5 d mark iii points AF (concentrate) is displayed on the LCD

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• When zoomed in on a waveform graph, how can I get all of the data points that is currently displayed on the graph?

  I use X-zoom tool on the graphic palette. In this chart, the x-axis are time. Thus, for example, if I have 30 seconds displayed on the x-axis of the complete graph, and I want to zoom in on the Middle 10 seconds, how can I get the axis y data points that correspond to this average 10 seconds?

  Similar to Cory's suggestion, could you use the X - Scale-> range-> the Min and Max properties to retrieve the appropriate data?

  Maybe even link your sweater of data for the range of scale change event?

• 5 D Mark iii

  I'm a new 5 5 d Mark iii owner.   I am wanting to get good shots of my nephew play basketball.  Any suggestions on preferred to get clear shots.  Thank you!

  Here is a description of how to get your camera in a mode where it is optimized for basketball.  But before you go shoot a... practice game get all these settings dialed in and go do some shooting test for you ensure that you are comfortable with the way it all works.  If you want to learn the game you might lack-shots more simply because you are not yet used to the works of the camera when shooting sports.

  IS owning an EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM II will certainly help (if you do not have the one of them already, put it on your wish list.  Everyone has this lens... or wants this goal.  It is not even of importance if you pull the sport - it is the goal of goto used by a lot of wedding and portrait photographers, and it is also the goal for indoor sports such as basketball.)  I have the original (version I) of this lens and it is the lens that lives on my camera all the time.

  You probably want to use mode AF 6 cases (this is the recommended Canon for basketball - auto focus tracking mode although they also offer 4 cases).

  Since you specifically want to follow your nephew and do not pull on any player, you might want to settle out of the 'sensibility' - this features determines how much the camera prefer to stick to a single topic vs pass and start tracking on a different topic.  The default value of the 6A box followed the sensitivity in the Middle at the level of the marker "0".    If you want the camera to stick to your subject and not be so willing to move to a new topic then you might want to disable tune elsewhere up to-1.   To do this:

  1. Press MENU
  2. Go to page 1 (of 5 possible pages of AF settings in the system menu) FA
  3. Access to the rear of select respectively 6 (the last case on the list), then press the SET button to select.
  4. Press RATE button to allow a custom setting.
  5. Use the back line to select "Tracking Sensitivity" (top choice - it can be highlighted by default because it is the first choice) and press SET to select.
  6. Use the rear wheel - and turn it in the opposite direction with a click to '-1' (to facilitate your stay ' locked on ' more 'reactive' - sensitive would cause him to jumpt to a new material more easily).  Press SET to lock in this change.
  7. Press MENU repeatedly to exit the menu system.

  Then activate the "AI Servo" - the default mode is the mode of the development of 'One Shot'.  In One Shot mode, the camera will activate focus when you half-press the shutter button... but once he realizes the development on a topic, the system turns off and await you take the picture.  Unfortunately in the sport, that your subjects are constantly in motion... so if you take this shot the camera focus on the place where the player USED TO BE and not where they are now.

  When you use the "AI Servo" mode, the camera will continuously follow focus so that the player moves.

  Press the 'AF-Drive' button on top of the camera.

  Use the front dial to mode selection "HAVE Servo".

  Use the back line to select "high-speed" burst (it looks like a stack of 3 rectangles with an 'H' beside it.)

  Then, put the camera in the correct AF point selection mode.

  Press the button of the AF point selection.  It is the button in the extreme upper right corner on the back.  The icon looks like a rectangle with a pattern of cross in the shape of points in there (these are intended to resemble talking points.)

  When the AF point selection menu is displayed on the back of the camera, press the M - Fn button (next to the shutter button on the top front of the camera) and this will cause its making scroll all the AF point selection modes available.  Mode "Auto selection: 61 pt AF" (which means the camera can use ANY point he wants.

  One caveat... If for some reason you cannot take this mode... There is a menu that allows you to toggle modes.  If there is a way you think that you'd never use (some photographers simply toggle between two modes favorite all the time), you can turn off the ones you don't use.  If you have done this, then the mode you use could be disabled and you will need to reactivate this mode.)

  NOW you are ready to shoot... but there are two caveats more you need to know.

  #1 when you use the update of "AI Servo" mode, the unit also uses a behavior called "release priority".  Normally, your camera is in 'One Shot mode "that uses"Priority Focus"and that means that the camera will not take a shot until it can confirm a focus lock.  But in "Release priority" behavior the camera WILL TAKE the shot as SOON as you press the shutter button (shutter reelease) all down... and they're going to do it whether OR NOT IT WAS CENTERED!  If you need to make sure that the device locked focus and keeps track of your subject before press you the button completely or you will get just a lot of blurry photos.

  #2--while the camera CAN use a 61 point AF in this mode... you will notice that when you put the viewfinder of the camera to your eye and half-press the shutter release button that you do not see a point AF (black square).  This is the point where the camera guess he'll START tracking your subject.  But since you have an automatic case followed enabled, it will "follow" your subject moving.  If you lose the subject, you must give this starting point on your topic to gain focus again on them.    BTW, you can choose any desired starting point.  As you look through the viewfinder, place your thumb on the browser of 8 channels (the small joystick controlled by your thumb just above the line back) and you will see you can rock up, down, left, right, etc. and the black square will go where you want (well... one of the 61 points AF.)

  Don't be afraid to crank the ISO... the 5 d III can take it.  I think nothing of shooting at ISO 3200 and 6400 ISO same... While there is a bit of noise at ISO 6400, it is EASILY treated in post processing because it's going to be noise rather moderate.

  Since you want to freeze action (you won't see the motion blur on your subjects) you'll want to keep the high shutter speed.

  1/500th sec is generally fast enough to freeze most of the topics, but you might see * some * blur of movement at that speed... He sneak a little higher upward will be useful (e.g. 1/800th or even 1/1000th).

  I second the recommendation to pull using Tv mode and set the shutter speed to 1/800th and use Auto ISO.   But... check the menu system for camera red page 2 (camera red tab... page 2 of 4 possible pages).  There is a 'ISO speed settings' option in this menu.  Please select this option and check "Auto ISO range".  I think it will be set to '100-12800' by default and that's fine.  But it is possible to reduce it... photographers who never want to shoot any ISO above at some point (for example assume that you never leave the Auto ISO to choose a frame above 1600) could set it to a low value that is too high for your interior lighting of basketball.   Just make sure that the camera is not permitted to mount the ISO when it should.

  Adobe Lightroom has an option of noise reduction very good (which is strange because the noise reduction in Photoshop is a dismal failure.  If you use Photoshop full I rely on a plugin noise reduction called 'Noiseware Pro' by Imagenomic.)

  Finally, there is an option called "button"return"focus" which like a lot of sports photographers.  It's practically a necessity before Canon started producing cameras with their new RIR system (it's tracking system smart topics to follow.).  The problem with old cameras was that in order to take a (full press the shutter button) you have to half press the shutter and focus WHICH triggered.  So if you follow an athlete and someone else gets in the way, the focus system normally developed to this distracting subject and not the subject.    So they released a feature called back focus button, which sets the focus to a "back" button (by default, this is the AF-ON button on a 5 d III, but it can be reassigned.)  This allows to take focus on the shutter button (half-pressing the shutter button will be 'meter' but won't focus.  A full press will still take the hit, but to focus the camera, you press the AF-ON button).  This allows you to keep an eye on distractions and take your thumb on the AF-ON button (if the camera stops the update from the update) until the distraction gets out of the frame and then you can continue to focus on your subject again.    You CAN activate this feautre if you wish (it is disabled by default).  It grows some nuts people... but some people who stick with it and get used to shoot ever sport otherwise.

• problem shooting with pc and Canon 5 d Mark III captive

  I have an Asus laptop (windows 10) with usb SS and Lightroom 2015 5.1 with creative cloud

  I connect my camera (Canon 5 d Mark III) with cable for canon, but during the may shooting time, the image will be not successful on PC, camera gives message cause 'busy' cannot transfer the photo.

  I reset all the 'camera '. PC... Maps... "ecc. ECC.  I try to use another cable... but the same situation! 1,2,3 shot is ok,... and later... give transfer problem.

  What problem is?

  -compatibility Canon 5 d mark III with Lightroom?

  -the gun cable is not able to transfer Hi image format? (Raw image)

  -10 windows?

  Please help me! :-)

  Hi deaweb,

  Please upgrade to the latest version of Lightroom CC 2015.6

  Make sure that your camera is connected via the 'PC connection' in the Communication tab.

  Also note that for 5 d Mark III, a card must be in the camera for attachment to work properly.

  See the difficulty of shooting tethered in Lightroom and let us know if this helps.

  Kind regards

  Assani

• Weird artifact that happens during the shooting of 60 fps on 5 d Mark III

  I'm shooting video with a 5 d Mark III and I always strange artifacts like the video attached when shooting at 60 fps...

  It is with the color correction, without it, it seems less weird than that, but I can still see... Usually, it happens on the lines or bouquets, trees... things that have a lot of texture...

  Where did that come from? I need help to get rid of it in the camera or with first post (my usual editing software)

  If I recall my settings were closed:

  Rate of 60 frames per second

  ISO 100

  F / 15

  Shutter speed: 1/125

  White balance: day

  Picture Style: Standard

  (I added some brightness for you guys to see it)

  Ask these guys if it works with mark iii

  VAF-5D2b optical filter Anti-Aliasing

• camera raw 6.7 need so I can open my 5 d mark iii Canon CR2 files

  I buy PS CS5 and says that my camera is compatible and it won't open the CR2 files camera raw to my canon 5 d Mark iii camera. I have used in the past and the highest ranking my hard drive for MAC OS x 10.9, bought new PS CS5 and Adobe will not update the Camera Raw 6 to 6.7 that using my files...

  Hi , redtulips54,

  There you go. Download the one you need, depending on your operating system.

  Adobe - Adobe Camera Raw and DNG Converter: for Windows: Camera Raw 6.7.1 update

  Adobe - Adobe Camera Raw and DNG Converter: for Macintosh: Camera Raw 6.7.1 update

  Hope that helps.

  See you soon!

  ~ David

• Canon 5 d mark iii

  Hi all

  Has anyone bought a 5 d mark iii (or any body pro) for Black Friday? I have an upcoming project in November and I was debating whether I should buy the camera now or shop Black Friday and delay the project in December. Does anyone know if the Treaty will be worth the wait? Canons refurbished mark iii sale in 1999 right now. Thank you!

  If you want, then buy it.  At some point, the cameras will be sold and will not be offered again.  Nobody on these forums knows what will be available a month from now.  I say buy it and start enjoying it, especially if it is for sale.

  If you watched the store refurbished Canon online for any length of tme, then you should have noted that some elements are briefly "In Stock" before selling.  Some items are in stock only once or twice a year and sell within hours where they are available.  I had a couple of points away from me because I waited to call my son after having obtained his work.

• Looking to buy a 5 d Mark III

  I'm looking on the 5 d mark III to my mulTIROTor.  In video mode, the focus can be set to infinity?  is it a camera or a lens option? Suggestions?

  Back to canon.  Former user of Nikon, but my new drive shaft does not my Nikon.

  Thank you

  clint6998 wrote:
  On the auto-focus, full time, it is smooth or jumpy? My Nikon's passing in and out before settling on a focal point, so I have to always focus manually.

  On my 7 d Mark II, video AF is fairly smooth except that it made a lot of noises annoying rattling on my non - STM lenses.  I read that the STM (stepper motor) lenses solves the problem, but I have nothing to test.

• Cannot open Raw of Mark III Canon 1DX files in CS6. [A: Plugin Raw 9.5.1]

  I just bought the Canon Mark III 1DX, I need the 9.5.1 plug to open RAW in Photoshop CS 6 files, I have downloaded and installed successfully on my Mac I also installed the DNG Converter... and yet, I can't open files in Photoshop? Any help appreciated.

  ACR version 9.1 is the last to run under Photoshop CS6.

  9.5.1 runs only under Photoshop CC.

  Open the DNG Converter that you downloaded and it points to a folder of raw files. Once converted, these files can be opened in any version of ACR.

• Focusing with 5 d Mark III problem

  I use my relatively new 5 d Mark III with my old lens 400mm 5.6 for bird photography.  Often, he will not grab the focus.  I have to more closely before manual focus it focuses.  It doesn't seem to matter which distance setting I use on the lens.

  So I'm missing quite a few bird shots.  I have no problem when using my old 7 d.

  I don't know if it's a question of full frame, my particular copy of the issue of the camera, the combination of the lens and the camera, or something in my configuration, even if I followed a tutorial online to put in place the 5 d Mark III for bird photography.

  Someone at - it experience with this issue?

  I have the 5 d 3 and the 400mm f/5.6 L and often shoot with the combo and I never had problems like yours.  There is one thing, you should check the option called "lens drive when AF impossible" - purple AF4 - make sure that this option is set on WE: continue research development.  Switch off Calera often the update

• Will be 5 d Mark III and T5, T5i and T6i rebel use the same lenses

  I have the 5 d Mark III and some big L series lenses. I'll buy a rebel for my GF to learn photography. My lenses will work for her T5, T5i or T6i?

  Thank you!

  Yes - but it doesn't work the other way around.

  Canon EOS "EF" series lenses (including all your 'L' series lenses) will work on ANY body camera Canon EOS Digital or analogue, and regardless of whether a digital camera has a sensor size full frame (like the 5 d which has a sensor the same size as a 35 mm film negative) or a crop-frame camera (as the series body rebels who use the size of the) sensor 'APS - C' which is a bit smaller.)

  But suppose you get your GF body rebel... it'll come with a "kit" lens (usually this kit lens is the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II or EF - S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM).  But that goal is an EF-S lens.  The image that projects of the lens in the camera body is large enough to fill the surface of the sensor to a corner to for an APS - C sensor... but it is NOT an image large enough to cover the size of a sensor full-frame corner.  Advantage of the EF-S-objectives, is that they can produce a high quality image that does not need more large than an EF lens, and because of this, they are able to reduce the manufacturing cost of the lens and THIS means that the lens can be offered at a lower price than the somewhat similar focal ranges EF lenses.

  These objectives EF-S can be used on any digital camera Canon EOS which has a sensor size 'APS - C' (any body of the rebel, also all the 20 d with 70 d series), as well as the 7 d bodies but may not be used on any body of the camera which uses a larger sensor (any body standard standard 6 d or 1 d 5 d requires "EF" lenses).

  Specialty lenses like the tilt-shift (TS-E) and the extreme (MP-E) macrophoto lens can be used on any EOS body (just like the objectives EF.)

• 5 d mark iii does not

  Hello:

  Location:

  5 D Mark iii is partially insensitive.

  Background:

  I was in the landscape and île Royale last week shooting of wildlife.  The morning before leaving, I turned a family of ducks.  My 32 GB SanDisk Exstreme Pro CF card was almost full, but the backup on a 16 GB SanDisk SD Ultra, Bay 2, SD card was empty.  I have the camera set up to automatically change the map when the CF card is full.  I've been waiting for the camera to switch automatically, but it didn't.  Instead, he remained on the Bay of 1.  In addition, the camera became partially unsponsive.  More precisely:

  -The quick selection handle does not work

  -Occasionally, the main display does not work (can not see the menus, the quick control button does not activate the quick control screen, can't see the images, etc..)  Sometimes, however, the screen seems to work.  I can't constantly repeat this condition.

  -When I cut the power, the status LCD screen occasionally remains steady.  Of course, if I pull the battery, it turns off

  -I can not activate the mode direct viiew (which I do ever - just comment as an additional symptom)

  I tried to change the cards, batteries, etc., but the problem remains.

  Before the show, the camera has been flawless.

  In addition, please note that the camera took a fall about 4 days earlier when mounted on a tripod.  However, after the fall, the device worked flawlessly until the problem above occurred.  In addition, it is a kayak trip, and there was water occasional droplet exposure all paddling pool (nothing more than equivalent of droplets of rain drops).  The camera was not submergerged and was not exposed to excessive water.  I tried to 'dry' allowing him to sit in the Sun for a while.  I noticed some condensation in the status LCD display, but it is quickly dissipated.  Despite this, the State remains.  I doubt that exposure to water is linked to the issue.

  Also of note, the same cards have been widely used in the past without problem.  In addition, the camera went previously bays as expected in the condition that the CF card in Bay 1 is full.

  Any ideas?

  Thank you.

  Yes, indeed.  It's the most likely explanation.  I was hoping (stupid, I realize) that someone out there has information on a known error/bug dealing with issues of the card.  Disappointing.  However, I take comfort in feeling lucky enough to have the failure occur at the end of the excursion, hours before leaving.  Glad I could get those shots killer of loons, ducks, otters, beavers, moose, etc...

  In it goes...

  T.

• Palican deal for a Canon 5 d mark iii

  Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for a Hark Palican deal for a canon 5 D Mark iii. I also want to keep a 70-200mm L f/4 series and a 17-40 mm with her L series lens.  Thank you

  It is. You've been a great help and I think I'll go with 1450.

• 5 D Mark III video problem - need help!

  Hello

  Been using my 5 d Mark III for video for about a month now. I noticed a problem occurring in the middle of some plans where the color seems to pass. The problem is so weak that it will take full screen, full HD and a high level of concentration to detect. In my opinion, the most obvious presence is 28 seconds where the valley below suddenly takes a different color. Here is a video of my question: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw9IHYkUEqQ

  I performed these parameters:

  Manual focus

  Opening, ISO: Manually set

  Shutter speed: 1/50

  1920 x 1080 EVERYTHING I have 24 p

  Photo Style: faithful

  Custom white balance

  Auto Lighting Optimizer: OFF

  Highlight priority: OFF

  Speed High ISO NR: OFF

  I tried to see if they were detectable on the LCD on the camera, but to the naked eye, they are not. The original. Show them the MOV files that were transferred from the camera.

  Maybe that Chromatic Aberration or the peripheral illumination Correction? I did not disable these, and they are the only automatic settings I can think that would change Mid-shot.

  In my view, what ISO was set at 100 for these plans.

  Any ideas what could be causing this? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

  Thank you

  Max

  I tested it on multiple devices, and it seems that there is a problem with my primary monitor. I will definitely test it next time I have a problem on multiple devices. Thanks for all the help!

• The objectives of my 80 d canon fit the canon 5 d mark III?

  I would buy canon 5 d mark III, the objectives of my 80 d canon fit the canon 5 d mark III?

  CANON2 wrote:

  I would buy canon 5 d mark III, the objectives of my 80 d canon fit the canon 5 d mark III?

  If the lenses are EF-S lenses, no. If they are objective EF (without the "-s"), then Yes.

  Note that any lens will have a wide field of vision more on a 3 out of 5 that he will be with the same zoom on a 80 d value at each stage of its zoom range,