Body of L ' goal and EOS Rebel T3i

I asked a lot of questions here, haha.
But I'm here with another question. So, I did a little research on the net about the use of the ' goal with a t3i and quite a few people say that they work well together? So objective L are not recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
I recently bought the T3i and I want just a good lens. Preference for landscape photos. I'm also a few sports, low light and portrait photos.
Suggestions for the landscape and all around the lens of photography would be great ():

For landscape photography people often want to use a lens wide angle. Not always, there is no rule that says you can't use anything else. I say "it's usually the first thing that comes to mind

One of the best wide angles that you get to use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an 'L' but it doesn't matter.

I suspect that what you have said about the use of an L series lens is due to the factor of cropping of your device photo, as has been suggested by several other responses. L - series will work fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are models 'full frame', by definition. Therefore, none of the L will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So, when people hear 'landscape', they suggest something else that a L-series.

You have four different purposes: landscape, sport, low light and portrait. The whole point of a DSLR as your T3i is to be able to Exchange lenses, to be able to adjust the camera for use in different situations. So I would say not to try to do it with a lens, but to look more lenses (some of which are Ls), which should ultimately give you better results. For example...

Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.

Sport: 70-200/4, 70-200 / 4L, 70-200/2.8, 70-200 / 2.8 L IS II, 100-400 L IS, 300/4 L IS.

Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, IS 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.

Portrait (Frank): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.

Portrait (studio): EF - S 15-85 IS, the EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

Portrait (environment): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.

Versatile lens 'walk-around': EF-S 15-85 is... or, according to what the other lenses you get, EF - S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70 / 4L IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

There are many different ways to set up a lens kit. For example, maybe you just like a wide point of view than the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead, you can choose the lens EF-S 15-85 mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraits.

A 'minimum' kit I often hang out with a camera of harvest is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w / 1. 4 X teleconverter and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.

When I'm shooting, what I do for the most part with crop sensor cameras, I usually wear: 10-22 mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are the IS 70-200/2.8 and 300/4 IS. (In some cases I use also 70 - 200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS).

For the portrait with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.

Your camera can use all the EF-S and EF, including all of the L-series lenses. But just because a lens will fit and work does not mean it is the best choice for your application. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be useless... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... but not really give you the best performance, maybe even less. For example, a 16-35 / 2.8 L II is a wonderful goal on a FF camera, but it makes little sense to buy for use on a device of harvest. For less money, you can either get a lens that is really wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers a little wider range of focal lengths and IS (EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS) has.

Depth of field in fact is not directly conducted by sizes of sensors of different cameras. What changes in depth of field are: focal length, Aperture and the distance about the goal. If you are looking for the low depth of field (blur a background for a portrait, for example), it takes a large aperture and a longer lens... and more you are close to the material the more shallow depth of field will be. If, however, you want lots of depth of field (for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length... and more you are from the individual (within reasonable limits), will be the deepest depth of field.

Where full-frame sensor vs cultures comes into force now is that for the same subject, framing with a crop sensor, that we need to stand further away with a given focal length, or if the same shooting distance will use a shorter focal length. In both cases, the result is 'less' depth of field, but it is an indirect result of different sensor size.

Have fun shopping and learning about your new camera!

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, California, USA.
«Market softly and carry a great lens.»
MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

Tags: Canon Camera

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