 70-300 mm).  It's about $85.  It is a goal to two elements (which is good better than any diopter close-up of part 3).

  (2) you can use "extension tubes".  An extension tube is (believe it or not) exactly what the name says... it is a hollow tube... and it extends the distance between the lens and the camera body.  You attach to the camera (such as a lens) and then set the goal to draw instead of the body.  This positions the lens away from the plan of the image inside the unit and, therefore, range full tune-up of the camerea is shifted more near the camera (focusing more close distance was 1.5 meter without extension tube, but will be reduced to 42 centimeters just with the attached Canon 25 mm extension tube).  It allows not only the camea to focus at a distance closer, it also increases the size of the image) extension Tubes don't have any glass in there - they are completely hollow.  The body of the tube a pine e-mail to transmit signals through so that the camera body and the lens will always be able to communicate.

  The Canon 25mm extension tube is about $140.  Kenko is another popular brand (their tubes are delivered as a 'game' of three different lengths).

  Whether you use tubes extension or close-up diopters, Cannon suggests that you should manually focus the lens.

  When you arrive at very close distance of focus, depth of field can become quite shallow.  If shallow you can't get as much of your subject in focus as you want.  Use the Hard-Core (a) macro photographers a tripod (because after precisely focusing...) "If your body moves a few millimeters, it may completely lift the subject outside the home).  If you do not want to make sure that you do not move (and the best way to do that is usually to use a stationary object to hold the camera - as a tirpod.)

  They can also use a technique called "focus stacking."  The development of stacking is to take several pictures.  You take a picture, tweaking the development by a few millimetres and take another shot and repeat until you have enough plans to stack the subject of front-to-back with all the positions of different orientation.  The images are then merged using software (Photoshop will do, but there are third-party products that are dedicated to the development of stacking as well.)

  I did it by wrapping a piece of tape around the ring to focus on my goal.  I then focus point of closest focus and use a marker to mark this point (on the Strip).  Then I focus on the point most distant from the focus I care and mark this spot on the Strip as well.  Now I take a series of photos... each, then slightly focus a little bit at a time, take another picture, and repeat until I got enough to get the closest points to the farthest, I scored on that tape.

  More difficult Basic macro photographers will sometimes use what is called a rail development.  It is a track that Mount you on the tripod and then set the camera to a carrier rolling on "rail".  Rail has fine adjustment that allow to move the camera with control.  You run the rail back (furthest point), then focus your goal for the closet focusing point on your topic.  Rather than turn the ring on the lens... you use the buttons on the focus rail - which physically moves the camera forward.