80 d in LR6.5 Canon color saturation

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• Color Saturation on computer vs screen TV screen

  I noticed a constant tendency to view my pictures on my computer from a television screen.  The pictures always seem to have the color saturation a lot more on the TV screen on the computer screen.  It is a small frustratiing because I edit my photos to look good on the computer then they look elsewhere over-saturated after have been engraved on a DVD and played on the TV screen.

  Is this something due to the different color profiles used by a TV or a computer screen?

  It is also because of various hue, Saturation, and brightness parameters that you created on your computer screen and the TV screen.

  You can try to use Image of the PES Editor... Convert a color profile to ensure that images are set to "sRGB" and see if that helps...

  Ken

• Black and white with color + Saturation

  I worked in Lightroom 4 on a picture that I took and I just like I want (these adjustments are to increase the saturation on certain colors on the STL tab). Now I'm doing the top half of the image just in black and white, but when I chose the adjustment brush and sturn Saturation to the low top-100 and start going on half top of the picture, some colors (those I turned the Saturation upward on the tab STL) tarnish a bit but will not completely black and white. Someone at - there a way around this?

  If you're just do half a picture, a graduated filter (perhaps several of them stacked) with 100% dlse and pause for a quick transition would work.

  Otherwise you could stack multiple instances of the adjustment brush until you drive all the color on.

  Web-Weaver is correct in noting that is a job best suited for the PS

  

• LR6 Module Development: is my GPU work properly? Color 'flash' and "Live Preview rendering Time" feels long.

  Hello

  I don't know why, but in the Module development in LR6, it feels like excerpts Live are not comparable to those of the speed I expected now with GPU acceleration.

  SEE THIS SCREENGRAB VIDEO: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5840419/lightroom6performance.mp4

  In this overview, pictures that I consult have been seen to all Standard size generated.

  Note: each photo is a Raw Nikon D800 and manipulations have been performed on it (as you can see in the video, many sliders have been used for the photo of grade).

  See what happens:

  -I click on the thumbnail of the photo

  -The large preview appears, slightly desaturated and "fuzzy".

  -a "Flash of Color" appears (the appropriate color saturation appears)

  -then a strong image (in short, as opposed to a soft extract)

  Overall, a process about 4 seconds each time.

  Is this normal?

  I don't understand why.

  And the GPU acceleration is enabled. GTX 670

  I have a descent system very:

  Operating system: Windows 8.1 Business Edition

  Version: 6.3 [9600]

  Application architecture: x 64

  System architecture: x 64

  Number of logical processors: 12

  Processor speed: 3.2 GHz

  Built-in memory: 32707,8 MB

  Real memory for Lightroom: 32707,8 MB

  Real memory used by Lightroom: 2284,0 MB (6.9%)

  Virtual memory used by Lightroom: 2351,0 MB

  Memory cache size: 699,3 MB

  Maximum thread count used by Camera Raw: 6

  Camera Raw SIMD optimization: SSE2, AVX

  System DPI setting: 96 DPI

  Composition of the Bureau enabled: Yes

  Exhibition: 1) 1600 x 1200, 2) 1280 x 1024

  Entry types: Multitouch: no, built-in touch: no, built-in pen: Yes, touch external: no, external pen: Yes, keyboard: No.

  Graphic processor News:

  GeForce GTX 670/PCIe/SSE2

  Check the supported OpenGL: past

  Provider: NVIDIA Corporation

  Version: 3.3.0 NVIDIA 350,12

  Rendering engine: GeForce GTX 670/PCIe/SSE2

  LanguageVersion: 3,30 NVIDIA via the Cg compiler

  Plugins installed:

  (1) Behance

  (2) substantive canon Plugin

  (3) Facebook

  (4) Flickr

  (5) HDR Efex Pro 2

  (6) home Plugin Leica

  (7) attachment Plugin Nikon

  Config.LUA flags: None

  Map #1: Seller: 10de

  Feature: 1189

  Subsystem: 35421458

  Revision: a1

  Video memory: 1987

  Map #2: Seller: 1414

  Device: 8 c

  Subsystem: 0

  Revision: 0

  Video memory: 0

  AudioDeviceIOBlockSize: 1024

  AudioDeviceName: Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)

  AudioDeviceNumberOfChannels: 2

  AudioDeviceSampleRate: 44100

  Build: not initialized

  Direct2DEnabled: false

  GPUDevice: not available

  OGLEnabled: true

  There are problems with the GPU. The first thing I would suggest you try is to performance tab in your Lightroom preferences and uncheck the box and see if that makes a difference. It has cleared up problems for many other users. The GPU acceleration seems to be a work in progress at this stage.

• I have a Canon T3i and when I take pictures in auto mode, all my pictures look a bit washed out.

  If I put my camera in P mode, put the balance of whites in the setting "100", of "disorder" (even in the Sun) ISO Picture style 'landscape', my photos look better, have more color saturation, more to my taste.  Guess my question is, is it possible to make the settings in automatic mode, to achieve the results in my pictures that I receive when you use the Mode "P"?  It seems to be the same for all the goals that I use, although usually use my Canon 18-55mm kit lens.   I took samples of the same scene in a car, then P mode and the difference is dramatic.  Is it possible to change the default settings in Automatic Mode for this problem?  And if not, why Cannon would set the default settings for these poor results?

  Because I gave up on Auto a very long time for the same reasons that you are having problems I don't know whether or not they have improved how it works. IF you get better results in PROGRAM mode (which you can also refine to be of even better results) then I think that it works as expected. I THINK Canon should not give buyers a DSLR the Auto setting. More first-time buyers spend a lot of time to earn the money to buy their first DSLR & think they can ignore learn them to use by choosing the Auto Mode. For me, it's a foolish gesture. Spend 10% of the time that it took to earn money by reading the manual & practicing things, he tries to explain.

  Another thing that can help is to look at a few times

  http://www.canonoutsideofauto.ca/

• Best way to go next to improve the color of the sky?

  Hi guys,.

  I have most of my colors from just about the way I would like them in Camera Raw, except for one thing: my bright blue sky out of kind of dull - particularly in comparison with JPEG files in camera.  Notice the difference, for example, in the colors of the sky in this representative sample.  I use the camera profile Adobe's Standard with a few settings for default cursors, but none of the available cursors allow me to saturate the color of the sky without altering the balance of the darker colors.

  

  I wouldn't mind a much more saturated sky with the more blue color that I get from Photoshop, but the real key here is the level of color saturation in the sky.  Clearly the Canon's interpretation of the data in the area of clear sky quite differently from Adobe converter.  In my opinion, they do a better job than Adobe.

  My question is this: in pursuit of the colors more saturated vives, should I change my own profile?  Or maybe I should craft some measures in adequate Photoshop fix this?  The former would give a result more integrated, direct, but it wouldn't be too bad as I already use an action to convert to ProPhoto RGB images to sRGB.

  Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you.

  -Christmas

  Noel,.

  I did more high profile of dng using (16 bits) out of Canon DPP and not the camera. If I understand correctly, Adobe did the same thing. There are slight differences in rendering between the camera and the DPP, so try to develop your RAW with DPP and ACR and check the differences

  Technically, this profile has the same WB as camera Standard, I borrowed the color of it dies. But even if WB are different, if you set WB to "As Shot", which is white (R = G = B) using camera Standard white with this profile, just the color temperature and the color displayed in the window of the cab would be different. It is because when WB is set shot, then ACR gets all the necessary information of WB for the transformation of color in raw file's exif tags

  However, as various technical details in DPP and ACR (and photo) are different, it is not to expect that you get the exact match of all the colors, but I did everything I can to be as close as possible.

  In addition, as I wrote, to match the camera / DPP exposure, good value is, for some reason,-0,24 (instead of-0,25), because it's the ACR value uses for 40 days (at least in the case of flood attached you). Not a big difference however...

  Edit: actually, the color matrices are taking of dng that has been converted to cr2. There are differences in the 4th decimal place of matrix2 between dng and camera Standard, where the difference in hue 1 and 50K to color temperature, displayed in ACR

• Adjust the color and the lightness/darkness for photos on HP Photosmart 6510

  When I print pictures, I want to be able to adjust the color, saturation and brightness, because the printer prints often dark and too intense in color.

  My last printer have an option for this in the menu, but with the 6510 I can't. Now a lot of my impressions is too dark, too much saturation.

  Using the touchscreen ic memory card is not an option, because it is mainly the picture (a lot of...) on my computer that I don't want to transfer to a memory card, first of all.

  I just want to be in control of what my printer performs.

  Hopefully, someone can help

  José

  I don't think that this feature is more included in the software for this product. It is possible that if you use a rough driver, you might be able to use them, but I'm not some of what I've never needed to use:

  http://h30434.www3.HP.com/T5/printer-all-in-one-software-drivers-e-g-Windows-8/How-to-assign-alternate-print-drivers-in-different-versions/TD-p/1957011

  If this does not work, you will need to edit the photos before printing by another program.

  Let me know if it helps, I wish you a nice weekend!

  -Spencer

• Does not print the magenta color; HP 2575 All in One Photosmart

  Installation HP2575 on another PC with 8.1 Windows 64-Bit operating system.  After installing new printer cartridges have been installed, print heads were clean and aligned and even Magenta will not print.

  Take a look at the diagnostic test page.  Colors have lines through them, and the depth of the colors are not what they should be. We did change color saturation temperature and do not have an increase in the saturation of Magenta.

  What else should I consider troubleshooting?

  Alchohal Publix swabs to clean electrical contacts and the nozzles on the printer cartridges. Also cleaned the contact electric coupling on the printer.

  EVERYTHING WORKS FINE NOW!

• XPS 15 - Saturation of the colours on LCD

  I know that some people have raised this point already, so I apologize for the duplication problem.

  I just replaced my XPS M1710 (sad to see it die) with an XPS 15.   This machine is great, except the color saturation, especially with red, are crazy.  The red color is so intense (saturated) that it borders on painful to watch.

  I looked at every setting I can think but can't find a way to temper.

  Any thoughts?    Reference Dell... Please don't tell me to change my theme for Windows 7 settings!

  I think I found the solution:

  Try to open Windows Mobility Center and will by default display color and configuration in 'Generic color' instead of 'Splendid ".

  This fixed my problem and I'm shocked Dell technical support could not suggest that before taking on my computer and uninstall then reinstall the video drivers. SMH...

  I went from trying to return my new XPS 15 to love it with a click of a button.

  Let me know if it works for you as well.

• Color matches do not CA, AE and HAVE

  Hello

  I have a character who must be animated to host character without arms attached. The arms are added in After Effects. The character was drawn in Illustrator.

  I am the character as a PNG sequence, and the arms are two static PNGs

  For some reason any, whenever I bring you the sequence of PNG of the head / torso in AE, the color saturation is skewed higher than the actual color. This translates the arms looking for obviously as separate pieces.

  Is there a way to solve this problem in animation character until I give in? If this is not the case, how can I do to solve this at all?

  Any help on this would be appreciated.

  Thank you.

  What is - this - the PNG is always saved as RGB, CMYK not. I suggest to change your original RGB file and then everything must match throughout the entire workflow.

• Photoshop - Second monitor color management

  When I use Photoshop on my laptop (windows) on the image of the screen of the laptop and its colors are just about perfect.

  

  However, when I drag the window to my second monitor Photoshop knows how to manage color at all and so my white and grey look completely yellow!

  

  
  It's very start especially when you try to design images for printing and so I was wondering if there is a way to disable the Photoshop color management and have it use the OS and default colors of monitor management games or I should say people change in preferences, I tampered with and changed all the settings and it seems to be able to adjust the color saturation and brightness but nothing gets rid of this yellowish harmonic and makes my whites white!

  Thanks for any help.

  You use Windows 7 or higher? You must run the utility of color grading on each monitor that you want to use.

• Change of color during the duplication of the PSD

  This is a problem I had to deal with for a while.

  Sometimes, I noticed that when I go to duplicate a PSD, there is a change in color. If you take a look at the integrated video, you'll see where I'll duplicate the PSD and show the configuration profile and the test of color are identical, but there is a change of color/saturation and final between the two documents. I also suspect that the color of the source PSD are incorrect, first because any new PSDs I create follow the most recent color offset values.

  Hi D gap, Aaron,

  Perhaps what follows is the OSX bug, that you think, hey if there is others I did not saw it myself?

  With some versions of Mac OS x there was a problem with some versions of Photoshop and the color management on the secondary screens. It seems to be a problem with photoshop not to pick up the secondary display deflector under certain circumstances.

  In fact, in this case, the bug meant that Photoshop loaded the profile of the display on which the document open and has not changed the display profile if the file has been moved to the other screen.

  This could be demonstrated by taking a test like mine image (composite, contains colors memory easy to see travel), duplication and drag a copy of a 2nd screen, when it works right, as the document gets a certain proportion of the place on the new screen, the color would be inappropriate because Photoshop picks up the second display profile. So with 2 screens calibrated and profiled, you should have 2 matching pictures to look at.

  My solution for this was to place the bar of OSX menus on the screen more important (that I want color managed) then, when photoshop opens, it opens on this screen too. Now open Photoshop files (Adobe call them 'the documents') they will open on this "color management and main screen will be correct as the profile of the screen on the right will be used.

  If this helps to explain the problem of Aaron is beyond me to understand, especially given his propensity to use Adobe RGB as their profile display. I suppose that, even if, as the Cintiq IS a secondary screen, it could be part of history.

  Aaron, what version of Mac OS x is it please?

  I hope this helps

  If so, please mark my answer as 'useful' and if you're OK now, like "right answer" if others who have similar problems can see the solution

  Thank you

  Neil barstow, colourmanagement.net

• First and second color, correct methods

  Hello!

  I have a long - video clip of the part. I turned to a point, but from different angles and shots (medium and long shots). And as a result, I have a video with different exposures and color saturation.

  I created an adjustment layer and applied the Lumitry for the correction with average amounts of primary colors. But now, I would like to correct some settings like contrast and saturation in different parts of my film. What should I do? Add additional adjustment layers above the first layer of setting, I added before or cut my clip in some particular parts and apply corrective effect to those.

  I understand that it is not a technical and theoretical question, but you want to give some advice about this?

  Thank you very much!

  Add layers of additional setting above the first adjustment layer

  Either that, or directly on the clips.  Both should work properly.

• Crude imported with hot color

  Hello

  
  

  I noticed that when importing my RAW file (.) ORF) LR6/PS nc6 colors are TOO hot.

  If I open the raw with the Olympus software or viewer Irfanview file or Windows colors are adapted to what I expect.

  I have LR6, nc6 PS with last Camera Raw 9.3.1 on Windows 10 64-bit.

  My camera is an Olympus MDGS EM1.

  Please help me, I think that this is the case since I've updated nc6 LR6/PS, I think in end of December 2015.

  Thank you

  Maurizio

  You do not ever view the raw file. Your firmware of the device creates a file that is stored in the raw file header, it's the image that is displayed on the screen of your device. This miniature reflects any particular setting, that you may have used when capturing your image.

  The manufacturer of your camera's software will apply all these settings also when it renders raw data to display.

  Adobe Lightroom is an application of raw processing of third party who uses Adobe Chef's recipe to process the raw data and will build his own insights that you will be able to display in the application. When you import into Lightroom the thumbnail will be displayed for a few seconds before the previews of Lightroom are completed.

  Lightroom uses no recipe for the head of your Olympus because it is the property of Olympus.

  In the Lightroom 'caméra Calibration' tab in the right side panel Development Module there is a choice of the following options for your model camera 'Adobe Standard', this is the recipe of Lightroom to your camera in the other 'camera, Muted, natural, Portrait, Vivid' are other Lightroom recipes trying to match these settings in your camera.

  Other viewing applications will display only the thumbnail from the raw file.

• Lumetri of color adjustment causes the collapse of the Red

  First of all I must say that I love the color Lumetri Panel.  But I came across a problem with red in my final rendering, and I've encountered this problem before.

  After using Lumetri color correction, he looks a lot like the timeline, but then in my final rendering, I get this block crap that resembles a small MPEG flow...

  In this particular clip, I had to correct the colors, which I made using RGB curves and color saturation then brought in broadcasting trunk using the Saturation, tone curve, and basic Correction has also been used to add exposure, contrast, tint and a warmer color temperature.  Like I said, it's beautiful on the timeline, but then I give it back using a high flow rate (H.264, MOV or MP4, ' Match source broadband ') I get this polyhedral shit.  I didn't when I used the CineForm MOV, but I can't send in this codec because of the lack of compatibility in the players, and when it will broadcast, I doubt networks will accept CineForm.

  Everyone race in this issue?  Suggestions?

  Classified as a dream without the artifacts and the own reds.  H264 HI bitrate