Quality Edition

Similar Questions

• Items 9, DSLR H.264 - codec is preferable to the highest quality & edit with?

  Hi all

  I have some footage DSLR that I recently shot using a Canon 5 d.  I first Adobe Elements 9 and it really chokes down the system.  I have a PC with i7 and 8 GB of RAM.

  What would be the best file format to convert H.264 images for editing while maintaining the best possible quality.  The images were shot at 24 fps.  Please give a detailed description of how to convert - there are a lot of settings in the Advanced tab of the section share in PrE 9.

  Thanks in advance,

  Brian

  OK, "two layers of video", will be an overlay and so the red line. For a smoother reading, rendering will be very beneficial.

  Good luck

  Hunt

• How can I get the best video quality on a DVD from .avi files?

  This first effort with elements first 13, I had a company to convert my movies to 50 (8mm) in digital files (.avi).  But the company cannot know how their sequence so I will try to make the DVD 'movies '.  I want to make for parents to use (so they work in most consumer DVD players).

  I tried to make Blu - ray movies, but (using M-record) they wouldn't even play in my Blu - ray player.  Then I tried to make AVCHD movies, but 31% of the process, I get a "transcription error."  So I made DVDs with the program, but the quality is (I think) even worse 8mm films they came.  They appear more grainy for me until I discovered the files on the computer.

  Question 1: Can I do better?

  1a: If that AVCHD would be better, is my problem only to use the right type of disc?

  Question 2: Each film PREL only 30 minutes and uses less than 2 GB to the drive.  Assuming that better quality images would use even less than 4.7 GB, is there an easy way to combine two movies PREL?  Making each .avi files has been a challenge...

  -First elements 13

  -DVD - R verbatim discs

  -HP laptop burner

  Very well! This is a video of good quality, editable file. However, this is a standard definition video file and it will not produce a good high-def or BluRay video.

  That said, when you add the video to your timeline first 13 elements, the program should implement your project according to the specifications of your video. And, When you do, you should be able to easily output a very nice DVD to research.

• is there a way I can lower the resolution to edit settings smoother?

  I'm sure this is a noob question, but I do not use After Effects a ton. Partly because the change is always such a drag. I am currently working on a 2010 mac book pro that I invest in a quality editing machine.

  I know edition and playback in real resolution in real time is ideal, but my laptop can not handle this.

  Is it possible I can do editing smoother sequelae. Although the project seems to low resolution and I can get out put later in the resolution of cases?

  Thank you.

  That and much more, is covered in the resources linked here: optimize for performance: Adobe Premiere Pro and After Effects

• Tips for Windows users who have chosen Macintosh

  Hello!

  If you read this discussion, so I'm assuming that you are now the proud owner of an iMac. Congratulations for your choice and welcome in the Macintosh community! The purpose of this discussion is to create a reference guide for users who have recently acquired a Mac and learn how to do many basic tasks as we used to do in Windows, but on a Macintosh instead. I will do my best to add content to this guide based on the feedback of the community, but for now, here is a list of topics that I find very useful for the first time that Mac users.

  Q: "that Mac has a right-click?

  A: right-click functionality is present on your Mac. If you use a third party with two buttons separate, then mouse right click is available in the same way that you're used to. If you opted to use the mouse Magic Mouse, you can activate "secondary click" by opening system preferences (the silver gear on your dock icon), by selecting 'Mouse' and check 'secondary click. " Now, the right side of your mouse Magic Mouse will provide right click functionality. Alternatively, you can press the control key on your keyboard while you press the button on your Magic Mouse to have access to the same functions. If you use the Magic Trackpad, you can enable secondary click in the same way you would with the Magic Mouse, but you will be rather type the Magic Trackpad with two fingers in order to access, click on functions.

  Q: "is there a keyboard shortcut that works like Alt + F4 to close the Mac?"

  A: there are indeed shortcut that allows you to stop your Mac from your keyboard. Press command + Eject and you will see a menu that says "restart, sleep, cancel, Shut Down. By default, 'Shut Down' is already highlighted, which means that all you have to do is press the Enter key. Just like that, you closed your Macintosh.

  Q: "what is the keyboard shortcut to close an application?

  A: for closing of an application you are using, press command + Q. Note that by tapping on the red circle (or red x, depending on which version of Mac OS X you are running) in the upper left corner of your application window does not close the application. By pressing the red circle only will leave the current application window, but keep the app running in the background.

  Q: "is there is start menu? How can I find my installed applications? »

  R: OS X, the advanced operating system that powers your Macintosh, manages the launch of applications and the user interface of Windows separately. First of all, installed applications can be read of Launchpad. To access Launchpad, you can click on the rocket icon silver on your dock (the dock is the place where a row of icons for application on the bottom of your screen). Alternatively, you can press the Launchpad shortcut key on the keyboard that came with your iMac. The shortcut key for Launchpad is F4. Second, you can use the Finder to display each application, the document or the file that is currently on your computer. Finder is the blue smiling icon on your dock, also known as the "Happy Mac" icon Open Finder, and listed on the sidebar will be the Applications folder, which will be an alphabetical list of all your applications.

  Q: "How do we install an application?

  R: If you use the Mac App Store to buy your software, everything you have to do is click on 'Install' once you have bought the application. If you use an application that sits on a DVD - ROM, or that you have downloaded from the Internet, then there are two methods that you will encounter. The first method is via an installation wizard, similar to Windows. Just follow the instructions given by the installation wizard, and the installer will do the rest. The second and the most common method is to mount the .dmg file (.dmg is an extension of a disk image file) by double-clicking it, and then dragging the icon of the application in your Applications folder. You can access your Applications folder in the Finder.

  Q: "how to ". uninstall applications? »

  
  

  A: the process of uninstalling applications on a Macintosh computer is fairly simple and often does not require the user to face a "Uninstall Wizard. Open the Finder, blue, smiling face icon located on your dock. Select 'Applications' in the sidebar. Locate the icon of the application that you want to install, and then you click-and - drag the icon to the trash icon on your dock. Once the application of the Recycle Bin icon, you can open the trash and choose "Empty" in the upper right. Just like that, your application is removed from your Macintosh.

  Q: "How do I find my Mac for files and applications.

  R: OS X and its antecedent, Mac OS, introduced the innovation, fully integrated desktop search, first with Sherlock and now with the projector. To access Spotlight, you can click on the magnifying glass icon in the upper right of the bar at the top of your screen. Once you click this icon, you will need to type in a search field. Start typing the name of the folder, file, document or application you are looking for, and Spotlight will provide a list by category that matches the query expression, you typed.

  Q: "How do I defragment my hard drive?

  
  

  A: Unlike Windows, OS X uses the HFS + file system. By default, HFS + automatically defragments the files on your hard drive. In other words, you have nothing to do at all, that OS X is "smart" enough to handle this task on its own. Please note that there are some third-party defragmentation tools that are available online. Avoid these tools, not only because they are unnecessary, but also because they run the risk of harming your Macintosh, rather than help them.

  Q: "How do I clean the registry?

  R: OS X does not make use of a registry to store application settings. Applications running in OS X are, for the most part, autonomous. So there is no registry for your management.

  Q: "what is the equivalent of Mac Control Panel?

  R: on the Macintosh, the 'System Preferences' is the tool that allows users to manage things like wallpaper, devices, user accounts, network settings and much more. "System preferences" can be found by clicking the gear icon money on your dock, or using the dashboard to choose "System Preferences" icon or by opening Finder, select 'Applications' in the sidebar and clicking on the icon "System Preferences."

  Q: "what is the equivalent of Mac of MS Paint?"

  A: Macintosh is a great computer to create media rich content and Apple offers several solutions for the production of such content. However, Apple does not provide equivalent software workaround for MS Paint. There are however a number of fantastic offers from third parties that provide a comparable and in many ways, superior functionality. I recommend an app called GIMP, acronym for "GNU Image Manipulation Program". GIMP has no monetary cost and may be acquired from the GIMP project site. Alternatively, you can use the Mac App Store and download a tool such as supreme paint, which is a tool of low-cost ($4.99 at the time of this writing) which also offers features similar to MS Paint and GIMP. Here are links to each

  GIMP: https://www.gimp.org/downloads/

  Supreme paint: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/supremepaint-fully-functional/id993977111?mt=12

  Q: "what is the equivalent of Mac of Windows Movie Maker"

  A: every new Mac comes with the suite iLife software, including Garageband and iMovie. iMovie is a robust application that offers edition advanced functions and effects not found in Windows Movie Maker. If you are interested in a more powerful tool, Apple also offers Final Cut Pro, which offers a studio quality editing solution, with an interface that is familiar to users of iMovie.

  Q: "what is equivalent to Mac from Windows Media Player?"

  A: every Mac is QuickTime Player, a media player that supports a number of media formats, including AIFF, MP3, MP4, WAV, JPEG, MPEG files and many others still. If you play a DVD, you will need to use the DVD player, which is a separate application that is preinstalled on your Mac. Alternatively, you can use iTunes to watch and listen to all the same formats of files supported by QuickTime Player. You can also buy movies on the iTunes store and watch them in the iTunes application.

  I highly recommend that you are reading switch Basics: on Windows, I used to... - Apple Support and also https://www.apple.com/support/macbasics/pctomac/

  The use of a Mac is extremely simple, millions of PC users are passed successfully (including myself 10 + years), it takes very little time to become proficient.

  Moreover, drefragging a HD is not necessary on a PC and not a Mac. It is the thought of the early 1990s and was not necessary for many years. If you start playback as the two links provided, you will find all your answers, more I HIGHLY recommend that you look at the site of Apple OS X, located at http://www.apple.com/osx/

  Good luck and welcome to the light side.

• 1440x1080i standard mpeg2 preset produces smooth edges on the front, but the jagged edges in again.

  Hi all

  I using first and Encore CS5.  I shot some videos using the Canon H1 in interlaced HD (1440 x 1080 60i).  When I use the export of first media to produce the same video as an mpeg2 file using the standard 1440x1080i 29.978 high quality preset, the video look great with any of the jagged edges.   However, by using the preset even, I keep getting jagged edges when I still used to produce a video of first bluray disc using adobe dynamic link.  I tried to change the order of the fields but no luck.

  I do not understand why the video looks a lot like a 1400 x 1080 I mpeg2 file played on my 60 "computer HDTV but jaggy sharp when played on the HD TV of the bluray player.

  Does anyone have an idea?

  Do not use anything that says game or automatic.

  Try to export from first to H.264 BluRay (it's a better codec then mpeg2) 1440x1080i 25 high quality with maximum use made quality and no use Preview or HDTV 1080i25 also with max render and no preview.

  Import into Encore, do menu and burn.

  You can use DL but use one of the above parameters that can be set in the settings of quality Edit.

• Transcoding in Encore CS5 settings

  I have two questions:

  1. How can I see my settings for transcoding (including the 'quality' after all finished transcoding tab?

  2. How will I know that transcoding (automatic) arrived at my best quality for a large project settings (~ 120 minutes SD) if "is space" bit is MB? (I'm sure that if the remaining space is of the order of GB, then transcoding "did his best" but in the case of a few MB, I don't know).

  Thank you

  LACI.

  If the project is 120 chronology of the DVD will be definitely filled.

  Make sure that you check use restore maximum quality in the Presets of quality Edit (which will be under file)

  If you want the best quality don't put no more then 60-90 minutes on a single DVD.

  If your calendar is more than 90 minutes, making a double layer.

  Then, you can use a bitrate calculator and get the best settings.

  http://DVD-HQ.info/bitrate_calculator.php?PHPSESSID=6501b6b2b31f4c4a295bc8c2ba1e6f57

• EncoreCS3 error: PGC... .resolution not supported...

  Hi all

  I'm trying to convert a former home made movie in a DVD, and when I try to burn the DVD in Encore, it won't burn because I get this error message.

  Here are my steps...

  I captured video using a software product from Roxio (Easy VHS to DVD)

  I captured video as an .mpeg

  I then imported the files video .mpeg Encore CS3

  Then I put the video files in a timeline

  I then added a basic menu, related buttons in the clips and then set the end actions.

  I checked my project in the 'Build' menu and then click the project "building site".

  I use a DVD-R 16 x 4.7 GB DVD disc manufacturers

  I also tried a Verbatim DVD + R 16 x DVD

  Still, then opens with window Build progress bar and begins to build the DVD

  About 2 or 3 seconds in the construction of the DVD, it appears with an error code that says:

  PGC 'Test_DVD_ SP_32MB' has an error in 61.9953 s.

  The resolution of this file is not supported by DVD. PGC - Info: name = Test_DVD SP_32MB, Ref = Fpgc, time = 61.9953 s

  

  ^ ^ ^ Here is a picture of the error message ^ ^ ^

  The name of my video clip is "Test _ DVD SP_32 MB"

  I would like to know how to solve this problem, so I could burn the DVD. Is there something wrong with my DVD, the video format or?

  Any help is appreciated.

  Nicholas

  I went back to look at my presets under file > quality Edit presets

  You don't to change presets, select No for the specific asset you want to (transcode re).

  In the project bin, look to the right assets.  First of all, there is a setting for a DVD project, the Bluray.  What you describe in previous posts, is that you see 'do not transcode.'  Click right and under transcoding settings, change that to the desired preset.

  Edit: screenshot showing an asset set to automatic and the other in a specific "Preset".  Then open a screen capture with transcode setting window.

  

  

• Tips / tricks to store more DV Clips

  Don't need to drill anyone with details but this week I captured all my old tapes VHS-C (home movies). This amounted to about 200 GB in native DV format. I'm trying to clean up a bit, identification / marking the scenes etc.

  The idea is to create a set of DVD with a game cut scenes, but I want to keep digital copies of the tapes I have.

  Starting in the next 2 weeks or so I'll do the same thing with all the Mini DV tapes I and storage needs will just continue to grow.

  I have an external drive 1 TB for this digitization project, but it seems that the 12 GB per hour of uncompressed DV (Microsoft DV AVI) could get the better of this disc.

  What is a good way to store, is there a good editing (using PRE 8) codec for once or twice a year I have to include a scene or two that offers a good level of compression? Just need to find a balance between quality, editability and space.

  Thank you

  If you plan to edit this video once again at some point, you'll want to keep in DV - AVI format. Certainly, to 13 GB per hour, leaving only your room for about 75 hours of video on a 1 terrabyte drive. But, Hey, it's a lot of video!

  You could, as an alternative, burn MPEG2 DVD - about an hour and a half per disc. (Three hours on a dual-layer disc). But then, you have the messy conversion to editable video, and that can sometimes be difficult.

  As an alternative, you can save all your videos to miniDV Tape - an hour at a time. But with 2 drives terrabyte sells for less than $100, for my money (and time) they are stored on an external hard drive is not only the most economical but is also the easiest storage system to remember when you are ready to edit your files.

• Best of preset to use for rendering / re-release.

  Hi all.

  I'm working on a video of 90 to 120 minutes which consists of a couple of different projects. To combine the projects, I would like to make each project and then use the video rendering to compile the larger project.

  Video source is from a Canon HF20, Full HD 1920 X 1080 P. 30

  Which preset should I use on small projects to make each of those that will allow the best quality / editability?

  There will be some changes in the final project, but it will be mostly just transitions, titles, etc.

  The ultimate target is BD and HD streaming.

  Thank you

  You'll want to create a project that uses the AVCHD 1920x1080i settings, of course, collect your raw video.

  But, if you want to export to a hi-def format finally easier to edit, use Share/computer/MPEG using the 1440 x 1080 preset. This will produce a file that will edit natively in a project by using the the HDV project preset.

• I upload images using the adobe stock for my work, however, if an image has more of an icon in it whenever I have the image that I'm losing quality is this something to do with the document or the way I am editing?

  As noted below this picture was originally part of a group and the second image is the best quality, I could do after editing it.

  This image was originally part of a group of images, but we didn't need all the other images, with that we just need this one when I cropped on the other images and resized is the quality of the image, I found myself

  

  

  wwhen you say you cropped one out I think that, for me, it looks like you cropped in Photoshop or other photo software. This image looks like it's probably a file AI that you can modify and access to any size you want using Adobe Illustrator.

• Keep small size without loss of quality over far during re-registration edited JPG

  Hi all

  I have a bunch of pictures of a photographer I need to put a credit. They are all very light (~ 50 k) as they have been saved with JPG compression to only about 900 x 600px.

  My problem is that when I run the action to add the credit, the file is saved as a JPG file but the only way to achieve a similar weight is to set the compression level 2, resulting in a massive loss of quality. With a quality to 12 files increase around 200 k! Is it possible that I can keep the size of the original (or similar) file even if I am actually starting with a new image by editing? The photo credit is added on the edge, not bunk.

  Thank you

  Carpet

  Hi mast

  50 KB for a 900 x 600 pixels image is on the small side and suggests either a high-compression JPG or even save for Web has been used before they came for you.  200 KB is a file size reasonable for a good quality JPG of this size.  It's one of those situations "it is what it is."   Degree of activity are the images?  I'm guessing that you realize that images of high frequency with a lot of details and small blocks of different color, will not compress nearly as well as something like a little bird in a blue sky, so the specific images, you work on will of course affect the size of the file.

  You can get the original files in an uncompressed format?

  The file size is critical?  that is, this is for the use of the web, or what?

  At the present stage, there is no solution that will maintain the quality and the size of the file.

• Best way to edit a JPG file in Photoshop while minimizing loss of quality?

  I want to change a lot of pictures of the camera (captured in JPG format) to correct (and sometimes framing and other) exposure issues, but want to reduce to a minimum of loss of quality when I re - save the file. It is preferable to open each image in Camera Raw, make the adjustments, then use 'Save the Image' of the screen of Camera Raw to save my changes? I noticed that this results in a smaller file than the original (for example 1.95 Mb vs 3.75 MB), but wanted to make sure I was using the optimal method for opening/editing/backup to avoid losing too much image quality.

  I think that if you open a Jpg file in camera raw and that through bridge, just the metadata are saved, the image is not recompressed. So what would be the best way to make changes

• I'm aerial video shooting with a GoPro H3 to 1080 p 30 FPS and want to edit videos and give them to my clients to use media as much as possible for their advertising and marketing needs.  I would like to give them to the highest quality of all the

  I'm aerial video shooting with a GoPro H3 + 1080 p 30 FPS and wants to edit videos and give them to my clients to use media as much as possible for their advertising and marketing needs.  I would like to give them to the highest authorized quality.  What form does save it to "publish and share?  I have the first 12 items.

  KM

  Can we assume that your 1080 p 30 is an AVCHD.mp4 file or other?

  You manually or automatically, the project should define the project preset

  NTSC

  DIGITAL SLR

  1080 p

  DSLR 1080 30 p @29.97

  (If your rate is really 30 instead of 29.97, then go with 1080 p 30 instead of DLSR 1080 p 30 @29.97 DSLR)

  See the following link to set the preset manually project

  http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2013/04/pe11-accuracy-of-automatic-project.html

  For your exports

  Publish + share

  Computer

  AVCHD

  with Presets = MP4 - H.264 1920 x 1080 p 30

  Please let us know if you have any other questions on this or you need any clarification on what written.

  Thank you.

  RTA

• Loss of quality when editing in Photoshop from Lightroom

  I just noticed this tonight for the first time in nearly two years, and I hope it was not ruining my quality this time together.  I worked on an image in Lightroom, got the contrast and the perfect color and when I went to "Edit in Photoshop" it completely shaved on my photo of blackening of most of my lighter areas and it is horrible.  Discover the sky in these two pictures to see what I mean.  Any ideas? I have LR3 and CS4 if that helps...

  

  It of ok, go to the Preferences dialog box and press the button reset warning dialog boxes, then he will reappear.  Open in any case explain - LR3 has CS5 or later to open rendered identical using anyway.  If you choose rendered using Lightroom, it must pass over the rendering correctly.