Wide Gamut RGB / sRGB

What is the difference between these two? also, what are the merits using either?.

I shot a lot of samples of solid color in RAW, cropped and resized in DPP, then transferred to PS8 for color and spotting. I don't know how, but about half the images of the latter are color when uploaded to my web gallery. the sRGB shots are okay, but all range plans lack of true colors and are dull. where range came from I do not know must have clicked the wrong box or something.

Can I now convert the JPEG in the wide range in sRGB photos or I will have to start from raw files.

More than 150 odd photos are involved with names and numbers of attatched to catch points and I would rather not do it again, so any help appreciated muchfully.

I'm very new to all this and from dpp in PS and struggling to understand both made in my head.


I begin to understand why the workflow is planned...

I am trying to understand what are the photos you take for, always and the nature of your 'business', if that's what it is:

Do you tiles for people, or are you just sell them the material to their own tiles, more a craft site?

Do you take photos of as many of the "unlimited" colors you can for people to see what they look like on the slab?

Do you take photographs of the current customer arrested as examples of potential customers?

Do you take photographs of the current customer orders so that the customer can see their order and check that it's just before the production he for them?

Is paper you make reference to a print of your photo, and is supposed to match what the customer sees on the website and it is part of a printed catalog or is it one per order for the customer to check from?

I ask myself these questions as a way to understand how accurate the website Viewer expects that the color of the tile when it is installed, and if the audience of each photograph is all potential customers or just a particular customer.

Finally, this floor or wall tile or decorative tile more colorful or artistic means more than as an accent or holder or something, not covering a large area?  It is to predict what sort of people lighting would generally consider their tiles in and judge whether your photos with incandescent lighting is typical of what would be a customer or not.

--

There are two separate issues with colors dull looking which are independent of each other: the first question is to have WideGamut jpg displayed in a browser that is assuming sRGB, where all the colors are dull.  It is very obvious that you posted on.  The other problem is that the reddish colors will look dull when photographed with reddish lighting which incandescent is compared in the light of the day.  This second question would be more subtle and would affect all the pictures tile, even if they use the correct sRGB profile.

--

You ask if using a color-checker or daylight bulbs would help: to help answer this, yourself, take a picture of some tiles colored in your configuration incandescent against your white background, then take the bottom and the tiles on the outside and take another picture of them in the Sun or in a sky covered entirely away from the colorful objects or buildings, and then compare the two side-by-side to see if you notice any changes of color across the tiles.

To make the comparison more accurate, you should the white balance for the white background instead of use a WB setting appointed as the tungsten or daylight.  In DPP, you can set the WB by going the RAW tab in the editor and click on the eyedropper button and then clicking on the white background.  Doing for RAW photo incandescent and the sunny/cloudy RAW photo, then save as a JPG.  You may need to adjust the brightness or exposure) of other outside so he has the same brightness and contrast that inside, then save each as a JPG and compare the colors between each of them, before making adjustments in PSE.  If you do not see much difference between shooting incandescent and turned sunlight then a color-checker bulbs or light of day no doubt makes that much difference.  I would expect you will see differences in high heat how colors are relative to each other, when you go back between the two shots or you compare side-by-side, depending on what picture viewer program and monitor installation, but maybe don't you think that they are not significant enough to worry about.

--

A few comments on your methods to adjust the color you have described their:

You say that you hold until you photographed next to your monitor and then adjust things to post-secondary studies until the colors are good:

First of all, what is your lighting next to your computer that you can see the subject, it's the same as he was photographed, or something different, such as the window-curtain-daylight or fluorescent lamps?

Secondly, your monitor calibrated somehow uses a spectrophotometer of material, or at least attempted to set the monitor's color temperature so white things on the screen look like white things in the immediate vicinity of the monitor as illuminated by some lights that you are viewing the subject while trying to match the colors?

If the answer is no to the question monitor calibrated then you are really glad to create the colors look right to your own computer screen, which may or may not be the same that the other computer of the people watching who discovered the site.  Using a calibrated monitor, at least you know that any inaccuracies in the colors on a different monitor is due to the lack of this monitor calibration, not the sum of both your and the lack of the other calibration Viewer screen.

When the color adjustment to post-secondary studies if you see the subject in a different light that you took the photo in then it will probably be difficult to get the colors to look right.

Personally, I would use light daylight balanced for the photos, which would itself, with daylight, daylight bulbs (warm light) or diffuse / bounced flash, perhaps through a light tent.  The white balance, I got pipette to a neutral zone of photography.  I would use a monitor calibrated, and appeal to a standard profile in my RAW converter or create my own with the ColorChecker passport.  Finally, if I manually tweaking the colors by comparing the monitor for the subject is close, I'd use lighting daylight balanced during the display of the object.

Without having a better understanding of how correct the color should be for each of your photos, my approach is perhaps too much work, and what you may be ok.  You could ask the opinion of other people who have access to the original object (the colorful mosaic that was photographed) by comparing it to the photo of this tile on the website on his own monitor in a different lighting situation: incandescent, daylight, fluorescent, so let's see how well the colors stand for them or not at all.

Tags: Photoshop

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    Here is the link: http://www.microsoft.com/prophoto/downloads/colorcontrol.aspx

    This utillity adds a panel color settings that you can access through the control panel. It's main characteristics are that it allows you to assign color profiles to devices, such as your monitor or printer.

    I'm using Photoshop CS4.  If you open the color settings dialogue box and look under the section workspaces, you can choose your workspace for RGB in the drop-down list. From my research, and since I'm editing photos, I concluded that choose Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB is a good choice.

    Also on this drop-down list, there is a choice called Monitor RGB. From my research, the opinion is that you should not set that as your RGB working space. However, a tip I've met is that if you look at the Monitor RGB choice it will tell what Photoshop is grateful as color of your monitor profile. For example, it will say 'Monitor RGB - Dell 217'

    Now, after the installation of the utility of color of Windows I am now able to define the color for my monitor profile. What I put is then recognized by Photoshop if I see it on this list.

    Specifically, in my utility of color I set my monitor to use the sRGB color space. Now when I go into Photoshop and color Setings and go dialog where you set the RGB workspace, I click the menu drop down and the list will be "Monitor RGB - sRGB IEC61966 - 2.1.»

    Note: I did not choose this as my RGB color space, I will just here to check what Photoshop is to see with regard to my color space of the monitor. I put it to my RGB color space to ProPhoto RGB.

    My monitor is a monitor de LCD Samsung 172 T.  Regarding the calibration of the monitor, I don't have access to a colorimeter device. From my research, I have found that by using the calibrator of software called Adobe Gamma is not designed to calibrate or profile LCD monitors.

    What I did: I use a graphics card based on nVidia with a control panel. The Control Panel has a display optimization tool. I used.

    Once again, my question-

    In the utility of windows color, I put my monitor color profile to sRGB. Was it the right choice?

    I have set to another profile that I have available called "Samsung 172 T."  But I do not know from which it came. Not sure if it was generated using Adobe Gamma a few years back, or the manufacturer.

    When I went to that profile my screen gets darker. Note: when I turn on in the Windows color configuration utility, then go in Photoshop, I can see in the color settings dialog box it now says "Monitor RGB - Samsung 172 T.

    I know that if I had a calibrator type colorimeter I would be able to generate an accurate profile for my monitor. In this case, you would set your monitor to this profile, rather than sRGB?

    Tom,

    Unless you have a crap monitor which is incapable of contoured with precision, never set your monitor profile to an independent color space of the device as sRGB.

    Calibrate your monitor with precision, regularly and often and use the monitor resulting as your dependent monitor of the device profile.

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