Canon 1000 d external flash

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• External Flash for t4i options

  I recently bought the Canon t4i and am more than a little impressed by the unit.

  Years, I bought an external flash Canon Speedlite 299 T to use with my camera Canon AE1 Program.  Ask yourself whether or not this old work, but still, flash works with my new camera?

  It will be, but you will need to shoot in manual mode to adapt to its release. The camera cannot control if you need to do the work.

• External Flash

  I have a Canon EOS T3i and shoot in automatic mode.  My indoor photos appear to be yellowish.  Would an external flash and if so what model

  There are really two different questions here:

  (1) will Flash help with domestic plans?

  (2) why are the yellowish inner planes?

  Let's talk about the first "yellowish" problem.

  I'll guess that your inner planes have traditional incandescent lighting (tungsten filament traditional bulbs).  It is normal that these bulbs turn off a rather decidedly yellow/orange color cast.

  You can adjust the white balance to highlight "tungsten" (icon looks like a typical bulb).  But don't forget to change it when you are finished or outdoor photos eventually you are looking for a lot too blue.  You can use the "custom white balance" to fix as well (custom white balance is to take a picture of a neutral grey card, which is held in the same light you intend to shoot in.)  When you take the custom white balance, it will ask for the reference image, you take this picture of the gray card, and the camera adjusts the white balance to neutralize any color cast caused by light.  There are tutorials and videos from YouTube to show how to do.)

  Now on the flash...

  A lightning bolt has a "color temperature" designed to match daylight (outdoor light).  A wobbly thing happens when you mix "daylight" with "tungsten".  If the flash looks "white" while any traditional incandescent lighting will look especially orange.  If you set a to remove white balance, then these lamps will look normal, but your flash light will seem 'cool' and blue.

  The "fix" is to use what is called a 'CTO freeze' on the flash.  CTO stands for "Orange Color Temperature.  The color gel (you just piece of tape on the front of the flash) colors in the light of the flash to match the color of the lights.  Then, when you set the camera to use "tungsten" white balance, the whole scene seems normal.

  You can do a Google search for "flash CTO gels" and find a lot of information but also of companies that sell gels.

  Canon Speedlite new 600EX-RT comes with a gel of the CTO and darker orange gel (which approximates the color of the light of the Sun in the Sun).

  Sometimes I think that everyone should have a flash speedlite external flash.  There are two or three issues with the built-in flashes.

  First... they tend to not be very big and not very powerful.  They are good for distances of about 10' work... maybe 12' - but also they do not have the power to illuiminate a large surface.

  Second... they are not bent or diffuse light.  When the light comes from the same direction as the lens of the camera, he's hiding all the shadows.  For the great light, you actually want shadow.  Shadows allow three-dimensional objects show their dimensionality.  Textures look "flat" when there is no shadows.  In addition, it is a source of tiny pin-point so it doesn't create soft diffused light (diffused light is a light that seems to come from a large area - not a point source).

  Third... light has a problem of 'falling' (made all of the light).  As the distance of the light source increases, the light spreads.  The rate at which it spans East called the "inverse square law' and it applies to many things in addition to light.  But the inverse square law says that the light will effectively become half as brilliant whenever the distance from the source at a rate of increase.  This rate is based on the square root of 2 (which is a number very close to 1.4).

  Suppose you have a topic to 5' of light.  He gets an amount of light and you put the exposure for a beautiful display with this light at that distance.  An object that is 1.4 times as far (which would be) 7' would get HALF as much light.  An object 1.4 times further than (10') would get half as much again (or 1/8th).  14' is half as much again (1/16th) and 20' he 1/32nd as much light.

  If you "bounce" the light on the ceiling, then everything is raining down from above... There is always a problem of fall, but it will be not so drastically due to the new path taken by light.   You will get a room that is a little more uniform light.  But the built-in pop-up flash can not be put in the ceiling to "bounce" the light.  A flash mounted on external shoe has a head that can be tilted up to "bounce" the shot - and they tend to be much more powerful.

  Today I use 600EX-RT Speedlite flashes, but I own and have widely used the 430EX II and it is a large workhorse flash in a nice sized package.

• Memory external flash for iPhone 5

  IS it advisable, and if it works well if

  memory external flash like sandisk SanDisk iXpand Flash drive for iPhone 5-16 GB and 2-32GB iPad?

  good work means:

  all types of ll of audits and usable on hardware videos files,

  can a being exchanged between equipment drive, two way, in real time.

  You can use an external drive for backup or file transfer. You cannot access the files on the external drive from the phone.

• Canon 580 ex ii flash

  I have a Canon 580 EX II flash and when it is not attached to a camera when I test the flash it acts like a strobe a bit and hangs a bit.  Once attached to the camera it functions correctly.  Any idea what's going on?  Should it be sent repair?  Help

  He wasn't in strobe mode-

  sportnet23 wrote:

  I have a Canon 580 EX II flash and when it is not attached to a camera when I test the flash it acts like a strobe a bit and hangs a bit.  Once attached to the camera it functions correctly.  Any idea what's going on?  Should it be sent repair?  Help

  He wasn't in strobe mode-

  Check the settings of custom on the flash itself function, looks like it's on fire light 'modeling '.

• G10 vs Canon 1000 d

  Hello.

  I guess you guys can give me a better understanding, I can't myself.

  I got the Canon 1000 d and the Canon Powershot G10 for all 200dollars each.

  Canon 1000 d a ef-s 18-55mm, 1: 3. 5 - 5.6.

  It's stupid to buy an old camera? Or is this a good price, and a camera I will be satisfied for a long time?

  Your sincerely Kalle.

  Hello

  The G10 has excellent image quality and has a setting of 'Raw '. It is a 'Pro' camera with great ergonomics. If it is in good condition, $200 is a bargain. I have several SLR and it's true that they have the advantage of interchangeable lenses, but for those times where you don't want to wear a big, you will not be disappointed with the G10. There's no shutter lag sensitive, at least in the single shot mode. If you need to shoot a lot of action and use the zoom often, it could slow you down as the zoom is controlled electronically rather than manually. Other than that, it's a wonderful device. When I used it first of all, I was very surprised by the quality of the image. For the price, you can get both cameras. They each have advantages.

  Bill

• HI - A57 overexposed with external Flash HVL-56

  I bought the HVL-56 AM flash when I bought my original Alpha 100 camera and it served me well when I needed an external flash higher power.  When I updated the camera to the A57 - HI, I thought that the HVL-56 would work well since it uses the same shoe.  However, each image is overexposed when using the external flash.  I get similar with backlight results or front lighting.  I looked through the Sony forums and read carefully this manual but can't find what could be the problem.  Any ideas?

  Hi DougNC,

  Welcome to the community of Sony!

  I recommend that you check the exposure settings when shooting with the flash. Your settings may be the cause of the photos to be overexposed. Check, the White Balance, ISO or EV compensation as these will affect the brightness of the photo. Also opening speeds and speed. A faster shutter speed will allow the lesser light in the sensor, identical to a lower open stop.

  I would also recommend affecting the flash at a lower power level, especially when shooting subjects closest to the camera.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution. Thanks_Mitch

• Windows 7 Professional... How to get access to security to view my external hard drives and external flash dirves

  I am a first time user to windows 7 Professional and need to learn how to access files that are connected to the computer by an external flash drive or an external hard drive.

  External or external flash drives hard drives can be connected to windows 8 computers or windows xp to view the files, but when then identical external or external flash drives hard drives are connected to two computers with windows 7 Professional there are settings automatically don ot all access to the external hard drive or flash drive external files.

  When the computer display, it displays the external hard drive.

  When I left click top produces a pop up with the title bar: location is not available

  Content: H: | is not accessible.

  Access is denied.

  When I right click on the hard drive and then click the Security tab, it displays:

  Name of the object: H: |

  To continue, you must be an administrative user with permission to view this object's security properties.

  Do you want to continue?

  Then I clicked on continue and it displays:

  Owner

  You do not have permission to view this object's security properties.  To view its security properties, you can try to take possession of the object.  As owner, you can also control who gets the permissions on the object.  Please note that once you take possession, the previous owner may not have access to the object.

  To try to take possession of the object, select an account from the list, and then click OK.

  Name of the object: H: |

  Current owner: unable to display current owner.

  Change in ownership to:

  the two choices are my name or administrators

  I then chose an and apply and ok and it did not work.

  I then chose the other and apply and ok and it did not work.

  Then I clicked on other users or groups and entered everyone and that no longer works.

  I am the only user of this computer brand new.

  When I click on accounts Panel then user control and security for the family and then user accounts, it displays my name as administrator password.

  What are the steps that I can buy an external hard drive or buy a flash drive or use the ones I already have and use them with this computer which has windows 7 Professional?

  How is the switch of the property did not work?

  I went back to safety again and this time stayed at the bottom for special permissions or advanced settings.

  And yet when I kept getting location is not available

  H:\ is not accessible.

  Access is denied.

  How do change you windows 7 Professional so that you can have access to your own files on an external hard drive or an external flash drive.

  Please list the steps.

  Thank you

  This problem has been resolved in collaboration with support of higher HP for Z book 17 mobile workstation.

  Steps:

  (1) determines that it is not NTFS problem

  (2) using the MSCONFIG the problem has been isolated to a single service

  When this service has been disabled and after reboot, the problem of access to the files is resolved.

  Results: HP had installed software on the HP Z book 17 laptop or mobile workstation which, by default, block communication with external hard drives and flash drives external.

  This HP Client Security software replaces or blocks all right click changes settings become apparent.  It blocks the change of ownership.  It blocks the administrator privileges.  It blocks all is used.

  The HP Client Security software has been changed and changed to deny privileges (default setting) to allow the communication with external drives.  When you go into the setting for this software, it is now a humming noise and maybe I need to download the drivers and software again to see if this problem is also corrected.

  Thanks for your comments.  I spent a lot of time on this and didn't understand why all right-click methods had failed.  The default software setting HP deny had trumped right click all changes.

• I currently store my pictures on and an external hard drive.  Lightroom 6 was not able to find the picture momentarily files.  I inserted an external Flash DRIVE after removing the hard drive and the computer renamed the stick with the same drive letter t

  Redesign existing external hard disks and still 6 Lightroom able to find existing photos.

  I currently store my pictures on and an external hard drive.  Lightroom 6 was not able to find the picture momentarily files.  I inserted an external Flash DRIVE after removing the hard drive and the computer renamed the stick with the same drive letter that has been designated by Lightroom to store my photos.  I could go into my Windows 10 and reset the player to the letter that Lightroom has given at the beginning of the external hard drive.   However, I know this can happen again, if I connect any stick USD or another device, while the external hard drive is not connected to my laptop.   I found the information that I can do the new designation of the final drive by choosing a letter it is 1/2 way or higher in the alphabet.   I would like to turn an external hard drive on a strong letter, warns we hope this previous problem.   My question is, if I already have a lot of pictures on this external hardrive with the designation of the current drive, how it becomes a higher letter and have 6 Lightroom recognizes files, now under the new designation of drive letter without having to go to each photo individually and manually force Lightroom 6 find each photo.  It would take more time than I'd like to lose.  Is there a way to get just 6 Lightroom to recognize the new disk designation has changed and is able to find all of the existing files?

  I have read the ADOBE LightRoom 6 manual and seem not to be able to find anything on how to do it.

  Any help would be welcome.

  Thank you!

  So in Windows, you can select a drive like q letter (or any other letter you want only towards the end of the alphabet)

  Then in Lightroom, you can reconnect to the photos on q: the following instructions (see specifically 4 Figure and related text)

  Adobe Lightroom - find moved or missing folders and files

• an external flash is what I want to fix on my Sony 200HXV. Anyone know what I need to do?

  Really, I love my Sony 200HXV, but I would like to use an external flash to avoid shadows when I use my pop-up flash.  You'll need to disarm the flash, but prefer fix somehow, an external flash to get a quality shot.  Anyone know what I need?

  Thank you.   TLC

  You can use flashes with the construction in the cell of synchronization as the well known and proven Metz MZ 52822D 28 CS - 2 digital Flash for your HX200.

  It is able to synchronize the flash version and is very small but powerful enough for most of the shooting.

• External flash for wireless on the A77 operation and A700

  I have a DSLR Sony A-77 and another (former) A-700. I shoot in a studio with 2 flashes Sony wireless and manual way. The internal flash triggers the external flashes that are placed on the floor or on tripods, one on each side. Now, I want to add a third speed light mainly for the backlight. I was told to buy a used Minolta Flash (to save costs). I don't know what Flash will work the way I need to work.
  Which is compatible with my camera?
  I'll be able to use manually, wireless, as internal third triggered flash to flash my cameras?

  Is it possible to find a used or a new one at a lower cost?
  Thanks in advance for your attention.
  Nuki

  Unfortunately, we have not tested the compatibility of third party brand with our cameras and we can not guarantee full functionality. However, any flash unit that can be optically triggered should be able to operate as a slave flash.

• How to synchronize changes in the iMac to an external flash drive

  Without using a 3rd party application, is it possible to synchronize changes made to my iMac documents and data on an external drive such as a flash drive? I use Time Machine, but I want to connect via a usb cable flash drive in the iMac, such as changes I made one of my documents will automatically flash player to activate and make the same changes on the documents that are in the flash player.

  Not as part of the OS x Time Machine does not have a mirror copy of the backup computer. So what you have is just a backup that can be restored using the application Time Machine.

  There are many utilities of third parties who may perform scheduled backups, incremental reflecting the main hard drive.

  Recommended backup software

  1 Carbon Copy clone

  2. get backup

  3 already seen

  4 superDuper!

  Visit The FAQ XLab and read the FAQ on the backup and restore.  Also read How to back up and restore your files.

• The Canon 70 d remote flash trigger

  Which Canon speed light will work off camera and be triggered by the functionality of firing the flash in camera remotely?

  The native (built-in) flash trigger IS.  This is an optical trigger and requires line of sight to the off-camera flash.

  The 430EX II can be a 'slave' (flash remotely triggered), but may not be a master.  The 580EX II can be a master or slave.  600EX-RT can also be a master or slave (and can no optical or by radio but radio requires a radio trigger - sells Canon a dedicated radio ST-E3-RT trigger or an another 600EX-RT flash can be used as a master/trigger.)

  The built-in flash uses pulses of light (visible light) to communicate with slaves and relay instructions.  It is not infrared or radio.  But the receiver in the slave flashes is on the lower part of the body (not in the flash head upwards).  The front of the lower part of the body has a tint red Panel that resemlbes what you would see on an infrared remote - leading people to assume that it is IR it isn't visible - IR

  If the remote light does not pull when the flash on the camera goes off then lower unit may not have good lighting of the view.  Keep in mind the 430EX II 580EX II and 600EX-RT that all have a flash head that can tilt AND turn left and right.  This means that you can rotate the lower part of the body of the flash so that it points to your camera, but always turn the head so that it points toward your subject.

• My canon eos 30 d flashes too powerfully and whiteing my photos can someone help

  Hi all

  When I take pictures my eos 30 d is too powerful for automatic photos I take and whiteing on the subject

  I looked in my manual and can't see the answer

  If the device worked properly, then started to overexpose in mode auto, most likely, you have changed some settings...

  Go to the menu, select and use 'all clear camera settings. You can also go into the custom functions menu, select and click 'Reset all custom functions'.

  As a last resort, you could do a "reboot" of the camera. It's a bit like rebooting a computer to clear incorrect instructions that are stuck in the memory.

  To do a reset, first turn off the camera, then remove all of the batteries, including the money bit "battery memory" which is in a drawer inside the main compartment. Turn on the camera and press the shutter button once. It fires without batteries, of course. But this drains any residual power in the circuit.

  Turn the power off, reinstall the batteries and turn it back on. Check the date and time. If you got a restart appropriate, they should be set to zero.

  If you do not have a proper restart, you can use the same procedure, but instead of pressing the shutter button just leave the battery for about an hour. This should allow any residual power to drain it and cause a complete reset, too.

  It can erase some of the settings you have made inadvertently, causing problems. Or it can erase a statement stuck in memory, string just as restarting a computer clears its memory and help it work better. (After all, devices digital photo is essentially the laptops. )

  You might also consider relocation (upgrade, if necessary) the camera firmware. Sometimes, it can be damaged and giving problems. If you go to the website of Canon and research for 30 days, in the software category and downloads you will find the latest version of the software for the camera and instructions on how to install it. Follow the instructions carefully. It is not difficult, but it must be done according to the instructions, or there is a risk of "bricking" of the camera.

  Finally, it could be a bad communication between the camera and lens. Some flashes use data of distance from the lens to help the force of the power of the flash. Remove the lens and clean the contacts. Usually the best way to proceed is to wipe the contacts Golden at the rear of the lens with a clean cloth which is slightly moistened with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (rubbing cheap alcohol is fine). Just pay attention to leave the lens optics and do not touch the mirror inside the front of the camera or the screen right above the mirror.

  Also, you can check the pins 'spring' corresponding to the contacts on the lens to work correctly. Gently press on each spindle and watch it springs in place. Sometimes, these can be sticky, causing problems of communication between the camera and the lens.

  Factory default of compensation and/or reboot the camera that you will lose a few other settings you did and you will need to go into the menu to manually redo all the parameters you use regularly.

  All these are things you can do yourself and which costs nothing to try. They may or may not help. If so, great. If not, you will need to have a repair technician look at the camera. Either find someone local who can work on it or send it to Service Dept. Canon

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• 4310G external Flash Data queue access

  Hi all

  I use a G 4310 with DMM (both on 5.4), and I'm trying to use an external data file to learn the dynamics, text, and image variables.

  If I use this configuration with a regular browser, it does not work unless I have add security exceptions that allow external data file access. Is this a possible cause for this works only not with the DMP? is there a part of the DMP that must be configured to allow this?

  For the test, I use to play HTML / Flash section available from loggind directly in the dmp via its IP address.

  I put the URL in as follows:

  Browser and Flash playback

  Reading URL: http://***:80/content/aa2683af-BC33-4A9F-8C00-f095754307a6.swf  

  Flash settings only

  Flash variable: Data_Url =http://***/***/***/data.txt

  I'm sure that's the right way to put those URL to, but the flash file fails to load dynamic content during playback on the DMP.

  Can anyone help with this?

  Thanks in advance!

  Luke.

  You may need to define a domain policy to allow your flash access and consume data hosted on a local server files. You can do this by placing an XML file called crossdomain.xml in the root of your web server. It should look like this:

  http://www.Adobe.com/XML/DTDs/cross-domain-policy.DTD">."

  In this case, we allow the access all areas using the generic specification, but you might want to restrict that.

  I hope this helps.

  -Michael