Should I clean the sensor before mounting the new lens?

Hello guys! Sorry for stupid question, but I'm not sure I know the correct answer. One of the devices that I use is Canon 5 d classic, and there a lot of dust on the sensor and the viewfinder (not unusual for 5di). I just got a new goal, and I wonder if there is a possibility for the dust on the sensor/viewfinder to get inside the lens while filming? Or I have to clean the viewfinder/sensor before mounting? Or just forget to dust as will evertually get inside the lens of dust? Thank you! I appreciate your answers!

Good advice so far...

1. you don't have to worry about the use of your lens on the camera. The goal is pretty well sealed against dust, so all the dust that's in the mirror in the camera box is unlikely to migrate into the lens (it is more likely to migrate on the sensor, but even what is low risk). There is no such thing as completely dust free a lens, anyway. A few grains of dust inside a lens have virtually no effect on the images.

2. you probably should take advantage of your membership CPS to have the camera, cleaned and checked.

But you can also learn how to clean yourself. Some call it the classic 5 d a magnet 'dust '... Just, I think he's got a big sensor dust get on and does not have a self-cleaning feature because is on later models. It's going to get dusty again, you can bet. So at least you might want to get a blower bulb ("Rocket Blower" is a brand) and learn to use it.

You probably already know, seen in the viewfinder of the dust is usually harmless. It is usually on the mirror or on the focus screen and will not be displayed in the images taken with the camera (unless she manages to migrate on the sensor itself, which is hidden and protected behind the shutter with the exception of the brief moment when an image is rendered).

If the dust seen in the viewfinder appears sharp and in short, it is on the focus screen. If it is fuzzy and blurry, it's on the mirror. Unless you know how and have the right tools for the job, it is not a good idea to give the focus screen and nothing more aggressive than a breath of air from a blower bulb mirror. These can be cleaned more thoroughly, but both are very easily damaged: the screen is optical plastic and can be ruined by using the right type of gasoline on it. The mirror is before coating aluminium vaporized, so is very easily damaged. Aside from an occasional breath of air from a blower bulb, I recommend to leave the mirror screen and concentrate only until you have done a professional cleaning.

A more serious problem to monitor does not light seals. There are seals foam around the edge of the focus screen, which builds the mirror upward against when it is triggered, to keep stray light out of the box mirror during exposure. Over time, these seals foam begins to degrade and may throw particles or even coat of glue holding them in place on the mirror screen and focus. In general, clean up the damage, remove the old and install new foam gaskets are a little tricky, so I recommend that you have any replacement of the foam seal done by a professional. (Also, there are foam seals similar elsewhere inside the camera that are likely to need replacement too, if the joints in the mirror box go wrong. A pro will know what is needed and have the skills to work deeper inside the camera.)

Time does not always have to send a camera in for a simple cleaning of the sensor, so it's something that you can learn to do it yourself. There are two sites that discuss good detail: www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com and www.copperhillimages.com. The first is maintained by independent, professional camera repairmen who also are providers of the repair industry and sell most of the specialized tools and supplies needed for the cleaning of the sensor. The second part of the merchant site one of special cleaning procedures ("Copper Hill Method"). Both sites have good information. Read them carefully before performing any cleaning yourself.

If you decide to learn how to clean the sensor yourself, some things you need to know...

Never use a q-tip common (i.e., "Q-Tip") inside a camera. They throw cotton fibers that can enter and jam of delicate mechanisms.

Check the manufacturer's website you plan any liquid sensor cleaning aid is formulated and approved for your particular camera.

No matter what digital camera that has never had the sensor cleaned almost always need a "wet" cleaning first. This is because there is almost always oils on the sensor (actually in most of the cameras the surface to be cleaned is a filter which covers and protects the sensor). These oils are excess thrown out of the shutter mechanism. Any method of "dry cleaning" that touches the sensor will coat oils and make things worse. If a "wet cleaning" is always advocated, first time around.

It is important to have some the aircraft batteries fully charged before cleaning and work quickly, so that to be able to hold the mirror up and the door is open doesn't work low allowing the shutter to close and the mirror to fall on a tool used for cleaning. Professional cleaners often use a continuous supply instead of a battery, to be sure.

It is convenient to have a magnifying glass Magnifier and light any for easy cleaning. When you view the sensor at the front, don't forget that the image is upside down and reversed. Thus, for example, if you have seen a job in the corner upper lefhand of your images, when you view the sensor directly you will find straw incriminated in the lower right corner.

You usually have a variety of tools to do a multi-step cleaning...

"Fan bulb cleaning' to blow the free particle outside ("Rocket Blower").

"Wet cleaning" with approved optical and fluid swabs from cleaning to remove oils and the particles more strongly respected ('Copper Hill method kit', 'Pecs Pads", 'Pécs swabs', 'Eclipse' solution) of sensor cleaning.

'Adhesive cleaning' using a slightly sticky surface take off slightly adhered particles ('Dust Aid').

'Cleaning antistatic brush' stubborn Claire, remaining slightly adhered particles and to reduce static electricity that attracts dust ("Arctic Butterfly").

"Deleting individual speck" with a reusable precision tool ("Speck Grabber").

"Final Polish" always is a last step to remove the haze left by gasoline ("by LensPen sensor pen"). It also helps to discourage the dust sticks to the surface again.

I've included a few brand names of the products in parentheses as examples. There may be other equally effective products.

Most of the time I find myself with several or even all of these when I do a cleaning of the sensor.

See you soon!

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, California, USA.
«Market softly and carry a great lens.»
MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

Tags: Canon Camera

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