XA - 25 Image stabilization

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• Camileo S10 camera does not remember the setting of the image stabilizer

  Hello reader Forum,.

  Is it normal that my Camileo S10 camera does not remember setting image stabilizer?
  I use mostly the 720px setting and stabilizing on but after that the camera is off the stabilizer is off again.

  Greetzz... Ben

  Hello

  This could be possible.
  I remember that the focus does not work if the stabilization has been activated
  So maybe it of the intent of the manufacturer that the stabilizer would be disabled again.

  Welcome them

• 18-55mm of an old XTi lens: need to upgrade for image stabilization?

  I have a lens EFS 18-55 m supplied with an old Canon Rebel XTi (from 2006?) I'm looking to upgrade to a new body, but I don't know if I have to / should upgrade the goal too.

  My main concern is this old lens has image stabilization, or if the new lenses are much better image stabilization (enough to justify an upgrade to a new lens.) Anyone know?

  Thanks in advance!

  The reason IS is valuable on this focal length is, it is so slow that anyone holding going to need all the help they can get.  They are OK for light of day but go inside and a slow lens needs help.

  I would buy the new version of the EF-S 18-55mm STM with IS.  Especially in the kit as it is a good deal.  Not only a goal faster when we focus, the optics are better, too.

• Image stabilization (still images) are no longer available on the camera 2.0?

  Can't seem to find him after the update, and other users have also reported the same. Why it was deleted?

  Or does that mean that there is no need for default, the Z5 already has a mechanism of stabilization (closed loop actuator) hardware implemented?

  Someone from Sony can confirm?

  There is no option for the stabilizer of image for photos in the new user interface of the camera application. Instead, the image stabilizer is always on.

• Export without loss after Warp nouvis Image stabilization

  I apply image stabilization, then I want to make and re-import for correcting the colors and others. To speed up performance, due to the

  nature of the process of Image Stabilazation makes slow of course.

  The source file is saved with a helmet Cam Replay XD 1080 (model HD) .mov

  Basically I want to export the video with just the 'stabilizer chain', with possibility to reimport

  However, default lossless is out showing as AVI...

  I know how to change the format setting.

  However, I saw a video where when the guy did, she kept the .mov format, and it was not obliged to .avi.

  And anyway I go, the size of the resulting file is large enough.

  Is this normal?

  The default output on Windows module is an AVI file without compression. The default on Mac OS is a MOV file with compression without loss of Animation. Either of them will give you a huge file, since one is uncomprssed and one is only slightly compressed.

  more information here:

  http://forums.Adobe.com/thread/684381

• Image stabilization creates warpy images! All the patches?

  I need to stabilize the movement of the real/frame image - but when I use Image stablilisation picks it up

  on any movement "within the image' (i.e. a tree blowing in the foreground) which gives a very nervous effect of deformation.

  Any way around this?

  Thanks in advance!

  FCPX v.10.0.4

  V.10.7.5 Mac OS x (on iMAC)

  WWhich type stabilization do you use? Try out the other.

• Still holding image stabilization!

  Hello world!

  So I've always used iMovie to edit and make movies.

  I am currently a video, only like duration of 3 minutes.

  My first few clips are only between 2-5 seconds each.

  The first 3 stabilized without any problem, only took a minute or two. After 3 of them stabilized well, none of my other clips will be.

  For example, this clip, I'm working with right now is only 3 seconds long and tried to stabilize for HOURS.

  I tried to restart iMovie with no result. I left it running while I went to dinner to return to stabilising. So I tried to move to some other short clips and I always use the same question. It's so frustrating!

  Please, I hope someone has an answer for me!

  Now, he has decided to work!

  Do not know how to remove this element

• FS7K lens Image stabilization

  Received my KIt FS7K Thursday here in the United Kingdom.

  First of all, let me give you a profile of use of the previous video Sony:

  Currently I still own both the Sony HVR - Z5 (using Atomos) and Sony HXR - NX5 - my market spent was of videos on the site. Have all two large x 20 G lenses with IS excellent for the operation at hand. What residual movement at hand could often be stabilized using Adobe 5.5 and 2014 CC AE Stabilsing - no probem. I'm a fan of the 'pocket' more of 20 years, dating back to the early days of broadcasting in English

  What I see in my test of the FS7K shots is much more "shake". In fact I would say the lens SELP28135G gives me NO stabilization even if I chose the option "camera > Steadyshot > Steadyshot.» "Steadyshot Active" option which, in my experience in previous products, is 'more aggressive' is not selectable.

  I can confirm that the 'Otptical Steady Shot' switch on the lens all is market' '.

  Formats and codecs I test: HD 1920 x 1080 50 p and 50i as my previous experiences - not yet disappeared to test the 4K again.

  What gives? We expect the firmware updates?

  The Steadyshot indicator in the viewfinder, not necessarily told you the truth! This is why you must turn it on whenever you turn on. It is my understanding that this issue will be resolved in a next update.

  The asset IS is not compatible with the objective of stock but is compatible with some other Sony lens. Talk to your Sony representative to find out which ones who.

  See you soon,.

  Chris

• Images may appear blurry even when f stop is at F22

  I bought the Canon SL1 with the standard 18-55mm IS. I am having some problems with the update. I can't attach the picture of this post to show you... But here's a description: the lower part looks a little blurry; in fact, the rest of the photo is too (but especially if I have much zoom in several times I found it). Image stabilization is enabled. Italy snow photo is F22, 80 (hand-held) ISO 100 speed. With this F stop, I expect 100% objective. It was not windy. Even when I use a tripod and the speed is faster (125 +) I have this problem to varying degrees. This could be the cause? I would appreciate any thoughts! I realize without seeing photos, you may not be able to help me, but thought I'd try! Thank you and happy holidays, Annie

  amatula wrote:

  Thank you! It's all very useful.

  I just found how to post pictures. Here are two. Note: both I used an older Sunpack UV filter. Both were at hand.
  The parameters were:

  Barn: ISO 200 F16 125 manual

  Other ISO 100 F22 80 manual snow scene mode (wind was not blowing, but note that the snow on the bottom of the picture appears blurred)

  Dosage for the two - Center weighed

  Picture style: standard

  Large/fine image quality

  I have other photos without the filter that have the same problem with sharpness not total throughout the picture.

  With all the pictures, I have the camera set to 18 mm

  I think buy the 2.8 lens or a 1.8 but just want to be sure I can photograph this first goal successfully.

  Yet once, I really appreciate the help - I don't remember these problems with my old Nikon film SLR; Therefore, a new learning experience for me!

  Annie

  Buying a lens f/1.8 or f/2.8 will do nothing to help your images because the question is that you are using too small of an opening (too high f/number).

  Something from a film camera to a digital camera APS - C, you need to understand is that all openings you are using shift by one f-stop. So f/16 on your digital Rebel will give you the same depth of field to use f/22 on a film camera. And it goes the same for diffraction f/22 on your rebel gives you the same amount of diffraction to use f/32 on your film camera.

  Diffraction sets in at the beginning when you use an APS - C sesnor. An optimal sharpness with your lens at 18mm is at f/5.6 and stop after that diffraction more impact on the photo and becomes less sharp your image. So it becomes a balancing act between the maximum sharpness and an adequate depth of field.

  Angles more wide lenses have a very large depth of field. I would suggest to 18mm, you try to use f/8. Still, this gives a very large depth of field to about 4 ft to infinity and reduce diffraction as a factor in the sharpness of your image.

  You can also try to use the picture style 'Landscape', because it gives a bit more sharpening.

  Edit: I also would try to support the distance of your update until you get more comfortable with the performance of your new equipment. (e.g. support 5 shots with emphasis varying between 5 feet and 1/3 of the way in the photo) Unlike with film it costs you nothing but time.

• writing to micro sd

  I have a 32g micro sd on my tab 7. Slate recoconizes it.  If I copy the files to it from my laptop, it access it fine.  I can see both the internal and external storage without problem.

  I can't get my photos from my camera to automatically record on the micro sd card and my internal storage fills up.  All my other android devices allow me to choose to record in the internal storage or on the micro sd card. I can't find any way to do it on the 7 slate.  All records in the internal memory.

  How do I actually use the "expanded" Storage automatically?  I really want to have to manually move the files from internal to external storage.

  Thank you!

  I think it may depend on the app.

  In order to answer your question, I started to play with my camera HP Slate 7 and could not find a way to specify the default path with the built-in camera and Gallery apps. HOWEVER, if you are willing to spend the price of a coffee of fantasy on an app, I just bought Camera Zoom FX (to check that it worked) and he does.

  Not only can you specify where you want your stored photos, you simply touch the screen - anywhere on the screen (not just the small blue button) and take the picture. It also has image stabilization and a ton of other features that I have not yet begun to deepen.  Obviously, it is not an official endorsement, but I'm pretty happy with the app, personally.

• I can't make a decision

  Hi, I missed to get an iPhone for a while especially because I had some experience with Android phones, I wanted to mix things up trying on Apple's iOS for a change.

  Now that I've explained why I chose to get an iPhone for my next phone, then comes my dilemma to choose the one that suits, I was shared between SE iPhone, iPhone 6s and 6 s iPhone more.

  Now, I notice all the features I like, the features, I do not understand and features that I don't like.

  First I'll note the features of the iPhone OS

  So the fact that the iPhone is a small phone compared to its larger counterparts, I like this feature (I have a few little fingers, may be returned to sentence my whole hand around a 6th generation iPod Touch)

  The fact that there the same A9 chip like the 6s and 6 s is also a thumbs up for me

  Despite the fact that rarely take pictures, but I like the rear 12 megapixel iSight camera.

  The storage of the iPhone is something that I'm disappointed, as I am a * a pig of storage, I have a 16 GB iPod Touch Gen 6 and 16 GB is just not enough for me, and I don't think I'll be never satisfied with 64 GB, given that, in my experience, the iOS takes about 12 GB of storage , so I hate the fact that this is only 16 gb and 64 gb.

  The size of the screen I can get used to, but the resolution I can't, I mean 640, I prefer 1080 p +.

  I don't know what contrast ratio is but 800: 1, no thanks I prefer 1400:1.

  I don't care CDMA EV - DO Rev A, mainly because I have no idea what it is.

  Second generation of fingerprint sensor integrated into the Home button, yes why the iPhone 6 and 6 s most have this and the iPhone don't SE I don't understand, so thumbs down on this one there

  I don't know what's optical image stabilization, so someone will have to explain that one myself.

  I will never use facetime so I will make Facetime function altogether.

  The speaking time I frown on, I mean why of up to 14 hours in 3G compare 6 s and up to 24 hours on 3G, Apple, why. But then again I'm not on calls more 30-3 h (thank you Skype)

  Waiting time, no idea what it is, but I would prefer 16 days for 10 days.

  I would like to playback HD prefer up to 14 hours instead of 11 or 13 hours.

  I would like to up to 80 hours of audio playback more than 50 hours

  I have no idea what the Taptic engine is so someone will have to explain it to me in terms laymans (wikipedia had so much information about this I could not deal with all of this)

  and the last one is I have no idea what Touch 3D is, so once again a person should use terms to explain as laymans.

  anyway thanks for reading

  I hope that someone can recommend me the iPhone well, I like to take a good for my first iPhone

  Please take what I said into consideration as any time in general I ask for advice on a part or whatever, I get a response from ofmixed of heap and not a single response that help my decision

  If you have small hands, this is one that probably suits you best physically.

  But if you prefer the more spec then then you're going to go for the one that best meets you.

  It packs everything from the 6s less 3D, engine Taptic, large touch screen, Touch ID 2 etc etc.

  Optical Image stabilization - the camera lens is stabilized in its own vibration module / sudden movement in your hand.

  Engine Taptic - instead of a typical & offset engine engine vibration, it weighs a mass suspended on springs that is forced through the magnetism, so the weight displacement causes the physical movement, that you feel, its very strong and much more distinguishable.

  3D Touch - screen has an additional feature that gives him the ability to measure the force, like a set of scales to put it simply. If you "Force Touch' on 3D touch improved applications, it appears with an extra menu with shortcuts to the features/characteristics within this application.

  

  The end of it, I think you have to go with what you have the most need, are the plug or is it physically which best fits your hand?

  I will say that they will all do everything you need, tactile 3D, picture stabilization and engine Taptic are nice, but not deal breakers.

• How the Camileo x 200 to work as a Webcam?

  Hi all

  I just bought a camera, Camileo X 200. I'm trying to make it work as a webcam. I have the Visual on my screen, but am not allowed to save or use the zoom or any other option.

  Is it possible to fix this?

  I use the software youcam 5 to save.

  Thanks in advance,

  Renko

  Hello

  As far as I know you can use the webcam for video conference mode live using a 3rd party software like Skype for example in the user's manual there is a note: zoom is only available for video recording.
  If you can not use in webcam mode.
  Also I have another camcorder Camileo, and in my case, the zoom does not work if the image stabilization is enabled. Check this box too.

  Regarding registration:
  In my opinion you can not use the cam as a webcam and record a video at one and the same time.
  As far as I know the software you use must record video using the webcam.

• Shaky video Clip - Camileo

  I bought the clip you want to use to record my walks. I tested it using the stabilizer and waiving the clip that I was walking along, but the video has been jumping around so it was very bad! How the hell can I overcome this problem? If I "clip" she me then the shaking will be even worse at least in my hand more stable sound. I even tried software video stabilization, but the original film is so unstable, that the software does not support!

  Well, I wrote already in your other thread on this camcorder.
  The Camileo snap the playful s, part camcorder designed for shooting small segments of a group event. Don't expect too much of this fun camcorder.

  AFAIK this camcorder supports image stabilization
  Electronic image stabilization helps minimize the fragile video effect you but of course that you don't expect too much a camcorder for £60.

• The distortion of rolling shutter correction

  Having bought just an a6300 of Sony, and especially making amateur videos to hand while traveling light (IE tripods, Gimbals etc out of the question), my first tests confirm that despite the use of a lens with optical image stabilization I have will fight the effects of distortion of rolling shutter on the set of 4 K, even more than in the past with the HD on my NEX5N.

  While I found the FCP X built-in stabilization work very well, I never found the buit - in rolling shutter effective correction to eliminate the residues 'wobble', which sometimes is just too obvious after stabilization.

  A year ago I tried to Core melt Lock & Load to see if I could improve some clips (admittedly very difficult) seals on the rocks, taken from a boat rocking but was not able to improve the built-in tools to do not buy.  However, it seems there have since been several important updates to Lock & Load, but now of course I can't try the latest version out without having to buy.

  So, I want first of all to learn from the experiences of others to solve/minimize this problem.  Are there other plugins that people have found more effective than integrated?

  Geoff.

  If Lock & Load cannot fix it, it can't be fixed.  There is a slight distortion which is beyond fixing.  You can use non-comparable and other shutter speeds when you pull.

• Sony Action Cam (as15): Vids look blurry and a bit muddy with box waterproof

  Aloha,

  I use the 1080/60 p setting with "image stabilizer" and my underwater vids seem sort of blur and no crunchy cases like my Go Pro 3 vids.

  Wondering if someone from another shoot under water have the same problem?