is 100mm f 2.8 L usm macro/mr14 ex

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• Possibilities of macro?

  Thanks for reading this.
  I like to take pictures of things like insects and small lizards. I found a really cool Mantis yesterday in the garden and took some pictures of it. I used my 70-200 with the 1.4 tc which was pretty good, but I could of course not very close because the limits of depth of focus. I am considering getting the barrel extension tubes: EF 12 II and EF 25 II. What is a good way to go? Here's something that you would use as well as a tc on a 70-200? Or is the wrong type of lens for this kind of work? I also had an initial investigation of the flash macro circular rings. But I am assuming that they would work with my 70-200 cause of large diameter of the front element. He seems to have a lot of options for macro set ups. What kind if the installer should be to make the pretty decent macro shots? I was a big fan of Igor Siwanowicz' work for a very long time.

  See you soon,.
  CG.

  Hello

  As ebiggs says, there are several ways to make macro shots.

  Personally, I use a number of extension tubes (a set of Kenko of 3-36, 20 & 12 mm - more a 25mm cannon and two Canon 12 mm). These are always useful to have, and I wouldn't be without a few in my camera bag, all the time. They are inexpensive and can allow you to get this macro or close-up when you do not have a lens macro with you, or can be used to increase the capabilities of a true macro lens beyond magnification is 1:1 (general) potential, or simply used to get the nearest minimum focus distance with a telephoto lens.

  For example, this was shot with EF 70-200/2.8 IS, Canon 25 mm extension tube and 550EX flash (filling)...

  

  I have been hunting of birds and did not have a macro with my lens.

  For sub image to frame the small Bush * i * (replace the astericks with "t"... the cyber censorship allow me to use the actual name of this bird) as tight as I wanted, I needed to add a 36mm extension tube to an EF 500/4 IS lens, so that the lens to focus more closely...

  

  While they are not necessarily designed for the macro or almost macro work teleconverters (Canon calls Extenders) change the effective focal length of a lens, but leave its closest distance focal length quantity... so will increase the potential of magnification. In order to get the slot kick a little fence lizard, I have had to use time - Canon EF 1. 4 X II and an extension of 25 mm - 300/2.8 IS lens...

  

  More the focal length of your lens, the effect less any given amount of expansion will give. An extension of 25mm changes slightly the magnification and the closest focusing distance of a 300mm lens... But the same amount of extension on a 50mm lens would have dramatic effect.  Next image was shot with 12mm on the EF 50/1.4 lens extension...

  

  Even more extreme, the following was shot with 12mm on an EF 20/2.8 lens extension (I wanted an extra depth of field to keep more detailed background)...

  

  During the filming of the foregoing, the petals of flowers were actually touch the front element of the lens! Can't get much closer than that!

  The macro above or near macro shots were made using lenses "non-macro" that have been made to concentrate more than normally possible, using extension tubes. Those who can work, but there are some advantages to true macro lenses, too. I personally use four in my Canon Kit: Tamron SP AF 60mm f2.0, Canon MP-E 65mm f2.8, Canon 100/2.8 USM (not the L / IS) and Canon 180 / 3.5 L. I also use a Canon TS - E 45/2.8 for big jobs and occasionally a target macro Tamron SP 90/2.5 1:2 vintage, adapted.

  When you force non-macro lens to focus closer than expected, there may be side effects. For example, the shot of the rose bud above has a pretty strong vignetting and softer edges. It's characterisic of the EF 50/1.4 lens when it is done to focus very narrow and more openness is used... It is not necessarily a bad thing. I used the lens with extension deliberately for this one, because I wanted so much vignetting and soften the effects.

  One thing, you don't need to worry with 'real' macro lenses is image quality. In general, they are all very able to make beautiful pictures. It is lower for other features of macro lenses that set apart them from each other.

  Focal length is probably the main consideration. Too short a macro lens can get awfully close to your subjects, which could scare the living creatures, or do you throw an unwanted shadow on the subject or not even you bit or stung! A longer lens gives you more space to work, but a long lens is hard to get a stable shot and makes very very shallow depth of field.

  If I could have only one, I would choose my USM Canon EF 100/2.8 macro lens. It's the best all around for my purposes, on both devices of cultures (like yours, although I use 7Ds) and full frame (5 d MkII). 90 to 105mm gives the reasonable working distance, but it is quite easily portable for quick shots. DOF is still shallow, but manageable enough without resorting to ridiculously small openings where lighting is a problem and optical diffraction robs fine detal of images.

  Here's an example shot with my 180 / 3.5 L, which demonstrates how depth of field thin razor can get with such a long focal length...

  

  Even if it's a fairly large bee, the plan of sharpness is only of a few mm of depth. This was shot near 1:1 on full frame (with a film camera, actually). The lens and the camera are resting on the ground to help keep their constant. Something close to 100mm is much more easily portable, not too big and makes a bit more depth of field.

  There are other features of the Canon EF 100/2.8 USM which make a great macro lens, IMO.

  It's 'internal focus' (IF), which means that it does not grow in length when you focus it close, so don't cut your work remotely (note: 100L, Tamron 60/2 and 180 / 3.5 L are also IF lenses). However, there is no such thing as a free lunch, with optics. In order for the 100/2.8 if it starts raining that some other lenses of similar focal length. And the focus distance actually changes somewhat because it brought closer. I heard max with 1:1 magnification, it is closer to the 70mm lens... but it is not particularly notable in the field of work with the goal.

  100/2.8 USM macro lens on a crop sensor camera, with 550EX flash, pocket...

  

  Version 100/2.8 that I use has player development USM, which gives it an autofocus fast enough for a macro lens. Macro lenses tend to be slower to focus for a few reasons. One is that they must move their items focusing a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is that most precision signals more speed, so use what is called a mechanism of the development of "throw long". In the old days of manual focus, you have to turn the focus ring a lot more away with a target at long range. Short-range lenses were built for speed and could be used for sports photography. By car from the 100mm USM (who are also the EF - S 60 / 2.8, 100 and 180 / 3.5 L) makes more than one lens dual use, more usable for purposes of non-macro. Despite USM, the 180/3.5 L is significantly more slow development and not as useful for the non-macro works.

  I make the distinction between macro and non-macro focus because often the macro shooting focuses more easily manually. I use AF sometimes, but just as often or more often use the development manual method or the other.  But if you want to use as a non-macro, also, moderate telephoto lens it can be enjoyable if it is reasonably fast to the point. Another advantage of USM, it's that you haven't disable AF before substitution manually. (Note: there was a version prior to EF 100/2.8, abandoned years ago, that has no USM).

  For me, one of the most important features of the Canon 100 mm macro lenses is that they may fit with a Ruff of the tripod mounting. The 100/2.8 USM uses tripod ring B (b) and 100L tripod D ring. I'm not aware of any other macro lenses less than 150mm than a being mounted with a ring of tripod and for me, this is a very important feature. A lot of macro photography is made of a tripod or monopod. That is one of the reasons I really don't think that he had to upgrade to the new version IS..., the more it costs much more. In addition, the stabilization is of limited effectiveness when shooting macro... If this can be nice when you use the goal for non-macro purposes (except that I have several other lenses, so do not rely on the macro for dual use that much). The 180 / 3.5 L and most other 150 mm and more macro lenses equipped with a tripod ring.

  Speaking of stabilization, the Canon 100 L uses a hybrid form developed especially for macro, which obviously is one of the most effective. However, the 1:1 mag, it could only be good for one or two stops of assistance. For non-macro photos, the IS could give three or four stops assistance.

  I had the Tamron SP 60/2.0 recently because it is quite small and light, easy to store in my camera bag, when I don't know if I'll take any macro shots or not, have other gear to carry around. The same is true for the Canon EF - S 60/2.8 USM, it is just as compact. I opted for the Tamron for its opening of f2, mainly in order to use the lens for portraits, as well. Both the Canon and the Tamron 60 mm lenses are "cultures only" (all other macros mentioned are capable of FF).  I don't have the images uploaded of him online yet, but have found the quality to be good enough. It is a bit slow focusing... no problem for the macro or portraits, but not a goal I would use for sport and shooting action. I imagine that the Canon with its USM is developed faster.

  

  I used to use the vintage (25-30 years) Tamron 90 mm as my macro "compact" (shown on one of my 7Ds, above)... and he is used to this end but was less useful for portraits. Yet, for a goal which cost me about 60 US $. It's $20 for the lens - like new with hood, 1:1 adapter, caps and a Nikon Adaptall mount - plus $40 for a China Adaptall-EOS mount.  It is slower to work with. Set to manual focus, as well as manual control of the opening, but did a good job (here with the extension tube of 36mm to increase the magnification).

  

  The other lenses I mentioned use are more specialized. The Canon MP-E 65mm macro is a very high magnification, the manual focus lens. The magnification less he can give is 1:1, where most other macro lenses are at their maximum (unless you add extension for them tubes). It goes back to 5 / 1 or 5 X life size, so, essentially, can fill the frame on one of my 7Ds with a grain of rice.  Image made with the MP - E 65mm here is a tiny snail, newly hatched which was smaller than the nail on my pinky, at 2 X magnification...

  

  I must say, I would not recommend the MP-E 65mm as a first macro lens. It will especially be a lens only tripod. Depth of field is incredibly deep. Due to the extension of the objective, it's more small aperture of f16 becomes something like an effective f96 at higher magnification. I'll have to work on the development of techniques of stacking with this lens (and will need something much slower moving than a snail, shoot those!).

  I use the lens 'Tilt Shift' TS - E 45mm especially for close-ups of small product... Shoots of studio on table, like this that was one of hundreds of fact for the customer's Web site...

  

  Magnification with the 45mm alone isn't really the territory of the macro, but it allows a single control in terms of development with the tilt movements, as well as ways to dodge the reflections with the movements of travel. It is the manual focus lens, too. For higher magnfication work, the TS-E 90mm might be a better choice and magnification of two lenses can be increased by using extension tubes.

  As for flash, there are choices with those, too. There are specialized macro flashes or ways to use standard flashes for macro photos.

  I used a Canon MR - 14EX Ringlite for turned snail, above. I mainly only use a ring light with very high magnificatioin shots... to the low mags just light seems flat and 'clinical' for me. As far as I know, the MR-14EX is pretty much dedicated to Canon lenses, since it clips directly on the lens, locking silver that is on the Canon lenses.

  MR-14EX on MP-E 65mm, on 7 d...

  

  More often, especially for 1:1 magnification and more low blows, I use Canon MT - 24EX Twin Lite or a unique and standard flash with some minor changes. The Twin Lite is great, but a package large enough and not very useful for non macro. Also, it is designed to attach on the front of the Canon lenses, but is more flexible because it can be used with a more generic double flash support, too.

  Image of LH: MT-24EX normally mounted. Center: Double Lepp/Stroboframe flash support. Image of HR: MT-24EX on support Lepp.

     

  But do not use a dedicated, macro flash either. Often I will just use a flash unique and standard cord shoes off camera so that I can stand to the side of or above the object...

  

  Note that I put two coats of white qauze bandage on the flash head, maintained by a rubber band. This reduces and diffuse the power of the flash so that it can be used near a small subject. A single flash works surprisingly well, because compared to a small topic, it's like a giant light box in the sky. This Mantis was shot using something similar to the above setup (and EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens)...

  

  Enjoy you shopping!

  Macro is lots of fun... and a lot easier today than it was back in the good/bad old days of film! One of my old rigging...

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Distance index & scale on 100mm f/2.8 L

  Once development manual of the EF 100 mm f/2.8 L USM macro lens (or no matter what lens, incidentally), is recommended in order to align the distance index | periods on the scale of distances (e.g. 0. 30 m) or by central semicolons of reports of magnification (e.g.:1: 1)?

  The difference may seem subtle, but it's important when Imaging (and then measure and calibration of the rungs of the ladder) of tiny subjects.

  -L

  Hello lwalker,.

  The infinite position on this lens where the vertical line of the "L" mark is aligned with the distance to the scale indicator.  To better focus should always check through the viewfinder or Live amplified View.

• model recommended for tethered shooting.

  Must be in mode live view. the price under $ 1,000, prefer under $ 500

  main subject of coins.

  Thank you

  figures wrote:

  As such, I would use digital photography to take crisp and clear of my pieces pictures to document my collection and share it with other collectors, for commercial purposes.

  I founded what I have gathered so far, I'm considering buying a body SL1, kit power adapter & EF 100 mm f/2.8 usm macro lens.

  You don't need something fancy to get accurate coin images, some time it is set correctly.  Any camera to the 450 d has seen live, even if you have same LV for this.  In addition, any return to 450 d camera (and a few models before) have more than enough resolution for this need.  Unless you plan and get into photography as a hobby, I would try to get a discount at nine Rebel (450 d, 500 d, 550 d, 600 d) camera because Canon.  You could save a little money.  I would even try to pick up the 100mm macro for them if you can get it.  All rooms of guarantees.

  Here is the body of the camera:

  http://shop.USA.Canon.com/shop/en/catalog/cameras/refurbished-EOS-Digital-SLR-cameras#

  It seems that most of the rebels come in kit, and you don't need a kit.  Although they have a given SLR for $500.  If you hold you could get a T3i for $400.  Similarly, you can get the 100mm for less than $500, but they are hard to find.

• Which camera to photograph the paintings and then print postcards and greeting cards?

  I currently have a PowerShot SD600, but maybe I need a new camera for my purpose.  Those who would work for my application?

  I paint with acrylics and the pintings out for between 1 ' x 2 ' and 4 ' x 4 '.  I want to take pictures of them in order to have a professional printer to create postcards and greeting cards to sell in museums.  The printer indicates that it will use a 1200 dpi printer.  I really want the absolute best cards and the image that I can get.

  Should what resolution I take photos, how can I be sure that I take photos in the correct resolution (or is it adjustable after the fact), and that carmeras would work for this?  I have Adobe PhotoShop if it has no effect.

  I would like to use the camera for this purpose for about 6 images per year.

  I also sell houses and could use the camera for pictures of the housing list.

  With regard to the price I'm willing to spend up to $600, if necessary.

  Thank you.

  If I were to try to do this on a budget...

  The camera LENS is more important that the body... then I would seek to lenses.  For this type of work, a macro lens will work better because they detail more high resolution capacity (even when you are not using them for close-up photography).

  The camera BODY is less important.  Your work is not in motion when she is photographed (it is not the sports photography or action) and this means that the features that are ideal for sports are not important for what you want to do.  You don't have to worry about performance in ISO or noise because you get control lighting (and you need control lighting.)

  An image will be generally well look at 300 dpi or more (even a little less than 300 dpi will look still good enough).  It will not look as good in 150dpi and some laboratories refuses to print anything less than 100 dpi (even if you insist) because they believe you hate and requests a refund (even if you insisted that they print it at such a low DPI).

  If your postcards are a size 4 x 6 "then a 18 megapixel print to 864 dpi (which would look fantastic).   Even a 5 x 7 would look great.  A size of 8 x 10 "would receive up to 432 dpi (which is always very well).

  If it's only 6 photos per year and you would shoot them the same day AND you don't think you would use the camera gear for anything else THEN... either (1) strongly consider hiring a person for the job, or (2) consider RENTING the equipment if you can't find anyone to do it (just be warned that it will be tricky).   You can rent equipment from places like LensRentals.com or BorrowLenses.com (and probably others I don't know about.)

  Camera

  Being budget minded, I would shoot it with a Canon T5 (18 megapixels - about $400 although if you get a refurbished unit you can get it for less).  "Renovated" is about $200, but I see the store gun shows them as not in stock right now.  You can also use a Canon SL1 (very slightly more expensive than a T5 but if you get a renovated body is $279)

  Goal

  A Macro USM Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 lens.  It's the power of resolution in detail above in point lowest price available in the line-up.  All other macro lenses are more expensive.  It is $ 419 at most merchants of Canon, but I see you can get a refurbished copy directly from the Canon store at $319 (and it's in stock):

  http://shop.USA.Canon.com/shop/en/catalog/EF-s-60mm-f-28-macro-USM-refurbished

  Tripod

  You will also need a tripod.  For light work as a T5 and a 60 mm macro lens, a tripod Manfrotto 190 series would be ideal, but Manfrotto is a reputable tripods, so they will not be the thing cheaper than you can find (but they are quality).  You will be able to find budget from companies like Slik tripods (not nearly as Manfrotto but it will be cheap.)  I'm not advocating normally buy tripods 'cheap' because they break a lot and now that you buy a tripod to replace the broken tripod you bought to replace the tripod broke before this one... and at the point where to add it you could have come by purchasing the quality tripod from the start.  Most of photo equipment is sustainable and does not need to receive the "white glove" treatment during the manipulation it - they can take a bit of a transition to tobacco and are proud to show their scars from the battle.  But if you buy a tripod at low prices... they do not so good shots... Be gentle.

  Cable tie

  I would also get a long camera USB modem cable (the cable that comes with the habit of the camera is particularly long) and allows you to set up a laptop computer connected to your camera so that while your camera is pointing to your paint, you can set the lights while watching your computer screen.  Search Amazon for "Attached USB Cable" and you'll see a lot of cables 15' that work.  It must be 'USB type A mâle' at one end of the cable (it is the most common USB plug) and ' Male USB Mini-B ' on the other end.  You'll notice brand cable 'Home tools' (about $37) and you'll probably also see the brand "Monoprice" (about $7).  Guess who I bought?  Yes indeed that cable $7 works just as well as the cable $ 37 (it's simply not painted "hunter orange").

  A Safety Board: attach a camera, it is possible that someone (you, perhaps) could tripod on the cable modem service, shoot it is hard and damage to the USB port on the side of the camera.  .... I use some Ribbon adhesive (adhesive tape is similar by the dint of... duct tape but duct tape leaves a VERY messy residue when you take it off and the tape adhesive comes off clean and does not leave a sticky, sticky mess, icky.)   Plug one end of the cable to the camera, give yourself at least a foot or two of slack and the cable on the tripod of bands so that if someone goes off on this issue, he's going to shoot the tripod instead of the device.

  Lighting

  Normally, it takes thinking of everything that has any amount of "shine" to it as if you are shooting in mirror.  If flash would be visible to you while looking into this mirror, then it has reflection will appear in your picture.  For this reason lighting is normally left to the sides (and I said 'Coast' (in the plural) because you will need more than one.)  If the flash is disabled on ONE side, while coast will get a stronger than the other side light and will cause lit image.  You'll therefore need to balance the lighting have lights on both sides.

  These fires are not necessarily photographic flashes (who would get expensive), but you probably don't want to use the daylight balanced lights.

  Bob has already pointed out the tricky part... most of the paintings are flat on the surface (oils, watercolours) so as long as the light is off on the side, you will see no reflections.  But acrylic have texture and you think that this 'texture' (since dired painting is brilliant) is little micro-miroirs to all sorts of crazy angles.

  I have never tried acrylic of photography, but my father was a painter and I'm familiar with the behavior of the paint and can well imagine the problems this will create trying to photograph.

  Circular polarizing filter

  If the light source from an angle (closed on the sides), then usually a polarizing filter can reduce this light reflections.  The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro lens has a diameter of 52 mm front filter threads.  This means that you may need to purchase a "Circular Polarizer" filter in diameter size 52mm to deal with Reflection.

  You can find inexpensive circular polarizers, but these are sometimes of very poor quality and create alterations in wobbly color.  Large filters thread names are B + W the Hoya "PRO1" brand series filters (budget fact Hoya filters too - line PRO1 which are good filters Hoya).

  Rental

  BTW... If you want to go nuts with the resolution of the camera and you plan to RENT equipment rather than buy it... my camera recommendation would be to move to a Canon 5 d and a Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 L IS USM Macro lens.  The 5 d is a 50 megapixel sensor resolution 8688 x 5792 pixels.  A 4 x 6 "print 1448 dpi format (well over 1200 dpi of resolution of your printer).  Format 5 x 7 ", it is still 1241 dpi.  A 5 d is not cheap (it's a $3,600 for the body 'only' camera).  So, I would not buy one to shoot 6 images per year... but I sure would rent one for work.

• Canon 100mm f2.8 macro

  I tested a 100mm macro lens was offered to me at a reasonable price. Everything seems good. Aesthetically, it is like new and the photos are sharp.

  However, I found the the focus ring is very slightly loose. There is a little game when I turn it.

  From an article by Wayne Schmidt online: he stated that:

  "The build quality seems very good, although there is 1/16th of an inch of play in the focus ring, a side effect of the ring-drag system which prevents the lens is damaged by blurring the hard point at each end ring."

  Is this normal? Can someone share your knowledge on this goal.

  Google canon 100mm macro ring

• How to get decent macro shot with my T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM

  Someone here can direct me to a good tutorial on getting the macro shots decent with my objective T3i + EF 70-300mm f/4-5. 6 IS USM?  I'm pretty good in online searches, but I can't find are reviews and unboxings .  Even the manual I found isn't really give instructions re: macro, even if the lens itself says '1.5m/4.9ft MACRO' right on it.

  Thank you very much in advance for any help!
  Deb

  To use the lens for close-up photography, zoom focal length max (300mm for example) and run the tune-up to the minimum focus distance.  The distance of the development of saddle is close enough consider it is a zoom 70-300mm lens... but it's nowhere near as close as a dedicated macro lens to true.

  You can get close... There are two ways to do this.

  (1) you can use a near plan diopter.  So that the lens you want the Canon telephoto lens 500 d (specifically you want the version with diameter of 58 mm threads to attach to the front of the lens 70-300 mm).  It's about $85.  It is a goal to two elements (which is good better than any diopter close-up of part 3).

  (2) you can use "extension tubes".  An extension tube is (believe it or not) exactly what the name says... it is a hollow tube... and it extends the distance between the lens and the camera body.  You attach to the camera (such as a lens) and then set the goal to draw instead of the body.  This positions the lens away from the plan of the image inside the unit and, therefore, range full tune-up of the camerea is shifted more near the camera (focusing more close distance was 1.5 meter without extension tube, but will be reduced to 42 centimeters just with the attached Canon 25 mm extension tube).  It allows not only the camea to focus at a distance closer, it also increases the size of the image) extension Tubes don't have any glass in there - they are completely hollow.  The body of the tube a pine e-mail to transmit signals through so that the camera body and the lens will always be able to communicate.

  The Canon 25mm extension tube is about $140.  Kenko is another popular brand (their tubes are delivered as a 'game' of three different lengths).

  Whether you use tubes extension or close-up diopters, Cannon suggests that you should manually focus the lens.

  When you arrive at very close distance of focus, depth of field can become quite shallow.  If shallow you can't get as much of your subject in focus as you want.  Use the Hard-Core (a) macro photographers a tripod (because after precisely focusing...) "If your body moves a few millimeters, it may completely lift the subject outside the home).  If you do not want to make sure that you do not move (and the best way to do that is usually to use a stationary object to hold the camera - as a tirpod.)

  They can also use a technique called "focus stacking."  The development of stacking is to take several pictures.  You take a picture, tweaking the development by a few millimetres and take another shot and repeat until you have enough plans to stack the subject of front-to-back with all the positions of different orientation.  The images are then merged using software (Photoshop will do, but there are third-party products that are dedicated to the development of stacking as well.)

  I did it by wrapping a piece of tape around the ring to focus on my goal.  I then focus point of closest focus and use a marker to mark this point (on the Strip).  Then I focus on the point most distant from the focus I care and mark this spot on the Strip as well.  Now I take a series of photos... each, then slightly focus a little bit at a time, take another picture, and repeat until I got enough to get the closest points to the farthest, I scored on that tape.

  More difficult Basic macro photographers will sometimes use what is called a rail development.  It is a track that Mount you on the tripod and then set the camera to a carrier rolling on "rail".  Rail has fine adjustment that allow to move the camera with control.  You run the rail back (furthest point), then focus your goal for the closet focusing point on your topic.  Rather than turn the ring on the lens... you use the buttons on the focus rail - which physically moves the camera forward.

• Range Focus limiter on the 100mm Macro F2.8

  On an ILCA - 77M 2, just how to deal with this switch

  Of the operating instructions of the Macro Sony SAL100M28 100 mm f/2.8 lens:

  "To focus on subjects at close range..., update fixed anywhere near the object, and then set focus-range up to LIMITlimiter; the focus range is limited to the range of big point. Similarly, when shooting subjects at an extreme range, set thefocus anywhere near the object and then set the limiter of development-range up to LIMIT; the focal range is limited to the range Far-getting to the point. Set the limiter of development-range FULL to allow the range of focus. »

  The SAL100M28 is a macro lens, and as such, it has a long beach of possible focus distances. In addition, in order to get the sharpest image possible, it adjusts the focus more slowly than a conventional lens. This means that should naturally be for some time to focus on a subject. The focus range limiter gives you the ability to limit the movement of the lens at half of its normal range, which speeds up the process.

  Do not use it at all ever, but it can help to to focus on your topic before it moves.

• Canon EF 100 mm F2.8 Macro L, parts

  Hi, as you can clearly see that my canon 100mm f2.8l macro lens before mounting the filter thread is little damaged, as was the piece of plastic, the filter always live and unscrews easily, but I need to spare for this goal, if anyone can help me is it be one, and estimated price. ?

  Thank you.

  

  If you call Canon Service Dept., they sell and ship you the part.

  However, it might not be very easy to install and may require special tools. I don't really know, without seeing a mounting manual and diagrams for the particular lens. You better send the lens for repairs. I've seen several lenses removed for repair by inexperienced people end up as Clipboard.

  Coordinated for the Canon Service Center nearest lie on the Canon USA site (I'm assuming your in the U.S... If not, check your local website of Canon).

  ***********

  Alan Myers
  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

• How to make a macro with a goal photos 50 mm f1.8 Prime

  How to make a photos of macro with a prime lens 50 mm f1.8 lens is labeled macro, but only makes farm ups.

  A "true" macro lens allows to approach quite close to your subject that the size of the image on your sensor is larger than what is in real life.

  For example: your sensor is "roughly" 14 x 21 mm.  A penny in the United States has a diameter of 19mm.  This means with a real purpose of macro scale '1:1 ', you could get close enough to the penny the edges of upper and lower of the penny does not fit in the frame (the will of sides... barely.)

  There are a number of ways of "close-up" photography.

  (1) buy a "real" macro lens  The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens is fantastic and also good enough prices.  A 'real' macro lens will provide the highest quality of image.

  (2) buy "extension tubes".  These committed between the casing and the lens, but they are hollow (there is no element of glass in them but they have electronic contacts so that the lens and the body can still communicate.)  By moving the furthest lens to the focal plane, the range of the lens is considerably reduced.  This allows you to get much closer that otherwise would be possibe.

  (3) use diopters "close up".  Here's the screw on filters that you screw on the end of your lens.  They provide a larger/more close to your subject.  The disadvantage of these, it is that they can show distortion near the edges of the image.

  (4) use a ring of "Recoil".  It is a ring that allows you to mount your lens on the camera body... back.  The screws on the front of the lens (where you would normally be screw on filters), but a bayonet mount on the other side, so you can connect it to the camera.  Using the lens 'backwards', you can get much clsoer.  The downside is that you can't control the lens.  Development is manual and you cannot change the opening.

• The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 fits my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 work on my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  Yes.  It's a lens EF - S (EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens)

  The SL1 Rebel can use almost any lens Canon EOS... regardless of EF-S vs EF.  He can even use the TS-E and MP-E lenses.

  Lenses which does not take your camera are the "EF - M" lenses (there are two of them at last I checked).  Those who are made to the 'mirrorless' body of Canon, which is not sold in North America.

• Word file with macros trojan

  Hello world

  I have a doubt, recently I downloaded a file attachment to an e-mail, it was a MS Word file with macros and the Internet search that I discovered that it's a Trojan horse, the question is that if I downloaded the file and the Word automatically opens the file, but the context menu Macros told me that the macros are disabled and ask me if I still wanted to open of course, I said no!, then I deleted the file. According to it, its there any possibility that the Trojan horse could not install malicious software or opening certain ports? What I have to worry about something, in the case of installed malware of this macro, restore my mac, the problem is complete?

  Thank you.

  Its there any possibility that the Trojan horse could not install malicious software or opening certain ports?

  N ° No. Zero.

  I have to worry about something,.

  Peace in the world, perhaps. Other than that, no. Do not lose sleep over this kind of thing. You have a Mac.

• Lately Firefox is no longer recognizing macros Macro Express and upper and down arrows do more work as it should.

  Macro Express works in all other browsers (and programs), but is no longer working in Firefox.

  The arrow pointing upwards and down arrow works in all other browsers, but in Firefox, instead of moving her down (or up) a line at a time, the page will move much, much down (or climb). The Page Up and Page Down buttons work only part of the time... If an arrow down (or up arrow) has been used, the arrows Page move the page but not one page upwards or downwards... lots of pages pointing upwards or downwards.

  If I need to revert to a previous version of Firefox, I'll do that. Please tell me how to work the way they need to work things out.

  Work again in Thunderbird too. I did nothing to fix it on my machine. It was weird.

• Tab key does not work at the macro program

  Hello

  We have an in-house custom macro program that fills the fields in a web page displayed by Firefox.

  It is the window handle of the field with the circumflex, sends a string of WM_CHAR messages to fill it with text, sending a WM_CHAR message with a TAB character to change areas and repeat the above for the next field.

  This morning 15 Firefox updated itself, and now the program macro does not work. Specifically, Firefox is no longer changes fields form when it receives a tab character, and everything goes in the first field.

  No idea what happened?

  Better yet, there is a topic a chance: parameter of config to change to make it work again?

  Failing that, is it possible to revert to the previous version of Firefox 15?

  Thank you.

  Jack

  Good... ignore the above. It is a real problem with the update of Firefox 15, but a member of our staff has designed a work around for our macro program.

  See you soon.

  Jack

• How to assign a macro key to type the email address?

  How can I assign a macro key to type my email address?
  A lot of sites that use under the user name email address required. 24 characters is a lot of typing.
  My OS is Windows 7 Home Premium.

  Try the extension of cuts:

  • Press clippings: https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/clippings/