Properties 'speed-boosting.

Similar Questions

• Pavillion A1620Y - speed boost?

  Looking for ways to speed up the PC.

  My question is in fact installed AMI BIOS, version 3.23, dated 30/11/2006 Date supports Intel Pentium D 9XX processors?

  If not, is there an update available that makes?

  I'm not a gamer, so this old PC of five years with a limit of 2 GB by the motherboard still did the job for me.

  But I want to make it progressively faster that the cost to do so is low.

  At currently Pentium 4 631 with two gigabytes of memory PC2-4200 and the graphical subsystem integrated (Xpress 200)

  I plan to replace the PC2-5300 memory to upgrade the rate at 333 MHz 266.

  Add ATI Radeon X 1300 to unload the graphic work of the computer.

  And I would exchange the Pentium 4 to a Pentium d

  I think that memory is a simple Exchange.

  And this video card, well that dated, should be of assistance to single speed.

  But I don't know if the processor can only be swapped.

  The motherboard specs say it's gone, but I do not know the BIOS.

  The cost of the above is likely to be $40 or less, so if I can get a twenty percent speed boost, it is worth.

  Thanks in advance for help!

  Hawkeye, welcome to the forum.

  The processor should work fine with the existing BIOS.  If necessary change the BIOS, HP would not list as an upgrade.

  Memory is always the best performance for your money.  However, I'm not sure that just change the speed and do not increase the amount of memory, will boost performance as much as you want.  The dedicated video card free of shared system memory.  So, this will definitely boost performance.

• Increase the speed of the MacBook Air?

  What is the best way to give a speed boost to my Macbook Air?

  Hello

  Make sure that OS X is updated.

  Open system preferences > App Store, and then click check now

• Using Thunderbolt, powered by an external hard drive to speed up the workflow?

  I have a new crush external hard drive which is almost twice the speed of my MacBook Pro 2011. What needs to be stored there to enjoy the speed boost? Is it just the RAW copied on my SD card images or catalogue will also be hosted on?

  If anyone knows video tutorials for this please post.

  See you soon,.

  Mark

  Hi Tetlow,

  Yes both the catalog and the original files must be on the disk.

  Thank you

• Satellite L305-S5939: bridge & Speedboost Vista card media adapter

  I just bought a Satellite L305-s5939 and forgot to consult it when I bought it.
  Before I opened the box, I wanted to understand two things.

  First of all, what is a bridge of media card adapter?
  He said that this computer has one on the specifications.
  This means - it is not built in and I have to put the adapter whenever I want to use?

  Second adapter of this type does not allow the use of Speedboost for Vista.
  I just assumed that all laptops had standard built in memory card readers, but it read adapter bridge and makes me nervous.

  I thank you,
  P.

  Hey Buddy

  It is a Toshiba laptop model we
  I put t know exactly the specifications of L305 card reader but it should support the
  4-in-1 Bridge Media Slot. This property supports the:
  -Cards-secure Digital (SD)
  -Secure Digital High Capacity (SDHC) cards
  -Memory Stick
  -Memory Stick PRO
  -Multi Media Card [MMC]

  If you want to know how to use the panoramas speed boost then check this page from Microsoft:
  http://www.Microsoft.com/Windows/Windows-Vista/features/ReadyBoost.aspx

  This page could be useful too:
  + Using memory in your storage device to speed up your computer.
  http://windowshelp.Microsoft.com/Windows/en-us/help/12428141-2e4c-43ab-8dd2-a6ed6e3b87761033.mspx

• My 2013 iMac 27 inch runs very slowly

  My iMac (27-inch, late 2013, with a 3.2 GHz Intel Core i5 processor) has been gradually slowing down for a while. I get the dreaded beach ball a lot, sometimes by what seems to be really simple things. Today I left it on when running only Safari. I woke up, I got a message from the system that I was running on the memory of the application and must force quit some applications. With 24 GB RAM available, which didn't make sense to me (I had recently installed 16 GB of RAM (2 x 8) OWC in addition to the original 8 GB (2 x 4), for a total of 24 GB of memory).

  I am running OS X El Capitan (10.11.2). I think I can inadvertently installed some malicious programs. AppleCare is still in force.

  As conditions gradually got worse ovewr the past few months, I tried:

  • Drive 4 Pulse, indicating, I had critical hardware issues, but I never got their thing Bootwell to work, even with the help of their support team. They recommended that replace the hard drive.
  • Apple support. Thay suggested I run Apple Diagnostics, but when he finds nothing wrong, they couldn't do anything. At the time it wasn't that bad and I didn't really drag a 27-inch iMac down to the Genius Bar for help.
  • SpeedTools Utilities Pro. It seemed easier to use than driving impulses. Running a live scan, he finds 54 501 bad sectors on my hard drive of 1 TB. But still, nothing showed on Apple Diagnostics.

  After watching a few discussions re slow iMacs support group today, I learned EtreCheck, downloaded and ran a report. I'll post as a suite.

  My memory really once again, so I am posting this today.

  "Clean apps" or "speed boost" utility are scams, so I would remove such software.

  Please post this report EtreCheck when you get a chance if anyone can help identify a culprit for the slow downs.

• Second monitor is not detected after upgrade to Windows 10

  After you have installed Windows 10 upgrade Windows 7, my second monitor is no longer functional. The computer is an HP Touch Smart 610-1065qd. I connect on the second monitor through a USB 2.0 Port Replicator 2005pr HP. The Replicator appears as a drive when you look at this PC and an arbitrator in him like HP USB DOCK, as it did in Windows 7. The Replicator seems to work, I can't access the SSD on the device and use a wireless mouse. The receiver is connected to the port replicator. The second monitor, also connected to the Replicator, as it was before the upgrade. Now the system is unable to detect this monitor. The MANAGER of peripheral DEVICES, MONITORS, indicates there is a monitor Active, listed as "PnP monitor" generic Device Manager displays a second monitor as a hidden device. Identified as a "generic PnP monitor' and the State of the device is"currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45) ». In Windows 7, I don't remember the second monitor listing. USB and the DISPLAY NETWORK DEVICES, the entry is USB PORTS port REPLICATOR 2.0 HP 2005pr. Under GRAPHICS cards, there are two lists. The first is an adapter named "AMD Mobility Radeon HD 5570". This corresponds to my video card. The second adapter named "glance speed Boost. I believe that Ancestry.com can installed this. "This device is working properly" is the condition for both cards. I manually checked new drivers for all components. There is no effect. Then, I went to HP and downloaded the most recent Setup to monitor. I then tried to load the drivers and monitoring software. I also loaded the screen in compatibility mode, then in compatibility mode for Windows XP SP3, then compatibility for Windows 7 and finely mode as a regulator. As a result, I tried the same process with the original disc. After each test, I rebooted the system. Still unable to detect the second monitor, nothing in Device Manager and unable to detect a new monitor on screen. I attempt to change the Projection. He also, had no effect on the display. Then, I deleted graphics cards. First of all, the adapter "AMD Mobility Radeon HD 5570", which corresponds to my video card. Second, the "Speed Boost glance. This also, don't give not any what on second monitor display. Even if it is visible only when show it hidden devices is checked. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

  I finely found a fix for the problem to my question; Second monitor, not detected after upgrade to Windows 10. Not the one I was hoping. It turns out that the fault was with the HP 2005pr USB 2.0 Port Replicator. It seems that the driver may be at fault. After more than a month of waiting, I decided to replace the duplicator. I decided to buy a Port adapter to replace the duplicator. What is much less expensive experiment and see if it was infecting the duplicator. It turned out that my second monitor is back and healthy. I decided to continue to use the port adapter and buy a USB Hub to replace this part of the duplicator. I no longer use the HD Audio output, after replacing the old speakers with Bose USB speakers some time ago. I thank everyone for help.

• HOWTO estimate of progress during the use of parallelism of the iteration?

  If I have a loop with the parallelism of iteration activated, is there a good method for updating a progress bar without eliminating the potential speed boost?  The naïve approach to divide the final iteration by the total number of iterations is going crazy when I paralellisme iteration.

  Altenbach says:

  I have a simple solution that I think I posted a long time ago. I'll try to dig up...

  Found here... 

• Upgrading RAM for E17 - E5 - 773 G - JA

  Hi guys,.

  So I recently bought a new laptop, thinking I'll upgrade them over time as I usually do with my gear. Apparently this isn't the best idea when you want (some?) laptops if you do not do your research. The laptop was offered for $600 instead of the usual $700 - $750, so I couldn't pass it.

  The particular problem with this laptop is: it is incredibly slow, thanks to both the standard hard drive and the meager 4 GB RAM... which is a shame, because it has a Core i5-6200U which should be pretty snappy.

  If he ends up by I can only improve the reader (it seems accessible, although that stuck in where no normal screwdriver went before) then so that it is, he will still for a large speed boost.

  The problem here lies in the fact I already bought the RAM and won't go back until I know that I can't upgrade the laptop myself, or at all - in case the memory is soldered on to 100%.

  For those who know what the computer laptop innards look like, when the tank is open until you will see 2 cables in the Middle as suicidal traps if you opened to the top of the enclosure too strong. Black flat cable seems vital and glued in place, so that the white/grey cable seems detachable. My thought is that there is a chance of memory banks being present on the underside of the motherboard... or they are welded, in which case my adventure ends.

  Of course I could have bought a laptop computer with more memory or a SSD already mounted in place. The idea was to stick it out 6-12 months, up to the largest size SSD come down in price and choose first update memory. Also my experiences with laptops is that they have a lower lock or the easily removable bottom plating that exposes the reader, the RAM module and a Wi - Fi connection. Lesson learned here.

  Questions:

  -The mobile individual has locations for DDR3L 1.35v memory modules or is existing memory soldered in place? I forgot something? So scalable, how can I remove the ribbons, especially the black ribbon, without damaging it?

  -Do not remove the back part of the lower shell cell phone? If it isn't, by unscrewing the motherboard will be a fight with tools that I currently have.

  -Did someone tried to replace the drive in the laptop and how did you go to this topic with removal of screws? I noticed at least 1 screw on the side that cannot be twisted unless you use some kind of tool to transfer 90 ° twist screw (don't know the name of it)

  -Not related to the topic: what would be the cloning tool better to actually clone the original disc work? I have heard some horror stories about the UEFI/BIOS can't see not the clone due to the identifiers of order and whatnot.

  Thank you!

  1600 DDR3L 1.35v, Max is 16 GB, 2 slots

  Acer memory reference numbers

  SODIMM 2 GB DDR3L 1600 ACR16D3LFS1KBG / 2G KN.2GB0G.045

  SODIMM 2 GB HMT425S6CFR6A-PB DDR3L 1.35V KN.2GB07.015

  SODIMM 4G ACR16D3LS1KNG / 4G DDR3L 1.35V KN.4GB0G.029

  SODIMM 4 GB DDR3L 1600 M471B5173EB0-YK0 KN.4GB07.023

  4G HMT451S6BFR8A-PB DDR3L 1.35V KN.4GB0B.034 SODIMM

  SODIMM 8G ACR16D3LS1KNG / 8G DDR3L 1.35V KN.8GB07.022

  The back of the laptop does not come off. The keyboard/palm rest detaches and the motherboard needs to be removed, because the memory is on the lower side.

  An SSD is easier even if you still have to remove the keyboard-based-wrists.

  You can replace the drive for an SSD, or you can install an SSD of m2.

  M.2 SSD Acer part numbers

  THE 128 GB SSD - M 6G RBU-SNS8100S3/128GDM.2 KN.1280L.011

  THE 128 GB SSD - M L8T-128L9G FW:H871201 6 G 228 KN.12807.010

  THE 256 GB SSD - M M.2 RBU-SNS8100S3/256GD 6G KN.2560L.010

  THE 256 GB SSD - M L8T-256L9G FW:H881201 6 G 228 KN.25607.010

  I use True Image HD in 2014 and it has never failed me.

• The good old Vista 32-bit and 4 GB Ram dilemma.

  Then I started to get a grip on computers... (they interest me: P). back in ' 06, when Vista was first released, I bought a new computer from Dell. Meh, the computer was fine, I never really knew what the specifications mean in reality at the time, but the computer was just. Now, ' 09, I learned to change computers in order to increase its performance and what-not. I started to buy adding RAM... like most people do. I bought 2 x 2 GB RAM for a reasonable price and I was very happy to see the speed boost in my computer. I had a stick of 512 MB RAM on the inside so I just took that one and put in two 2 GB of RAM.

  I turned on the computer, and my boy I see a big difference. The first thing I notice is that I have only 3.5 GB of RAM which is used by my computer. I do a little research and found out that 3.5 GB is the limit for 32-bit operating systems. I was pretty sad. Anyway, I was still happy with what I got. One thing I noticed after installing the RAM was that most of my stuff was buggy to the top. In my dxdiag.exe, BIOS, PROCESSOR and other stuff as it seemed to say n/d I was puzzled and I also noticed that the display of network connectivity (one on bottom right) told me that I was not connected to a service at all. I was scared, but then my internet worked perfectly well.

  After leaving my computer on Defrag, my sound is messed up. Every time I started a program with a kind of ring to it, my sound would stutter like crazy. I have was bothered by this and decided to find out what was wrong. I tried to restart, System Restore and I tried to tinker with the RAM. I still had my original 512 MB of RAM, so I stuck that in and decided if that would fix the sound. I turn on my computer, but the sound is always messed up. I decided to install all available updates, I had and that did the trick. When I turned on my computer, I noticed that my RAM went from 3.5 to 3.0 GB RAM. I was seriously mad and I did everything to get it back to the 3.5 GB of RAM. I went back to my computer and took the 512 MB RAM on it but no luck.

  Someone care to explain this?

  Your BIOS is accessible outside of Windows. Its software on your motherboard. Restart your computer, and find the first screen that appears. It will usually give you a combination of keys to press to enter the "SETUP" or "Setting UP" or "BIOS". Most of the time, it's the DEL and F1 key, but it may vary depending on your system.

  Once you get into the BIOS, go to "configuration/basic information ',"System Overview,"or a page that details what the computer sees hardware wise.»

  If the 4 GB State, restart your computer and the response back.

  I got it, it says I have 4 GB of RAM installed, but it is still only showing me 3.0 GB RAM. I was also noted that the lack of RAM 1 GB in my VRAM I guess. So I guess I'll be stuck with the 3.0 GB, thanks for you help. Oh and how can I fix my sound?

  When I turn on my computer, my sound is all stuttery then when I open a specific program, the sound goes back to normal. And when I turn off this program, my sound will all stuttery again. The program is a game and I really want to solve this problem. No, it is not caused by the speakers, it is caused by the computer itself. Could my map its going to hurt? I only had this computer for 3 years. I'm starting to think that the RAM had something to do with this...

• can not disable unlock them wan application

  I have tried everything I know to unlock some throught windows firewall ports games, wall of fire nortens and through port forwarding router and I can't yet do be open or accessible can smoeone please help.

  and it's a router WRT54GS g-high speed with the speed booster

• Adding a new wireless router from Linksys at an old Linksys router system

  Hello

  I'll install a new standalone DVR to a home video surveillance system.  I would like to be able to access it with my current PC so I would like to add a Linksys wireless router.

  I'm currently 1 Linksys Wireless - G Broadband Router with speed Booster model WRT54GS-BP and 2 models WMP54GS from PC that have PCI adapters Wireless-G with speed Boosters (802.11 g).  I had these installed since 2006 and although they are no longer supported I really want to have to upgrade because they work very well.

  My questions are:

  If I add a new Linksys router to my new DVR will be able to communicate with my older Linksys router and adapters?   If Yes, what would be the best new router Linksys type should I buy?

  Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

  Hi Dan,.

  Please excuse the delay of time here, but I had a hard time to post a reply.  I added Ethernet Wireless-N - WET610N bridge.  When I installed the software, I kept getting error 102 - an error occurred communicating with your device.  I called Linksys for help and the tech had me make a few changes to the router 192.168.1.1.  I was able to install the Web Service to display the camera on both of our PC.  So the addition of the WET610N allowed us to access the DVR wireless!

  Thanks a lot for all your help!

• Performance increase using SSD for paging/extraction/cache or ReadyBoost? (Win7)

  Hi, have an extra 16 GB SATA SSD and you are looking for a way to add my PC performance.  It would be useful for me to free 16 GB of the drive, if possible, or maybe speed up the system by a notch or two. Thought I might be able to move the pagination (fetch? cache?) files for the SSD of alternatives to increase the primary disk space, or designate the replacement ssd as a device for a slight speed boost readyboost. Any suggestions?

  HW/OS SYSTEM
  Main C:\drive is Intel 160 GB SSD gen2
  Data drive is a traditional 7200 RPM SATA2 drive
  CPU i7-870, 8 GB of RAM uber-fast
  Under Windows7 Ultimate 64 bit

  Also have a Patriot zippy 16 gb USB key that I used to use as a device before readyboost I went to an SSD - ideas on how to make it useful?

  For any question on Windows 7:

  http://social.answers.Microsoft.com/forums/en-us/category/Windows7

  Link above is Windows 7 Forum for questions on Windows 7.

  Windows 7 questions should be directed to the it.

  You are in the Vista Forums.

  See you soon.

  Mick Murphy - Microsoft partner

• Dell Latitude D620 processor update...

  Hi all, great forum you have here...

  I have an old Dell Latitude D620 and I want to upgrade the processor.  The specifications are the following:

  • Intel Core 2 Duo T5500 (1.66 GHz) CPU
  • 2 GB RAM DDR2-800
  • 60GB OCZ Vertex 2 SSD
  • Windows 7 Professional

  Am I correct in thinking that I can go to any processor 667 Mhz FSB?  SO what would be the fastest processor I can get (I think Core 2 Duo 7400 and 7600)?

  Looking at the Intel 845 chipset GM compatible products (http://ark.intel.com/products/chipsets/22816) that they do, but I thought I'd better check here first before buying.  Change from 2 MB to 4 MB L2 cache would affect something?

  Thank you very much!

  Gareth

  Either people will work - just do not pay too much on the one hand, because the speed boost will be progressive - not dramatic.

• Compatibility M.2 SanDisk SSD X 400 with new XPS 8900 and cloning issues

  I just got a new 8900 XPS running and ordered a Sandisk X 400 1 TB SATA III M.2 drive for her.  I know, adding that a PCIE SSD with adapter would be much faster.  But I'm not a gamer and concentrate more on edge backup and storage.  And the new Sandisk card gets good reviews and should give a nice speed boost.  This will be my first attempt at cloning of a new boot disk and install an SSD.  I went through the forum and found some good information.  A few questions...

  One of the sons said that an SSD with the B and M keys (like this one) may not work.  Searching the Web I found no comments from anyone who has tried this particular SSD in a new XPS desktop.  No compatibility issues?

  Another thread has been posted problems with starting the XPS 8900, when you add a new disk, but the updated BIOS to 2.1.3 seemed to be the solution.  I confirmed that my machine already has this version of BIOS.  Once again, any concerns?

  My plan is to clone again SSD in the computer using Acronis or other software, then set as the boot drive in BIOS.  Is there a reason to delete the operating system of the C: drive, thereafter, or can just stay as a backup if problems occur with the SSD?

  I have already installed a few programs including MSOffice 2007 and Windows Essentials, so I can use the machine, but otherwise it is always very clean.  When I do the clone will be these OK execution since the SSD without much messing around?  And they will have to be uninstalled from the HARD drive?

  Thank you!

  X 8900-2508BLK
  I7-6700 / 3.4 GHz
  16 MB of RAM
  1 TB HARD DRIVE

  I'll answer some of my own questions.  The M400 Sandisk SSD drive arrived today and I found a screw M2x4 at Ace Hardware to install it with.  Installation was super simple.  I used a pair of pliers to hold the small screws in place and then a Jewelers screwdriver to fix it.

  He seemed to take more time for the first start that made me nervous, but all loaded without any problems.  I rebooted and that you press F2 to get into the BIOS and the new SSD was there!  And then let the computer loads Windows and checked Device Manager and it's still there!

  As expected the reader not yet appear in Windows because it was not formatted.  I used under Computer Management disk management to initialize the disk.  And now I have a new drive I: 935 GB free.

  So far so good.  Seems like the M400 Sandisk should work perfectly.

  Next step is to clone.  Always blazing new territory for me... when the drive is cloned it will remain I: or it will be C:?