The supersaturation

I learned from a couple of pro photographers on a site I frequent that my photos are generally oversaturated.  I have 10 PSE and almost always make the following changes:

-using the quick selection, do an Auto setting, then increase the shadows, highlights and the means to highlight more than definition

-l' use of Full, do an auto levels, sometimes an automatic Color Correction (based on what it looks like), and finally do a little sharpness with the Unsharp mask

Rarely I adjust (increase) the saturation more precisely.  So my questions are:

(1) I think I have a general idea when photos are too saturated, but what precisely you want to indicate that they are?

(2) change PES modification I do above implicitly saturation?  If so, how can I change my changes so as not to over saturate?

(3) can you take a look at some of my photos and give me your opinion as to whether they are too saturated?  The first photo of the Butterfly in the photo gallery has been specifically adjusted for saturation, but most of the others were not.

http://www.Flickr.com/photos/98772145@N05/

Thank you.

I see the same thing if I change the image of fox for example in the same way that you specified, even if this particular image does not need, well done, in my opinion, and so the Supersaturation is less than others.

I think you're on the right track by saying things quick fix, because these reduce the overall dynamic range more than a little and accentuate the saturation slightly the net effect is a mismatch against nature between the overall contrast and saturation.  If you reduce the contrast in a scene that colors are also silent, but with your multiple iterations of patches the opposite occurs normally.

The other comment is that the sharpness is applied to things that don't deserve, especially noise, and how you reduce this is to increase the threshold a bit to avoid areas with no sharpening edges.  I saw that on fox's photo, a threshold of about 15 looked good, which sharpens the reflection in the eye and some of the fur that is in discussion, but leaves the noisy areas out-of-focus only.

You asked what you could do different and I have two approaches to give, which none use Quick or Auto fixes and actually less Act.  First is to use levels and dark/light tones that are both in virtue of strengthening / adjust the lighting.  The third option in this menu is brightness/contrast, but the image of Fox was almost okay so didn't really need any of that.  Here are screenshots of the menu items and the adjustments I made to your photo to use:

First of all, I used levels to adjust the point black 12 which was where the histogram ran out of values at the end then augmented and lower overall brightness by using the gamma slider to where it looked ok, but not too bright.  In this example, I used 1.20.  With another type of photo, you may need to move the point where the histogram has lack of values of the white light side, this picture was pure white already in it, so it was not necessary.  The auto levels command does the black and white point adjustments, but he's exaggerating them a little so I like to use the levels of black and white point sliders to be more precise:

Then, I liked how you made out a little more in detail in the highlights, so used the shadows / highlights to compress the light values slightly and also used the contrast in the midtones to give the image a little more pop textures:

None of this has significantly increased the saturation or compressed dynamic range both to make things seem unnatural.

I left your sharpening except by using a threshold of 15 as I have said, above.  This image was rather blurry, so he probably needs more attention sharpening using different rays and perhaps another sharpening tool, but I didn't want to spend time with the most obvious problem at hand being supersaturation.

--

The second technique, which is a bit more radical but more useful in my opinion, is to open the JPG file in the Camera Raw plugin, although it is not not a raw format file.  This has the advantage of having all toning available cursors at the same time without having to go though various menus and buttons to find each small set of adjustments and self as just a button to click, although usually I support most of what the car has decided for me but it's always something quick to try at first.  There is also better sharpening and noise reduction.

OK, to open a non - raw in the Camera Raw plugin file, you can use file / open as... After choosing the image, set the on Camera Raw File Type, and then click Open:

Here is your original image open in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) with all the toning settings to zero:

Here's how I adjusted the toning sliders.  I had first you click on Auto and didn't like how it was too dark, so I only left blacks to + 1 and reset or adjusted everything else.  The overall picture seems a bit dark for me, so I increased the exposure of half-one-stop, but who washed points out so I composed their return by setting highlights - 87, so there was some details in the rock of fur and prominent Chin.  Finally, I increased the clarity, who spent the contrast of textures, and finally I added a tiny bit of shine.  If I adjusted the blackopint not bad, then that could have saturated everything, and I could have approached that simply by setting the brightness or Saturation on a slightly negative value.  I also love a little extra color in my treatment, so a slight bit of added Vibrance seemed good to me.  The Vibrance slider is different from Saturation in that he is not pushing skin (reds, oranges, yellows) as much as the Green and blue tones, so that it works to enhance the color in pictures people without exaggerating their skin.  I put the original right on the same line is easier to compare:

In addition toning you can detail adjustment, which involves sharpening and noise reduction.  Here is the part of the face of the image initially treated 100% if you click on it.  The first thing you will notice is that all the grainy noise is sharp, even in areas that are vague or blurred by camera from left to right movement and the other thing to notice is the Green and especially of color reddish-purple color noise spots which not quite all were removed in camera :

Here are the settings sharpness and noise reduction, that I moved after a few minutes:

The main thing to note is that the only sharp parts are those that have relatively strong details, the reflection in the eyes and fur on their side of the eyes and a little mustache.  The rest is mostly out of focus.  For a better shot, without camera movements, sharpening could be quite different.  How I didn't realize that sharpen the edges that where relatively already sharp and ignoring the noise and other out-of-focus areas was with the sharpness masking, parameter, which in this case is 77. It's a bit like the setting of the sharpness in regular emphasis to post-secondary studies, but there a way to define visually, holding the key Alt dragging the cursor hide back and forth until the boldest edges are given key:

I see in this screenshot that I got the retail value of 5 slider, which was probably better than the 25 that I used in the screenshot above.  The other thing to notice is the Luminance and color noise reduction sliders are set to reduce the tiny specs of noise and green/purple stains.

One thing I have to mention about the use of that Camera Raw, it's I think PSE10 you can update to version the most recent can be 6.7 cab which will not have the same set of sliders tonic as in my example - I hacked a 7.1 beta plugin to use with it to get the new sliders, but normally you would have those available in the PSE10 I don't think.  You must use PSE11 or better yet, wait for the PSE12 that comes out in another week or two.

This new method of toning and detail adjustment works well with the images one by one via file / open, but isn't this effective ot use for many images.  The best thing for what isn't expensive Photoshop would be to get Lightroom, which has these same settings but also optimized to work with dozens, hundreds or even more images from a photoshoot.  The other advantage of Lightroom, you can use a wide range of filters and brushes that are limited to the version hosted by elements of the Camera Raw plugin.

Remember when I said I thought the overall image of the fox was too dark, that is really happening is the Fox is too dark and I could care rocks and other elements of the background is not important.  Here is a version of the same image of Fox using radial filter of Lightroom to darken the area then the Fox is more important.  One without darkening radial filter is right:

Lightroom is currently on sale for $129.99 and upgrades are $79.99 with a free trial 30 days available for download, if you want to try it:

http://www.Adobe.com/Lightroom/

Tags: Photoshop

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    Another explanation of hhgttg27 August 2015 - https://discussions.apple.com/message/27784417#27784417

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    I had a case of grouping stubborn reality.  The tracks will be re-group in a way that has no meaning when I changed metadata.  Without going into details, I deleted tracks iTunes completely, then add the files and they are all grouped together correctly.

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    Hello brooksm549,
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    I got your message which, since updating your iPhone 6 to iOS 10.0.2 your iPhone stops when it is 40% and the power to empty very quickly. I understand your concern with the iPhone turn off and drains the battery. I recommend you to review the use of the battery to see what app contributes more to the battery drain. The following article will provide you with steps on how to check the use of the battery:

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    When you know about the soft uses more battery, you can change your settings in order to optimize the battery life:

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    Best regards.

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