brightest pixel by rank

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• Why several ghostly images when I play the video in the timeline?

  I'm new to Speedgrade and I understand how it is powerful - but I think it's completely intuitive compared to After Effects or first or even PhotoShop.

  I loaded a test clip (30 p ProRes) and when I try and play and watch on the configuration of the monitor I get four ghostly images of the shooting.

  I'm not using an external monitor as I am shaken upward in a hotel room working on a MacBook Pro.

  In order to speed (ironic, huh) I'll probably make the colors work in After Effects, but if someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

  Forgive me if this info is already posted on the forum - I tried search but he came up to the top with a white and a large number of tutorials.

  Don't not seen this... but it would be good to get a few things to help you. SpeedGrade is a program unique, but it's actually quite simple to use once you begin to understand the controls and what they do, which is often a little different from what is a noob expected... as when I started with him, I have found certainly!

  First of all, it is more demanding of hardware damage even... If the Sg doesn't like your platform, it will simply go crazy doing nothing. He won't give you small problems like stammering, he'll do great things that obviously does not work. So... that's just MbPro got for the video/graphics card? And how much RAM? Computers that use the graphical features embedded very rarely work well with SpeedGrade. Under 8GB RAM... don't even think on this subject. You MIGHT be able to live with 6 GB of RAM, as some people have claimed that they did... but this isn't a nice job... slowing.

  Following... is this a project of SpeedGrade 'native mode', where you open SpeedGrade and a new project, and then make a timeline it in SpeedGrade, or a draft Premiere Pro sent to Sg by using the command "live from SpeedGrade?

  Initially, I found Sg so impossible, that I used Ae a little myself. Now... I was not to AE for a long time, except to say fight against noise or create a sequence of reading can do a LUT of her.

  First step to a colorist or the marshalling of the app is neutralize your videos... Making it NOT enough. It's a different passage home and down the road. In this step, I don't even look at the picture very much... I'll have the RGB Parade, Luma and YUV Vectorscope 'up' signal and watch, particularly the parade & wave. I select the slider controls (in color wheels) and unlock all the controls I use (the small icons of lock). I'll adjust individual controls in color on the section Offset (left set of sliders) to match the bottom of their footsteps a little over 2 or more, I will look to see if it's ok or should it perhaps a little lighter with this image. The switch for the Gain sliders (right) and set them to basically same heights for the scope of the parade, with their vivid the two lower at 100 and research appropriate for the image. It is sometimes as low as in the 1960s, sometimes as high as 99.

  Next is to use the Gamma sliders (in the middle) to correspond mainly to the parade & - waveform traces... all easily identifiable 'forms' in the mid tones I will align with each other.

  The foregoing leads me what... 20 seconds? May 30 at the most.

  Then I switch back to the color wheels and compare the images with my eyeballs and the vectorscope... How is the saturation and... How is the balance of color/tint and the proportions compared to what I'm used to seeing on the field and the monitor? At this point, I'll do a bit of tweaking of the Gamma & Gain color wheels and luminance sliders, perhaps use contrast, temperature, magenta or rotate the cursors in the cursor above group wheels. This neutralizes things pretty well.

  Can do... Nice... or better. JUST looking at a picture's contrast, luma (lamps or dark) or chroma (color)... where's the good contrast, where... not very good? You can have too little contrast color (saturation) in the midrange, but perhaps too in the brights... or your shadows can all tend to block upward around 5-20, when you need to go up a little higher. This is where the tabs above the wheels of color shine... This example:

  

  The tab made highlights chosen... No, you have still three wheels, each with (vertical slider) luma and chroma controls (wheel)? They overlap, and in order to play a bit with a ramp is great. A "ramp" is a tonal graphic staircase from black to gray in several stages, make an and import... then play around with the settings and see what effect each has... where on the ramp.

  Here, on the tab highlights... the rightmost is very bright pixels in the clip, with overlaps down the scale a little. Controlling the environment moves mainly on the third median of this, the upper third of the image around... with some effect in the poorest and brightest pixels in this part of the scale. The right control is the bottom of the upper third... usually used to help blend in the midrange. Also... See the control 'grayed out '? Set that say gray color and pixels that you change will be in color, the rest of the shaded image. You can see directly what you change.

  So... as you have three basic commands, Offset, Gain and Gamma, and three controls each for shadows, average and clear tones, you have a LOT of very refined tweaking you can do. Also... Note the vertical slider to the left Luma control for the facts tab highlights? In text turned on its side, it says mph... who is the pivot of control that defines WHERE on the scale of the end of the midrange and treble begins... you can move upwards or downwards. Among the witnesses of midtones, you have sliders on both sides, one for the breakpoint of shadows/Mids, one for the breakpoint Mids/facts highlights. Shadows tab has a pivot for the shadows/shades breakpoint.

  It affects all the cool things you can do with the secondary and masks and other... but it's long enough for now!

  Neil

• The 'brightness' happened in Camera RAW

  One of the changes that occurred since CS6 and 11 items is the brightness slider disappeared.  Covers - something else that adaptation?

  for example after setting 'white' and 'black', I sometimes adjusted the brightness to shift exposure right without overexposing the brightest pixels.

  Is it still possible in the 2012 version?

  Mary Lou

  Thank you, Jeff, for your entry.

  Mary Lou

• Real white background

  Hoping a PSE guru can help out me. In the attached picture, I am trying to achieve a real white background to post-secondary studies. I put a real white box in the picture appears the gray background, which is located in the original shot. (I understand that it would be better if I could achieve true white with the camera in the original photo, but this seems to be the best I can do with the camera. I set the white balance and over-exposed as I could without washing on the subject. Still a gray background).

  The problem I have is that each tool PSE that I use to try to adjust the background image washes out the hairs of the grain. Ideally, I would like to be able to create a perfect mask so that I can kockout just the background. In this way, I can adjust the tones of the subject without affecting the surrounding area.

  Someone at - it advice?

  Thank you.

  

  I came with a luminance mask. You may be able to do better with a higher resolution image file.

  1. Copy the image to the Clipboard (select >, then edit > copy)
  2. Add a levels adjustment layer
  3. ALT + left click on the mask of the adjustment layer to display the mask in the edit box
  4. Paste (Edition > paste) the image in the editing area. It will come as an image in grayscale (luminance mask)
  5. Go to menu Enhance > adjust lighting > levels to open the levels for the luminance mask settings. Move the sliders to the pixels you want affected become white and the other black pixels (or as close as you can get).
  6. Click on the layer of the image to display the full color image in the editing area
  7. Return the layer with the sliders and levels adjustment, adjust the brightest pixels again.
  8. This technique has left some grey spots.
  9. Open an empty layer above, press CTRL + SHIFT + ALT + E to make a visible layer of timbre (it includes all the underlying layers)
  10. Open another layer of vacuum upstairs and paint stains with a white brush.

  Note: Step #2 refers to the levels adjustment layer. Step #5 refers to adjustments of levels not on a separate layer.

  

• A luminosity mask

  I recently discovered the ability of Photoshop CS + to select for the brightness and then make adjustments affecting the brighter tones in a way that is much better than other methods of selection.  It has been implemented with the following keys (alt/option, control + 2).

  Is there a 'solution' in the items to accmplish this selection?

  Mary Lou

  As explained by R_Kelly,

  1. Copy the image to the Clipboard.
  2. Add a levels adjustment layer.
  3. ALT-click on the mask of the levels adjustment layer to display the mask in the edit box.
  4. Paste your image in the editing area.  It will automatically come as an image in grayscale (a Luminance mask).
  5. Use enhance... Adjust lighting... Levels (Ctrl + L) to open a levels for the mask of the luminance adjustment and move the sliders for the pixels that you want to assign become white and the other pixels become black (or as close as you can get).
  6. Click your layer of the image to display the full color image in the editing area.
  7. Now you can adjust the levels adjustment layer settings, by moving the sliders to reduce the brightness of the brightest pixels.

  For example, in view of the original image:

  

  I've adjusted the levels of the Luminance mask so that only the brightes pixels will be affected and also painted in black on the skin so it would not be affected.  (Otherwise there is an unpleasant color shift...)  Luminance mask looks like this:

  

  The layers in liquidation that looks like this:

  

  And the result:

  

  Ken

• JPEG2000 lack of high-ranking Pixels

  Hello

  I'm just now convert Quicktime, DV NTSC and JPEG2000 files. I keep all the settings (frame rate, resolution, etc.) exactly the same thing. But, for some reason, export always replaces the upper horizontal line of the image by transparency or, if I go without alpha channel, a black continuous line. Everything else seems good export, the image looks identical to the original material... except that the last row of pixels are all black. Anyone know what could be causing this? Thank you.

  It solved! Problem only occurs when the rendering with 12-bit RGB or rendering with any RGB with "Return to a maximum depth" enabled (which means it renders the form RGB 12 bit and then bring it down to x - Bit RGB). RBG - 12 is deselected, media encoder exports very well. I don't know why RGB - 12 is broken like that, but at least I know where the problem is, so now I can work around it. Woo!

• Dead pixels

  What is the HP policy on dead pixels? A new Mini 210 has grouped 3. I understand that this may be in the meantime.

  Just found this:

  Criteria for replacement LCD

  HP uses all of the following criteria when damaged LCDs are sent for warranty.

  NOTE: All the defects of LCD Panel should be considered at the highest resolution possible by using both the brightest and darkest possible decorations, like some failures of subpixel is perhaps not easily visible under certain conditions.

  For the points still on or off:

  720 p HD, SD, SD +, SVGA, VGA, WSVGA, WXGA and XGA panels,.<1.05M>

  6 or more points in any combination and all the colors that are always on or off

  2 points within 25 mm of the other are still on

  2 points within 15 mm of the other which are always disabled

  HD +, SXGA + and WXGA + panels,.<1.6M>

  7 or more points in any combination and all the colors that are always on or off

  2 points within 25 mm of the other are still on

  2 points within 15 mm of the other which are always disabled

  FHD, UXGA and WSXGA + panels.<2.1M>

  8 or more points in any combination and all the colors that are always on or off

  2 points within 25 mm of the other are still on

  WUXGA panels, > = 2.1 pixels

  9 or more points in any combination and all the colors that are always on or off

  2 points within 25 mm of the other are still on

  2 points within 15 mm of the other which are always disabled

  Looks like I'm replacing.

• If I want to use an external monitor of ranking on dell precision 5000 or Hp zbook (equipped both of usb3 and thunderbolt 3) this piece of harware would work with SG?

  If I want to use an external monitor of ranking on dell precision 5000 or Hp zbook (equipped both of usb3 and thunderbolt 3) this piece of harware would work with SG? My monitor is a scientist of Flanders HDSDI LM-2460W. I know blackmagic has a few options but the last time I checked, he has not worked with SG. Anyone know?

  I think Sg works more easily with an output of your video card... I run two monitors style DVI outputs, but he could use the HDMI connections too I think. The tab Setup (wrench) go you and activate a second monitor and... it's a unique method instead... use the lines where she asks location information to 'say' Sg where the upper-left pixel of your second monitor (program or viewing) is your monitor 'system '.

  I had two 1920 x 1080 monitors, stacked vertically, OS/UI on the bottom, "programs" or reading on the upper monitor.

  So, this upper-left pixel of my 2nd monitor is a negative number for 'up' and zero to indicate the two pixels top left "even".

  It is-1080 for the "vertical" number... it's the height of my 2nd screen and it is negative, because it is above the main screen.

  It is 0 for the horizontal number. Yes, they are stacked.

  Now, if I had a monitor/program play to the left of my OS/UI screen, it would be...

  Vertical number 0, as relatively, they have the same 'height ';

  Horizontal number of-1920, that reading is on the left.

  Reading right... Vertical would be 0 and horizontal a positive number of 1920 (width of the primary monitor).

  Neil

• I have a very high quality image that I put on InDesign and it looks great on the screen and print very pixelated...

  I have a document that has a high ranking on quality image. When we print it's so pixelated. How can I fix?

  If it is not one of those ^ and you print directly from InDesign, go to print > graphics > Image > data send: > and choose 'all '.

  Or better yet, export as PDF and print from Acrobat.

• Music Star Ranking in ios 10

  How to reach the star ranking in ios 10 music app? It is quite necessary to classify the slopes!

  I was just online with the support of apple for the many problems associated with iOS 10, I asked the meaning of the notes and the Counselor said that apple took the 5 very useful classification system by stars for a binary as / aversion system.

  In my opinion the dumbing down of the critical features that made the iPod original industry leaders is absolutely absurd. iOS 9 showed they can carry two ratings without her methods affect the experience. My 18 000 + songs in iTunes are noted on the 5 star system, and if apple has really decided to move away from this feature I have more use for one of their devices.

  Looks like that it is not no reason for me to stay within the Applesphere more. I'm one of those people left by blind ambition of Apple to competition in the market continuously and dumb things down to the masses. I'm about to buy a new laptop a few new phones and tablets too... Looks like a long day of Googling iTunes and apple alternatives.

• I have a chase bank credit card that I have good ranking and what number do I call to talk to I tunes because he says, use a different card, it's the map I was buy everything what I tunes. Is it because I have challenged their load m

  I have a chase bank credit card that I have good ranking and what number do I call to talk to I tunes because he says, use a different card, it's the map I was buy everything what I tunes. Is it because I thought them charge me twi

  Can I have it please the number on I tunes support whether please or have them call me at * Leonardo B *.

  < personal information under the direction of the host >

• Crack of 1 pixel screen MacBook Pro early 2015

  Hi all

  I own a MacBook Pro of the 2015 at the beginning and I recently discovered a problem with the retina display (so-called "gorilla glass").

  I only have the MacBook since January this year, and I have recently discovered a small hole about 1 pixel wide screen. It seems that the screen is cracked and I see directly in the hole of the next layer of the screen. At first, I thought it was just some dust and I tried to clean it up, but it did not help.

  I did some research and saw that people also had similar problems and sudently woke up seeing these annoying small cracks on the screen.

  Here are some videos and pictures of what it looks like:

  https://goo.GL/photos/LthBkUrM9eWDs5qM8

  What I'm curious to know, is if this applies to the guarantee and if I can send it to apple so that they can change my screen.

  I understand that it looks like it was an accident made by me, but it's not.

  I can still use the MacBook, but that little crack is so boring, it's like a distraction.

  Anyone apple support can help me with this? The nature of my question is eligible for the guarantee of apple?

  You better Genius Bar appointment to show the screen of your MacBook Pro and ask if she applies for warranty.

  I think you should pay for the cost of replacement LCD, however.

• How can I find the number of pixels is in my photos of the ipad? I sell on ebay and they have new requirements for the photos. 500 pixels on the longest side. Is it possible to increase the pixels on already took pictures?

  How can I find the number of pixels is in my photos of the ipad? I sell on ebay and they have new requirements for the photos. 500 pixels on the longest side. Is it possible to increase the pixels on already took pictures?

  See if this application works for you > https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/image-size/id670766542?mt=8

• Impossible to download tools of SEO like Page Rank etc on ipad

  Downloaded the Firefox browser and had link to seo tools such as rank checker etc but cannot download them on my iPad. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

  Sorry for the problem, but it's an extension that works for the Office of Firefox. I was able successfully to run it on the desktop for Firefox.

• Full screen, I have a few unnecessary pixels from (~ 4) at the top of the screen.

  During the last installation of windows updates, I closed Firefox and reopened. He had this annoying line of pixels in the upper part of the screen. They do not meet the click or right click and interfere with my muscle memory (I'm used to raise the slider as high as possible to change the tabs).

  How can I get rid of them?

  It is not the title bar. The title bar disappears automatically in full screen. Having said that, I discovered that the problem was with one of my modules. I have reset firefox and the problem disappeared.

  Thanks for the attempt to help, even if it was not useful!