FS7K lens Image stabilization

Similar Questions

• 18-55mm of an old XTi lens: need to upgrade for image stabilization?

  I have a lens EFS 18-55 m supplied with an old Canon Rebel XTi (from 2006?) I'm looking to upgrade to a new body, but I don't know if I have to / should upgrade the goal too.

  My main concern is this old lens has image stabilization, or if the new lenses are much better image stabilization (enough to justify an upgrade to a new lens.) Anyone know?

  Thanks in advance!

  The reason IS is valuable on this focal length is, it is so slow that anyone holding going to need all the help they can get.  They are OK for light of day but go inside and a slow lens needs help.

  I would buy the new version of the EF-S 18-55mm STM with IS.  Especially in the kit as it is a good deal.  Not only a goal faster when we focus, the optics are better, too.

• Camileo S10 camera does not remember the setting of the image stabilizer

  Hello reader Forum,.

  Is it normal that my Camileo S10 camera does not remember setting image stabilizer?
  I use mostly the 720px setting and stabilizing on but after that the camera is off the stabilizer is off again.

  Greetzz... Ben

  Hello

  This could be possible.
  I remember that the focus does not work if the stabilization has been activated
  So maybe it of the intent of the manufacturer that the stabilizer would be disabled again.

  Welcome them

• XA - 25 Image stabilization

  Is it possible to have the image on all the time stabilization.  I use Powered IS.  I have the camera on a tripod at the top of a long vertical column.  On high zoom just shoots touch stirs the camera image.  It's great when IS turned on, wish it could always be on.  Is this possible?

  Thanks for any help.

  Don

  Hi dedxa25 and VideoGeek.

  Thanks to all of you for posting.

  After a period of time without motion detection, Image Stabilizer will stop.  There isn't a way, I can find which affect permanently the Image Stabilizer to.  Since I use the powers Powered IS the Image Stabilizer for a short, but long enough time to make the transition, you can use the assigned button, that you have set to power the EAST just before removing the camcorder tripod.

• Image stabilization (still images) are no longer available on the camera 2.0?

  Can't seem to find him after the update, and other users have also reported the same. Why it was deleted?

  Or does that mean that there is no need for default, the Z5 already has a mechanism of stabilization (closed loop actuator) hardware implemented?

  Someone from Sony can confirm?

  There is no option for the stabilizer of image for photos in the new user interface of the camera application. Instead, the image stabilizer is always on.

• Export without loss after Warp nouvis Image stabilization

  I apply image stabilization, then I want to make and re-import for correcting the colors and others. To speed up performance, due to the

  nature of the process of Image Stabilazation makes slow of course.

  The source file is saved with a helmet Cam Replay XD 1080 (model HD) .mov

  Basically I want to export the video with just the 'stabilizer chain', with possibility to reimport

  However, default lossless is out showing as AVI...

  I know how to change the format setting.

  However, I saw a video where when the guy did, she kept the .mov format, and it was not obliged to .avi.

  And anyway I go, the size of the resulting file is large enough.

  Is this normal?

  The default output on Windows module is an AVI file without compression. The default on Mac OS is a MOV file with compression without loss of Animation. Either of them will give you a huge file, since one is uncomprssed and one is only slightly compressed.

  more information here:

  http://forums.Adobe.com/thread/684381

• Image stabilization creates warpy images! All the patches?

  I need to stabilize the movement of the real/frame image - but when I use Image stablilisation picks it up

  on any movement "within the image' (i.e. a tree blowing in the foreground) which gives a very nervous effect of deformation.

  Any way around this?

  Thanks in advance!

  FCPX v.10.0.4

  V.10.7.5 Mac OS x (on iMAC)

  WWhich type stabilization do you use? Try out the other.

• Still holding image stabilization!

  Hello world!

  So I've always used iMovie to edit and make movies.

  I am currently a video, only like duration of 3 minutes.

  My first few clips are only between 2-5 seconds each.

  The first 3 stabilized without any problem, only took a minute or two. After 3 of them stabilized well, none of my other clips will be.

  For example, this clip, I'm working with right now is only 3 seconds long and tried to stabilize for HOURS.

  I tried to restart iMovie with no result. I left it running while I went to dinner to return to stabilising. So I tried to move to some other short clips and I always use the same question. It's so frustrating!

  Please, I hope someone has an answer for me!

  Now, he has decided to work!

  Do not know how to remove this element

• Focus on the t3i problem

  My t3i is having focusing problems. What may be the cause?  Can I have very well to the development as on fullframe cameras?

  Kolourl3lind wrote:

  OK I'll do it, but I just realized maybe it's because I'm zoom after focus and recompose?

  Yep - most of the lenses are "varifocale" - which means that if you focus carefully on a subject at a few focal length in the range of zoom... then zoom to a new lens, then your topic will be specifically developed in the.  You must refocus the goal.

  There are a few lenses that are "parfocal" - means that if you zoom the lens after update, your subject will always be precisely focused.  However... VERY FEW lenses is technically "parfocal" (even if some are close).

  The lenses I know who are "parfocal" are:

  • EF 16-135mm f/2.8 L USM
  • EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM
  • EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM (only the non)

  That's all.  If you use any other goal, he must refocus the goal after a zoom.

  But I also noticed that you were aiming at 1/15 sec.  It's a little slow, but you were at 18mm (which helps).  Here is the guideline on this.

  In the days of 35mm, there was to be a general rule that if the shutter speed is equal to, or faster than 1/focal length (e.g.. If the shot at 50 mm from you would be at least 1/50th sec at 70 mm you would be at least 1/70th or more fast, etc) would be appropriate.  This number does not apply to your T3i, but I'll be back in a moment.

  But there are some caveats with this...

  First, it assumes that you use actually very good camera-technical operation and you really WANT to be stable.  Good camera-technical operation means that you support the camera down - usually your left is the palm-up supporting the bottom of the camera and lens and your elbow is in verse your chest/belly.    Your weight is centered between your legs and you have a wide position.  This means that you are not leaning so your muscles must work hard to stand and your weapons as a brace to support the camera to your body and, of course, your body is well balanced and stable.

  Secondly, it is just a 'guide' - not a rule.  Some people are apparently able to be more stable than others (and if caffiene makes nervous and you just drank a coffee... and all that sort of thing.)  And it takes some practice to learn the proper technique.

  Thirdly, it is also not the same for the cameras (like your T3i) APS - C sized sensor.  To make the camera, you would have to the multiple minimum speed by the crop factor of the camera.  For a Canon APS - C camera is 1.6 (but if you wanted to use 1.5 which would be close enough.)  That means 50 mm instead of using 1/50th you would actually use 1/75th (technically 1/80th if we use the factor 1.6).  for example 50 x 1.6 = 80 so for 50mm, we would use 1/80th.

  If you have a goal that includes image stabilization, so you can be able to pull a little slower.

  Image stabilization in most claims to improve the stability of the lens of 2 to 4 "stop".  Does that mean that you can reduce the shutter speed... two to four times slower that you would normally need the lens because stabilizes for you.   But more caveats apply because it is not as simple as 'get you 4 stops.  The stabilization is not a guarantee... that's just a liklihood.  If it were to be less ambitious to stabilize your shot he will be much more likely to succeed.  If she must be more ambitious to stabilize your shot, then he'll do it is better... but there is no guarantee that it will work.

  You were aiming at 18mm.  So, if you use technical excellent posture and camera-operation but don't have image stabilization and that you are the one "average" trying to hold the camera steady, then we multiply 18 x 1.6 and go down to 28.8.  There is no shuter speed 1 / 28.8th so we turn to 1/30th (because there is a 1/30th.

  1 stop slower than 1/30 is 1/15th, and image stabilization is probably enough to make you slower 1 stop successfully.

  2 times slower is 1/8th.  Image stabilization that claims "4 stops" will be generally well 2 stops.  So it is less than a sure thing, but he tilt the odds in your favor.

  3 times slower is 1/4 sec.  At this point, you are pushing the image stabilization system... you will notice that if you shoot a lot of frames, the rate of "keeper" (tips, you like) will be lower, but you will see that you have found some.

  4 times slower is 1/2 sec (based on the basis of 1/30th for a focal length of 18mm on an APS - C size sensor device).  If you press any stabilized lens image 4 stops, don't expect to get a very high rate of keeper.  It will help you sometimes, but you have to accept you are really be ambitious in your expectations.

  This is image stabilization by the numbers... take the focal distance, multiply it by your crop factor (which is always in 1.6, but if you want to use 1.5 because it is somewhat easy to do this calculation in our head that's close enough), round up to the nearest available shutter speed.  If you have image stabilization that you can speed up the shutter speed of 1, 2, 3 or 4 times faster... but every time you get more ambitious your chances of obtaining 'gatekeepers' go down (but it is better than without image stabilization at all.)

  The summary is that your minimum shutter speed (assuming good holding technique and you're stable, etc etc) with stabilizing image out of the 1/30th would be your minimum speed.  At 1/15 sec am that you relied on 1-stop image stabilization help.  The lens image stabilization technology is good enough so that 'most of the time' it will probably be able to do (not guaranteed... only likely.)  If you were NOT using a good posture and technical outfit... you can be difficult to your image stabilization system to try to keep up.

• What should I buy objective 17-40 or the 24-105 Lens Kit?

  Hello again,

  And after the great success of the support team here and advise.

  I'll buy the Canon 6 d this weekend...

  I thought based on my Style (architecture, landscapes, night photography) photography (attached sample of my work)

  to buy the only 6 d body + canon 17-40 F4 as affordable for wide angle type, but i got to know that this cam lens without image stabilizer, which really confused me and return to think again buy the camera with its objective of kit (24-105) as it comes with stabilizer more range and image ,

  So the question, is image stablizer is a must? who advises you to go with?

  Thanks in advance for anything that can advise you in this decision.

  Concerning

  

  Janabi79 wrote:

  Dear Scotty,

  the image that I took was in camera (canon 7 d) cropped sensor Using Sigma 10-20 with the settings below:

• Why canon 100-400mm fucos not good lens

  Why objective canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6l usm fucos not well when I take wild birds, the lens just in and out when I fucos with the subject and take a picture, I try a lot of adjustment, but the problem still not solved, the lens is used from adorama tv, the camera is canon70d up, my other two canon lens works very well with my camera Thanks for any help.

  Some of the parameters that could shake your shots are:

  • Number of AF Points - manually by selecting just the central point is simpler to draw
  • Shooting mode - "One Shot" mode is easier to use for most of the scenarios.
  • Focus lens mode - your lens must have settings to adjust the focus of the distance to the subject.
  • Image stabilization - your lens must have parameters to refine the IS.

  One or all of these settings may affect the focus in your images.  What settings are you using?  How far is your subjecgt?  What focal length you are trying to use?  You use a tripod, or handheld?  What are your exposure settings?

• Lens sizes / use / meaning

  I currently have the lens EF-S 18-55mm and EF 75-300mm lens for my Canon Rebel T3i. I was graciously endowed with a 40mm lens for Christmas with the option to exchange it for another purpose. We'd like to think that the 40mm is covered by the 18-55mm lens, but I'm not completely sure how it works so any assistance with suggestions, meanings of size and/or what they do greatly would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

  Caroline_7 wrote:

  I currently have the lens EF-S 18-55mm and EF 75-300mm lens for my Canon Rebel T3i. I was graciously endowed with a 40mm lens for Christmas with the option to exchange it for another purpose. We'd like to think that the 40mm is covered by the 18-55mm lens, but I'm not completely sure how it works so any assistance with suggestions, meanings of size and/or what they do greatly would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

  Yes, the 18-55mm lens can capture the same field of view as the 40mm lens.  The difference is that the 40mm can do to a greater opening (allows more light in and allows a smaller depth of field for that look "background blur").  It will also produce images sharper than the 18-55.  How much sharper depends on how to use it.

  Prime lenses (no zoom) are not for everyone.  You must use your feet instead of zoom in and out.  In addition, they (generally) don't have image stabilizer, which has your 18-55.  The compromise is that they can produce extremely sharp images and allow you to shoot in dim light situations.

  I tend to like them, so maybe I'm not the best person to comment on.  But one of the main advantages of the lenses privileged is a very wide opening.  The 40mm "pancake" lens is actually not all that wide at f/2.8.  It's better than your zoom, but not as wide as something like the 50mm 1.8 "nifty fifty".  The main advantage of the pancake lens is just that it is very thin, for those who want a small lens.  Personally I would recommend the 50mm lens on the 40mm, because it has greater openness.  But I have never used the 40mm - there are many people who love him.

  Be that as it may, I do not recommend trying a first goal.  As I said, they are not for everyone.  But you won't know until you try.  And what better way to try to donate.

• Images may appear blurry even when f stop is at F22

  I bought the Canon SL1 with the standard 18-55mm IS. I am having some problems with the update. I can't attach the picture of this post to show you... But here's a description: the lower part looks a little blurry; in fact, the rest of the photo is too (but especially if I have much zoom in several times I found it). Image stabilization is enabled. Italy snow photo is F22, 80 (hand-held) ISO 100 speed. With this F stop, I expect 100% objective. It was not windy. Even when I use a tripod and the speed is faster (125 +) I have this problem to varying degrees. This could be the cause? I would appreciate any thoughts! I realize without seeing photos, you may not be able to help me, but thought I'd try! Thank you and happy holidays, Annie

  amatula wrote:

  Thank you! It's all very useful.

  I just found how to post pictures. Here are two. Note: both I used an older Sunpack UV filter. Both were at hand.
  The parameters were:

  Barn: ISO 200 F16 125 manual

  Other ISO 100 F22 80 manual snow scene mode (wind was not blowing, but note that the snow on the bottom of the picture appears blurred)

  Dosage for the two - Center weighed

  Picture style: standard

  Large/fine image quality

  I have other photos without the filter that have the same problem with sharpness not total throughout the picture.

  With all the pictures, I have the camera set to 18 mm

  I think buy the 2.8 lens or a 1.8 but just want to be sure I can photograph this first goal successfully.

  Yet once, I really appreciate the help - I don't remember these problems with my old Nikon film SLR; Therefore, a new learning experience for me!

  Annie

  Buying a lens f/1.8 or f/2.8 will do nothing to help your images because the question is that you are using too small of an opening (too high f/number).

  Something from a film camera to a digital camera APS - C, you need to understand is that all openings you are using shift by one f-stop. So f/16 on your digital Rebel will give you the same depth of field to use f/22 on a film camera. And it goes the same for diffraction f/22 on your rebel gives you the same amount of diffraction to use f/32 on your film camera.

  Diffraction sets in at the beginning when you use an APS - C sesnor. An optimal sharpness with your lens at 18mm is at f/5.6 and stop after that diffraction more impact on the photo and becomes less sharp your image. So it becomes a balancing act between the maximum sharpness and an adequate depth of field.

  Angles more wide lenses have a very large depth of field. I would suggest to 18mm, you try to use f/8. Still, this gives a very large depth of field to about 4 ft to infinity and reduce diffraction as a factor in the sharpness of your image.

  You can also try to use the picture style 'Landscape', because it gives a bit more sharpening.

  Edit: I also would try to support the distance of your update until you get more comfortable with the performance of your new equipment. (e.g. support 5 shots with emphasis varying between 5 feet and 1/3 of the way in the photo) Unlike with film it costs you nothing but time.

• Add melted to javascript image rotation

  I managed to get a picture of tating working with the following javascript code:

  < script type = "text/javascript" >

  (function() {}

  Rotator var = document.getElementById ('rotator');

  var imageDir = ";

  var delayInSeconds = 5;

  var images = ['h-images / homepage.jpg ',' h-images / rentalspage.jpg ',' h-images / investpage.jpg ""];

  var num = 0;

  Arrows var = function() {}

  var len = images.length;

  Rotator.SRC = imageDir + photos [num ++];

  If (num == len) {}

  num = 0;

  }

  };

  setInterval (arrows, delayInSeconds * 1000);

  })();

  < /script >

  the page is www.helenmarino.com/test.html (you may need to refresh the page)

  I'm surprised that I managed to get far if just simple added this code to make the images fade well would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you very much

  Helen

  Boils down to a problem of path/name.

  Change this in your page:

  to do this:

  Nancy O.

• I can't make a decision

  Hi, I missed to get an iPhone for a while especially because I had some experience with Android phones, I wanted to mix things up trying on Apple's iOS for a change.

  Now that I've explained why I chose to get an iPhone for my next phone, then comes my dilemma to choose the one that suits, I was shared between SE iPhone, iPhone 6s and 6 s iPhone more.

  Now, I notice all the features I like, the features, I do not understand and features that I don't like.

  First I'll note the features of the iPhone OS

  So the fact that the iPhone is a small phone compared to its larger counterparts, I like this feature (I have a few little fingers, may be returned to sentence my whole hand around a 6th generation iPod Touch)

  The fact that there the same A9 chip like the 6s and 6 s is also a thumbs up for me

  Despite the fact that rarely take pictures, but I like the rear 12 megapixel iSight camera.

  The storage of the iPhone is something that I'm disappointed, as I am a * a pig of storage, I have a 16 GB iPod Touch Gen 6 and 16 GB is just not enough for me, and I don't think I'll be never satisfied with 64 GB, given that, in my experience, the iOS takes about 12 GB of storage , so I hate the fact that this is only 16 gb and 64 gb.

  The size of the screen I can get used to, but the resolution I can't, I mean 640, I prefer 1080 p +.

  I don't know what contrast ratio is but 800: 1, no thanks I prefer 1400:1.

  I don't care CDMA EV - DO Rev A, mainly because I have no idea what it is.

  Second generation of fingerprint sensor integrated into the Home button, yes why the iPhone 6 and 6 s most have this and the iPhone don't SE I don't understand, so thumbs down on this one there

  I don't know what's optical image stabilization, so someone will have to explain that one myself.

  I will never use facetime so I will make Facetime function altogether.

  The speaking time I frown on, I mean why of up to 14 hours in 3G compare 6 s and up to 24 hours on 3G, Apple, why. But then again I'm not on calls more 30-3 h (thank you Skype)

  Waiting time, no idea what it is, but I would prefer 16 days for 10 days.

  I would like to playback HD prefer up to 14 hours instead of 11 or 13 hours.

  I would like to up to 80 hours of audio playback more than 50 hours

  I have no idea what the Taptic engine is so someone will have to explain it to me in terms laymans (wikipedia had so much information about this I could not deal with all of this)

  and the last one is I have no idea what Touch 3D is, so once again a person should use terms to explain as laymans.

  anyway thanks for reading

  I hope that someone can recommend me the iPhone well, I like to take a good for my first iPhone

  Please take what I said into consideration as any time in general I ask for advice on a part or whatever, I get a response from ofmixed of heap and not a single response that help my decision

  If you have small hands, this is one that probably suits you best physically.

  But if you prefer the more spec then then you're going to go for the one that best meets you.

  It packs everything from the 6s less 3D, engine Taptic, large touch screen, Touch ID 2 etc etc.

  Optical Image stabilization - the camera lens is stabilized in its own vibration module / sudden movement in your hand.

  Engine Taptic - instead of a typical & offset engine engine vibration, it weighs a mass suspended on springs that is forced through the magnetism, so the weight displacement causes the physical movement, that you feel, its very strong and much more distinguishable.

  3D Touch - screen has an additional feature that gives him the ability to measure the force, like a set of scales to put it simply. If you "Force Touch' on 3D touch improved applications, it appears with an extra menu with shortcuts to the features/characteristics within this application.

  

  The end of it, I think you have to go with what you have the most need, are the plug or is it physically which best fits your hand?

  I will say that they will all do everything you need, tactile 3D, picture stabilization and engine Taptic are nice, but not deal breakers.