Rebel T3i

Similar Questions

• Problem with flash Speedlite 320EX and EOS Rebel T3i (EOS600D)

  Hi, for about 18 months, I've used this combination without a single glitch or problem. I bought the Speedlite old second hand, and all died on me in Nov. The guy I bought said it was about 3-4 years wneh I t so I thought that I just replace the same model, but buy a new one this time.

  Since it seems however not the flash unit at full power at times and at others seems not synchronized with the shutter. Sometimes it works fine, but then doesn't flash at all or has a problem that I describe above. I have returrned the flash at the company and they said their technician checked and it works fine.

  Anyone else have these problems or indeed solved these problems? Any suggestions would be very welcome.

  Thank you in advance.

  PS. edited title because I just discovered the EOS600D called the EOS Rebel T3i in the USA. I'm from Scotland.

  Other wrote:

  Thanks, yes I tried to situate the flash every time, as well as all the parameters of compensation. What seems to work he left for 10 minutes, this iften solves the problem, and I can carry on shooting images for another period. So confusing and frankly boring.

  Bravo for the answer.

  Brian

  Ten minutes for each flash? In theory there could be something wrong with the condenser and the unit needs service.

  Ten minutes, then you can fire flashes several before he had to rest again? Most likely, the batteries are weak or inappropriate to the task. Make sure you use Eneloop pros. Most serious photographers think that there is nothing better.

• Would you recommend to a 400mm lens of good quality for my EOS Rebel T3i

  I want to upgrade a 250mm lens to a goal of 300 or 400 mm for my EOS Rebel T3i.  I know that some of the canon lenses are incompatible but my technical skills are lacking so I don't know the best lenses for my camera.  Suggestions?

  cgates326 wrote:

  I want to upgrade a 250mm lens to a goal of 300 or 400 mm for my EOS Rebel T3i.  I know that some of the canon lenses are incompatible but my technical skills are lacking so I don't know the best lenses for my camera.  Suggestions?

  All Canon lenses currently in production (except the "M" series, which is for the range of mirrorless cameras) are compatible with your T3i. The inconsistency is in the other direction: objective EF - S, which are designed exclusively for the 'culture-frame' like yours, cameras cannot be used on cameras with full frame, like the 1DX, the 6 d and 5 d series.

• EOS Rebel T3i: forced flash?

  I am strongly considering purchasing an EOS Rebel T3i, which will be my first DSLR. She has the ability to flashover, no matter that the lighting conditions? I can see using this fill flash when a subject is backlit and the opening is small.

  Yes, the T3i has a dedicated flash button. When you press the organic pollutants persistent top built-in flash and flash will fire.

• Compatibility with the EOS rebel T3i

  I have an EOS Rebel T3i.  Is this compatible with an EF 70-200mm F/2.8 L IS USM he's lens?

  I was shooting with a T3i when I bought my 70-200 mm f/2.8 mkII IS a few years back. Yes, it worked great! I love the lens. It is not only my sharpest lens, it is also my fastest focusing lens and more importantly, it gives rich and profound colors impressive contrast and beautiful background blur/bokeh.

  Good luck and enjoy!

• Is there a way to manually activate the built in FLASH on my Canon Rebel T3i?

  Is there a way to manually activate the built in FLASH on my Canon Rebel T3i? I can't find the place to do this.
  Thank you.

  You can also use the "Programming" mode  Program mode allows the camera to choose the initial settings, but unlike the automatic mode where you cannot override the decisions of the exhibition, you CAN override the decisions of the exhibition in programming mode if you wish.

  If you choose the programming mode, press the button to bring up the flash and then don't bother to circumvent the decisions of exposure of the camera then it will work a lot like automatic mode.

• Should I spend an EFS 18-55mm on a Canon EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM for landscapes? With the help of a Rebel T3i

  Only done photography for about a year. Wife bought me a Rebel T3i Kit with two Lenes. I'm really into photography outdoor. I installed myEFS 55-250 in a series of 100-400mm L I was going to buy a better lens for landscape and try to keep less than $1000. I think EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM. Better landscapes or is there a better choce range of price thanks

  I would not recommend the EF 17-40mm for your T3i. The EF 17-40mm is really designed to be used as a goal of the ultra wide angle on Full Frame cameras. One of the major is the lack of IS. (Image stabilization)

  For a camera of culture as the T3i, I recommend:

  Lens EF - S 18-55mm IS STM (very good upgrade to the 18-55 kit lens)

  Lens EF - S 18-135mm IS STM

  EF-S 15-85mm IS lens

  EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS lens

  EF-S 10-22mm (without IS, but Ultra-Wide) lens

• My LCD and viewfinder keep turn off when I turn my Rebel T3i, vertically. Why?

  My LCD and viewfinder turn off / go black (camera stays of less) when I turn my Rebel T3i, vertically. Why?

  You're wearing Polarized Sunglasses.  Remove them.

  Edit: Or not.  I just noticed you mentioned the viewfinder too?  That makes no sense.  It goes completely black?

• Photo editing for Rebel T3i program

  I have a Rebel T3i and am looking for a software edit my photos with.  I've heard of some highly recommended ones but my funds are short at the moment.  I want to ask if 'GIMP 2', a free and open source program... is going to just work, image editing, and recommend it to everyone?  Wil, it make a decent work by comparing it to Adobe Elements and other editing software popular very much use here?

  Depending on the type of installation you want to Picasa is very handy (and free) but if you RAW I recommend using one of the Adobe products including Camera Raw.

• Body of L ' goal and EOS Rebel T3i

  I asked a lot of questions here, haha.
  But I'm here with another question. So, I did a little research on the net about the use of the ' goal with a t3i and quite a few people say that they work well together? So objective L are not recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
  I recently bought the T3i and I want just a good lens. Preference for landscape photos. I'm also a few sports, low light and portrait photos.
  Suggestions for the landscape and all around the lens of photography would be great ():

  For landscape photography people often want to use a lens wide angle. Not always, there is no rule that says you can't use anything else. I say "it's usually the first thing that comes to mind

  One of the best wide angles that you get to use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an 'L' but it doesn't matter.

  I suspect that what you have said about the use of an L series lens is due to the factor of cropping of your device photo, as has been suggested by several other responses. L - series will work fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are models 'full frame', by definition. Therefore, none of the L will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So, when people hear 'landscape', they suggest something else that a L-series.

  You have four different purposes: landscape, sport, low light and portrait. The whole point of a DSLR as your T3i is to be able to Exchange lenses, to be able to adjust the camera for use in different situations. So I would say not to try to do it with a lens, but to look more lenses (some of which are Ls), which should ultimately give you better results. For example...

  Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.

  Sport: 70-200/4, 70-200 / 4L, 70-200/2.8, 70-200 / 2.8 L IS II, 100-400 L IS, 300/4 L IS.

  Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, IS 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (Frank): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (studio): EF - S 15-85 IS, the EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  Portrait (environment): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.

  Versatile lens 'walk-around': EF-S 15-85 is... or, according to what the other lenses you get, EF - S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70 / 4L IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  There are many different ways to set up a lens kit. For example, maybe you just like a wide point of view than the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead, you can choose the lens EF-S 15-85 mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraits.

  A 'minimum' kit I often hang out with a camera of harvest is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w / 1. 4 X teleconverter and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.

  When I'm shooting, what I do for the most part with crop sensor cameras, I usually wear: 10-22 mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are the IS 70-200/2.8 and 300/4 IS. (In some cases I use also 70 - 200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS).

  For the portrait with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.

  Your camera can use all the EF-S and EF, including all of the L-series lenses. But just because a lens will fit and work does not mean it is the best choice for your application. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be useless... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... but not really give you the best performance, maybe even less. For example, a 16-35 / 2.8 L II is a wonderful goal on a FF camera, but it makes little sense to buy for use on a device of harvest. For less money, you can either get a lens that is really wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers a little wider range of focal lengths and IS (EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS) has.

  Depth of field in fact is not directly conducted by sizes of sensors of different cameras. What changes in depth of field are: focal length, Aperture and the distance about the goal. If you are looking for the low depth of field (blur a background for a portrait, for example), it takes a large aperture and a longer lens... and more you are close to the material the more shallow depth of field will be. If, however, you want lots of depth of field (for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length... and more you are from the individual (within reasonable limits), will be the deepest depth of field.

  Where full-frame sensor vs cultures comes into force now is that for the same subject, framing with a crop sensor, that we need to stand further away with a given focal length, or if the same shooting distance will use a shorter focal length. In both cases, the result is 'less' depth of field, but it is an indirect result of different sensor size.

  Have fun shopping and learning about your new camera!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Taking wide angle, inside still shot s for rental properties with my Rebel T3i

  I am the owner of the apartments and really struggled to get good shots of small rooms. My Rebel EOS T3i came with the EFS 18-55mm and 55-250 mm lens kit. I took a few photos wide-angle still rooms with lens 18-55 mm EFS, but my apartment rooms are usually quite small (think of the living rooms of 12 x 12 and small bath, etc.).  I just want to be able to adapt a bit more in the picture I'm getting right now, and I just can't back up far enough in the room. A slight distortion is OK. I saw some pictures of the great Hall with an adjustible 10-22mm, but I don't know if I need an adjustable lens, and it seems that they cost much more. Someone recommended using a fixed lens. Any ideas on a good objective fixed size (if all goes well at a reasonable price) which should work well with my camera to this effect.  I am a newbie so sorry if I did not give sufficient details. Ideas that you can give me would be great.

  EF-S 10-22mm lens lens is probably just what the doctor ordered.  If you wish, rent a copy (many places rent them... LensRentals, BorrowLenses, B & H Photo, etc.) and try before you buy - but I suspect it's the goal you want.  There is competition a few lenses with similar focal length ranges... the Canon tends to get the best reviews.

  It is a lens wide angle 'straight'--which means that all the "straight" will actually continue as 'straight' in your photos. In a "Fish-eye" lens straight lines (aka "curvilinear") are not preserved and will appear rounded (unless the line gets to pass through the center of the image).

  But there is a problem... If you're not careful, these objectives very wide angle will change things that * should * appear as rectangles (windows, doors, etc.) will turn into trapezoids (keystone forms) - and in architecture, it may look unpleasant.

  To avoid this, the camera must be 'level '.  Make sure that the lens is not slanted downwards or upwards - leave the level.  As long as the appliance is level, the lines on the sides of your doors and windows will be standing and not lean - creating wonky shapes.

  Good luck!

• Better lens for pictures of products - EOS Rebel T3i?

  Hello

  I have a Canon EOS T3i rebel I use strictly for product photography. We take the photo package and unpack the company/treats pet food; they come in the plastic support sleeves, overlays and blisters. Must ensure that all written content is readable and capture all the details when you take pictures of small Articles of decompressed. Is there any lens that I could use for the two pictures of the packaging and get all the details of the unwrapped items?

  I appreciate your advice!

  I advise to use the Macro USM lens EF-S 60mm f/2.8 and install good tripod.  I use my tripod to shoot macros by reversing the center column and by changing the length of leg to tilt the column of the Center for the best light.

        

  A macro lens is different from a classic lens in several ways.  One, a macro lens generally have a short minimum focus distance.  Two, a macro will also have a great value for the minimum opening.  A value as high as f / 40 s is not uncommon.

  The reason for the higher f/stop parameters is due to the short depth of field you can get when you work at close distances.  I use higher values of f/stop to "extend" my DOF for a quarter of an inch or less, an inch or two or more.  The compromise is that narrower opening requires more light, in order to maintain the ISO required within reasonable limits.

  Another difference that comes to mind, it is how a macro lens focuses.  A standard lens will focus on objects at a certain distance from the lens.  When you move the center of the field of vision, the focal distance remains constant, that translates into a "development plan" which is curved.

  A macro lens is focused on a flat surface.  This is useful if you are Imaging old photos, instead of their scanning.  Instead get the good development in the Center and have it drop moving you to the outer edge of the frame, a macro lens will capture the entire flat photo in perfect focus.

  I hope this helps.  It is a "Juevos Rancheros", BTW.

• Rebel T3i Flash problem?

  Hi all

  I was recently given a T3i as a birthday gift.  I've been playing with the camera and have noticed a weird problem with the built-in flash.  She fires as expected when you use the viewfinder, but when using the screen live LCD or quick modes, popping up from flash flashes a busy screen, and try to take a picture will result in flash not firing and the camera all becomes unresponsive.  It will not respond to any key, except the menu and playback buttons, and it does not appear to turn on and off by switching the power switch.  These symptoms persist until I have remove and replace the battery.  Is - it so the camera is supposed to work?  I have read that you cannot use live modes with an external flash, but it also includes the bulit in one?

  Check the website to see if you have the latest firmware for the Canon camera.  He shouldn't be locked up in the way you described.

  I never used the fast mode on my T5.  And, I rarely use flash, simply because it is not very good beyond a distance of 5 to 10 feet and more than the typical kit lens, 18-55 mm, lenses tend to cast a shadow on the image.

• Canon EOS Rebel T3i

  So I think I'm almost about made the decision to buy a T3i (body only) rather than a T5i because I want a good quality lens. Most of the photos I take are pictures of landscape. Nature, sometimes sports and some portraits. What I need help on is what lens would be perfect for me to buy?
  I want to get the 24-70 L, but it's a little too expensive for me. I prefer something less than $1000

  For exactly what you have stated in your query, the 24-105mm f4 L is the goal for you, this is the best purchase for the money, Canon lens has.  If you can find a white box version, you can get it for $650 - $ 750.  An it's a model 'L '.

  If there is no version white box, which are identical with the same exact guarantee of Canon, the lens sells in the

  range of $1100-1150 $.

  It will be not too wide for your landscapes and not long enough for your sports, but it is the best compromise for both.

  It will be ideal for portraits and general use. It's fast enough to f4 and very stable.

  Of course no one lens will do everything "better."

  Avoid the off-brand lenses cheap.

• Focus problems with Rebel T3i. It will not be in manual or auto focus point. It's not about camera lens

  My camera will not focus. Not only the autofocus. I can't he focus even if I put manual focus.

  The image is still blurry.

  First I thought it was the lens I had but I tried with several, and the problem is the same.

  Any ideas what could be the problem?

  Thank you

  Have you checked the viewfinder diopter?  , It will be not clear even on the manual focus, and it happens with all your lenses makes me think that it is possible that the dial tiny bit right there on the eyepiece was implemented accidental market. The dial control what you see in the viewfinder, not something to do with the focus lens. The diopter is adjustable so that those who need glasses can see things through the viewfinder.  If everything still seems blurry even when the camera thinks he's focused it is generally just that little diopter got hit accidentally.

  IFIT is not this, then perhaps your screen focus got shifted.