Rebel EOS XS automotive lenses?

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• Will be 5 d Mark III and T5, T5i and T6i rebel use the same lenses

  I have the 5 d Mark III and some big L series lenses. I'll buy a rebel for my GF to learn photography. My lenses will work for her T5, T5i or T6i?

  Thank you!

  Yes - but it doesn't work the other way around.

  Canon EOS "EF" series lenses (including all your 'L' series lenses) will work on ANY body camera Canon EOS Digital or analogue, and regardless of whether a digital camera has a sensor size full frame (like the 5 d which has a sensor the same size as a 35 mm film negative) or a crop-frame camera (as the series body rebels who use the size of the) sensor 'APS - C' which is a bit smaller.)

  But suppose you get your GF body rebel... it'll come with a "kit" lens (usually this kit lens is the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II or EF - S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM).  But that goal is an EF-S lens.  The image that projects of the lens in the camera body is large enough to fill the surface of the sensor to a corner to for an APS - C sensor... but it is NOT an image large enough to cover the size of a sensor full-frame corner.  Advantage of the EF-S-objectives, is that they can produce a high quality image that does not need more large than an EF lens, and because of this, they are able to reduce the manufacturing cost of the lens and THIS means that the lens can be offered at a lower price than the somewhat similar focal ranges EF lenses.

  These objectives EF-S can be used on any digital camera Canon EOS which has a sensor size 'APS - C' (any body of the rebel, also all the 20 d with 70 d series), as well as the 7 d bodies but may not be used on any body of the camera which uses a larger sensor (any body standard standard 6 d or 1 d 5 d requires "EF" lenses).

  Specialty lenses like the tilt-shift (TS-E) and the extreme (MP-E) macrophoto lens can be used on any EOS body (just like the objectives EF.)

• What Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D?

  Hi, I'm new to the era of digital and older than 55 years.  My husband bought me a Canon Rebel EOS T3 1100 D in July.   (I fought the "technological" upgrade until my old film camera Canon quit on me).  I took pictures since 1966, so I'm not new to photograph, just for our technological advances.

  I would be very grateful if someone could help me with which Flash Speedlite will work with my Canon Rebel T3 D 1100 camera specific.

  I thank very you much for your time.

  I just got my 430EX II that I bought for use with my Rebel T2i. The main reason I bought the Canon product was... using Canon products, I have never had a failure or a bad experience of 60 years. I use the LL 430EX for a few days and I'm very happy with the results. Much, much better than the built-in flash. It is on sale now with free shipping of Fed X. It is hard to beat.

  Good luck with your new camera.

  Joe

• Are there any drivers for the canon digital rebel eos 300 d for Windows 7

  Are there any drivers for the canon digital rebel eos 300 d for Windows 7?

  Hello

  Like you need help with the driver for Canon digital rebel EOS 300 d, you will need to contact the manufacturer of the product for the driver. According to the Windows 7 compatibility check, this particular camera is not compatible with 32-bit (x 86) as a 64-bit (x 64) operating system.

  For more information about the Windows 7 compatibility, visit this link: http://www.microsoft.com/windows/compatibility/windows-7/en-us/Search.aspx?l=en-us&s=canon%20digital%20rebel%20EOS%20300D&type=Hardware&page=1&os=32-bit

  For more information about the driver, visit this link: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_digital_rebel?selectedName=DriversAndSoftware

  I hope that helps!

• Looking better all the objective for an EOS 20 d lenses

  Hello world.  I've had my EOS 20 d for over 10 years now.  I've never been satisfied with the 18-55mm EFS lens it comes with.  Just don't have enough zoom or wide angle.  I don't do anything professional.  Simply take a lot of family and outdoor / nature shots.  I would like to be able to take pictures of quality portrait and a picture of the grand canyon and turn out great.  I would like to be able to take just a lens with me on vacation.

  I was look at the EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens.  He seems to have everything.  Will there be any multi-purpose lens that I should look?

  Thank you

  Dallas

  "The STM 55-250 will be able to take pictures of nice wide angle too?

  It depends on your definition of wide angle. I think most would say no.  If you start thinking about "AOV" perspective, it will be easier to say.

  A 55mm lens on your 20 d has an AOV of 28 degrees (approximately).  It's not very wide?  Your 18mm lens has an AOV of 84 degrees.

  The specification AOV is easy to find because it is not in all the specifications of lenses. BTW, 250mm is about 6 degrees.

  Canon is supposed to be coming out with a Canon EF-S 18-300mm f/3.5-5.6 lens of STM IS.  I don't know if it's on sale again then you might want to check.  AOV will be 84 to 5 degrees (approximately) wide enough of Nice TV, is it not?  The more AOV is the largest angle.  The smaller the number, the TV is.

• Auto flash in creative modes, close-up and portrait on Rebel EOS T5?

  When you photograph in creative Auto modes, Portrait and close-up on my EOS Rebel Rebel T5, Auto flash 1200 keeps flickering and sometimes I am unable to take pictures for some reason any. Is there a way to disable the automatic blinking and keep it? How can I solve this problem? I try to stay there and finally, it will take a picture with the flash if I understand just fine, but sometimes it will not even. Is this a problem with the backlight or something? Thank you.

  It seems that the camera can use flash as a light to help him to focus in the dark.

  The camera will automatically appear the flash in auto mode, but if the lighting is not sufficient to allow the camera to focus, the camera will quickly burst flash for about 1 second in order to create enough light to allow the lens to focus.

  If the focus points are not on a subject that allows for sufficient contrast to focus in this 1 second then the camera may refuse to take the picture.

  The pop-up flash is not particularly powerful (the built-in flashes are never very powerful on cameras) and the subject must be close enough to make it work.  If they are too far away it will fail.

  Some Canon Speedlite flashes have a focus-assist beam 9e.g. the 430EX II and III-430EX RT all have two of it than many others).  The device emits a red motif which is sufficient to allow the camera to lock focus quickly even in very dark situations.

• Rebel EOS 300 d: NEED a DRIVER

  My husband bought an EOS Rebel years 300 d.  I installed the software on my laptop, with Windows 7, but I can't find a driver.  Where I find a driver?

  I don't think that you need a driver. Change of connection of the camera in the Menu to the MTR.

• best settings for shooting outdoors? Canon rebel eos t3i

  my brother is getting married this Saturday the 15, it'll be a wedding in the open air at 4 pm Pacific time. The weather is sunny highs of 74 depressions 55 with a chance of flurries. What are the best GENERAL setting to record the ceremony? I am a newbie of camera so I don't know squat! any help would be greatly appreciated.

  Outside "Sun", I would like to use a flash.  The difference in the sunny vs parts of a shadow of your subjects will be extreme in the middle of the day sun, but the use of the flash ("fill-in flash") so that the outside is a great way to improve the appearance of a sudden.

  "Program" mode on the mode selector switch.

  Lift the pop-up flash (the small button near the mode dial with lightning bolt symbol unlock the catch hook and triggers the flash.)

  Note that when you look through the viewfinder to take a picture, there is some information on the background... which most is information on the exhibition.  But on the left side, you will see a little lightning icon.  If you see this icon, it means that the camera will use flash when you take the picture.

  In the basic modes, you have little control over when the camera will use the flash (it's automatic), but in the modes "creative zone" (program, Tv, Av and M), you have full control and can force the camera to use flash.    HOWEVER, using "program" mode is the same as the fully automatic mode (green box) * except * that you can replace several things that you can not override when using fully automatic.

  It would be much better if you had an external (for example like the Canon 430EX II) speedlite because the built-in pop-up flash is very limited (subjects must be ready for that flash have much effect).

  When I shoot outdoors (I also turns a wedding tomorrow), I put a feature called "Flash Exposure Compensation" to "-1".»  You can find instructions on this page 102 of your instruction manual (not the 'basic instructions manual"... the full version of the instruction manual for your camera.)  "Flash exposure corrections" asks the camera to determine how much it needs power flash (which is what it normally does), but then adjust the amount of energy upwards or downwards according to the level of "compensation" that you set.  The reason why I have dial down is that I don't want my pictures to have the look of people generally associated with photography flash... I want to still of the Sun to be the main source of light... and I want the flash to fill in deep shadow (located still have shadows... but they are going to be weak shadows instead of strong shadows).  This allows to improve lighting.

  When you go inside, you want to disable "flash exposure compensation" feature by assigning to '0' (zero, does not change the amount of flash - regardless of the camera wants to do).

• Discussion questions with rebel eos of cannon during the action of street shootings? Why are my blurry pictures?

  In situations on a tripod or in most other situations my camera and objectives seem to focus well. In a stable situation where the subject does not have many, I simply turn the wheel around the focal point I want the camera to focus on my photos are usually good, but I found that I love street photography and capture people who do things. Sometimes, they are moving toward or away from me. .. I use a wide-angle F2.8 and generally have no worries to keep larger than the focal length shutter speed... I keep the camera autofocus and AWB... So why are both my photos blurry... I don't have time to every shot to lift the unit and turn the wheel to emphasize a particular point if I usually leave a central development... What should I do to get my shots in short without looking through the viewfinder with each stroke?

  Note that the update "AI Servo" difference in mode of development of "One Shot" in terms of what it does when you press the shutter button.

  In "One Shot" mode, the device uses "Focus priority".  This means that the camera will NOT take a hit if the lens is in auto-focus mode until it can confirm that he was able to focus on the selected AF point (or on a Focus point if you let point AF Auto selection) in brief: realize the development is more important than shooting at the precise moment when you press the button.  That's why "focus priority".

  In "AI Servo" mode, the device uses "release priority".  This means that when you press the shutter button completely, the device will take the shot immediately and it will do so if he had time to reach the focus... or not.    In short: capture the shot at the precise moment when you press the shutter button is more important to achieve focus.   That's why "release priority".

  If you quickly press the shutter button to take a picture, the camera will shoot first and development worry later.  You half - press the shutter to allow the device to reach to the point before you fully - press the key.

• Lenses for the new EOS 70 d

  Hello, how do I know what objectives 'fit' the body of the new EOS 70 d?  I also have the EOS Rebel T2i and these lenses do not match the Organization 70 d.  Thank you... frustrated.

  The 70 d is a cropped sensor, then the EF or EF-S lenses will be good.  Your rebels lenses are made.  Canon lenses only modern that does not either of these cameras are the new mirrorless EF - M lenses.

• SLR/DSLR EOS lens compatibility

  I have several goals that were used with model Canon EOS 750 photo 35mm film SLRs. These lenses will work with all current Canon EOS DSLR models (or models of digital SLR cameras is no longer produced, but I might be able to buy used)?

  Thank you.

  Since your previous camera was a 35mm film camera he used lenses that produce a large enough 'circle image' inside the housing of the device.   The image had to be large enough to completely cover the image of 35mm film.

  On a digital camera, a 'full frame' sensor body (for example a 6 d, 5 d or more bodies 1 d) have sensors that are the size of a 35 mm negative film image.

  The lenses that project this image circle large suitable for use on any camera EOS 35mm or camera ' film' 'digital' full frame EOS are called "EF" series lenses (they are always "EOS" lenses... but they have a prefix of model... as 'EF 50 mm f/1.4 USM' - notice the "EF" in front of the name.)

  Canon EOS series "EF" lenses can be used on ANY Canon "EOS" body - that it's a movie or a digital body and the functions will not work.  for example if it's an autofocus lens so the autofocus will not work.  The camera will be able to control the aperture settings, etc.  You can consider these "EF" lenses as being universal in all EOS bodies.

  But there is another sensor size which is extremely frequent.

  All cameras series 'Rebel', as well as all the cameras of intermediate level (20 d, 30 d, 40 d, 50 d, 60 d and 70 d) as well as the 7 d, all use of "APS - C" sized sensors.  This sensor is about the size of a single image of "Advanced Photo System" - Classic film of size, which is a little smaller than 35mm film.   The sensor is smaller, they have the ability to use a lens that projects a small image circle.

  These cameras can use lenses that project a small circle of image because they have a smaller sensor size.  Cannon made a series of lenses for these smaller sensors.  Here's the "EF-S" series lenses  You will know that their name becauase a "EF-S" prefix as "EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 STM" (note the "EF-S" prefix in front of the name).  These lenses are able to take advantage of the cost savings, because lentils do not need to project a large image circle.

  While all the organs of "Rebel" and all intermediate level (except the 10 d) agencies may "EF-s lenses", they can ALSO use "EF" lenses (don't forget... "EF" lenses are universal to all Canon EOS bodies).    The 10 d is the only exception, but it is a very old camera and has not been in production for years.

• Taking wide angle, inside still shot s for rental properties with my Rebel T3i

  I am the owner of the apartments and really struggled to get good shots of small rooms. My Rebel EOS T3i came with the EFS 18-55mm and 55-250 mm lens kit. I took a few photos wide-angle still rooms with lens 18-55 mm EFS, but my apartment rooms are usually quite small (think of the living rooms of 12 x 12 and small bath, etc.).  I just want to be able to adapt a bit more in the picture I'm getting right now, and I just can't back up far enough in the room. A slight distortion is OK. I saw some pictures of the great Hall with an adjustible 10-22mm, but I don't know if I need an adjustable lens, and it seems that they cost much more. Someone recommended using a fixed lens. Any ideas on a good objective fixed size (if all goes well at a reasonable price) which should work well with my camera to this effect.  I am a newbie so sorry if I did not give sufficient details. Ideas that you can give me would be great.

  EF-S 10-22mm lens lens is probably just what the doctor ordered.  If you wish, rent a copy (many places rent them... LensRentals, BorrowLenses, B & H Photo, etc.) and try before you buy - but I suspect it's the goal you want.  There is competition a few lenses with similar focal length ranges... the Canon tends to get the best reviews.

  It is a lens wide angle 'straight'--which means that all the "straight" will actually continue as 'straight' in your photos. In a "Fish-eye" lens straight lines (aka "curvilinear") are not preserved and will appear rounded (unless the line gets to pass through the center of the image).

  But there is a problem... If you're not careful, these objectives very wide angle will change things that * should * appear as rectangles (windows, doors, etc.) will turn into trapezoids (keystone forms) - and in architecture, it may look unpleasant.

  To avoid this, the camera must be 'level '.  Make sure that the lens is not slanted downwards or upwards - leave the level.  As long as the appliance is level, the lines on the sides of your doors and windows will be standing and not lean - creating wonky shapes.

  Good luck!

• Can I wireless use a 430 EX II as a slave with the flash integrated the T3i EOS?

  I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can launch a remote speedlite wireless from the camera.  I get an error message cannot find the speedlite even if I set up my 430 EX II speedlite according to its instructions manual, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help

  Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can trigger remotely the speedlite.

  It of a little complicated and can be confusing.

  First... set the 430EX II in the correct mode.  Press and HOLD the 'Zoom' button for 2 seconds approximately.  This active a menu that allows you to put the flash is in a mode single-fash vs remote "slave".  Semicircular keys to switch to read 'slave '.  Press 'set' (in the middle of these buttons of a semicircle shape.)  I happen to have my 430EX II practical, but it must default to the slave 'A' channel '1 '.

  Now for the camera.

  On your camera menu, tab to the left (which we'll call 'Caméra Red #1' to distinguish it from other tabs) has 'Flash' control as the last option on this screen.  Either way for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is marked 'Flash Control'.  For devices that do NOT have the built-in pop-up flash, this menu is called "Flash speedlite external control.

  In this submenu (Flash control), make sure "Flash of fire" (the top option) is set to 'Enable' or 'CustWireless' - should NOT be set to 'disable' or nothing will work.

  You will see a menu choice for "external Flash func. parameter' (and also 'External flash C.Fn setting'.)  IGNORE THESE!  This is for the hot flashes that are in the camera hotshoe and do NOT control the remote flashes wireless.  This is probably where you were getting confused.

  Then go to "built-in flash func. the parameters' where, paradoxically, you get to control how your device communicates with your flash REMOTE (Yes, I know that this is not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it is your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicating with any flash slave remote.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (many people assume that it is a communication infrared - me is understood - at the end of the day, I learned that was incorrect and it's actually the visible light of the flash itself.)  He quickly sends communication to remote control by pulse codes to tell flash what to do remotely.  All this happens until the image is exposed and you'd swear the only blinked once eyes flash... but it turns out that it is actually very busy away from the impulse to connect).

  In the "func flash built-in. menu of settings"there are a number of things that you must set.

  If you set the flash mode built in 'EasyWireless' it will be gray on many other parameters... basically the camera automatically decides what he wants to do.  I think that the only definition not gray is the channel number (which must match the channel number on your flash.  Channel numbers helps you can draw on events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and have no conflicts where they are triggering your flashes and vice versa.

  If you set the flash mode built in "CustWireless" it allows you to set other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  In the end, it's probably mode you will use the most, once you get used to distance Speedlites.

  In CustWireless, the menu option 'Wireless' Func mode. becomes available.  This option allows you to decide if you want (I take these out of use for simplicity to explain):

  (a) speedlites both internal and external to the fire as a single group (icon external flash, a PLUS sign (+) and the camera icon)

  (b) the Speedlite flashes inside and outside to the fire, but allowing you to control the power RATIO (icon external flash, a COLON symbol ( and the camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.))

  (c) only external Speedlites (only the external flash icon is on this option - no icon on the device).

  I want to mention something about this external option only because it confuses most people initially.  The device communicates with the slave through the on-camera flash.  The flash on the camera quickly pulses to send the instructions for flashes to distance.  This means that to use the slave flashes, the on-camera flash must be addressed (in jumps - upward position).  If you ask for external flash only (without camera) the flash on the camera flashed only instructions BEFORE the opening of the shutter of the camera to take the exhibition.  When I started to learn from external Speedlite flashes, I saw the light on-camera flash and thought that my settings were ignored.  Do not worry... When you archive your images, you will see that there is no light provided by the on-camera flash during exposure... all this flashing comes before the opening of the shutter.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes triggered only once... but in reality they are actually much of 'talk' before taking the picture, but this happens at an incredible speed.

  And one last comment... because the camera communicates through Optics (visible light) flash to talk to remote controls, it is important from the bottom of the body of your 430EX II can 'see' the flash on the camera.  In small parts, that no matter where the lower part of the body showed up... you notice the impulses of the light of the on-camera flash.  But in large halls or outside the lower body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) will have any reflection of the walls, etc.  In this case, simply turn the lower part of the body of the 430EX II so that it faces the on-camera flash.  You can then rotate the head of the 430EX II at the point where you need.  The 430EX II will trigger even in daylight, as long as it can 'see' as the on-camera flash.

  Here is a video that can help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A

• Memory card T5i Rebel

  I recently bought a well-known national retailer T5i Rebel Eos.  The day of the expedition, the company called me and asked me if I had the memory card, I would need to "better" using my new T5i?  I've always used 16 or 32 GB SanDisk cards and have been satisfied.  The seller told me that I would need a card that has been "able to givng me the best possible photos with the T5i" and began to suggest that I needed a memory card that cost $149!  I had never heard of a card that cost a lot in truth, much less used one.  He told me that I would not get a lesser quality.

  I moved and you bought a 8 GB card, he suggested that it was $ 69.  I would like to know your opinion on this.  A I 'scammed' and you should report it?  They are a company that has been in business for 55 years they say... I'll check that for sure.

  My question is... do I use this type of card very expensive or is a just as good SanDisk?

  tranquility1112 wrote:

  I recently bought a well-known national retailer T5i Rebel Eos.  The day of the expedition, the company called me and asked me if I had the memory card, I would need to "better" using my new T5i?  I've always used 16 or 32 GB SanDisk cards and have been satisfied.  The seller told me that I would need a card that has been "able to givng me the best possible photos with the T5i" and began to suggest that I needed a memory card that cost $149!  I had never heard of a card that cost a lot in truth, much less used one.  He told me that I would not get a lesser quality.

  I moved and you bought a 8 GB card, he suggested that it was $ 69.  I would like to know your opinion on this.  A I 'scammed' and you should report it?  They are a company that has been in business for 55 years they say... I'll check that for sure.

  My question is... do I use this type of card very expensive or is a just as good SanDisk?

  The Sandisk is probably better. I say this not because Sandisk is considered to be one of the two or three best card lines (although it is), but because what experienced you is a well known form of scam. A camera to match vendor (usually based in Brooklyn, NY, if I understand correctly) you sells a reputable product at a decent price, but then you charge up with accessories that you don't need really overpriced. I guess you should consider yourself lucky (or smart), because apparently you managed to resist the tripod to the cheese, all of the filters of shit, "telephoto" is really just a cheap magnifying glass, etc, etc.

  You these guys to report to the authorities the (who have probably heard the story many times before), but you need to undestand that is one of the costs accepted to shady business practices having to hire better lawyers that your brand can afford. If you refuse to never forget the lesson that you've learned from this, it is probably worth $ 69.

• Cannot read the Raw of EOS 700 d files in CS4

  How to update CS4 and bridge with ACR 5.0 to accept. EOS 700 d CR2 files? Tried to download and install ACR 5.7 but bridge still opens using 5.0. Any help greatly aappreciated, thank you.

  Digital Rebel EOS T51 700 d EOS Kiss X7i is supported in Adobe Camera Raw 7.4of beginning.

  Please see the documentation on Camera Raw plugin | Compatible cameras

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/Creative-Suite/KB/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html

  I know not on what outside Bridge CS4 CS4 product, you refer product however without worrying

  any CS4 app supported by Adobe Camera Raw since version 5.0 to 5.7 only.

  Please refer to another article in the knowledge base on applications of Camera Raw compatible Adobe

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/x-productkb/global/camera-raw-compatible-applications.html