70-200 F2.8 IS USM III?

Similar Questions

• What equipment for rent for a cruise to Alaska, with an excursion to the National Park of Katmai

  We expect a cruisetour in Alaska to summer 2014. I was wondering what material would be preferable to rent for the trip. I'm at best a total frame when it comes to photography. We go to the Chio for seven days and then go to the National Park of Danel and also to the National Park of Katmai. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Thank you. George

  Alaska is a rich state of target to fire a few shots really breathtaking.  But, be careful.  YOU will not be at the top of the food chain.  This place is firmly fixed by the polar bear.  You don't want to get closer to these guys here.  If you go for bears, considered a long lens you can get.  The absolute minimum would be a 100-400mm zoom.  In Alaska, is also home to some very large Grizzly, these guys is not outdone either.  For the beautiful panaramas you can invest in a goal of ultra wide angle, like the EF-S 10-22 mm.  There is no, but you can get some photos wide-angle breathtaking from the faithful tripod.  In addition, the 10-22 gets rave reviews of the quality of the image of some of the major reviewers, Ken Rockwell, give quality control 'L '.  I wouldn't spend the extra money on a 70-200 f2.8L IS USM EF.  It is a big heavy lens.  But I would opt for the EF 70-200 f4L IS USM, it is much lighter and a IS good and easy to sling autour on Eagles.  You can't mention what you have now the lenses, but a good mid-range telephoto would be good to have for the trip.  Pictures taken from the cruise ship should be held in the hand, due to the vibration of the ship will pass through on the tripod.  So, no matter what lens you shoot with the ship should have IS, otherwise you will have to perhaps up your ISO to 1000 or more and shoot at a high shutter speed to prevent motion blur.  This mid-range telephoto, you want to watch may be the EF 24-105 f4L IS USM or EF 24-70 f4L IS USM, two are at a reasonable price and quality Canon L lenses.  These lenses, I have proposed will satisfy all your needs for your trip, with the highest quality for your camera lenses.  I suggest that buy you a 7 d renovated to upgrade your camera body.  The 7 d is the best device of wildlife available now.  You can get one from Adorama, now on a special renovated cannon.  You can also buy the renovated Adorama and B & H and even lenses used from KEH and save a good sum of money.

  Enjoy your trip.

• EF 75-300mm f/4-5. 6 III USM

  Do I need a tripod to take action shots with this lens for my camera T3I?

  Probably not. More details would help, but action requires high shutter speeds and generally good panning skills.

• Canon lens EF 70-200mm L F4 USM + 2 X L series extender

  Hi, I have a Canon lens EF 70-200mm L F4 USM. Now, I want to buy an extension of series X L 2. Can someone help me by informing that AF can work with EF 70-200mm L USM F4 + 2 X Extender mounted on 650 d device and how much image quality I have to make compromises for the same thing.

  mithun_pal129 wrote:

  Thank you all for your valuable comments. I forgot to mention that my intension of extender to my EF 70-200mm L F4 USM in a telephoto lens for wildlife / birds. But now that I'm your stay in Abu Dhabi, he is not paid a lot of bird / wild life. This is why I don't want to spend a lot on super telephoto, and personally, I don't want to go to cheap Sigma lens. So I wanted to do objective 70-200mm + 2 Expander x 140-400 mm. As I myself feel 1.4 X extender is pretty good, but it will give me up to 280mm. I know that's not very good lens for bird / wild raise photography. But you want to know still is feasible or if I use 2 x Extender to make the 400mm autofocus lens is required for the wild life or manual focus can still operate at F8. I don't have a lot of experience in the photography of wild life that's why I wanted to know things.

  In a Word... N °

  Of a 2 X teleconverter on a 70-200/4 made for a lens of 140-400/8 "effective." Due to the reduction of light reaching the AF sensors, your camera will turn off autofocus. A stronger 2 X also "costs" more loss of quality of the image due to the deterioration.

  It is possible to tape on some of the electronic contacts on the focal length multiplier, so that the camera does not know it is there and always try to auto focus. However, the autofocus will be much slower and will tend to hunt much more.

  In some situations, you may be able to manually update. However, effective f8 makes for a pretty weak sight, most cameras update automatic modern as you do not have some fo the features allowing the development manual, vintage cameras designed for the manual focus had in the past. Some people change to one-third of frosted glass to add functionality to support manual focus (split finder image, micro diaprisms, for example). However this requires careful work to install the screen and the display of different can affect precision measurement of the camera, especially in the incorrect Spot metering.

  Addition of a lower 1.4 X teleconverter makes your lens in effect 112-280mm f5.6, who will still be updated with auto focus and will be much less loss of image quality, but not as much 'reach. If yours is a goal IS, it can reasonably be handholdable. If it is not a goal IS, you will need to watch your shutter speeds than blur carefully, probably should keep to 1/500 or more quickly to avoid the camera. Or use a tripod, as suggested by ebibgs, or at least a monopod. You also need to limit the autofocus on your camera to the central AF point only, I think.

  ebiggs1 wrote:

  On your camera, the 70-200mm f4 is like a 112-320mm f4.  With a converter 1. 4 x, looking at 448mm f5.6 and th elong end.  + 400 mm should be long enough for you to get photos of some birds.  BTW, use a tripod.

  While it is technically correct, citing the "crop camera lens factor" in this way may not help much, can be confusing.

  The original poster has simply a 70-200mm lens which they are accustomed to using on a crop sensor camera. They would now like to double the range of this lens on their camera. Crop sensor lens incorporating conversation factor is very useful when the user goes from frame of film/full to reframe the camera or vice versa. For someone who has never used a film camera or has not used one for many years and is now completely accustomed to how behaves a lens of focal length on their device to harvest, it is a completely moot point.

  But what he's basically saying that while you can add a 2 X, it is probably not a good idea for several reasons. Auto focus will work or not, with a few tips, won't work only weakly. Manual focus will be difficult. And the picture quality might take too big a hit, combining a 2 X with your goal. .

  I have a 70-200/4 IS, 70-200/2.8 IS ("Mark I"), 1. 4 X II and 2 X Teleconverters II. I also have long telephoto lenses, so rarely need to add these zooms teleconverter. However if necessary I would use 1.4 X on one of them. But even if AF still work on the 70-200/2.8 + 2 X combo, I won't use it because of the amount of loss of image quality (the most recent IS of 70 - 200/2.8 Mark II and 2 X Mark III are supposed to work together better, than my older versions of each).

  I use mostly 2 X on 300/2.8 and 500/4 lenses privileged where the image quality is still good. (Note: Yes, on some of my cameras 2 X 500/4 causes AF to stop working, as it would on your f4 lens, so I only use the combo on a limited basis.)

  mithun_pal129... I would say the more you get a 1. 4 X and use it with your goal. See if the image quality is to your expectations. Then work to get closer to your subjects. Or bring them closer to you. Practice the techniques of stalking and to study the behaviors of your subjects to discover ways to get closer. Work in a blind and use bait (food, calls). And start saving for a lens of longer focal length.

  The Canon 1.4 X II and III teleconverters are excellent. All Canon teleconverters have mated before elements that limit the lenses that they physically can be attached, but the 70-200 are among those where this is possible. Teleconverter Kenko is another that I see quite often recommended. They have two different levels of quality: a more expensive "Pro 300" version and a cheaper "MC - 4". These are currently offered in versions "DGX" whose operation is very similar to Canon teleconverters. Old Kenko teleconverters "DG" not "reported" to the camera, the camera didn't know they were there, so try to focus.  In the view of users and tests I've seen, the current Kenko Pro 300 DGX is pretty good overall of the entire image area. The MC - 4 cheaper is actually a little sharper in the Center, but not as strong in the corners and the edges of the image. Tamron and Sigma teleconverters also do, but I have little experience or knowledge of the current versions of the people.

  The wildlife/bird photography is not easy. Since no matter how long a goal that you have, there are times when the subjects are just out of reach and all you can go is to sit back and enjoy the show.

  These photos of small subjects with different, but close to or less than the effective focal length even lenses like your 70-200 mm + a 1. 4 X teleconverter would be on your camera...

  

  

  

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• mk III battery life

  I just bought a new 5 d Mark III and there seem to be separate problems 3 so far. I was wondering if anyone else has had, and if they are related in any way?

  1 (real gun) batteries do not last. A day of shooting in an almost non-stop event, I had 950 shots. Yesterday, after only 70 shots and 20 minutes in the overview screen changign parameters, battery fell to 38% of load. When I go out, and the camera is left pending, (auto shut off after 1 minute) the batteries just seem to fade.

  2. I tried micro adjust my 3 lenses in the camera, but microphone set does seem to have no effect at all. I tried the 100mm macro, the 17-40 L and 70-200 Mk II L right setting to-20 and + 20 just has no effect on any of the lenses. I even tried with a new battery just in case.
  I also tried different lengths of a zoom and openings with the lenses, nothing helps.

  3. the last thing is counting is nuts. I've owned the 5 d classic and Mk II and I only had to repair that you expect to have to dress shadows, white etc etc. But I find that I am constantly compensate with this and more to expose as much as 2 and 2/3 stops to get the correct exposure.

  There is another weird thing. When I bought this new he 1021 on shutter actuations. I too thought about both, assuming that it might be the test or something. Has anyone else had a camera with so many shutter actuations?

  I found a few threads where people have done a factory reset and it solved their problem of exposure, he did nothing for mine.

  Then... I am open to ideas and grateful for any thoughts.

  Yes, I return it yesterday. A new camera, 3500 dollars, should be perfect.

  Autonomy is very good, as being as good as your old Mk II.

• 5 D Mark iii

  I'm a new 5 5 d Mark iii owner.   I am wanting to get good shots of my nephew play basketball.  Any suggestions on preferred to get clear shots.  Thank you!

  Here is a description of how to get your camera in a mode where it is optimized for basketball.  But before you go shoot a... practice game get all these settings dialed in and go do some shooting test for you ensure that you are comfortable with the way it all works.  If you want to learn the game you might lack-shots more simply because you are not yet used to the works of the camera when shooting sports.

  IS owning an EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM II will certainly help (if you do not have the one of them already, put it on your wish list.  Everyone has this lens... or wants this goal.  It is not even of importance if you pull the sport - it is the goal of goto used by a lot of wedding and portrait photographers, and it is also the goal for indoor sports such as basketball.)  I have the original (version I) of this lens and it is the lens that lives on my camera all the time.

  You probably want to use mode AF 6 cases (this is the recommended Canon for basketball - auto focus tracking mode although they also offer 4 cases).

  Since you specifically want to follow your nephew and do not pull on any player, you might want to settle out of the 'sensibility' - this features determines how much the camera prefer to stick to a single topic vs pass and start tracking on a different topic.  The default value of the 6A box followed the sensitivity in the Middle at the level of the marker "0".    If you want the camera to stick to your subject and not be so willing to move to a new topic then you might want to disable tune elsewhere up to-1.   To do this:

  1. Press MENU
  2. Go to page 1 (of 5 possible pages of AF settings in the system menu) FA
  3. Access to the rear of select respectively 6 (the last case on the list), then press the SET button to select.
  4. Press RATE button to allow a custom setting.
  5. Use the back line to select "Tracking Sensitivity" (top choice - it can be highlighted by default because it is the first choice) and press SET to select.
  6. Use the rear wheel - and turn it in the opposite direction with a click to '-1' (to facilitate your stay ' locked on ' more 'reactive' - sensitive would cause him to jumpt to a new material more easily).  Press SET to lock in this change.
  7. Press MENU repeatedly to exit the menu system.

  Then activate the "AI Servo" - the default mode is the mode of the development of 'One Shot'.  In One Shot mode, the camera will activate focus when you half-press the shutter button... but once he realizes the development on a topic, the system turns off and await you take the picture.  Unfortunately in the sport, that your subjects are constantly in motion... so if you take this shot the camera focus on the place where the player USED TO BE and not where they are now.

  When you use the "AI Servo" mode, the camera will continuously follow focus so that the player moves.

  Press the 'AF-Drive' button on top of the camera.

  Use the front dial to mode selection "HAVE Servo".

  Use the back line to select "high-speed" burst (it looks like a stack of 3 rectangles with an 'H' beside it.)

  Then, put the camera in the correct AF point selection mode.

  Press the button of the AF point selection.  It is the button in the extreme upper right corner on the back.  The icon looks like a rectangle with a pattern of cross in the shape of points in there (these are intended to resemble talking points.)

  When the AF point selection menu is displayed on the back of the camera, press the M - Fn button (next to the shutter button on the top front of the camera) and this will cause its making scroll all the AF point selection modes available.  Mode "Auto selection: 61 pt AF" (which means the camera can use ANY point he wants.

  One caveat... If for some reason you cannot take this mode... There is a menu that allows you to toggle modes.  If there is a way you think that you'd never use (some photographers simply toggle between two modes favorite all the time), you can turn off the ones you don't use.  If you have done this, then the mode you use could be disabled and you will need to reactivate this mode.)

  NOW you are ready to shoot... but there are two caveats more you need to know.

  #1 when you use the update of "AI Servo" mode, the unit also uses a behavior called "release priority".  Normally, your camera is in 'One Shot mode "that uses"Priority Focus"and that means that the camera will not take a shot until it can confirm a focus lock.  But in "Release priority" behavior the camera WILL TAKE the shot as SOON as you press the shutter button (shutter reelease) all down... and they're going to do it whether OR NOT IT WAS CENTERED!  If you need to make sure that the device locked focus and keeps track of your subject before press you the button completely or you will get just a lot of blurry photos.

  #2--while the camera CAN use a 61 point AF in this mode... you will notice that when you put the viewfinder of the camera to your eye and half-press the shutter release button that you do not see a point AF (black square).  This is the point where the camera guess he'll START tracking your subject.  But since you have an automatic case followed enabled, it will "follow" your subject moving.  If you lose the subject, you must give this starting point on your topic to gain focus again on them.    BTW, you can choose any desired starting point.  As you look through the viewfinder, place your thumb on the browser of 8 channels (the small joystick controlled by your thumb just above the line back) and you will see you can rock up, down, left, right, etc. and the black square will go where you want (well... one of the 61 points AF.)

  Don't be afraid to crank the ISO... the 5 d III can take it.  I think nothing of shooting at ISO 3200 and 6400 ISO same... While there is a bit of noise at ISO 6400, it is EASILY treated in post processing because it's going to be noise rather moderate.

  Since you want to freeze action (you won't see the motion blur on your subjects) you'll want to keep the high shutter speed.

  1/500th sec is generally fast enough to freeze most of the topics, but you might see * some * blur of movement at that speed... He sneak a little higher upward will be useful (e.g. 1/800th or even 1/1000th).

  I second the recommendation to pull using Tv mode and set the shutter speed to 1/800th and use Auto ISO.   But... check the menu system for camera red page 2 (camera red tab... page 2 of 4 possible pages).  There is a 'ISO speed settings' option in this menu.  Please select this option and check "Auto ISO range".  I think it will be set to '100-12800' by default and that's fine.  But it is possible to reduce it... photographers who never want to shoot any ISO above at some point (for example assume that you never leave the Auto ISO to choose a frame above 1600) could set it to a low value that is too high for your interior lighting of basketball.   Just make sure that the camera is not permitted to mount the ISO when it should.

  Adobe Lightroom has an option of noise reduction very good (which is strange because the noise reduction in Photoshop is a dismal failure.  If you use Photoshop full I rely on a plugin noise reduction called 'Noiseware Pro' by Imagenomic.)

  Finally, there is an option called "button"return"focus" which like a lot of sports photographers.  It's practically a necessity before Canon started producing cameras with their new RIR system (it's tracking system smart topics to follow.).  The problem with old cameras was that in order to take a (full press the shutter button) you have to half press the shutter and focus WHICH triggered.  So if you follow an athlete and someone else gets in the way, the focus system normally developed to this distracting subject and not the subject.    So they released a feature called back focus button, which sets the focus to a "back" button (by default, this is the AF-ON button on a 5 d III, but it can be reassigned.)  This allows to take focus on the shutter button (half-pressing the shutter button will be 'meter' but won't focus.  A full press will still take the hit, but to focus the camera, you press the AF-ON button).  This allows you to keep an eye on distractions and take your thumb on the AF-ON button (if the camera stops the update from the update) until the distraction gets out of the frame and then you can continue to focus on your subject again.    You CAN activate this feautre if you wish (it is disabled by default).  It grows some nuts people... but some people who stick with it and get used to shoot ever sport otherwise.

• Corrupted images captured new 5 d Mark III

  Hello

  I had two images corrupted during the shoot with my new 5 d Mark III... I used 45mbps sandisk extreme SD card and the mode was only to JPEG (fine). After obtaining two corrupted images I shoot 1 k images but no problem after... Later, I copied these images in my HARD drive except two all corrupted images are looked nice... My question is what was the real problem? Thank you in advance...

  I would advise at least do a quick format in camera each time you insert a memory card (or just after download) If you use the USB cable to transfer your images.

  The format in camera prepares the memory card for use, configure it with certain structures of necessary files and writing about the old files.

  If you never format in the computer, always re - format in your camera before shooting. It is possible that the computer will not configure the card in a way that will work correctly in the camera.

  Usually corrupt images are due to map or connectivity problem when downloading. If you see corruption in the camera, so I suspect the card first (it is defective, it is misconfigured or something out there is the cause of a conflict).

  I damaged once a number of images on a Compact Flash opening memory card door and pulling the card too quickly, while the last image or both was still written. It damaged about 1/3 of the images on the card, not only the last of them taken. Initially all the images on the map were illegible, until I ran a recovery program. Who has been able to repair about 2/3 of the images to about 200 to 300 images, if I remember correctly.

  The issue of corruption worse than I had (in ten years digital shooting almost exclusively, nearly 20 years ago, some digital shooting), was because of connectivity issues. I had a card reader connected to a USB hub. He took off the hub and plugged directly into the USB port of the computer and the problem was solved.

  It is possible, but rare enough that the camera itself is causing occasional corrupted files. Usually the camera begins to shake the corrupted files, if most or all of the images... not just an occasional. I keep an eye on it and if it continues to happen, first try a different memory card. If it continues to happen with another card, the camera is looking at.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• 5 d III can't change the ISO at 100

  I use a 5 d 1 year III. I've never really thought about it, but I guess I couldn't make one ISO less than 200.

  but in looking at exif data in photosì other photographers see ISO 100.

  I thought cool. because that's what I used mainly on the 7 d.

  but I could not change the lower to 200 ISO. moving the wheel ISO is 200 a.

  so I got out of the manual. I know a great idea. follow the directions on ISO settings. and still, no joy. looked online. same directions. same results. I was desperate so had a friend nikon take a look. same results. nothing is less than 200.

  I guess that I'm missing a step somewhere.

  I shoot RAW without jpg.

  RSG

  If you have the rank of high priority your turn, you may not use ISO100. If you RAW, then your highest priority is pretty useless, might as well put out.

• 4.2 LR not to recognize the Canon 5 d MK III files

  I have LR installed 4.2. I just tried to import my D MK III 5 images for the first time and is gave me an error in the camera not recognized (409). From what I see the 5 MK III was supposed to take care of 4.1. The attached strap has set pause 4.2 the native image support? If this isn't the case, someone has installed 4.2 that recognizes the MK III files (last week)? I ran to check updates and he said I had the latest version installed and no update is available.

  Thank you

  Lightroom 4.2 should have no problem recognizing and importing files 5DMk3 Canon. In fact, I imported about 200 such files late last night. So, there's something else with your installation. Have you tried to delete the Lr preferences file? More information, where it is located can be found at http://forums.adobe.com/thread/358041?tstart=0

• code with the card number when signing in appleid, illustrates that am in a town of 200 miles! How to change location?

  When signing into apple id, code number comes with the map that illustrates this am in a town of 200 miles! Why and how change location? to correct a

  You can not. It does not use location Services. It uses your IP address provided by your ISP (ISP). It corresponds to the IP address to the mailing address of your ISP to "locate" you.

• MacBook Pro 13 inch mid 2012 model No. A1278. Has he a player SATA or SATA III. What are its write speeds?

  MacBook Pro 13 inch mid 2012 model No. A1278. Has he a player SATA or SATA III. What are its write speeds?

  The following is from http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i5-2.5-13-mid-2012-unibody-usb3-specs.html

  In addition, the 6 Gb/s it is SATA III

  Standard hard drive:

  500 GB (5400 RPM)

  Int. HD Interface:

  Serial ATA (6 Gb/s)

• "Repair of battery" after 200 cicles (macbook Pro 2011)

  Hi, I have a Macbook Pro from mid-2011 and after around 200 cicles, he says "service battery", but the battery works perfectly well, of course it takes only 2 hours or less because it is already 5 years (and we all know that it is a complete lie that the batteries takes 8 hours - I don't guess if you turn away and look at him without touching a single key).

  In any case... I formatted the computer and reinstalled the OSX and the sign disappeared. But after a few days, it reappeared. I tried to restart the MSC, but nothing has changed.

  I read on some pages, that after a few OSX update, many macbook Pro from this year had the same problem, so that you would to buy a new battery, even when there is nothing wrong with it.

  Any suggestions?

  There is probably something wrong with it, otherwise the system would not report it. Two hours is remarkably short for a good work of this model battery. And besides: battery fault may start to swell and cause serious damage to your Macbook. I don't think not twice before replacing a battery of 5 years.

• Thunderbird has suddenly charge only 200 emails on behalf of yahoo of the year 2011 and nothing else. What's wrong? -Due to problems with Yahoo.

  I use Thunderbird to access 3 e-mail accounts. A few days before, all the emails of one of these missing accounts and now Thunderbird does not charge that 200 emails from this account of the year 2011. News, incoming mail does not appear, and I can't know how to extract or import any emails which are newer than 2011.

  What is your email provider?

• Icons are not displayed properly in Gmail when the zoom level is between 150 and 200%

  Icons in Gmail will not correctly displayed in Firefox at all zoom levels. The problem does not occur in less than 150% zoom levels or levels of zoom to 200% or more. Levels of zoom between (150%) correct icons are not displayed until the mouse passes on their location.

  The attached pictures show screen shots to 140% (OK), 150% (problems shown, before moving the mouse), 150% (problems shown, after moving the mouse), 190% (problems) and 200% (now OK again)

  The problem was not resolved by disabling extensions, go to mode without failure or update Firefox.

  Firefox and extensions/plugins are all fully patched.

  You can try to disable hardware acceleration in Firefox.

  • Tools > Options > advanced > General > Browsing: "use hardware acceleration when available.

  You will need to close and restart Firefox after enabling/disabling this setting.

  • https://support.Mozilla.org/KB/troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes
  • https://support.Mozilla.org/KB/upgrade-graphics-drivers-use-hardware-acceleration

• Why is the 200 GB $44.99 a plan inherited from year more expensive than the monthly plan the new 200 GB $2.99 a month plan ($35,88) - what's the catch here?

  Why is the 200 GB $44.99 a plan inherited from year more expensive than the monthly plan the new 200 GB $2.99 a month plan ($35,88) - what's the catch here? is there a reason why the new plan is less expensive? they are trying to phase out the inheritance plan? is there a difference in storage w the new plan and the legacy for the difference in price (of the problems of the different devices w - computer laptop Mac, iPhone, iPad?)

  The only difference is that it is charged monthly.

  As shown in the following, you may be able to increase your storage space or reduce your costs by opting for the monthly package. Annual storage iCloud - Apple Support plans