Digitized photographs

Similar Questions

• How to determine the number of pixels of an object in a digital photograph?

  Hello world. I want to determine the number of pixels in an object that is part of a digital photo. I use cameras to film of ice pieces, breaking with tide glaciers or ice cliffs. I want to know the size of the ice segment that capture my digital photos. I know that the width and height of the cliff of ice in metres already, so I thought that I could convert the equivalent of 1 pixel:? m is really what I want to do. This way, whenever I see a block of ice, breakup, I can pull up the photo, describe the piece, calculate how many pixels to fill the area of ice removed by piece break and convert into zone meters 2 - giving me my order of size. If anyone has any ideas on how to do really, I would appreciate it thanks so much community. I thought Photoshop or Fireworks might help me with this, Ricky

  Make your selection

  Select the histogram tab, and then click the symbol at the top right.

  Choose expanded view

  See this:

  

• Problems with digital photographs.

  Hi, I have a HP Officejet 6500 a fax, scanner, printer. Whenever I scanned a photo and it has sent or put on facebook,

  the photo is very small and there is a lot of white around the image. I wish it were the same size as the photo; not all white space.  Is there anyway to increase the size of the pixels? I'm not scan saavy. Thank you ~.

  Hello

  Have you tried to save them on your computer? How they look like. I think as your pictures do not cover the entire surface of glass and cover is white, so you have all white little around scanned pictures. You may need to crop photos before downloading, or emailed to them. You have a photo editing software on your computer? Otherwise, there are many free tools around such as these:

  http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/pixelbasedwin/TP/freephotoedw.htm

  Kind regards.

• Date and time of change of batch

  Mac running El Capitan with the latest version of Photo

  When I try to batch change date and time on some old 50 photos that have been digitized on days different and downloaded in the library of my pictures the results aren't good. The days and hours can vary a lot.

  When I checked and changed a lot of photos that have been taken or analyzed the day everything seems to work fine. Why? Is there a simple work around?

  If you do not change the dates butare, added dates for digital photographs (Digital Photos do not have EXIF/IPTC data then do not use the control change time data - using the user script Script: batch change Date and time on a fixed Date )

  LN

• export photos scans into iphoto. HP Photosmart D110a. Latest version of mac.

  I am a user of MAC OS x-7-5.  Recently updated software HP HP download Photosmart D110a fm all in one.  Download went well past that all functions work using wireless for Mac under roof using Verizon MIFI.

  With the previous software, I could export the digitized photographs directly into Iphoto.  Now, not so much.  Cumbersome to go to a place is and then import them into Iphoto.  Is there a HP or third-party solution that will restore this function?

  Appreciate the help.

  Hi Wanderboy, I was just wondering if you still have the original disc supplied with your printer?  When the software and updated on the web page of HP drivers, some changes could take effect with the over all performance of the software.  If you still have the original disk, I suggest that do you a complete uninstall and then reinstall using the disc that came with the printer and see if that solves your problem.

  If this proves unsuccessful, please write back and I'll be more than happy to provide assistance in this regard more far.

  Thank you

  Waterboy71

• Adobe product on iPad Pro to measure the area, perimeter, length of the elements in a photo?

  I currently use Adobe Acrobat X on a PC to measure the area and perimeter of the elements in a digital photograph.  Want the same functionality for measuring on iPad Pro.

  I don't think, but I don't know there are a few app not Adobe somewhere that can be done for a little money and it can even direct measures fancy stuff support thanks to the camera.

  Mylenium

• How to propagate a collection in Lightroom Mobile custom sort order?

  I've created several collections in Adobe Lightroom on my desktop in order to show people a few selected images on various subjects and themes on my mobile. I am adding images in the collections that I find in no particular order and then sorting in my desired order and groupings.

  Many of these images on my computer are not in order of date because they are scans of original film or digital photographs of old prints.  It would be difficult to assign an 'original' digital image date because many of these images are difficult to date, it is easier to drag the images in my order of preference.

  On my mobile devices (iPhone and iPad) images displayed in order of addition to the collection not my custom sort order. How can I make sure that the display on my mobile order is identical to the desktop computer please?

  Have you tried to change the options for sorting Lr Mobile to 'order '? -Guido

• Move and rename photos in Lightroom?

  Question in two parts:

  1. After you have imported a few thousand digitized photographs, then added the dates of proper creation and other metadata, I want to rename and organize photos into folders in the same way the import process works.  My import preset renames each file in the form YYYY-MM-DD-nnnnn where nnnnn is a sequence number and where the date is taken from the metadata in the imported file.

  When originally, I imported the images scanned in Lightroom, they had no meaning creation dates (01/01/1970) so I do not rename this day here.  Now, I want to rename each image file named "foo.jpg" like YYYY-MM-DD - foo.jpg.

  How do I select a large number of files and rename them all according to a rule like that?

  2. my import preset also the imported image files in a folder/subfolder named YYYY/YYYY-MM-DD;  After you rename the files analyzed, supra, I would like to move to the aptly named folder/subfolder.  How can I do?

  If I can't rename/move files in Lightroom, I could

  a. do these manipulations outside of Lightroom... in the Finder, with other tools... but then catalogue Lightroom will not be able to find its image files.

  b. export the images, then import with my preset, but I fear that I would lose the metadata in the process.

  all ideas welcome

  Suggestions, there may be better ways!

  Q1.  Select one or more images, press F2

  

  If [Date - name of file] shot in the wrong date, create a renaming custom such as [name of the Custom - file name], then type the date under the name of "Custom" in your desired format YYYYMMDD.

  Q2. Create folders with required dates (right click on a folder 'Master' YYYY), drag images with the corresponding date on his record.

  

• Open the file in .psd PhotoShop CS6 currpt/no:(mon travail beaucoup)

  Hi friends,

  Today accidentally my photoshop has closed at this moment there, I work on my model of the last 2 months demo work, so once again, I open my file .psd is the guest of the error "Could not complete your request because the file is not compatible with this version of photoshop".

  Several times, I'm trying, but it can not open my .psd file. If someone in the face of this type of problem or have any solution for this problem I'll be very grateful to you, of course its my two months of hard work.

  Thank you

  Here is something that is works in many cases. You will use fires of artifice to open and re - save the Photoshop file. This will fix the majority of corruptions.

  Open the corrupted Photoshop file in Fireworks.

  Fireworks lets save the .psd Photoshop format. (Important: do not save a Fireworks file or another extension, because Photoshop may not recognize the layers, or you could lose data.)

  Don't forget to give your file a different name when recording, so you will not overwrite the original. (A good idea would be to create a backup of your original before trying this procedure).

  Open your newly created file in Photoshop.

  Do not forget that many effects will not show in Fireworks, but should appear in Photoshop layers.

  If that does not work, try to look at the answer here: http://www.filerepairforum.com/forum/adobe/adobe-aa/photoshop/590-restoring-a-corrupted-ps "d-file"

  Try a repair tool:

  PSD repair kit is the ultimate Adobe PSD repair tool that is a must - have for any artist, digital, photographer or other professional working with numerous PSD files.

  For more information: http://www.psd.repair/

• What photoshop is for beginners and not the expensive full version?

  What photoshop is for beginners and not the expensive full version?

  Depending on what you want to achieve, there are also 4 of Lightroom.

  Comparing CS6, Lightroom and elements, Adobe says:

  Q:  How Adobe Photoshop, Photoshop Extended, Photoshop Elements, and different software Photoshop Lightroom?

  A: Photoshop Elements 11 (US$ 99) is designed for those who is just getting started with digital photo and editing book powerful yet easy to use options that help you to organize, edit, create, share and protect your personal photos.

  Photoshop CS6 (US$ 699) is the professional standard to create and manipulate powerful images and Photoshop CS6 Extended (US$ 999) offer everything in Photoshop as well as tools for creating and editing objects and images in 3D.

  Photoshop Lightroom 4 (US$ 149) meets the needs of workflow of professional and amateur photographers, allowing them to import, process, organize and quickly introduce large quantities of digital photographs or develop a single image.

  And they also have a page that sums up the best uses for each product. This article even more deeply penetrates in the comparison. I hope it's useful!

• Batch processing photos in Photoshop elements 11

  Hello world

  I have been digitized in lots of old photos of the end.  Many (probably all) of them would benefit from applying the filter "dust & scratches", but it does not appear as an option in the "treat multiple files" menu drop-down.  I have heard of "autohotkey" being used as an alternative mechanism to perform the processing in batches, but could not find an example online that works with Photoshop elements 11.  Someone at - it care to share tips on how I can automatically process my digital photographs in a way that does not "treat multiple files?

  Thanks in advance for any help that anyone can provide.

  Best regards

  Andrew.

  A passerby who i have done this is to use the photoshop EPS 11 Image Processor script.

  (only works in PES 11 or perhaps future versions of photoshop elements)

  You can download PES 11 Image Processor.zip, extract the file (right click on the zip file, then press to extract all)

  https://workspaces.Acrobat.com/?d=ZOP9CgDC38plXHju4uVLkQ

  and then copy the Image Processor.jsx to:

  C:\Program Files (x 86) \Adobe\Photoshop elements 11\Presets\Scripts (64-bit version of windows 8)

  C:\Program Adobe Photoshop éléments 11\Presets\Scripts (32-bit version of windows 8)

  Start or restart pse11 and in the Expert mode, it should appear under file > automation tools > Image Processor

  (an image doesn't have to be open to run the script)
  

  Then we just need to know if you want the dust and scratches to use the same settings to all the time or you want to be able to adjust the filter between the photos.

  (so that we can send you the action to use with the image processor)

  The image processor is similar to the process mutiple fles except you can choose to perform the action you have loaded in the window > Actions on the processed photos.

  

  

• For Web use color management

  I'm sorry if this has been posted elsewhere, but I was unable to find it. It's a bit hard to find when I don't know exactly how to explain the problem.

  My problem is that I see too much difference between the images in Photoshop and the same file in web browsers. The problem seems to double. The shadows of images are appearing where blotchy, as it appears in photoshop. This is especially true in the pictures with a lot of digital noise like a digital photograph shot at high ISO. The second problem is that images appear much more contrasting in web browsers than in photoshop. This is particularly noticeable monochrome images of high contrast in photoshop as the web browser pushes the contrast levels in the Kingdom of clipping and burn.

  I'll explain my material and the workflow so that you can get an idea where the problem might be. I shoot a Canon 20 d. I am running Windows 7 64 bit with a Benq 21 '' LED monitor. RAW conversion in Digital Photo Professional (although I have transformed my raw files in Photoshop for troubleshooting reasons and had the same problems). I convert my raw to tiff 8-bit files and open in Photoshop CS5 (also troubleshooted in CS3 with the same results) for the majority of my editing before converting small JPEG for web use where they are displayed in the current version of Firefox.

  The final jpeg always look great in Photoshop, but as soon as I open them in Firefox or one of Windows Photo Viewer they look terrible. I do not understand that Photoshop displays the ICC profile image where that most web browsers don't not/can not. That's why I convert my JPEG files in sRGB (I normally shoot in AdobeRGB) I was under the impression that an application not CM as a web browser would show everything in sRGB as is the internet standard. So what I see in Photoshop while displaying a picture listed for sRGB should be the same as in an environment not CM surely? For reasons of test I tried to process the unidentified images, but the same questions always came.

  Unfortunately my monitor is not shaped as I can't currently afford equipment. Back when I was in uni, we used Spyder, but it's just out of my means. Even though I think most of the people might be inclined to this blame on the lack of monitor profiling, I have my doubts. My problems are rarely found in different colors. I even experimented with changing the gamma settings while having one of the images open in Firefox. No gamma level, no matter how extreme, makes a lot of difference to the blotchyness of my shadow. Not only that, but profiling seems to aim at the synergy between the screen and print. I don't know how it could help bridge the gap between software.

  My wife has the exact same pc than me and even monitor (although hers is LCD and LED mine) and the same problems exist when it displays images. I noticed the images look good on my laptop on Firefox. This makes me wonder if the modern LCD monitors General contrast and brightness levels bring the problems I didn't know I had when editing on a laptop (I had to move countries and that's all I had unfortunately). What worries me is any image on that I have to work hard will always terrible look on the web for someone of another look at one of my images on a modern monitor. Really, I rely on the use of the web to get my content out there. Right now, they are actually more urgent for me to get the prints to the right. If people cannot take advantage of the image on the screen, they will never want to print.

  I hope it was the right place to post such a thing. This is clearly not for the lack of Photoshop that it manages to display more information than the other pieces of software in my images. I just thought that others may have had similar experiences. I'm not professional when it comes to Photoshop or photography, but I have a good few years of experience and education behind me in the topic. It seems I've reached the limit of what I can do here. It actually feels kind of pathetic for something as simple as to a jpeg of an image of high quality for the web allows only to stumble and fall.

  I find myself baffled and confused. I welcome any help on the subject and I thank you all in advance.

  Where do you have a v4 profile in this string?

  Anyway this is much like a monitor profile problem. What are you helping? He is the one that is provided by Benq (which I wouldn't trust for a second), or the default sRGB to Windows? You can find in Control Panel > color management. If this is the swap of profile of Benq for sRGB and working with it until you can afford a calibrator (you can get one for just $90 BTW).

  Normally there will be no difference between Photoshop and Firefox because they are both fully color managed and handled the same way: the document profile is converted on the monitor profile on the fly, and that is what is sent to the screen. But Firefox is known for interpreter sometimes hurt the monitor profile.

  You should also know that if your document profile is the same as your monitor profile (for example, they are the two sRGB), you basically have a managed without color string. So all appear identically with this configuration, Photoshop, Firefox, IE, no matter.

• PSE9 how to organize the Organizer?

  Hello to all PES of the guru,

  I am a new user and I'm sure that my question is very comon, but I don't know how to look for it.

  As a digital photographer, I have several unique photoss thousands on my hard drive.

  After the purchase of the PES 9 I 'got photos' of files and folders, all on my hard drive

  is organized into folders (just the way I like it) and load them into EPS.

  The problem is that I can't seem to understand how to display my well organized files and jpeg files?

  One might think that the PES would have a way to go straight to the file manager and allow me to choose the file

  I want to edit or print or another IE change. But it's all a big mess in PSE, thousands of files

  all together. What happened to my large file/folder system?

  Do worse, question if it could be worse because it looks like I'm a 100 dollars with a system that is

  practically unusable for my existing files. I go to the file menu drop down and search for files in a specific

  folder! But when the time comes for the Organizer to load my files it gives me below error window

  and don't tell me where, in the devil, the files are in post-secondary studies.

  I don't know there is a very simple answer to my question, I've seen several tutorials on the Organizer, but perhaps I have

  you missed one on how to actually to files in a specific system folder in this tool?

  Thanks in advance,

  -Ross

  

  Click on the display button (close to upper-right in the menu Organizer) and select display folder location

  You can then view the contents of one of the oldest at the same time.

• PE9 - resizing pictures - poor quality on the slideshow

  Hello.  I am desperate need help!

  I make a DVD from video and digital photographs and am having a problem with the picture quality in the final result.  The stills are digital images from a camera of professional photographers are so super clear and sharp.  I got resize them batch that there is a certain (as I did in the past) and once they are put into the project and burn to disk (as I just run a few test drives), they are pixelated and blurry.

  I have used before to PE4 and don't remember which is a problem.  I don't know if I'm doing something wrong in my resizing IE wrong type or file size, but I find it really frustrating because they are pictures but get blurry on an LCD TV.  I have older scanned photos in the project as well and I am happy with their clarity for the age, etc.

  Is this a problem of setting on my project?  I also use a camera Canon Legria HD video footage.  Clarity is not great on TV, but I can live with that.  There is an output parameter that I'm missing?  I run some tests before I'll import all digital images any input would be greatly appreciated.

  I noticed some discussion here and also on Muvipix previously, but I can't seem to find an answer to my problem.

  Thank you and best regards,

  Rachel

  Since you are using a mix of photos and hi-def video, you will need to make your photos hi-def to adapt to your project:

  1) go to Edition/Preferences/general and uncheck the option to scale stops at the size of the image. (You must do this before you add your photos to your project.)

  (2) make sure that all your photos are 1440 x 1080 pixels of size. Import into your project.

  (3) place your photos on your timeline. (For best results, as I say in my books, do a right-click on each photo and select Options/Apply flicker removal field.)

  (4) make your project (press enter). The red lines above the clips on your timeline becomes green and you will be able to see your slide show in full quality playbacfk.

  If you are using pans and zooms around your photos - or if you want that they extend to the entire width of your video image and purge on the top and the bottom - you can use pictures as large as 2000 x 1500 pixels in size.

  And don't forget to right click on the video on the monitor, and then select overview of quality!

• Beginner in need of some help please

  Hi, I'm a slow analog photographer in a digital photographer so please forgive my ignorance.

  I want to create a calendar, so I downloaded a template from the adobe web site. The problem I have is that the type of file I downloaded is an .indd file type and I have no idea how open it in Photoshop CS4.

  Can anyone please point me in the right direction or suggest an alternative model.

  Many thanks and Merry Christmas. (o).

  Here, it should be the same file saved as pdf... hope it works.