T40 fan failure?

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• Envy 17: Keyboard Flex, the keys not working not properly, a fan failure

  I bought my computer laptop last January 2014 to JB HiFi, I already noticed that the keyboard flexes, but they told me that it is normal and the keys work well anyway.

  Move to the last month, I noticed that the bottom surface of my laptop keeps splitting open whenever I have fold to the top of my screen to turn it on. If it can be repaired by pressing gently to close again, it seems to have caused the laptop to ask a fan failure notice every time that I turn it on, asking me to press the Enter key to continue or wait 15 seconds so it will turn off.

  I searched on youtube on how to solve this problem and I discovered that blowing fan can solve this problem quickly. I tried several times the breath of the fan before turning on the laptop but it does not always work for me. Fan failure screen always displays at startup. I could not work long hours because I noticed that my laptop has been overheating a lot, probably because of the failure of the fan. I had to turn off for a few minutes let cool and start to work again, thus breaking any momentum of work I.

  Then, five days ago I realized that Fan failure screen is not displayed, but things just got worse. Left keys do not work correctly more for example. If I press 'e', it will enter "qe", "2" will enter the '13' and so on. Now this made me suspect that the space in which the keyboard flexes a lot and the fan failure overheating left hand side of the laptop were the cause of the keys with a malfunction, maybe condensation or so.

  Please help me out here, I use my laptop for my studies and I can't afford to buy a new.

  Kind regards

  Hi K N R K,.

  I tried your method three times, but the keys are still faulty. This is the current behavior I get:

  F5 - turn on the backlight with ' + '.
  F7 – lowers the volume with ' - '.
  F8 - increases volume with ' / '.
  2. does not show '2', but active random dialog boxes (depends on the active window)
  NumLock - types "5 [---].
  w active entry
  Shift + w - paste from Clipboard
  Enter - 'L';
  4 entries "14".
  5 entries "25".
  6 - entries '+ 6'
  -entries + '+ 6'
  x - entries 'x 25 '.
  1 entries "14".
  2 entries "25".
  3 entries '3 '.
  CTRL + v - entered "s".
  FN - inputs + 6
  SPACEBAR - entered '25 4. / »
  Up - entries '.on '.
  -Scrolling and entries "14".
  0 - entered "0" and enter
  . -entries '.» 3. "

  If ever the keyboard will work properly again, you have any recommendation with the intrados cleavage whenever I have bend toward the top of the screen to turn on the laptop.

  Kind regards

• How can I replace the graphics card Nvidia FX1500M in my Compac HP nw9440 (faulty after a fan failure)

  How to replace the graphics card Nvidia FX1500M in my Compac HP nw9440 (faulty after a fan failure). Works well with VGA HP

  chart but when FX1500M applied, it hangs at the blue screen.  Suspect that the graphics card from Nvidia have suffered under excessive heat due

  to a fan failure.

  Hello

  Should be in the book above. It shows you all.

  Good luck.

• Compaq SR1901WM system fan failure

  I have a Compaq SR1901WM, running Windows XP, SP3, and I had to replace the motherboard. I replaced it with the exact same model, and it works very well. The only problem is, when I first put it, I get a warning that says: attention! The system fan failure! The PC to avoid damaging service please! I checked and the CPU fan is running, and there was no other fan in this case. Maybe I need to get a box for her cooling fan? I replaced the motherboard with the exact same model that was already in it. Any help would be really appreciated, thanks a lot.

  I fixed it, bought a case fan, installed, connected to the decision-making system fan and no more warnings. Thanks for your help, guys, I really appreciate it a lot.

• The ONS 15454 fan failure

  Hello! We get fan failure errors to appear on one of my 15454 s, and I wonder if testing of fan is hot? I couldn't find any documentation that says yes or no, and I need to schedule downtime as soon as POSSIBLE if it is not. Thank you!

  The fan tray is hot.

  The troubleshooting guide is the procedure to replace the fan tray.

  http://www.Cisco.com/c/en/us/TD/docs/optical/15000r9_1/15454/SONET/Troub...

• Noise of Dell Studio XPS 9100 CPU fan failure CPU fan

  My Dell Studio XPS 9100 did a loud intermittent noise for a few months and then last week I got a CPU fan fault message while booting. I blew all the dust from the fan and I always get the CPU fan failure message. I finally got the system starts by placing a small fan blowing air into the funnel will CPU/processor fan.

  Alas, my warranty expired 2 weeks ago. I'm kicking myself contacting technical support a few months ago, when the problem started.

  I need to replace the fan. What parts need me, and where can I get them?

  Thanks much for the reply.

  Thank you. After being tossed a little I transferred to the sales and ordered a new CPU fan for a cost total which includes shipping and taxes of $42.25. Too bad it wasn't 2 weeks ago, then she would have been free.

  The seller said that I would not need thermal paste. Is this correct?

  Best regards

  Them

• CPU fan failure: Dell inspects the expedient to the customer before computers the they?

  After waiting 11 days which includes I believe a week in the production of my Tower, 17/11/2015 I finally received my new Inspiron Desktop Edition Gamer (Intel). I turned on the computer and guess what I saw on the screen "CPU Fan Failure".  So now, I have to return the tower to a Dell for a tech to fix the problem with the fan.

  Here's my question. Fact or not Dell inspect their product before they will deliver to their customers? Well, Dell has not delivered the product if a "CPU Fan Failure" had existed before shipment.

  Unfortunately things can occur in vessels too...

  Before send back you, open the case and check if the cable is correctly connected to the motherboard. The cable may have jumped out of the motherboard.

  Just unplug it and plug it back to the motherboard. If it's totally off the Board, you can go to the Support page for this exact model and look for the link at the top of this page for the manual. Most service manuals show a diagram of components/connectors on motherboard and CPU fan connector must be checked.

  If everything's fine, which solves the problem, so you won't have to send again.

• (Redirected) The base Aurora r4 system fan failure

  Hi I am having problems with my r4 aurora. the fan failure system from time to time at boot. Alienware thermal control always indicates that the system is at 0%, but the fans work physically. I'll try to post a screenshot of him when I got home. His is my r4 Mithraeum my 1st died after 4 months of owning my r4 is now the replacement and my warranty expired in March last someone can help me out thanks in advance.

  Note: I barely use my work schedule loaded r4

  Better in this position in the Alienware owners Club Forum, here:

  http://en.community.Dell.com/Owners-Club/Alienware/default.aspx

  Bev.

• Satellite A200 - battery and a fan failure

  My Satellite A200 is a little more than a year and has not stopped the charge battery.

  While watching over portable saw fan does not no more, although no effect on performance when it is connected to the House.

  Two probs are fan cannot be hardware failure?

  And is it connected to the failure of batt?

  For me, it is not easy to say that the two issues are related somehow. You can check the functionality of fan if the laptop works on AC power only. Remove the battery and check it out.

  Also try changing the profile of power and method to see if it has any influence on the cooling fan feature.
  What about the battery? If the battery has stopped loading it may be due to the battery itself or perhaps electronic power supply on the motherboard, but if you want to have an exact answer to this the laptop must be controlled by authorized service provider?

  The warranty is still valid?

• Processor or fan failure

  Let me explain my situation.

  I have a HP Pavilion G7-2002SD with the liquid.

  I switched the memory and the motherboard with a new brand.

  Not the laptop does not start and the caps lock is flashing in the meantime.

  This looks like a failure of the CPU.

  But the fan does not work also. Should he run in this situation of boot sequence?

  I expect he'd go at full speed.

  Or a faulty fan banned the operation of the CPU?

  I other words: should I replace the fan or the CPU?

  If it was just the system fan POST to a black screen with a fan error. You get it even if you plug a dead fan. It could be the CPU, which is generally not likely, but you replaced the motherboard, so it must almost be the CPU.

• T40 fan error

  I have a T40 Type 2373 and when I turn it on, it reads Fan Error and turns off after a few seconds. I guess I have to buy a new fan, but I don't know which fan to buy. A replacement parts site says that he wears a LONG FAN and FAN SHORT for the T40. Is there a difference between the two? Which should I buy?

  Welcome to the forum!

  Either will work in a T40, but I'd go with long fan, because it offers the best cooling. Your 'stock' fan is a fan of short.

  I hope this helps.

• After a fan failure, Windows is unable to turn off the fan?

  My Dell laptop is more than a year and out of warranty, so I was pretty shocked when my brother took an air can to the exhaust port and overspun fan and caused his failure. I bought a fan of alternative qualified from Dell and installed with Arctic Silver costs. However, even with the new fan, he would never turn up. I was looking at the temperatures to pull it up and and eventually shut down the system without even a glance of the fan. I even pulled the fan back out and double checked to make sure that the fan would turn with the applied force (I am an EE, food is very fine-adjustable). He does.

  I can control the fan with a 3rd party, i8kfan program. Problem is, the driver is not signed digitally, so it occasionally fails or it shuts down randomly.

  So, how does this apply to Windows? Well, as Dell technical support doesn't help if you are no longer under warranty, they don't tell me this - here are the fan control strictly controlled windows, strictly the BIOS or a combination of both? I was wondering if the problem threw a flag in Windows or the BIOS can't disable or something. I see nothing on the fans in my BIOS (another failure on part Dells - shitty BIOS), so I hope there is something small, buried in the windows that might help.

  I have no problem using the 3rd party controls. In most cases, this works very well. But there are moments when, particularly under heavy load, the program gets a lower priority, and fan just stops. In addition, the signed drivers beyond boring thing. As a little advanced Windows user, I'd love it if it could be disabled permanently instead of having to switch off whenever I start.

  My college got hooked me with a copy of 7, but I was saving it for my office that I'm building. I think that if this is a Windows problem, I'll just reformat this thing at 7 until I get my desktop built, and if all goes well, that will fix problems with fan. Also, I think I still have the Vista disc to this thing also, that's an option. If reinstalling Windows can solve this problem, I will def do this. I don't want to waste time to reformat if it does not solve the problem.

  Thanks for the comments!

  Hi Matt k,

  Fear you must contact Dell technical support as seems to be a hardware problem.

  Dell support link
  http://support.Dell.com/support/topics/global.aspx/support/DellCare/contact_us

  Thanks and greetings

  Ajay K

  Microsoft Answers Support Engineer

  Visit our Microsoft answers feedback Forum and let us know what you think.

• The system fan failure... Press F2 on the old card fan replacement mother M2N68 - LA

  Hello. I spent a while looking for a cure for this but no luck.

  I replaced the rear fan (and the whole case) on my HP p6110uk PC and now get «a failure of the fan system...» Press F2 etc. at the start of the system." Perhaps one of the three fan pins on the motherboard does not receive the right RPM.

  The fan works OK. I tried 2 new case fans and they work but give the same error on initialize toward the top. The original fan is detected OK and the error disappears when placed back attached to the same port on the motherboard fan system. There is no option of fan in the bios settings.

  I have tried both by resetting the CMOS jumper on the motherboard and remove the battery to see if it will remedy the error, but again, no luck.

  I was wondering about possibly updated the BIOS, but the official update of HP will not work. It's I guess because I am running official windows 7 upgrade (from Vista). Win7 x 64 does not appear for the provided.

  The site of Asus also has a bios driver for this kind of advice, but I'm not clear on the version required.

  Details:

  M2N68 - THE Mobo 5.00 rev

  (Pegatron) Revision of BIOS 5.38

  Optionally you can advise me, that error is quite annoying whenever I start.

  Booji,

  Thanks for confirming my suspicions.  As you have changed the case, you may have other options. What case?

  (1) re thinking - join old SYSFan (2) create a new exhaust (TOP).

• CPU2 T5500 fan failure

  Hi, I hope someone can give me some advice.

  I upgraded a T5500 with dual CPU card.  The system indicates a failure of the CPU2 fan however both fans are running (at full speed!)

  Then, I took the same double CPU card with the same CPU and RAM and put it in an another T5500.  In this other machine, it works correctly and the fans run quietly and it doesn't give any errors.

  The machine with the error has been run the latest BIOS.  I tried without downgrading the BIOS A04 as the system that works correctly.  I also tried re-allocation of places the dual cpu Board and the removal and replacement of the battery from the motherboard, but nothing has worked.

  Any advice would be much appreciated.  Thank you!

  Hi Ronjatter,

  Try resetting the CMOS. The procedure is in your service manual.

• X 220 a fan failure

  I've had my X 220 for about a year now. As a first step, I have problems with the fan, without revving up/down as some describe it, and it was pretty quiet.

  After about 9 months of use, the fan starts to be quite noisy. As I generally always have a fan, I like much because only the room fan mastered the laptop fan.

  Then, about 10 months ago, a day that CoreTemp displays a message that my CPU temp is critical, I just watch a movie with no background in course stuff. I checked TPFanControl and the fan was running. Not he also met smart modes or TPFanControl manuals.

  I turned off the laptop, removed the keyboard and it works again. The fan would spin a few laps at very low speed, then stops. I welcomed the system starts like that and tried to start the fan with manual mode of TPFanControl. When I changed the fan speed 0 to any other speed, I could see the fan blades to move a bit (maybe 1 mm) and then stops again.

  The laptop is guaranteed, but I bought it in the United States, and I now live in Thailand. Also, it's my main work computer and I didn't want any unnecessary downtime, so I decided to fix it myself.

  I wrote wrong, those not interested in the history of disassembly, just skip the next paragraph.

  Well, fortunately I decided not to sell my old Z61m, I started to see the Manual X 220 of hardware Maintenance: http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/x220_x220i_hmm_0a60739_06.pdf

  Using an old laptop, which last year was not slow, after be accustomed to the new, was really slow. Part of the reason may be that I recently installed Windows 7 above (it has 4 GB of RAM in this document, including the chipset can only use 3 GB). Furthermore, once I had my Z61m fan become really noisy, too (but never completely fail), I did remove, clean and lubricate the fan - and getting the fan was much easier than on X 220.

  The X 220 to get to the bottom of the fan, remove the motherboard, heat sink is screwed to the motherboard from its underside. Which was not difficult for me, but I could see easily ruin a small component. To remove the motherboard, I had to remove the HARD drive, bluetooth, speakers, WiFi module module, mSATA SSD, disconnect a few connectors flat-ribbon, unclip a few regular connectors, release the antenna cables wifi, video cable out of their grooves in the bezel, remove the bezel. And then the motherboad wouldn't even come off - the two nuts holding the VGA connector must be removed. And when I moved to Thailand, I did not bring my hexagonal socket 5mm with me. So I had to roll i live in a small town, try to find it. Tool shops, hardware stores, computer stores had not! Well, a workshop was a huge kit of tools 1/4 "DR, I wasn't going to spend so much money just to get a 5mm socket. In the end I could find a set of Sockets 1/4 "DR of poor quality in a Tesco supermarket, for $2. But what do you know? Cheap plugs have thick walls, so the wall thickness does not allow that it fits around the nut (case of the laptop gets in the way). So bad, I don't have a ride... Well, here's the drill to hold the socket and the angle grinder. I was finally able to unscrew the nuts and remove the motherboard.

  To exit the audio connector of the hole is the case, I have a lot for the motherboard, I know it's in fiberglass and strong, but it feels not quite scary (the narrowest part of the motherboard is perhaps only an inch wide).

  I inclined then the motherboard up disconnected the power cable (it's a bit complicated, but I think it's the most effective way - some say remove the LCD to do this! is totally useless), out the motherboard and unscrewed the whole radiator/fan.

  The fan would turn by hand or blowing into it, but wouldn't keep rotating as soon as I stop to breathe. Fortunately detachable blades (just catch them and shoot), I cleaned and the Interior with a methyl alcohol, let dry, then put some oil teflon TriFlow in there and put the blades on. I then put it back together and it worked fine. The Assembly, as usual, is the reverse order of disassembly. The fan works and is rather quiet again (I would say about the same it was new).

  The fan's bearing sleeve. I think that this is not a good practice to put the sleeve bearing fans in laptops. When a fan bearing fails, it runs only at reduced speed, with lots of noise and vibration. Which gives a lot of time to warn that it must be replaced. Sleeve bearing fan may just stop running completely, do not make noise to indicate failure. He is very happy that the CPU (and some other hardware) have automatic overheating protection (thermal). I guess that Lenovo has just had some problem temporary sourcing the necessary amount of ball bearing fans when they produced X 220, so they just put in an alternative they could find. I don't think they did this just to earn $1 per laptop. In any case, my advice for X 220 owners is, if your fan has become noisier as before, open it and clean/oil, better now than later. I would advise only this work to those who have the right hands in the right place, not their ass (it's a saying we have in Russia). There is nothing really difficult subject of this work (first time will take 2-3 hours, with experience, you can do all the work in less than 1 hour), but be careful. There are a lot of small parts that can be removed or damaged by static electricity. There are several screws of different sizes that can be mixed up (my advice is to use a small container with multiple compartments and put the screws in different compartments, as well as a piece of paper saying where will this group of screws. Be very careful unplug connectors, especially the type of flat ribbon. No metal or sharp tools must be used for this task! Use only the nails or something plastic. Also be careful to align the flat ribbon cables when connecting (locking) them. It is good to take pictures of the entire process, especially things like the path of the cables. You'll thank yourself for it when he put it back together. The hardware maintenance manual is also very useful (perhaps not so easy to find the right info, however, have to read carefully). Print or use another computer or a mobile device to access it when you do the work. As mentioned, you will need a thin-wall of 5mm plug (any good quality 1/4 "DR taken will be thin wall, while unpleasant things at low cost will rise to thick wall) to unscrew the VGA connector. The nuts are not watertight at the factory (at least mine were not), then you might be able to use another tool, but I think that even the smallest beaks clip does not there, there is really too little room between the nuts and the case. Tweezers robust with round ends (or cut the ends) could do the job, but I'm a believer in using a suitable tool for a job, at least when it comes to a computer at $1000 (it's very Russian to me, where a common tool for auto repair is often a hammer and a block of wood; an adage) (: If you fail - use a big hammer). Obviously, you also need a small size electronic screwdriver.

  One thing I had a problem with: the radiator contacts CPU and chipset (which is common in laptops), there were the thermal paste on the processor and a thermal pad on the chipset (I would say a thickness 0.5 mm). Unfortunately I tore the buffer when removing the heat sink. If you pay attention, usually, you can reuse the pad. The cushion is here for the reason that the processor and the chipset of surfaces are not on the same plane, so if mounted with just a very thin layer of thermal paste (as you should for optimal conduction of heat), the chipset would not touch the radiator and overheats. Because I didn't have a thermal buffer of spare on-site, I used a thick layer of thermal paste (I used Arctic Silver 5, which is quite thick consistency and very probably not take off here) on the chipset. I also ordered the thermal pads on eBay, whether just in case.

  I have not noticed any significant decrease in temperatures with new thermal paste, even after 200 hours of engine the AS5 needs for optimal performance. It could be a few degrees colder, but not a lot.

  I'm sorry that I deleted the photos I took during the disassembly.

  I knew the .5mm layer on the chipset, but if you're talking about running hot, the CPU die is where the heat is coming from. Still a very thin layer you put on you will provide coverage worse than a new fan. I looked at many pictures of the results of different application techniques where the radiator was sitting on a glass-ceramic surface, so you could see how the dough spread in use. Nothing has been almost as good as the peas on a nine fan motif.