5 new noise of 1 d Mark III everywhere

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• Corrupted images captured new 5 d Mark III

  Hello

  I had two images corrupted during the shoot with my new 5 d Mark III... I used 45mbps sandisk extreme SD card and the mode was only to JPEG (fine). After obtaining two corrupted images I shoot 1 k images but no problem after... Later, I copied these images in my HARD drive except two all corrupted images are looked nice... My question is what was the real problem? Thank you in advance...

  I would advise at least do a quick format in camera each time you insert a memory card (or just after download) If you use the USB cable to transfer your images.

  The format in camera prepares the memory card for use, configure it with certain structures of necessary files and writing about the old files.

  If you never format in the computer, always re - format in your camera before shooting. It is possible that the computer will not configure the card in a way that will work correctly in the camera.

  Usually corrupt images are due to map or connectivity problem when downloading. If you see corruption in the camera, so I suspect the card first (it is defective, it is misconfigured or something out there is the cause of a conflict).

  I damaged once a number of images on a Compact Flash opening memory card door and pulling the card too quickly, while the last image or both was still written. It damaged about 1/3 of the images on the card, not only the last of them taken. Initially all the images on the map were illegible, until I ran a recovery program. Who has been able to repair about 2/3 of the images to about 200 to 300 images, if I remember correctly.

  The issue of corruption worse than I had (in ten years digital shooting almost exclusively, nearly 20 years ago, some digital shooting), was because of connectivity issues. I had a card reader connected to a USB hub. He took off the hub and plugged directly into the USB port of the computer and the problem was solved.

  It is possible, but rare enough that the camera itself is causing occasional corrupted files. Usually the camera begins to shake the corrupted files, if most or all of the images... not just an occasional. I keep an eye on it and if it continues to happen, first try a different memory card. If it continues to happen with another card, the camera is looking at.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• I can't read raw files on LR3 for my new canon 5 d Mark iii.

  I just bought a new canon 5 d markiii and when I tried to upload photos in LR3, I can't display them. seems that I need to upgrade or something but I do not know what version or plug or update I have to do to see them. any advice?

  Hi kimeree13,

  Raw files from Canon 5 d mark III would not be supported in Lightroom 3.

  You need at least version 4.1 of Lightroom to access there raw files.

  Here's the reference article: supported by Camera Raw devices

  You can either upgrade the version of Lightroom to a newer version or you can install for free DBG Converter to convert raw to DNG files and access then in Lightroom.

  Kind regards

  Claes

• Help! cannot open raw files in photoshop worm 12.1 - new 5 d mark iii camera

  I have photoshop creative suite version 12.1 - just bought a new mark iii camera and my raw files won't open in my version of photoshop... What can I do?

  You need to ACR 6.7 or 7.1

• Updated Canon 5 d Mark II to the new Mark III - cannot open RAW files

  Upgraded from a Canon 5 d Mark II to the new Mark III - failed to open the RAW files of the Mark III

  Canon 5 d Mark III isn't a device supported right now.

  For more information, see Camera Raw plugin | Compatible cameras

• Looking to buy a 5 d Mark III

  I'm looking on the 5 d mark III to my mulTIROTor.  In video mode, the focus can be set to infinity?  is it a camera or a lens option? Suggestions?

  Back to canon.  Former user of Nikon, but my new drive shaft does not my Nikon.

  Thank you

  clint6998 wrote:
  On the auto-focus, full time, it is smooth or jumpy? My Nikon's passing in and out before settling on a focal point, so I have to always focus manually.

  On my 7 d Mark II, video AF is fairly smooth except that it made a lot of noises annoying rattling on my non - STM lenses.  I read that the STM (stepper motor) lenses solves the problem, but I have nothing to test.

• 5 D Mark iii

  I'm a new 5 5 d Mark iii owner.   I am wanting to get good shots of my nephew play basketball.  Any suggestions on preferred to get clear shots.  Thank you!

  Here is a description of how to get your camera in a mode where it is optimized for basketball.  But before you go shoot a... practice game get all these settings dialed in and go do some shooting test for you ensure that you are comfortable with the way it all works.  If you want to learn the game you might lack-shots more simply because you are not yet used to the works of the camera when shooting sports.

  IS owning an EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM II will certainly help (if you do not have the one of them already, put it on your wish list.  Everyone has this lens... or wants this goal.  It is not even of importance if you pull the sport - it is the goal of goto used by a lot of wedding and portrait photographers, and it is also the goal for indoor sports such as basketball.)  I have the original (version I) of this lens and it is the lens that lives on my camera all the time.

  You probably want to use mode AF 6 cases (this is the recommended Canon for basketball - auto focus tracking mode although they also offer 4 cases).

  Since you specifically want to follow your nephew and do not pull on any player, you might want to settle out of the 'sensibility' - this features determines how much the camera prefer to stick to a single topic vs pass and start tracking on a different topic.  The default value of the 6A box followed the sensitivity in the Middle at the level of the marker "0".    If you want the camera to stick to your subject and not be so willing to move to a new topic then you might want to disable tune elsewhere up to-1.   To do this:

  1. Press MENU
  2. Go to page 1 (of 5 possible pages of AF settings in the system menu) FA
  3. Access to the rear of select respectively 6 (the last case on the list), then press the SET button to select.
  4. Press RATE button to allow a custom setting.
  5. Use the back line to select "Tracking Sensitivity" (top choice - it can be highlighted by default because it is the first choice) and press SET to select.
  6. Use the rear wheel - and turn it in the opposite direction with a click to '-1' (to facilitate your stay ' locked on ' more 'reactive' - sensitive would cause him to jumpt to a new material more easily).  Press SET to lock in this change.
  7. Press MENU repeatedly to exit the menu system.

  Then activate the "AI Servo" - the default mode is the mode of the development of 'One Shot'.  In One Shot mode, the camera will activate focus when you half-press the shutter button... but once he realizes the development on a topic, the system turns off and await you take the picture.  Unfortunately in the sport, that your subjects are constantly in motion... so if you take this shot the camera focus on the place where the player USED TO BE and not where they are now.

  When you use the "AI Servo" mode, the camera will continuously follow focus so that the player moves.

  Press the 'AF-Drive' button on top of the camera.

  Use the front dial to mode selection "HAVE Servo".

  Use the back line to select "high-speed" burst (it looks like a stack of 3 rectangles with an 'H' beside it.)

  Then, put the camera in the correct AF point selection mode.

  Press the button of the AF point selection.  It is the button in the extreme upper right corner on the back.  The icon looks like a rectangle with a pattern of cross in the shape of points in there (these are intended to resemble talking points.)

  When the AF point selection menu is displayed on the back of the camera, press the M - Fn button (next to the shutter button on the top front of the camera) and this will cause its making scroll all the AF point selection modes available.  Mode "Auto selection: 61 pt AF" (which means the camera can use ANY point he wants.

  One caveat... If for some reason you cannot take this mode... There is a menu that allows you to toggle modes.  If there is a way you think that you'd never use (some photographers simply toggle between two modes favorite all the time), you can turn off the ones you don't use.  If you have done this, then the mode you use could be disabled and you will need to reactivate this mode.)

  NOW you are ready to shoot... but there are two caveats more you need to know.

  #1 when you use the update of "AI Servo" mode, the unit also uses a behavior called "release priority".  Normally, your camera is in 'One Shot mode "that uses"Priority Focus"and that means that the camera will not take a shot until it can confirm a focus lock.  But in "Release priority" behavior the camera WILL TAKE the shot as SOON as you press the shutter button (shutter reelease) all down... and they're going to do it whether OR NOT IT WAS CENTERED!  If you need to make sure that the device locked focus and keeps track of your subject before press you the button completely or you will get just a lot of blurry photos.

  #2--while the camera CAN use a 61 point AF in this mode... you will notice that when you put the viewfinder of the camera to your eye and half-press the shutter release button that you do not see a point AF (black square).  This is the point where the camera guess he'll START tracking your subject.  But since you have an automatic case followed enabled, it will "follow" your subject moving.  If you lose the subject, you must give this starting point on your topic to gain focus again on them.    BTW, you can choose any desired starting point.  As you look through the viewfinder, place your thumb on the browser of 8 channels (the small joystick controlled by your thumb just above the line back) and you will see you can rock up, down, left, right, etc. and the black square will go where you want (well... one of the 61 points AF.)

  Don't be afraid to crank the ISO... the 5 d III can take it.  I think nothing of shooting at ISO 3200 and 6400 ISO same... While there is a bit of noise at ISO 6400, it is EASILY treated in post processing because it's going to be noise rather moderate.

  Since you want to freeze action (you won't see the motion blur on your subjects) you'll want to keep the high shutter speed.

  1/500th sec is generally fast enough to freeze most of the topics, but you might see * some * blur of movement at that speed... He sneak a little higher upward will be useful (e.g. 1/800th or even 1/1000th).

  I second the recommendation to pull using Tv mode and set the shutter speed to 1/800th and use Auto ISO.   But... check the menu system for camera red page 2 (camera red tab... page 2 of 4 possible pages).  There is a 'ISO speed settings' option in this menu.  Please select this option and check "Auto ISO range".  I think it will be set to '100-12800' by default and that's fine.  But it is possible to reduce it... photographers who never want to shoot any ISO above at some point (for example assume that you never leave the Auto ISO to choose a frame above 1600) could set it to a low value that is too high for your interior lighting of basketball.   Just make sure that the camera is not permitted to mount the ISO when it should.

  Adobe Lightroom has an option of noise reduction very good (which is strange because the noise reduction in Photoshop is a dismal failure.  If you use Photoshop full I rely on a plugin noise reduction called 'Noiseware Pro' by Imagenomic.)

  Finally, there is an option called "button"return"focus" which like a lot of sports photographers.  It's practically a necessity before Canon started producing cameras with their new RIR system (it's tracking system smart topics to follow.).  The problem with old cameras was that in order to take a (full press the shutter button) you have to half press the shutter and focus WHICH triggered.  So if you follow an athlete and someone else gets in the way, the focus system normally developed to this distracting subject and not the subject.    So they released a feature called back focus button, which sets the focus to a "back" button (by default, this is the AF-ON button on a 5 d III, but it can be reassigned.)  This allows to take focus on the shutter button (half-pressing the shutter button will be 'meter' but won't focus.  A full press will still take the hit, but to focus the camera, you press the AF-ON button).  This allows you to keep an eye on distractions and take your thumb on the AF-ON button (if the camera stops the update from the update) until the distraction gets out of the frame and then you can continue to focus on your subject again.    You CAN activate this feautre if you wish (it is disabled by default).  It grows some nuts people... but some people who stick with it and get used to shoot ever sport otherwise.

• Focusing with 5 d Mark III problem

  I use my relatively new 5 d Mark III with my old lens 400mm 5.6 for bird photography.  Often, he will not grab the focus.  I have to more closely before manual focus it focuses.  It doesn't seem to matter which distance setting I use on the lens.

  So I'm missing quite a few bird shots.  I have no problem when using my old 7 d.

  I don't know if it's a question of full frame, my particular copy of the issue of the camera, the combination of the lens and the camera, or something in my configuration, even if I followed a tutorial online to put in place the 5 d Mark III for bird photography.

  Someone at - it experience with this issue?

  I have the 5 d 3 and the 400mm f/5.6 L and often shoot with the combo and I never had problems like yours.  There is one thing, you should check the option called "lens drive when AF impossible" - purple AF4 - make sure that this option is set on WE: continue research development.  Switch off Calera often the update

• Back button with a focus for 5 d Mark III. How do I put in place?

  How can I configure button back focusing on my new 5 d Mark III.  Can not find the instructions manual supplied Canon or third book.

  http://www.courtneysargent.com/for-photographers-setting-up-back-button-focus-on-the-5d-Mark-III/

• Import error Canon EOS 5 d Mark III

  Error importing for Canon EOS 5 d Mark III - selection of import and copy as DNG, saving as of 2016 by date - great worked earlier as yesterday at 23:00. Today, I was unable to import all of my studio work today.

  Find the camera, starts automatically check files not imported, will allow me to add keywords, will still save the keywords after the closed will, give the message import files..., to even show that the copy and import photos seeks to work with the line measuring at the top near the logo LR - but will freeze and not move or import a single photo. No parameters have been changed and there is plenty of room. Using iMac with new operating system. Can you help me? I really need to turn around this work.

  Big thank you.

  Daphne

  Thank you!

  Card reader worked like a charm!

  Thank you very much.

• How to import first lines of the Canon 5 d Mark III in PSE12? [was: cr2]

  I have Photoshop elements 12 and I can't import Canon 5 d Mark III CR2 files.

  Not sure what you mean by the sight of the pictures?  They appear in the dialog box camera raw when you choose a CR2 file in the expert mode menu:

  File > open

  What computer and operating system are you using?

  Can you try a few new shooting CR2 files and then place them in a folder on your hard drive rather than on the external hard drive. You can import from this site using the menu of the Organizer:

  File > Get photos & videos > files & folders

• camera raw 6.7 need so I can open my 5 d mark iii Canon CR2 files

  I buy PS CS5 and says that my camera is compatible and it won't open the CR2 files camera raw to my canon 5 d Mark iii camera. I have used in the past and the highest ranking my hard drive for MAC OS x 10.9, bought new PS CS5 and Adobe will not update the Camera Raw 6 to 6.7 that using my files...

  Hi , redtulips54,

  There you go. Download the one you need, depending on your operating system.

  Adobe - Adobe Camera Raw and DNG Converter: for Windows: Camera Raw 6.7.1 update

  Adobe - Adobe Camera Raw and DNG Converter: for Macintosh: Camera Raw 6.7.1 update

  Hope that helps.

  See you soon!

  ~ David

• Peuvent Premiere Pro intelligent rendering of a Canon 5 d mark III images?

  I've read that Premiere Pro can smart restore some codecs. But I want to know exactly: he's smart can make the video from a Canon 5 d mark III?

  In the case rendered intelligent is not very precise: I wonder if it can export the images after the Cup without rencoding it by simply registering the individual images in a new video container with the same codec. This should increase the time to export much.

  I ask because I have Premiere Elements and this feature would be the only reason for me to upgrade to the Pro. I currently have needed 40 Minutes to restore the 10 Minutes. As a journalist, I need to be faster.

  Hi jasonts,.

  Sorry, QuickTime H.264 files have no intelligent rendering capability. Smart rendering capability is only available for some formats. I wrote a blog about it here: nd-later http://blogs.adobe.com/kevinmonahan/2012/10/11/smart-rendering-in-premiere-pro-cs6-6-0-1-a /

  Note the codecs that have the ability of smart rendering in first Pro CC have been added in the original post.

  Thank you

  Kevin

• Why aren't my. Files RAW CR2 opening in elements of my Canon Mark III 5 d 9.0?

  I'm really confused as to why my old Canon Rebel CR2 (RAW) files always open elements 9.0, but now my new camera RAW (Canon Mark III 5 d) files do not open? Thank you!

  You have two options:

  (1) upgrade to PES 11. (2) DOWNLOAD and install the free Adobe DNG converter to convert your raw files to the universal Raw format files and Adobe will open in all versions of PSE (keep your originals as backups and for uses in the software of the camera factory)

  Windows download Click DNG Converter 7.3

  Mac download click DNG Converter 7.3

  You can convert an entire folder of images raw with a single click. See this quick video tutorial:

  You Tube click here for the DNG Converter tutorial

• Will be Canon 5 d Mark III Raw files work with Lightroom 3

  I just tried to download the Raw files from a Canon 5 d Mark III to Lightroom 3.  The file have not been recognized.  According to me, there were a few problems update, but my Lightroom 3 is updated.  I need Lightroom 4?  I need to know that I have a meeting tomorrow and will go back to my Mrk II if I can't get an update of Lightroom 3 emergency.

  Title of the message was edited by: Brett N

  The latest version of LR3 has been updated in last December, and the 5D.3 is more recent than that, then Yes you need LR4.

  You can download the trial LR4 (or just the update 4.1 www.adobe.come/downloads/updates/ LR) and have 30 days before you need to purchase and enter a serial number.

  The other choice is to use the 7.1 to DNG Converter that knows your new camera, but allows the converted DNG open in LR3.