Similar Questions

• 3750 x with single power supply

  Didn't know exactly where this post I hope that I am close to.

  I have two 3750 x who were part of a stack, with stacked food.  A switch has two power supplies, the other alone.  How to configure the switch to use only a single power supply.  I always get an error that the battery more redundancy and works in mode of power-sharing.  The battery show power command returns:

  Name of battery power: Powerstack-1
  Stacking mode: redundant
  Topology of the battery: autonomous
  Switch 1:
  Power budget: 673
  Low-value priority port: 22
  The priority value high port: 13
  Change the priority value: 4
  Port 1 status: not connected
  2 port State: not connected
  Neighbor on port 1: 0000.0000.0000
  Neighbor on port 2: 0000.0000.0000

  Try:

  stack-power mode power-sharing

• HP 3520e all in one printer, power supply problem

  Recently off my 3520e all in one printer when you go away, come back after 2 weeks and can't turn it back on.

  All the cables are connected and power is available, but will not turn on/off button.

  Ideas please

  Hello John-FB,

  Please click here to access document that should help you to solve the problem.

• Area 51 - R2, choice of power supply?

  Hello

  I'll buy a new Alienware Area 51 tonight. I decided to put one card video in for now and upgrade/add later.

  On the Alienware website, it says that there 850w for a video card and 1500w for several video cards, but I can't choose to take.

  If I buy a single video card, I can supply 1500w? Or is there a software in the Alienware to change power?

  Thank you for your reply,

  Antoine Bedaton

  DELL-Chris M

  On the siteof USA, I choose food, but you must also choose the correct CPU for the power supply.

  Well well, what do we have here Mr. M? This looks like something for me. Is the way to this Alienware to say than those who choose the Cpu Hotwell & "match" power supply - as if such a thing could even exist within our reality - until later, when the buyer prefers to upgrade to Bwell Cpu, their power will be, what exactly? Not approved?

  A wiki article, operation / well are two processors of tdp of 140 watts. What could be the problem requiring different "options"? Why not make all power supply purchases of "approved"? I see no mention well v. Haswell requirements or revisions on Corsair ax1500i EVGA 1600 (or) Newegg or online, while D850EF-00, D1500EF-HU850EF-00-00 the site of 80Plus PlugLoadSoltions say 850/1500 have no change since their certifications 2 years ago. The search term ' Broadwell-E approved (or certified) power ' doesn't produce any meaningful information to the public, certainly from Intel. Facing no new Broadwell-E approved power supplies released at Computex 2016, asked how all overclockers took well to extreme overclocks of liquid nitrogen (LN2) at the Intel-sponsored by using "old Haswell" overclocking event power both strive for & then achieve these records of the world. Not that I'd buy it, but the Thermaltake 1500w titanium, unveiled at Computex last month, makes no mention of being Broadwell-E approved; a strange situation titanium now their coronation, ostensibly in free use at Computex to show itself

  I smell something here, or here, something that falls on the advantage of the consumer in the future later when choosing operating cpu & 'box' in 'outdated' operation single power supply

  I would like to label these types of non-descript as unacceptable antics for a particular reason: asked about Facebook to explain exactly what that ships inside the Area-51, the public is directed to the sales page area - 51.com. the screenshot of your above don't tell us anything about the hardware itself. When asked to point blank that ships inside new desktops Broadwell, Joe Olmsted declined to comment, has refused to help raise awareness about the most expensive non-descript present hardware options or not to this day. It's unbearable, given the outdated and ambiguous to the actual sales page, both CGI & text

  If our points of sale, which are intended to evaluate the public of what they buy cannot come from Facebook where the question itself is removed from public display by employee Alien - RC (documented), cannot come from the sales Page, & cannot come from the Product Planner himself on Dell.com, what are we going to do Mr M, in order to better inform us about the material & its specifications? Are we to go it misleading error CGI & ambiguous text? Are you able to contact Alienware for a response & post their response to us here, in order to better inform the public what new operation v Broadwell supply means or can mean for the consumer, past present & future?

  Knowledge in itself can help the buyer choose between 5820 k c. 6800 k for example, as a simple decision made scalability now when it's appropriate, or, in the event of the loss of scalability an opt - in operation now in the face of any literature or deliberate or business help in social media or other outlets to be informed, making the consumer that is unaware of a decision that had to be do now when it reasonably & affordable can. If I ask this question to the Technical Support Arena under my username, can I be guaranteed a timely response or will I ignored as is done in almost all of my technical questions it last year?

  What makes well 850/1500 '? "than the 850/1500 only

  Of some importance is the following: can u get the new 850w / 1500w numbers - if they exist - and if they do, please post them here for the public, so past operating & future buyers may have the "approved" Broadwell from manufacturer to purchase now or later. 850 buyers may like the 1500 later, perhaps accompanied by the warning not to install 800GY 'approved' 1500w operation, but only install 'new' well 1500

  

  Is the safety of the products, EMC and environmental datasheet now obsolete?

  Yes or no: can we expect a revised report of the compliance test for 'new Broadwell' approved psu?

  Mr President, here & now is as good a time & place as any to make these distinctions, if they exist. The doubting Thomas is waiting with impatience the results of your research in these areas above & below

  As all the previous Area-51 R2 buyers are the last people on Earth who still can not spend processor Broadwell-E due to no support Alienware a month after the debut of well, This is due to a 'no-Broadwell-E' authorized unsuited to the American system power?

  If past operation of buyer power is sufficient to run well Finally, why are new buyers well requested option to a power of good, while the new buyers of Haswell are prohibited to?

  If the power supply of the new buyer is not enough to run well Finally, why are new buyers Haswell prohibited access to it at the time of the purchase?
  

  Why is well approved psu an element of equal access to all buyers & most of all, why is not backward compatible with the Hwell? Why two options of PSU & the only "best option"?

  What are the documents will be produced - and when - announcing & confirming that all systems of eqwipped Hwell sold currently passed & future are also in fact approved material - & otherwise approved - why not

  Can you provide a majority or all of the above, or should we stay on Facebook & Twitter?

  At your leisure...

  Oh. There is more

  Please find & view the reference number of the new Aurora R5 850w, which is capable of powering of double - 300 watt cards & is far superior to the Area-51 850 watt who cannot supply double cards of 250 watts. There may be in the population of Area-51 owners who want to "pass" to Aurora R5 850 watt later in order to run double 250 watts or cards double 300 watt, without incurring the high cost of the 1500 watts

  We would like to know if the 850 watt in Aurora is also Broadwell-E approved, in order to better integrate into a system if it is the fault of the owner - either by a X 99 micro-ATX card mother swap to Aurora - or simple plug & play in A-51, regardless of whether an operating system or. Compatibility seems in doubt

  Is Aurora 850w approved by good: If so, why Yes... If not, why not

  ('we don't test Skylake R5 with good compatibility, no response from here ', I heard u say?)

  

  Note: Aurora R5 is not "Skylake approved", or Hwell/well approved: it's just one power supply like any other we beings humans are you use to run an Intel High performance after 2013 & my little finger tells me that it is exactly the same one as it was still inside the Area-51, even now. The 850 in R5 should not have to be tested for compatibility with Hwell/well, he should just "be a known" as opposed to marked a "unknown" "untested". What kind of technology company can't know if their power is compatible with all Intel processors or not. Exactly. Google 'the great 2013 Haswell PSU compatibility list'. Transparency. The qwestion is not what what can he do inside the Aurora, but what can he do outside, like a stand-alone. Certainly, it has been tested both within the Aurora & A51 for full compatibility Sky-Hwell-well, to say or think otherwise is absurd

  Option of the A51 Haswell 850/1500 before = compatible: Yes No as above

• Power supply # power # chassis: off

  Have 4 new UCS chassis in rack. 3 of them have PSU 2 and 4 in a "stopping" State, even if the green light turns on all blocks of 4 power supply into the chassis. All chassis are connected same PDU to the back of the basket, so I know that we have a clean diet.

  I tried adjusting the grid to N + 1 and return to nothing will do. Advice would be useful

  Frame 1:
  General: power supply problem
  Operability: operable
  Supply status: Ok
  Thermal state: Ok

  1 POWER SUPPLY:
  Threshold status: OK
  General State: operable
  Operability: operable
  Power state: the
  Thermal state: OK
  State of tension: OK

  PSU 2:
  Threshold status: n/a
  General situation: n/a
  Operability: n/a
  Supply status: Off
  Thermal state: n/a
  State of tension: n/a

  3 POWER SUPPLY:
  Threshold status: n/a
  General State: operable
  Operability: operable
  Power state: the
  Thermal state: OK
  State of tension: n/a

  PSU 4:
  Threshold status: n/a
  General situation: n/a
  Operability: n/a
  Supply status: Off
  Thermal state: n/a
  State of tension: n/a

  On this version, most of the I2C issues have been corrected, but if the chassis has been assigned for a period of time, your I2C may have been congested for a while.

  To clear the I2C bus, you must reinstall the components that use it... Power supplies, fans, and IOM therefore the recommendation would be to:

  1 - Reinstall each fan and power supply (one at a time and wait 3 minutes before hand) upward once again, move on with the next

  2. Remove subordinate IOM, keep it out of the chassis for 5 minutes, drain all power, put it back and wait it comes back before it.

  Make sure that you have network redundancy configured before you do and if you need help or you don't feel comfortable with the process, contact TAC for assistance.

  If this helps, please rate it... If it solves the problem, please mark it as such for future users to take advantage of it too.

  -Kenny

• HP Envy 23 all-in-one. : HP Envy 23 all in a single C030. Blank Screen, power light, the fan runs.

  HP Envy 23 all in a single C030. Blank Screen, power light, the fan runs. After that I opened start legacy and power cord from my puss. Help me please.

  Hi there @ZiECloNE,

  Welcome to the Forums of HP Support!  I understand that you are no longer able to boot your computer after a "event for pets.  I'm happy to help you with this.

  Don't forget to check all of your connections, power cord, power adapter, and maybe try another outlet and a direct connection to wall.  If there is no change then the following test: desktop HP - computer starts not (Windows 10.8)

  Please let me know if it works for you and if it does not solve your problem, please mark this message as a solution. Bravo would be appreciated as well.

• sudden loss of battery power, connection lost, lose all power from power supply disconnected, does not recognize battery

  I have a Sony VAIO & use the largest of the battery (extended life) since I bought it 3 years ago fighting.  I was always able to automatically switch the power supply of the battery by simply unplugging, or computer plugging in AC on leash.  And, I was always able to see the battery down icon to the left of the screen (taskbar) & it would show % battery remaining.  Now, all at once, as soon as the power supply cord is UN-plugged the laptop turns off completely, no reserve power at all & I can't find the info of the battery. anywhere on the computer.  Icon no longer appears in the lower left corner & when I go into the power settings, the "Battery 1" icon is grayed out, so it seems that the computer is not finding all the batteries.  It happened so suddenly.  Could battery comes essentially lost all its power & become non-existent to the computer, or is this a computer problem, battery not recognize.  Not sure if this puts some I can fix somewhere, or if I need to have a computer repair man to fix the real computer.  Please HELP, I am desperate to solve this problem, as a laptop does not really serve its purpose if it must be connected to the hard power all the time!  TX in advance for a help, suggestions.

  Yes, most things are cheaper to replace than to trouble.

  But if the laptop seems to work ok otherwise, he might just be easier to see if there is a recall on the faulty battery or if it is still under warranty.  In addition, sometimes you can add a little more memory to the old system and see some performance improvements

  on the other hand, replacement of the laptop can be problematic because the old machine has all the programs installed on it, registered product keys and has accumulated years of personal files.  and sometimes old expensive programs won't work on newer versions of windows.

  the argument would be to close the new machine on the standards you eventually accept.

  DB·´¯'·.. ¸ >-))) º > ·´¯'·.. ¸ >-))) º > share nirvana mann

• all in a single j6480 won't turn on or off by pressing the power button

  my all in one j6480 won't turn on or off by pressing the power button. from pluging in the power cable to the output, the display panel stays on by a flashing point moving from left to right, repeatedly. also, there is a faded beeps coming from the printer on the left side. See no empty self am unable to do anything on this subject.

  There may be a problem with the power supply/power cord module brick.  Try following the steps described in this document.  If that does not receive the printer works properly again, you can try to contact tech support to buy a new power module (if still available), or you need to replace the printer.  You can join the 1-800-474-6836 technical support to the United States and the Canada International users click here.  Let me know what happens.

• CPU constantly tries to reboot - just replaced the power supply - and can't get into Windows at all the

  I replaced the power supply 2 weeks ago and left the computer.  Follow me up one morning, the computer froze and when I tried to reboot, it whirs and stops... 5 seconds later same thing.  The power button lights up orange... someone can give me an idea of the problem?  Defective power supply replacement?

  Hi Cathy,.

  This seems to be a hardware failure. You must get in touch with the manufacturer of the system or the local Techshop for better assistance.

• The Acer M3641 will have a standard ATX power supply? My power supply is dead.

  My M3641 does not start and it seems to be dead while it is turned off.  It was plugged and it started sparking and make loud pop.  I see no signs of a short circuit or damage the inside of the case, but I did not remove or open the power supply.  I think to replace, but I can't find all the information on the sites of Acer which would specify if a standard ATX PSU would work or if there are installation instructions I need.  Does anyone out there know about this?  Thank you.

  OK, no answer here yet, so I had to make a decision.  I bought a ThermalTake TR2 430W ATX PSU (also shown on their Web site as W0070) and I replaced the power supply in my M3641.  It cost me $25 (after discount) at a local TigerDirect store (CompUSA was.)  I was shocked (no pun intended) the degree of simplicity to install.  I was also shocked that he seems to have worked immediately.

  First I disconnected the power of the unit and press and hold the power on button on the front of the PC (according to the instructions of Acer) to release any remaining electrical load (or so they claim).  I removed the 4 screws of the old PSU and slid the box out of the chassis Assembly while retaining all connected cables.  I found the best direction for the new PSU (fan stood in the same place, so the new power supply heat can be evacuated in the chassis, but the chassis is open enough and if the fan is drawing inside the PSU the air comes from the back of the unit (reasonably fresh air.)  It's the only way it would fit the attachment power cord located on the side of the draw.  The old power supply had the fan and the power cord on the same side attachment to the rear of the chassis).  Note that it is possible that the fan is fan in the power supply and the back.  I do not know.  In any case, I had no choice about the direction.

  I unplugged the old PSU connector and replaced it by plugging the connector corresponding since the new power supply.  I did step by step, a connector at the same time, check first to make sure I knew exactly where the connector has been set and what was the orientation.  In each case, I checked to make sure that the paired wire color coding.  In some cases, there was an extra wire on the new connector, but all the others were corresponding to the color and orientation.  I had a square connection 4 pins which does not correspond to the form of any connector again, but the new PSU was a rectangle connector 8 this divide into two 4 pin and I joined an of these.  The main connector has been 24 pins and the new PSU gave me an option of 20 or 24 pins.  Once again, no problem.  I noticed that one of the connections of the old PSU was actually two connections separated on a single cable, so I simply repeated with the new power supply, which included two cables multiconnector just for this purpose.  I used one of those for the two connections (hard disk, I think) and the other for a single connection, probably for the optical drive.

  The old power supply was now completely detached.

  After checking that all the screws and connectors have been secured, screw the plate chassis and to make sure the PC is properly delivered together, I plugged it in the end of the power cable supplied with the new power supply with the power off PC switch.  Then I plugged the other end of the power cable on my PS backup APC no explosion yet, so I went the new PC button power on / off to we.  Still no spark, so I pressed the button on the front of the PC and voila, it lights up and started.  Everything seems fine.  It seems to work normally.  If I encounter problems such as overheating, I will update this post.

• Backplane SATA Blackbird of wiring to a new power supply

  I have a rebuilt merle.  In order to get more 12V on a single rail, I had to replace the original ToPower PSU, which was limited to 20 or more.

  Unfortunately, the power of cable plumbing inside basket SATA of the Blackbird is the property of the old PSU.  He expects a plug SATA/IDE 8 pins on the power supply, with the 3.3V line to a particular axis on this takeover.

  All pulling SATA backplane ("BLACKBIRD BACKPLANE REV. 3.0," according to the PCB) my readers to wire directly, however, I noticed several other power on the circuit board connectors: two IDE-style 4-pole, with a SATA type. Neither has been connected in the original system, the original power cable after running a non standard Molex 10-pin on the map.  Some or all of these connectors would be enough to power backplane?  If so, what are their pinout?  Standard version?

  Thanks for all the advice offered.

  2 x 4 pin molex are fine. standard.

• Requirements of power supply for the HD 5850 2 GB

  The newegg for the HD 5850 2 GB specs say I need a 500W power supply.  However, the form printed on the box of the HD 5850 2 GB said it requires a power of 600W.  I have a 560w PSU, can I get away with this or should I spend at least a 600W?

  Thank you, any help is appreciated.

  The amount of amperage on the bus + 12 volts is the important resource for video cards.  One manufacturer said a block of at least 450 Watt power SUPPLY.  Not all power supplies are created equal, but the power supply in your link has 46 amps on the bus + 12 volts and that's a single rail PSU.  This should be sufficient amperage.

  If you have an old HP PC, so it might be a compatibility problem with your motherboard and the HD 5850. Open your PC and do some measuring to ensure that the map will adjust.

• Studio XPS 435 t / 9000 power supply problem

  My diet giving me in my Studio XPS 435 t/9000. The fan is very noisy, but otherwise there is no obvious symptoms. Since the system is about 5 years, I was planning to change some parts.

  My questions are:

  (1) what could be the cause of the fan to be strong, and what are the potential problems with that?

  (2) a system of 435MT 475W PSU would be compatible, or would I need specifically a 435 t?

  The first thing I would do is keep the Office of your garage. Open the side cover. Use compressed air can and blow all the dust that has accumulated in the tower. Blowing from the rear of the PSU and the inside of it. Replace the cover and retest for the noise of the PSU. The power supply 360w on Studio XPS 435MT will not work. The only Dell validated PSU for the Studio XPS 435 t / 9000 has been F217J 475w. The best video cards, we validated our eating 475w were:
  2XTG4 AMD Radeon HD5870
  5X2CH Nvidia GeForce GTX260

  You might consider installing a power supply of higher power, but with a single card video, you need something bigger then a 650w. You could then spend the video card for sale retail Nvidia GTX660.

• G4 MDD power supply Issue

  My MDD was recently stop only two or three minutes after a cold start. The power led lights up, the gray screen with the Apple logo appears with the spinning wheel, but then the machine suddenly loses power as if the power cord was disconnected. These are the things I've already tried:

  1. Removed the PRAM Battery
  2. Disconnected all devices except the keyboard and the monitor
  3. Tried a different power cord

  Start in safe mode did not help. The fans are all running, the red LED lights on the logic board and disk drives seem to work. This could be a power supply issue or a problem with the motherboard and is it possible that I can definitely identify the problem without being able to start the G4? The startup time has been considering more when everything worked last week, would that be a clue? I've owned this machine for more than twelve years and it put to the test so I wonder if it's time to retire him.

  Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

  Hi, looks a lot like a problem of heat from the CPU, thermal paste is usually good for 5 years or more.

  It runs longer open door?

• My iMac was bought from China, it runs on 220V power supply, can it be moved to the United States working at 110 V?

  My iMac bought from China, he works with 220V power supply, can it be moved to the United States working at 110 V?

  Electrical and operating requirements

  Voltage: 100-240V AC

  Frequency: 50 Hz to 60 Hz, single phase

  Operating temperature: 50 ° to 95 ° F (10 ° to 35 ° C)

  Relative humidity: 5 to 95% without condensation

  Operating altitude: tested to 10,000 feet

  of https://www.apple.com/imac/specs/