3D - multiple lights picture

Similar Questions

• There the filter presets Lightroom in Photoshop? for example, Antique, Antique Light, picture of years, Bleach Bypass, etc.

  I can't find the filter settings I use in Lightroom. Are they in Photoshop?

  No, the filters that you named are not in Photoshop. There is an older called Action of photo Image of the effects.

• Command button to the title picture transparent

  Hi NI LabVIEW community,

  I try to have a 2D buttons/lights picture and superimpose a transparent image. If the image is at the front, I can't press any of the buttons. If the image is behind the buttons, I can't see the image.

  Has anyone tried this before? A possible work around is to see where the user has clicked and which relate to a button.

  Thank you

  Nick

  See the attachment for example my solution.

• I need lenses for Canon 6 d

  Hello

  I just bought my 6 d with EF 24-105mm f / 4L IS USM lens. I'm new in the world of photography canon so I'm still confused about what lenses should I own suits my needs. I need especially my goal to take pictures at my gym where I teach karate classes, the room is about 50 * 50 feet, I am planing to take pictures for the students, while peferoming karate moves so I want to take pictures for the whole team that for sure needs a wide-angle lens but I know not the focal length I need and if it has zoom the goal or not. Addinng to this use I need as well to take pictures for my new born baby and occations of my other child such as birthdays, school events...

  Thank you in advance

  I might consider getting the EF 50 mm f1/.4 USM.

  I imagine that you will use this to capture images of students performing moves - they are 'on the move '.

  During motion capture, you can (a) use a shutter speed faster to 'freeze' the action, or (b) use a slightly slower shutter speed to allow the image implies a sense of motion blur (and sometimes, it's actually a more compelling.)

  Photograph of Interior with faster shutter speeds is delicate, because usually the light is weak (Fortunately the 6 d has a high ISO range.)  But it helps to have a goal which collects naturally much more light.

  Your 24-105mm lens has a maximum ratio of focal f/4.  The report describes the number of times the diameter of the free opening in the lens (opening) can be divided into the focal length.  This means that to, say, 100mm... the aperture of the lens is able to dilate and 25mm wide and 25mm is divided into 100mm exactly four times, it is a lens ' f/4' (the aperture blades may contract smaller... the value printed on the lens always describe the report using the largest possible opening size.)

  A 50mm f/1.4 lens collects literally EIGHT times more light.  This means that he can use a shutter speed to eight times faster than the 24-105mm... or it can use a lower ISO setting (to reduce the 'noise' in the image).

  I am also considering a lens based on subject framing.  You can use the calculator 'dimensions of field' on this Web site: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm

  So imagine that you want to capture a student doing a kick in which you believe, you will need a framework at least 10' high.  You can use the calculator to determine what focal length of a given distance, you'll need to capture that.  If I plug a 50mm lens, guess I'll be 20' away from the student, and then I can plug these two values.  There is a third value, which is the "focal length multiplier" (also known as the "crop factor").  Your 6 d is a "full frame" camera, which means that the factor of cropping (or multiplier) is always exactly '1' (if you had a camera with a sensor size of APS - C... a little... then your crop factor sensor would be 1.6).

  If I access the '50' for the focal length of the lens, '1' to multiply the focal length and '20' to my distance to the subject and click the "compute" button, it tells me that the physical framework of the distance dimensions is 9' 7.2 "high (in the vertical direction) and 14' 4.8" wide in the horizontal direction.  It is a comfortable (close enough to 10') frame to frame the subject and perhaps also their target.

  I could try other lenses too...  I could plug in 85mm as the focal length, but I try to change the distances to get a similar framing and I discovered that at 85mm, I really need about 35 feet away (instead of 20' far away.)

  You can imagine how go to higher focal lengths will be able to get to a point where you run lack of space in your room 50' because if your subject is in the middle of the room, you have about 25' and your back is against the wall, trying to get this shot.  That's why... I think that 50mm is probably a good lens (again this is based on the assumption that you want to capture a vertical height of approximately 10'.)

  A bit of caution... When you use a lens with a report f / d below, the depth of field (an imaginary Beach distances to your intended focus distance over which subjects seem to be in acceptable focus) becomes narrower.

  With a 50mm using f/1.4 lens and a lens focused at a distance of 20', the 'depth of field' is a little over 4' thick... distance of 18.1 ' through 22.3 ' will appear to be reasonably acceptable point.

  Compare that to f/4 (using the same focal length and 20' 50 mm) and the depth of field is 12.7 ' thick... distance of 15.5 ' through 28.2 ' are in acceptable focus.

  You can see that, while the report f / f/1.4 d collect eight times more light, it happens to a compromise in the depth of field (btw, a lot of people really LIKE the blurred background and do their best to get the effect).

  If your subject distance changes, then you'll want to use the mode of development of "AI Servo" (instead of the mode of development of the default camera 'One Shot') which causes the camera constantly reevaluate and tweak attention than your distance to the subject changes (in 'One Shot' mode it will carry only until she Achieves a lock... and then stops focusing even if your subject is moving and distance) is no longer valid.)

  Flash: You ask about flash, but I thought I would offer this because it's something I would probably consider doing in this situation.

  It becomes a bit complicated because of the 'synchro-flash max' speed (on the 6 d speed is 1/180th second shutter speed)  This is not fast enough to 'freeze' the action if this action is at a relatively high speed.

  The camera uses two "curtains" (doors) that slide on the sensor.  When taking a picture, you open to start the show... a moment later, the second, are closed.  The doors have a maximum speed of physics that they can move to open or close.  On your camera, a shutter speed of 1/180th second or slower allows a door to open COMPLETELY, then the flash (Exhibitor the entire sensor to light) and then close the second door.  A speed faster than 1/180th requires that the second door already begin before the end of the first opening of the closing door.  So to create pictures of high speed, the first door left open but the second door begins suite - expose really just a "slot" of light that sweeps the sensor.  This allows your camera to use shutter speeds that are faster that the doors can actually move.  If a flash fire when there is only a slit exposed, while part of the sensor exposed by this crack Gets the benefit of the light.

  It deals with issues like a flash that support the mode "sync high speed ' with enough power for multiple light chips needed when using high-speed sync.   This means pulse flash quickly because the shutter works so well that each part of the sensor has Flash.  But as the flash needs to perform several bursts, then single burst may trigger the 'full' power because the flash has book enogh power for all the necessary pieces.  It is useful to have a powerful flash in particular (as Canon 600EX-RT).

  You can also use mode "sync second curtain" If you normally involves movement... when using a flash, the first door opens, then flash fires... and wait for the camera on the amount of time needed for your show time... and THEN close the second door.  But if something is moving, it means you get a bright subject (in flash) and then the ambient light continues to bring a bit of light on your subject that continues to shift.  This dimmer light on the moving subject creates a ghost trail... but the trail is "in front" of your subject, rather than 'behind' your topic - following, so it seems a little strange.

  "Second curtain" mode involves the camera to delay the release of the flash, just before the second door closes.  This puts this drag ghost 'behind' your topic.

  BTW, this second option (which implies the query using a flash on mode "on the 2nd curtain sync" while using a slow shutter speed deliberately) also helps the camera much better capture the background exposure of the room (we call this technique "dragging the shutter" because we deliberately use a slower than necessary shutter speed when using a flash).

• iPhotos, photos, iCloud?

  I just transferred my huge library of iPhoto (120GB) to Photos app on my iMac, which is not sync to iCloud, but they are all stored on a local hard drive.  I also have iPhone where I backup all of my Photos on iCloud (25 GB) - and can see all these when I go into the Photos on my Macbook Air, where I don't store any separate photos.

  My question is (and I tried Googling and forums search) - if I turn now on iCloud sync on my iMac, photos from the iMac Photos get uploaded to iCloud Photos?  Then the pictures in the iCloud for my phone download on my iMac and get them merged into the local library?  And what of my phone and macbook air?  Can see all the photos of my iMac on the macbook Air (not on the phone, I'm going to assume that this is a one-way synchronization to iCloud only?).

  I'm trying to find the best way to consolidate somewhere, all my pictures from my phone and my iMac...  Without all these transfer to my macbook air does not take valuable storage capacity.

  Thank you!! (And my apologies, I am a newbie in the forums, where my question is not worded correctly!)

  When you enable iCloud photo library on multiple devices, pictures of these separate devices will download to iCloud photo library to create a photo library unified in iCloud. And all the photos that you upload to iCloud photo library will be uploaded to all devices that use iCloud photo library.

  The library will be updated to be the same on all devices.  Do not enable iCloud library on where you don't want to have all your photos uploaded to devices.

  You could disable iCloud photo library on your MacBook Air, or use the "Optimize Mac Storage" option.  While the MacBook Air will only download small and optimized your photo versions and does not store the originals of complete sizes.

• Several questions about Toshiba - Camileo Pro

  Just joined

  My new Toshiba - Camileo Pro camera is great, but have a few issues, the flash just seems to be a low light that stays on, not real Flash and in very low light, pictures are very unclear.
  He also failed to film or take pictures in the dark, night turned on, it s supposed to do. Joined this group of users of Toshiba about whether I have a duff (my specialty) camera, or am I missing something?

  Have you tried setting to 'default' but same prob. The playback will also stop on reading as well to the camera and the PC several times briefly.

  Have you checked the user manual?
  Here you can find all the details on the film and unique photo modes.

  Personally I have no experience with this cam so I think that the user manual should be helpful

• 5. project of cooling anti-MIO

  Objective:

  The goal of this project is to provide a way to cool the CPU from the motherboard, without the use of the MIO-Board. Basically a small plug permutation and maybe install a special cable... that will allow the cooler Asetek to function to check the motherboard, power supply and the machine in general.

  Caution:

  This change in the equipment is completely unauthorized and should not be attempted by the users who have machines still under warranty. While it will be targeted toward the dawn, is should also work on the Area-51 (with little or no change).

  Community participation:

  Instead of only myself to work on it, I thought that I would be open to the entire material AW. I see that some of you pulling-off some pretty impressive hardware mods (swaps of after-market motherboards, power supplies, cooling systems, etc.). I have a feeling that is feasible or even a little easy. Lack of patterns of Dell, their parts and wiring custom AW, this is what makes it hard.

  My machine is not broken now and I would be rather damaged in (nor would I want anyone to damage them). So we do the intelligent and not any way just to start linking things because they look like they could work.

  Why:

  We all know that MIO-advice fail in various ways. In some of the most serious modes of failure... the MIO-body is no longer cooling unit (pump and radiator fan) AseTek, or the MIO Board is completely shorted-out and now the keys of the power supply (prevents the computer from starting)... so it must be completely disconnected.

  In the above scenario, users or technicians must be:
  1 install a functioning MIO-Board in a machine that can have other main parts as bad (MB, PS, etc.)
  2. remove the Asetek cooler and install a conventional radiator/fan cooler
  ... just to see if the motherboard (and the rest of the machine) doesn't really work (and even a setting value). Looks like a waste of time and money... When you have a perfectly good liquid cooler here... already installed on the motherboard. If the Asetek pump does not turn the machine turns off in about 5 minutes, due to the thermal overload of the processor Intel (not long enough for thorough testing, landmarks or break-in).

  You cannot test the MIO Board of Directors unless the motherboard works. You cannot test the motherboard unless the MIO Board work (to run the cooler installed Asetek). It's a vicious circle. The only way is to remove the dependency on the edge for a short period MIO.

  Requirements:

  1 design and build a special cable (if necessary). Made of inexpensive and easily obtained materials.
  2. no cutting or splicing of the existing pieces is allowed. The machine should be able to easily switch back to his original material config.

  Search:

  MB_CPU_Fan of the motherboard header should be an outlet for a cooler standard (and function as such).

  Around 2009, when Asetek built unit for Dell (go into their first machines AW) that they also sold a unit similar to Corsair. Corsair H50 unit was able to be connected to any classic motherboard and labor. To my knowledge the unit Dell has not changed over the years. If Corsair H50 can be connected to any generic machine, so if the device of Dell-Asetek. Corsair has since moved on and now sells Design of 2nd generation of the Asetek (which has a built-in digital controller).

  While the pump ends with a 7 pin connector, only 3 wires actually come from the pump. It should be-Gnd, V + and speed sensor (similar to a 3 wire fan). The cooling fan seems to be the same as all other 4-wire fans. One or both may be PWM. I'm sure that the pump runs at a speed... it's only the Rad fan, which (if any) must be variable speed.

  	Coolant pump	Radiator fan (click to zoom)	MB_CPU_FAN header
  Stock

  
  Plug 7-pole / 3-wire at pump 4-pole / 4-wire fan (PWM) Header 4-pin (PWM)

  Pin 1 - Gnd (V)-
  Pin 2 - 12v +.
  Pin 3 - tachometer
  PIN 5 - Gnd (V-) n/a

  Pin 1 - Gnd (V)-
  Pin 2 - 12v +.
  Pin 3 - tachometer
  PIN 4 - speed controller Pin 1 - Gnd (V)-?
  Pin 2 - 12v +?
  Pin 3 - s/o?
  PIN 4 - speed controller? Verified by Devanny Sure it's good Should be. Audit needs. PIN #s as a fan 3 pin standard Fan PWM 4 pin standard

  This cooler Asetek is the same that is called Corsair H50. This is what it looks like inside:

  http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1025/3/

  H50 connection:
  Radiator fan: header MB_CPU-FAN (so it can be variable speed... not necessary but nice to have)
  Pump: Constant speed. Some say instruction H50 connect to any available on MB fan header. Others say they use simple cable adapter 2 to connect to legacy Molex connector 5v/12v Power Drive (you will get a constant speed). Don't know what it puts out. I wonder if it is because they are not sure that all the headers of random fan runs at full speed, or they are worried that some fan headers can not handle amps of power at the pump in the car?

  Corsair chose to leave the pump threads of different colors. Dell ordered their with all the black wires (I'm guessing that to hinder reverse engineering).

  Given that Dell will not give us the list of the pins for the 7 pins on the 'high-lighting picture' header, maybe we can find out who's who by ohm - lie the son and see what terminals are marked on the bit of narcotics inside the pump control? This should be done on a dead or bad pump. Do not remove the plug 7 pin owner... use a PIN or a paper clip.

  17/07/2012 added more data table
  Login information for the H50 added 18/07/2012
  05/10/2012 added Devanny info Asetek and H50

  Solution:

  I will try to document this solution better if I (or someone else) ever built.

  This is not tested. Use your voltmeter to check everything. However, as long as you do not anything short or get your polarity reversed (or whatever it is also stupid) nothing should is pump up.

  To facilitate the rewire the user should disconnect first the MIO Board... including power Molex, Mo USB duplicator and MB_CPU_Fan header.

  Connect radiator fan on MB_CPU_Fan of the motherboard header.

  Build or buy a small adapter cable and connect the CPU-pump to the Molex power which was used to power the MIO Board of Directors (or any other drive connector which has + 12vdc available).

  Pump - side side of Molex power or disk

  Pin 1 - Gnd (V-) - black
  Pin 2 - 12v + - yellow wire

  It's everything you need to connect the pump. Get you them for free with most of the 80mm fans. It is an Enermax and here I have a spare to an Antec.

  http://www.Newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16811999199

  

  Via the yellow and black wires, you should get + 12vdc. Be sure to what translates into the appropriate pins that connect the pump cable. It should work the pump speed of 100% - 100% of the time, which is what you want.

  The fan wheel is expected to accelerate adjust according to the load or at least running full speed.

  Whatever it is... CPU is being cooled and you can test your motherboard without the work of MIO-Board or even connected.

• BlackBerry Bond Question about features on the new BB Leap

  Hello

  I want to know if these features are available in the pale BB or NOT as in z30?

  1. Peratek antenna

  2 BB natural Sound technology

  3 camera - Back Side Illumination for the best performance in low light

  4 NFC and direct Wifi

  5. HDMI port

  Waiting for answer soon.

  Thank you.

  Hi @mhk_nk

  Thanks for your questions! Comments below

  1. The BlackBerry Bond contains Paratek technology inside.
  2. BBM, video and voice calls on BlackBerry leap will use BlackBerry Natural Sound Technology
  3. Our team is always working to improve the quality of the camera that includes low-light pictures, but to better understand your question can you expand on what you mean by Back Side Illumination?
  4. The Leap of BlackBerry supports Wi - Fi direct only, there is no NFC capabilities
  5. The Leap of BlackBerry does not have a HDMI or Slimport position but it does not support Miracast allowing of you share your screen with Miracast enabled devices such as Smart TVs

  I hope this helps!

• Is there a way to drop an image in indesign and then have captioned under that file name?

  Hello! I'm looking to help a colleague in a rationalization process. We display the full page of images in an Indesign Document, and every time we drop and image on a page, then we change the caption under the file name. I was wondering if there is a way to automate this process? All the scripts available?

  When you place an image you can activate the capture feature. There are the normal and live versions. The normal label creates a text is text, the live version creates a variable that would change if the image or the text of the meta-information changes, but it behaves as a single character which causes problems how the text will run in the text block.

  What is drawn on the Meta must be set up before in the legend, in place option.

  When you drag and drop an image from the finder or bridge you can not enable this option.

  BTW I use another way that seems faster. I assign a shortcut to the command of labelling and when I imported the image, I click on this shortcut, and secondly, I apply an object style that formats the text block including the paragraph style which can be different on a dark or light picture or a graphic.

  Normally, I edit all meta-information in Adobe Bridge, which is the fastest way to cope.

• Fog of war

  I tried to implement the fog of war for a game that I do. I tried several approaches, but none have been successful.

  Tiles alpha:

  It was the first thing I tried, unfortunately covering the screen in this many tiles with a level of alpha caused too much lag and I gave up.

  Vector drawings and blending mode:

  Then, I tried to draw a black rectangle and Blendmode.ERASE in things, I want the player to see. With multiple light sources, it gets laggy and becomes horrible if I apply a blur filter.

  Masks:

  Finally I tried to masks, unfortunately they are not very flexible (one mask by movieClip and other). They do not fit the Bill.

  You have suggestions/alternative methods to make this work?

  Create a new BitmapData transparent, then use copyPixels() or draw() your foh on this. See http://www.developria.com/2010/02/dealing-with-bitmapdata.html for more information.

  Some examples of my blog to work with pixels that you might find useful http://flexdiary.blogspot.com/search/label/BitmapData

• Application layer to the States of the objects?

  I created an object of luster with 2 layer States, and outside. When the light is on it highlights the texture of the wallpaper behind it by applying a layer effect of superposition of a yellow circle (grouped with a brighter image of the chandelier).

  That looks good on screen in InDesign, but when I go to test and view on an iPad, the effect is lost and instead of working the overlay, I get a yellow solid circle without any transparency.

  Is it possible for the layer effects be effective in the final version? I could put up as layers in Photoshop, but this is complicated when I want multiple lights on the page.

  Thank you

  Well - I thought about it. The problem is a problem only when you have several lights on the page, otherwise it is pretty easy to put up a couple of layers in photoshop and swith between the 2 States.

  To fix, I created the document with all 5 chandeliers on 3 separate layers. There is an on/off status for 5 sections of wallpaper on the back layer. An on/off status for each chandelier on the middle layer and a top layer that darkens the type (when the light is extinguished in 20% 5 times).

  I then placed a button that performs all 3 power States for each chandelier. Either by clicking on the button turns on the light, clear the wallpaper and illuminates the text. clicking twice darkens. And any combination of switch on/off the lights works seamlessly.

  The problem I was experiencing above was due to the fact that the software converts the flat images of transparent images in PNG and JPEG formats, so to lose all the data layer on the effects. This was the only work-around, I could think of to solve the problem, but if someone can suggest a less complicated approach, it would be good to know.

• Apply changes to multiple pictures at once

  I'm not sure when this happened, but I just got back from vacation and I tried to apply a preset to a group of photos. It applied only to the first picture. I know that I was able to do this in the past so I was wondering if it has changed in an update or in the preferences. I had version 2.6 and it did not work and I've just updated to version 2.7 and it still does not. Does anyone have any insite? I don't want you must manually add the same settings to 800 photos! Thanks in advance.

  Suggestion of Beat it's even better!  (This is because he knows even better LR that I do).

  It's the help doc (search help for 'sync'):

  Synchronize settings with multiple photos

  If you work in the development or the library module, you can use the Synchronize command to apply some development parameters of the current photo to other photos selected in the Filmstrip. (The current photo is indicated by a white border more light in the miniature of the film).

  Note: When only one photo is selected in the film, the sync settings command is not available. In the develop module, the sync button becomes the back button; in the library module, the sync settings button is inactive.

  Shift-click to select the other pictures on the Filmstrip to synchronize with the current photo and then do one of the following:

  • In the develop module, click the sync button, or choose settings > sync settings. Select the settings to copy, and then click on synchronize.
  • In the module development, Ctrl + click (Windows) or Cmde (Mac OS) the sync button to change it to the Auto Sync button. Then, drag the sliders or make adjustments to the current photo, and the same adjustments are automatically made to the other selected photos. Click the Auto Sync button to exit Auto Sync.
  • In the library module, click the sync settings button, or choose Photo > develop settings > sync settings. Select the settings to copy, and then click on synchronize.
    All the settings that you may have previously selected or deselected in the copy settings dialog box are also defined by default in the dialog box sync settings.

  If you don't want to apply the changes to all images, then select only some of them.  If you want to only check the settings you want to update in the Synchronization dialog box only apply some settings to multiple images.

  John

• FaceTime Camera: the green light next to the camera makes a slow blink, and there is no picture

  MacBook (retina, 12 inch, early 2015) El Capitan 10.11.5 now ongoing enforcement.

  Whenever I try to access the camera FaceTime (FaceTime, Photo Booth Apps) the green light next to the camera made a slow blink, and there is no picture.

  The system report > camera > model ID: Apple camera VendorID_0x106B ProductID_0x1570

  The numbers of the vendor and the product are correct?

  The camera worked for 6 months passed and I used FaceTime several times without problem.  Several users are affected.

  None of the recent changes to the system.

  Since the problem began, I have:

  (1) installed Skype to see if one application other than an Apple app had a camera problem. Skype has no camera or.

  (2) improved 10.10.4 to El Capitan Yosemite.  Hoping that the upgrade would reload the application Face Time.   No change in symptoms

  (3) reinstalled the El Capitan using the OS X Internet recovery.  I have not used the time Machine.

  (Note for everyone, it was simple and painless and does not need to reinstall applications.)  I want to reinstall MS OS was too simple)

  (4) several other threads suggested to reset NVRAM and SMC memory, even if they do not seem to be associated with the prob. who - without success here tried either

  Any advice to determine whether it is hardware or software?  Still dig while you wait for a response.

  Note: This problem is not resolved

  Also, over How to troubleshoot the iSight - Apple Support .  Any assistance to the problem.

• Why the Photos app saves multiple copies of pictures?

  Why the Photos app saves multiple copies of pictures?

  What system and Photos version do you use?

  Where are these pictures?  How did they enter the photo library?

  Where and how do you see these multiple copies.

  

• Why the rejection of multiple photos doesn't work anymore when you change pictures?

  Why the rejection of multiple photos doesn't work anymore when you change pictures? Does anyone else have this problem? It works on my other Mac but just stop working on my computer laptop pro, I have the latest OS and it worked until a few weeks ago. Thanks for any help!

  Selection of several photos at once enter "9" to reject all still works them for me in Aperture 3.6 on El Capitan.

  Have you tested, if the problem occurs only in an Aperture library or libraries opening?

  Create a new Aperture library to test and see rejection, so it works.

  If it does not work in a new library either, I got trash Aperture preferences.

  In preferences file is now in the container folder in the user's library.

  Try this:

  • Leave the opening runs.
  • Then open your user library and delete the folder complete ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.Aperture/
  • and the ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.Aperture.plist file

  Your user library can still be hidden. To reveal the hidden user library:

  • Bring the Finder to the front by clicking on the desktop or the Finder icon in the Dock.
  • Select your folder user/home (with the House icon in the side bar of the Finder)
  • With this window in the Finder in the front window, press the ⌘J key combination to bring up the display options.
  • In the view options panel allow you to "show the library folder. That will make your visible user library folder in your folder.
  • Open your folder, then the library folder, then the containers.
  • Move the entire folder ~/Library/Containers/com.apple.Aperture on your desktop. Move the entire folder, not just the content.
  • Delete ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.Aperture.plist as well.

  Now, restart the Mac, start Aperture and try see your book.  If all goes well, delete the folder on the desktop.

  Re: Viewer has been reduced mode Photobook