Stopwatch - for sport (hrs:mm:ss:ms)

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• Simple stopwatch for façade (resettable)

  Hello

  I'm relatively new to Labview and programming in general, but I am slowly
  Learn the basics and am setting up a test cell engine jet engine monitoring system using a Daytronic System 10 acquisition unit.  I'm almost done with the VI that I created (it works, too!), but now I'm developing a simple, real-time clock and stopwatch/use timer running, not in the events of synchronization System , but for the calendar of outdoor events.  We currently use a manual stopwatch, but it would be much easier to have something on the screen in front of the motor operator we could click on start/stop and reset.  It seems that all the screws included in the vis for synchronization events.  Any help would be appreciated!

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• Good for the budget for sports and wildlife photography and lenses all day 450

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  Hi cpuetz!

  Thanks for the post.

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  SRW wrote:

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  http://youtu.be/L74OIANGIfw?t=2m35s

  Freeze the video appropriately using time remapping.

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• "Scratch" feature Sports Watch :)

  Hi all!

  Already 6 months to my 'Sport Watch 42'. I really like it, but there's one thing large 'print to spoil. ION - x glass is a low point in this very good product (I already agreed battery of low capacity and the weakness "to life".) I'm really frustrated that apple decides not to install Sapphire in a sport version. (The main point for 'sport' product name is waiting for some more useful "harder" of the product, than other versions of "business/style")

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  Hello

  Apple does not currently of each service (questions 1 and 2).

  I'm afraid that nobody here can tell you what that this either on Apple's plans for services or products without notice (it is a community of technical support user-based) and it is not allowed here to speculate, either.

  A good quality screen protector (film type) can be effective in concealing or reducing the visibility of traces on the screen, as well as to provide some protection against future damage.

  The screen has a coating resistant to fingerprints fingerprints and repellent. It is normal that this coating to wear away under normal conditions of use. Apple recommends not using products cleaning or polishing or Polish the watch with abrasives; These will carry away the coating and can also scratch the glass under.

• timelapse on sports Dial Watch

  Hey there,

  I intend to buy a sport watch. just visit a store nearby, where they have the Apple Watch sport on a usable display.

  but I couldn't find the dials of timelapse 24 HR from New York, Lake Mack, London, Hong Kong and Shanghai on these watches of demo. just the faces of standard watch. I saw these timelapse clockfaces last year shows a friend, and they are brilliant.

  So just to make sure: are the 24 HR timelapse dials available on the sport model as well, or is it just a limitation of watches store demo that they cannot be selected it?

  I'm a fan of timelapse myself and get to know some of the artists who produced these timelapse 24 HR for Apple dial faces. I know, these films are a unique, very iconic artwork. Add to this that an insane amount of work, knowledge and dedication are gone in their production, 24 HR timelapse loops being technically the Holy Grail of the timelapse and super hard. I've never seen such perfect loops 24 HR, add to that crazy light pollution in some of these places photographed, it must have been a nightmare to photograph and to treat only images.

  in any case, it would be nice to at least have a sport watch to be able to see and enjoy the timelapse dials, I don't want to crank more money for basic watch sports. I'm a freeskier and jogger as well, so the watch will be very convenient for sport, impatient for there.

  a pity that they did not bring the 24 HR timelapse clockfaces on iPhone or iPad, which would have been a really cool feature it as well. and I hope that they don't new in the future other places like Europe, Australia etc. so or related scientists, for example the NASA Houston in Texas, imagining a rocket start. CERN Large Hadron Collider, Seoul or Northpole, Mauna Kea telescopes of day and night and other. It would be great.

  No confirmation of this feature on the popular Sports Watch.

  See you soon

  H

  Hello

  Yes - the face of Timelapse is certainly available on all Apple Watch Sport models, as well as all the other faces that are detailed here:

  https://help.Apple.com/watch/#/apd6ce85daf4

• Stopwatch

  Im trying to build a stopwatch for my program. I want to build a stopwatch with start, stop (pause) and reset button, but do not affect the main program, I want to display watch them as seconds, minutes, hours and days (all are in separate digital indicator, im using LabVIEW 2013... Please help me...

  
  

• Volume: Best way to decrease the volume for a portion of a clip

  I have an audio clip of speaking me - about 22 minutes. I knew it would be difficult to change because of its length, so I divided into eight sections and each section has recorded independently.

  However, I made a couple of mistakes here and there. So instead of wasting time to record a whole clip again and again until I understand well, I have just re-recorded paragraphs which should be corrected.

  So, imagine a master audio clip named Project1 in setting up first. In the track above, where the third paragraph starts, is another audio clip - Project1-3. I'm trying to understand the best way to kill the volume on Project1 - just for the duration of the third paragraph. So when I listen, I should hear the patch, Project1-3, instead of the main audio, Project1.

  I checked a few tutorials, but I'm a bit confused. I thought it was something I have to do in the Source monitor, by using keyframes, but it does not work too well.

  I put a screen shot in line @ https://www.geobop.com/images/audio.png

  In the upper left corner, you can see where I created a key by clicking on the Volume and selecting the level. It was set to 0 by default, so I changed the value of-20. But when I preview the video, I can still hear the sound and changes in value-20.

  Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong?

  Thank you.

  Rather than apply keyframes to the Volume setting, you will find may be easier to use the razor tool to split the audio clip called "Project1" into several segments in the timeline panel.  Then, disable the unwanted segment (select it in the timeline panel and choose Clip > enable) or raise TI (press point comma), leaving a space.

  Your tracks can be difficult to hear suddenly as the stopwatch for the effect of Volume Audio is enabled by default.  If you look at the effect controls panel, while the audio is selected, you can proceed to the next and previous keyframe to see what 'level' to each key frame.

• Animation of the PNG files for move of moving images?

  Hi, I have a small project right now and want to go a little overboard with the PNG animation files.

  So I have a moving image, I'm standing on a skateboard and shoot down the floor see photo:

  

  And the picture is rolling forward for about 10 seconds, and I want to animate a work of artists around the Board. See photo (photoshop gross just to show you)

  

  So that the work is in PNG format and I want to animate it such that the Council continues to roll, by animate, I mean simply move or "jiggy" it, is difficult to explain.

  What are my options?  I thought maybe After Effects, but I'm not even too hard on this one here.

  Any help appreciated.

  so maybe it's time to yourself in after effects a little

  Try this, if you want to learn a bit of sequels:

  (it takes about 5 minutes)

  (so much worse that this screenshot is in German, you will find your way around)

  1 duplicate the video clip of skateboarding in your tieline on a video on track (Alt + drag) [just to keep a copy of it below, if you might need it]

  2. right-click the new clip in the timeline panel and choose "replace with After Effects Composition.

  After effects opens (if not already open) and you get a new composition based on your first - chronology.
  Import your artwork, make sure that it is big enough so you can turn without seeing its edges...
  -Drag in the composition above the clip.

  3 right-click in the left part of your composition window, and then choose "new solid" to do a matte.

  4 turn off the visibility of the layer ("eye-icon")

  4B. take the tool pen (P) and draw a mask around skateboarding. (= add mask mode)

  5. set the work track matte layers to ' Alpha 'name of your matte.

  6. with the "pan behind"-tool (shortcut: y) [work layer must be selected] move the anchor point to where you want as the center of rotation to be.

  7. with the layer of the work still selected, press R to display the parameters of rotation.

  8 alt-click on the stopwatch for the rotation animation

  9 type time * 36 in the expression window. (the number will be the degree of rotation per second, so 36 you will get a full evolution by ten seconds. change this value, according to the needs: plus = faster.)

  10. keep

  11 Preview ram (zero on the numeric keypad) and see if you like what you've done...

  12 economy

  13. head back to creation and happy editing.

  

  ... 14 after effects CC tutorials | Learn how to use after effects CC

  15: learn After Effects, get help and support. Adobe After Affects CC

  16. after effects basic training

• Optimum settings for the video shooting HD?

  I just bought a Panasonic AG-AC160a camcorder with the update of the firmware to the 1080 p/59.97 format with MPEG-4 AVC/h.264 compression. Since it is an upgrade of my DV tape camcorder, I am confused and do not know what is the best video format to save in. I'm shooting youth hockey games and want to produce the best HD picture I can and with as few steps as possible in PP CS5. I shoot about 45 minutes of content and I want to keep everything on a support. Thanks for the tips on the best parameters of format.

  Wilderness08 wrote:

  Thank you. When I shoot my son games of hockey I interrupt the camcorder whenever the action stops. When I got home, I noticed that a new clip is formed at each break of the shoot (I am used to capture my footage of the entire tape - even with several starts and stops - in a clip directly from my old camcorder). Is there an easier way to get these several clips in my Panel of editing without having to physically drag each from the project Panel?

  Also, what is the best way to copy/transfer files directly from the SDXC card to my computer for the files reside on the computer before their import and editing in PP?

  Welcome to the wonderful world of HD. I used the 160 before and it's a nice camera. I've been shooting with a HMC150 since 3 years now and I think that squeeze us every bit of juice out of it. A good forum for users of Panasonic's DVXUser.com go there and find the 160 has category and they'll be really helpful with questions from the camera.

  When it comes to HD footage on these cards, finally you will really like each time you stop the camera makes a new clip. That way if you've shot a lot of clips, you can choose which ones to import or transcode (to a different format if you wish) and saves disk space if you are transcoding your clips to another format (which can sometimes be easier on your system that modifying these files native AVCHD... which depends on your computer and how powerful he is). First, you'll want to copy the content of the WHOLE of the SDHC/SDXC card on your drive scratch (scratch disk simply means a separate hard drive where all of your images are stored. Do not change out of the card reader... copy EVERYTHING on your disk and use it. Again, you must copy the folder FULL of the small video files map structure. Then, you can use first media browser to import the clips you want. Just SHIFT-SELECT all the clips you want and right-click and import clips. If you want to drag multiple clips to your calendar, go ahead and shift + select all the clips you want and drag and drop on the timeline and they drop everything on in order. Photographing Hockey so I think we should turn on your shutter of your camera.  These cameras have sometimes "shutter stop" by default... If I remember correctly. It is easy to adjust. There is a shutter button at the top of the Panel where the farm of LCD and you'll want to have a shutter speed of at least double your pace. Normally double is acceptable. So if you're shooting at 60 fps, then press the shutter button and adjust to 1/120. When he says "Shutter" at 60 fps, which means that it is 1/60. It sounds good in my opinion, but for sports fast, you want not only blurred so I would make the shutter. If you shoot at 30 fps, and then set the shutter at least 1/60. Go too fast a shutter speed may begin to create a hyper-reel look similar to the opening Beach scene in Saving Private Ryan, that may not be what you want, that's why I say go double your pace to start.

  In addition, if you are on tripod, you can deactivate the OIS (these images) If you have problems with this movement at all. We keep the OIS on most of the time, but every once in a while on a tripod, that must be off because when you do a lot of Pan (which will be the case, I guess in Hockey), then you might see these weird little shifts in the image with these cameras as catches up with the OIS. If your final product goes on the web then I suggest 720 p 60 or 1080 p 60 because computer screens are progressive. If you go right on a DVD, then you probably won't notice a huge difference with 1080 vs 720 on these cameras. It is in any case my experience. If you go to the Bluray, then maybe try 1080. The forum I mentioned above will help you with those camera of choice.

  If you notice your computer bogged down editing these native AVCHD files, first put windows first of ' 1/2 resolution' instead of 'full '. Or you can transcode in a different format (for example. If you are on a mac, transcode to ProRes 422). Again, as I said before, it depends on the strength of your computer. Good luck!