Modding administered a LGS326 - to THE switch to run from 12V DC supply.

Hi all

(Type this message again as the 'Preview' button has lost the original on me. Silly me thought 'Preview' meant "Show me what the message looks like" not "delete the message and show me a preview pane empty instead. My bad.  Edit: It would be because Linksys decided to spray on 50 domains JavaScript so NoScript says no.  What is wrong to put the JavaScript code on community.linksys.com with HTML code)?

I'm implementing a cluster of virtual machines as an exercise in self-education. As an additional technical challenge, I design the system to run with 240V solar power backup. So ideally the whole system will have to run from 12V, coming from a battery of 100Ah. I'll expand on that later.

Now, I did research the area and apart from some industrial switches which were mostly 100 Mbps and very expensive, there is almost no manageable offered 24 gigabit ports + held of the 12V. There is a possible market for Linksys. I don't need industrial design temperatures.

After some research, I found myself buy a LGS326-UA, which runs the industry normally. It's 90% of what I'm after. 4 gal can do but I can work around that, it has sufficient capacity of VLAN for what I want.

Out of curiosity, I cracked open box to see if it was possible to modify it to run from 12V. That's what I found: https://hackaday.io/project/10529/log/34622-modding-the-switch-for-12v-operation

So the switch supports internally, 240V to 12V, then probably goes down after 3.3V / 5V. So certainly doable - warranty is not my concern here.

I have a few regulators IDO (Micrel 29750) coming that should handle this. I probed around with a multimeter and can identify it seems to be a split of power supply 12 v on two pairs of drivers with non-standard color coding, so I'll have to move carefully, some tough filtering (a Bank of low ESR electrolytic) should do.

Did anyone here tried a similar amendment before? All boards/traps to watch out for?

(Edit to correct the really bad formatting.  Once more, in this world of vulnerabilities XSS, really should we spread the code 50 ways to Sunday?)

Well, I did it.  For those who were wondering what the answer is, it should be a good starting point.  Essentially, the green/yellow wires are wires are the 0V and Red/Black + 12V.  They are parallel connections together, filled on both sides.  If you're unsure, you can check by returning the motherboard to the wire and looking for one of the pins on the electrolytic capacitors; the negative sides are marked, and you should find that there is a short to 0V on the negative side.

Given there are a couple of supplies of switchmode step 12V down to the 5V and 3.3V, you are probably safe to go below 12V, I found myself using a small reg IDO, which keeps the power slightly lower at 12V and so far, the switch works fine.  No magic smoke yet. :-)

The full project details are available here: https://hackaday.io/project/10529/log/36511-12v-regulator-installation

Tags: Linksys Products

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