the A6000 kit lens and lens hoods

Similar Questions

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Need advice on the protection filter and lens hood

  I'm looking into buying a UV filter to protect my 18-135mm IS USM lens. Is the B + W 67mm UV Haze MRC 010 M filter a good filter to use if I want to keep the filter on all the time? A standard lens cap would be in addition to that?

  The lens hood Canon EW - 73 is a good visor to use on top of the 18-135 mm Canon lens

  shorty1 wrote:

  I'm looking into buying a UV filter to protect my 18-135mm IS USM lens. Is the B + W 67mm UV Haze MRC 010 M filter a good filter to use if I want to keep the filter on all the time? A standard lens cap would be in addition to that?

  The lens hood Canon EW - 73 is a good visor to use on top of the 18-135 mm Canon lens

  B + W filters are excellent but expensive.

  More in this forum would probably have a filter of protection needs, particularly if you use a lens hood. I think I fall into this category, although I tried once to nibble while covering an event that was a table buffet and stuck the tip of my goal in a dish of cream sure dip.

  There is no such thing as a cap gun good or bad for one of their lenses, just a good or bad. Always use the one they recommend, or it may interfere with the field of vision. Lens hoods are generally very tolerances in this regard. If you are using a 3 rd-party hood, be sure that it is an exact replacement for the condom correct Canon.

• What should I buy objective 17-40 or the 24-105 Lens Kit?

  Hello again,

  And after the great success of the support team here and advise.

  I'll buy the Canon 6 d this weekend...

  I thought based on my Style (architecture, landscapes, night photography) photography (attached sample of my work)

  to buy the only 6 d body + canon 17-40 F4 as affordable for wide angle type, but i got to know that this cam lens without image stabilizer, which really confused me and return to think again buy the camera with its objective of kit (24-105) as it comes with stabilizer more range and image ,

  So the question, is image stablizer is a must? who advises you to go with?

  Thanks in advance for anything that can advise you in this decision.

  Concerning

  

  Janabi79 wrote:

  Dear Scotty,

  the image that I took was in camera (canon 7 d) cropped sensor Using Sigma 10-20 with the settings below:

• Can the 16-50mm lens on the A6000 will be expanded manually?

  I am considering buying the Sony A6000.  In order to extend the life of the battery, May 16-50 mm kit lens will be manually expanded?  Thank you!

  While you manually activate the zoom ring, the zoom operation is electronic. You can use the zoom ring or lever on the trigger, both work electronically.

• I am currently deciding between 100-400 f 4, 5-5, 6, 400mm f 5.6 premium and the 300mm f4 lens.

  Currently I have a 70-200l f4 lens and want to buy an extra lens which would give me more range. I am considering the three I mentioned above, but am favoring the 300mm f4 Prime right now. I'd appreciate any feedback anyone can offer about these lenses or other recommendations.

  Thank you!

  Thanks for the tips, I ended up buying the 70-300L lens. I agree with you on the issue of only being able to afford both of these lenses. I was really happy with my decision to buy this one.

  Thanks, Ron

• Sony lens hoods

  The kit lens Sony 16-50mm is supplied without a lens hood and the 55-210mm does. Is there a reason? Is it more important to use one with the 55-210mm?

  Lens hoods are to avoid flare (the light from a source off-angle bouncing around inside the lens barrel). Using a lens hood is always a good idea, but the SELP1650 retracts to form a compact set when the power is turned off (or asleep). With an attached lens hood may interfere with the ability of the lens to retract, no mention can still be as compact as it may be otherwise.

  Unfortunately, the SELP1650 suffers from flaring during and could benefit from the use of a visor, but also unfortunately, it suffers from vignetting at the wide end and a visor would almost certainly what's worse.

• lens hood for sony alpha 58 18-55 mm lens

  Hi friends,

  Can anyone let me know where can I get a hood for my 18-55 mm kit lens for my sony alpha 58 DSLT in India. Please provide the links if you have a.

  Thanks in advance,

  Riou

  The ALC-SH108 is the sun visor that is consistent with the SAL-1855 lens. You can access this link to locate the local Sony stores in your area, or you can contact Sony India directly for more information.

  If this post answered your question, please mark "accept as a Solution.

• The "green dot" lens flare in the iPhone 7 / iPhone 7 more

  I wrote on 'green point' lens flare issues I have with my iPhone 6 Plus. See Green dots in the iPhone 6 more photos - it's something that can be fixed? photos, for example.

  I was hoping that this problem has been resolved with the new iPhones, two years later. But as I see in this review of the iPhone 7 - http://www.techconnect.com/article/3122614/iphone-ipad/iphone-7-review.html?utm _ source = Sailthru & utm_medium = email & utm_cam... - if you look at the car first two photos, the author shows 'green point' stray light is present in the iPhone and iPhone 6s 7 photos.

  So I'm disappointed to see that this problem has not disappeared.

  Does anyone know if this is also the same with the iPhone 7 Plus, which has two glasses?

  Just wondering if any iPhone 7 more users have been able to test this.

  Before the upgrade, I would like to know if the "green point" lens flare problem that exists with the iPhone 6, iPhone 6 Plus, iPhone 6s, 6s iPhone more and apparently also with the iPhone 7 also happens with the iPhone 7 more.

  It has a system of different lenses, so I'm curious to know if this problem persists or not.

• It is the download for the LR5 Mac lens profiles

  Used LR5 on a PC since release, this version has my Nikon/camera lens listed. Just installed a new hard copy on a new Mac, this version does not have my loaded profile. Searched the Adobe web site and although in help, my lens is displayed in the list I can't find the download for a Mac. someone help.

  You shoot JPEG or Raw? Several profiles of lenses exist only in the first.  I wonder if it shows only missing because you are looking for with the bad image file type selected.

• Not available in the menu correction lens (Tamron 18-270) lens

  Hi all

  I have a couple of drinks to choose from the menu of lens correction. According to a list on the website of Adobe, my lens (Tamron 18-270) should be included, but it is not.

  I use Lightroom 5 on a Win PC and a camera Sony Alpha 58. Photos taken in RAW format.

  Any idea where I can find or activate the lens?

  Could it be, that the Sony camera does not write the lens information in the EXIF file so that Lightroom does not know what lens I used? But, if so, why can I choose several different companies (Canon,...), but not that of Tamron?

  Best regards

  Mick

  Too bad, now it works. Maybe there was an update to Lightroom, or I did something wrong before. But thanks anyway

• LR5 (Mac): where are all the profiles of lens?

  I am running Lightroom 5 on my Mac.  I downloaded the lens profile Downloader and run it to get profiles of some of my lenses.  Online slot said that Adobe supports the Nikon 28-300, the 40 mm Nikon and Sigma 150-500.  When I open the Downloader, they do not appear anywhere.  Where can I find/get these profiles and install them.

  TIA,

  John

  Hi John,.

  You can create profiile lense customized by using lens profile creator , if they do not appear in lens profile Downloader.

  Download Lense creator profile on the following page:

  http://www.Adobe.com/products/Photoshop/extend.displayTab2.HTML#resources

  See the user guide PDF on "how to create profile Lense.

  http://wwwimages.Adobe.com/www.Adobe.com/content/dam/Adobe/en/products/Photoshop/PDFs/lens profile_creator_userguide.pdf

  I hope this helps.

  Please let me know if you have any further questions.

  Kind regards

  Sumit Singh

• Update 2.3.3 (all THE KITS) x10a and x10i

  Update 2.3.3 (all THE KITS) x10a and x10i

  http://www.topsony.com/Forum/local_links.php?CATID=4556

  Download FlashTool

  http://Forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=920746

  or

  http://Androxyde.github.com/Flashtool/

  an even easier alternative

  Download the app, upload it to your SD card

  Download Apk Manager

  W251bGwsMSwxLDEsImNvbS5tYWdtYW1vYmlsZS5hcHAuYXBraW5zdGFsbGVyIl0.

  Open 'Apk Manager' and here select the applications that you wan't to install

  Let me make it simpler

  Download the apk on your computer, send it by e-mail, make sure that you send it to your Gmail

  now on your phone

  go to settings-> applications-> check unknown sources

  wait for the mail, once you get the message, open it, and instead of download the attachment it will install it, voila, done

  Use one of these links to download the

  Backup & restore app

  http://Forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1193802

  or

  http://www.Elita-clan.com/downloads/backup_and_restore_v010935.APK

  http://www.Elita-clan.com/downloads/backup_and_restore_v010935.APKor
  http://www.mediafire.com/?1n07llajeaoo03y

• How can I see my subscription, or cancel? I recently bought the student kit and I can't find a confirmation email or any info on WHEN the payments will be charged on my account etc.

  How can I see my subscription, or cancel? I recently bought the student kit and I can't find a confirmation email or any info on WHEN the payments will be charged on my account etc. ?

  You have an active CC bought 7 days ago.

  Concerning

  Stéphane

• Can someone help me because I am student who has recently renewed my membership but when I got to open photoshop it is not have she asked this same software you license I pay for the student kit and I can't redownload photoshop on my mac

  Can someone help me because I am student who has recently renewed my membership but when I got to open photoshop it is not have she asked this same software you license I pay for the student kit and I can't redownload photoshop on my mac because "you run an operating system that Photoshop no longer supports. Refer to the system requirements for a full list of supported platforms "!"

  When you install the 2015 cloud creative, all or part of the CC apps show 'trial start or buy now' in the creative cloud desktop application, please first try disconnect you creative cloud and folder in: connect and disconnect activate Cloud Creative applications

  If this does not help, see this link:

  https://helpx.Adobe.com/manage-account-membership/CC-reverts-to-trial.html