T500 best upgrade choice

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• Best upgrade

  I bought a Canon EOS Rebel XTi camera in a package deal a few years back that came with an EFS 18-55mm and EF 75-300 zoom. It was a good setup for me, but what would be the best thing that I could buy to make it better? Something or a combination of things under a cople of hundred dollars. I am a novice.

  "Hundreds of dollars" will not go very far, I fear.

  1 LENS.

  The first thing I would suggest that you consider, especially for landscape photography, is a lens wide angle... But most cost $500 or more. Among these, the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM is one of the best... but it's also more than you say you want to spend.

  A new and lower price alternative is the new EF-S 10-18mm IS STM Canon has just announced. I haven't used (few people have) because it is not in stock, any where, again... and can be a little difficult to find a little time. This lens seems to be reasonably compact (67 mm filter uses) and will be sold for about $300. Also, the sun visor sold separately (EW - 73) is not quite yet available, but seems to be priced below $ 30. Not sure that I need IS on a lens with short focal lengths... but, Hey, it never hurts to have! STM focus drive must be good, too. Now, none of us have had the chance to use this lens, but taking the cannon in the word with what they say about this, must be very nice.

  Other things that may be in your budget "hundreds of dollars"...

  2 TRIPOD

  If you do not already have one, I would say a good tripod.  But, be careful. Don't go too cheap, too compact nor too light with this, or you will not find the use or by replacing enough fast. One who seems a very good deal for me is the Adorama Flashpoint F1228 kit for about $220 including delivery. It is a clone of tripod Gitzo 'Series 2' journalist, with a fairly standard carbon fiber, but decent looking ball head with quick release. (I use several real Gitzo, which are excellent, but much more expensive, but I also use a lot of heavier cameras and lenses that you).

  I have also heard good things about Dolica tripods, but have no real experience with them. They offer several models of carbon fiber, which is what I would recommend. There are a few other quite affordable brands, but also some that are much more expensive. Just be careful, check out them in person if possible, and try to avoid too light, fragile, and poorly made.

  Purchased on the right, a tripod can be a single purchase. A carbon fiber tripod is a little more expensive, but it is lighter than the tripod in aluminium of the same capacity. In addition, carbon fiber absorbs vibrations small, where the 'rings' metal and reverberates. In addition, the CF is a little nicer to handle hot and cold weather.

  A tripod is a number of things for you and a lot of landscape photographers wouldn't think of shooting without having a. Of course, a tripod stabilizes your shot and allows you to make longer than computer possible exposures of pocket. Another thing that makes tripod is to force you to slow down and examine more carefully the are you will take. This usually results in much nicer pictures. Someone once said do arrows multiple panoramas and a tripod will help well do, too.

  3 LENS HOODS

  If you don't already have them, download the lens hood for your lenses. I believe that the 18-55mm uses a hood EW - 63C and 75-300 uses a hood AND-60. Just get into the habit of using lens hoods. They protect your lenses from the oblique light and physical shocks. I see people shot without condoms all the time... and that makes no sense at all to me. A lens hood is a simple, fast & easy to use and inexpensive accessory that can only help your images. I rarely shoot without having a.

  4 FILTERS

  And, if you don't already have some, a filter or two can be really useful. First of all, I would recommend a circular polarizer of quality. I think that your 18-55mm lens uses 58 mm filters (double check that) and I would say one to fit this lens first, since it is probably the lens you will use for landscape photography. A C - Pol filter will deepen the blue of the sky and make the white clouds "pop." It also intensifies colors by reflections of the cup of the foliage and other surfaces. You can use this control reflections on water and other surfaces, too. It is one of the more widely useful filters, as well as one of the most impossible to reproduce with digital software. I recommend B + W MRC XS - Pro and Kaesemann. Hoya HD, HD2, HMC a SHMC. and Marumi DHG. Among others. You do not want a C - POL on your lens all that time... he cuts one or two stops of light. But you will find it useful several times, once you learn to use it.

  Another type of filter that is popular is a neutral density or ND. These animals are generally gray, come in variable strength and are used to reduce the one of light reaching the sensor, so speeds that shutter slower and more large openings can be used on purpose. You've probably seen these picturesque shots with water mobile search creamy... If a stream, waterfall or ocean suft. Most of these types of shots require a kind of ND filter, when shooting with a digital camera. This is because most of the digital cameras am below ISO 100 or even 200. Some go to ISO 50. This limits the slow shutter speed can be used when shooting in daylight. If you receive this type of filter, you'll want to probably a few different strong points... they come in one, two, three, 5, 8, 10 and even more stop strengths. There is 'variable' (turn to change resistance, similar to a C - Pol), but these tend to give unequal effects and sometimes cause unwanted color shades. Note: ND filters are also often needed for videography, where the limits of frame rates limit the opening which can be used in available light.

  Another type of filter which is historically very popular among landscape photographers is the Neutral Density or ND Grad degree. These are half clear, half gray in different dosages and are used to balance a too bright sky with a foreground of an image, for example. With this type of filter, do not buy the round, screw type. You must be able to position the line of gradation differently for each image, so need to use the rectangular type of the filter, which fits into a special bracket that mounts to the front of the lens, allowing you to rotate and slide the filter if necessary.

  I have a nice set of graduates ND dating of when I shot with the film, but frankly I hardly use them more. Shooting digital, I can now do a better job with post-processing... techniques combining several exhibitions or multi-processing a single RAW file and then recombine the part "correctly exposed" of each. It's much more accurate, precise and controllable was always possible with filters.

  5. THE SOFTWARE

  But this brings us to another thing... If not already done, learn RAW and post-process your images. Canon delivered provided with your camera software is very good, but you might want to look at an all-in-one package with some features, such as Adobe Elements. If so, get a book or two on this issue, too... to help you get up to speed using it quickly and more easily. RAW image files are like a digital negative, of sorts. That's all what the camera captured at the time of exposure, but almost always need little more work so that it becomes an image can be used (JPEG, TIFF, PNG or other). However, a shot in-camera JPEG throws a lot of data and is much less "adjustable" afterwards... then you must get your exposure settings, white balance, etc. right the first time... There are fewer opportunities to change or correct later.

  6 CALIBRATION

  You can also consider calibration of your computer. There are various devices and software for this purpose, but the general idea is that most computer monitors do not give very loyal and almost all colors are much, much too bright. This makes it difficult to work accurately with your images and can lead you to a blumenthals trying to make prints. The secret is the calibration. This doesn't have to be outrageously expensive... and can pay for itself if you do a lot of prints, saving paper and ink or pulled apart if you send your print.

  7. BOOKS & CLASSES

  In general, the book of $18 "Understanding Exposure" by Brian Peterson may be the best money you ever spend on your photography. I highly recommend, regardless of your level of experience, but especially for novices. Buy it. Read. Investigate it. Learn it. Your photography will be much better and you'll get the most out of your equipment.

  There are other good books that you can watch. Some are specific to your camera in particular, guides that will help you make the most out it. Others are specific to a type of material or technical photography. Look for things that most of you are interested in.

  Or, you could take a few classes or seminars... or get involved in a photography club... or sign up for a visit in pictures or safari. This can be a great way to learn and develop your skills and too. May be as good an investment as the train would be.

  I suggest also that put you in place a plan, future gear updated level or additions to work when the budget allows. For example, maybe you don't shoot macro now, but I would like to try your hand at it in the future. It could be any number of things... Justg begin to search for and develop a list of things you want to try or items you want to improve. It may be a simple upgrade. For example, if yours is the kit lens 18-55mm that was originally supplied with the XTi, ago most recent and IS a version improved the EF-S 18 - 55 EF-S 18-55 IS STM. Update "Stepper Motor" of the latter is faster, quieter and more precise. An upgrade even more high-end and, of course, the most expensive would be the lens EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS USM.

  Don't know how use you it, but there are also a number of improvements since the 75- 300 mm you have. The most affordable is the EF-S 55-250mm, now also with the STM focus drive. There are also several 70- 300 L IS USM is the most award-winning build and image quality. One of the EF 70-200mm lenses would be very nice upgrades, too... These are real 'horse' lenses that you find in bags for cameras in most of the pro shooters. The IS versions of them are stabilized, which may be important for telephoto lenses. The f4 versions are more compact and lighter weight, which might be nice for travel.

  You do not have the funds to one of them now, but someday you might. And if you have a capital plan that you want to add or upgrade in the future, you can prioritize according to your needs and usage and to start working with the eventual upgrade. No plan is set in stone, either. You can always change, if your needs or modification of the options available.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

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  Code-named Prescott
  Specification Intel (r) Pentium (r) 4 CPU 3.00 GHz
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  Cache (per processor) L2 1024 kilobytes, size 8-way line set associative, 64 bytes

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  Latency CASE clocks # (tCL) 4.0
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  RAS # Precharge (tRP) 4 clocks
  Cycle Time (tRAS) 12 clocks

  Motherboard for Dell Inc. seller.
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  Date of the BIOS 04/01/2006
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  Module 3 DDR2, PC2-5300 (333 MHz), 1024 MB, Nanya Technology
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  Heath has

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  Budimu wrote:
  ... what would be the best upgrade for me? I hope for 8 core...

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