Correction for Canon EF-S 18-135 IS USM lens

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• extension for Canon 6 d tube

  Hello, I'm looking for an extension tube for my Canon 6 d. I found a few different brand offering a set 13, 21 and 31 mm sets. They don't specify if they support the auto focus. I would have preferred a set that support of the auto focus.

  Do you have a suggestion? Thank you

  The tube macro set that includes the rather odd size 13mm, 21mm and 31mm made by Zeikos and sells a whole bunch of different brands (Bower, Vivitar, Jessops, ProOptic and many others). There are two qualities of these tubes, one with metal bayonet comes up and a less expensive version with plastic bayonet rises (as have some kit lenses). The bodies of these tubes are plastic and they support control AF and openness. All the facts for Canon will be fit very well on the your 6 d EF mount (someone with a Canon of harvest/EF-S camera will have to take care to buy later versions of these that support this mount if they want to use with the EF-S lenses, some more before those who do not). These tubes to sell for less than $100 US (the bayonet plastic are often closer to US $50). Three things worry me to their subject: they seem not very durable, I've heard some reports of their cracking over time. Release latch is a little beyond and can be accidentally pressed. And I've seen a few reports of them "frying" the circuits of the Canon 5 d models. The latter seemed to be very isolated cases and 31 mm tube seemed the culprit. I have not seen all the reports of problems with other Canon models.

  Opteka is doing a set of tube which is similar in construction - plastic body with mount bayonet metal - which also sells for less than $100 USD, but includes more traditional formats of the tubes of 12 mm, 20 mm and 36 mm. They also support the AF control and openness. The release button is slightly off, but I haven't used these and can't tell if it's much better that the tubes Ziekos (etc.). They are a relatively new feature, so only time will tell how sustainable they are.

  The Kenko tubes set's metal body and metal bayonet mounts, more comparable to the tubes that Canon are available (but only individually). Kenko all contained 12mm, 20mm and 36mm and sells for about $200 US. Older versions of this set (labeled "CA/AF") are the only mount EF lenses. Current version marked ' CA/AFs' (note the small 's') is used with the EF and EF-S. Of course, either will work on 6 d and EF lenses. The Kenko tubes also support the AF control and openness.

  Canon offers only individual tubes: 12 mm and 25 mm. The older original type are EF. The current 'Mark II' are EF a EF-S compatible. The construction is very similar to the Kenko and totally supports the AF control and openness. Indeed, Kenko also offers individual tubes in the same size. Both the Canon and the Kenko use a release button recessed enough that it is difficult to accidentally fall. Currently, the Canon tubes sell for about $85 for the 12mm and $140 for the 25mm.

  Finally, there are macro extension tubes really inexpensive who do not have electronic contacts to provide the AF control and openness. They are usually all metal construction, use different locking mechanisms and sell for less US $25 (sometimes even less than $10). Sizes included in a set usually are 12 mm, 20mm and 36mm.

  To be honest, who doesn't not AF during macro shooting is not really all that big a deal. It is often easier to focus manually blows high magnification. I often switch off AF and several of my macro lenses are put to manual focus only. Focus you by moving all camera and lens more closely or to keep him away from the subject. The lens ring, kind of serves more as a zoom, defining the degree of expansion. The fine adjustment of the development is done with the movement of the whole platform. This can be done by hand, or there are tools such as the stages of macro development prevail. allowing that with a high degree of accuracy... or with a lens that has a tripod mounting ring, if you use the Arca-Swiss quick release system, it is possible to use a plate of extra long lens like a development of "slider".

  More of concern is the ability to directly control the aperture, which is done electronically with gun and camera objectives, through controls on the camera body and the electronic contacts linking the two. High magnification means shallow depth of field, closing the diaphragm is often necessary. There are ways to vary the opening with the really cheap tubes that do not have electronic contacts, even with the modern camera and lens. But it's a pain in the anus. Personally, I would only use and recommend the really cheap tubes for use on adapted lenses, vintage which have a control ring of the aperture on the lens itself.

  But most tubes discussion (Canon, Kenko, Zeikos/etc. and Opteka) provide electronic contacts, so control AF and the opening are fully supported.

  What purpose do you intend to use with the camera and extension tubes? More focal length, the extension you will need to significantly increase the magnification. But too short focal length can put you too close to the subject. Mostly for use on a FF camera a lens in the 70mm to 135mm range is a good compromise of adequate working distance, but handholdable and not requiring not too much expansion. You can stack many tubes for a whole bunch of extension, but it can become risky with too many tubes. Best to use as little as possible.

  I'm a big fan of extension tubes... were their use with various systems for 25 + years and always have some on hand just in case they are needed. They can also improve the ability to narrow focus of a large telephoto lens. They are easy to use and having no light inside, have little negative effect on the quality of the image.

  I currently use with my kit Canon Canon 12 mm (2 X), 25mm and an older set of Kenko. Over the years, I have used lenses from 20 mm to 500 mm, 24-70, 70-200 and 28-135 mm Zoom. I sometimes use with macro lenses, too... to stimulate their magnification higher that 1:2 or 1:1 the lens alone offers.

  My recommendation... Buy a good game and you're going to buy them only once. There is little wear and macro extension tubes are versatile, useful and easy to slip into the corner of your camera with you bag all the time.  IMO the Kenko game offers the best value (but I have not seen or used the new Opteka set has been presented, so can't really compare).

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Windows 7 x 64 Driver for Canon i9100 printer

  When I try to install my Canon i9100 printer on my HP laptop running Windows 7 Professional 64 bit, Windows is unable to locate a driver.  Visit the Canon Website, I find an update for Windows driver module.  Cannon wrote that the printer MUST be installed using Windows Updater before their update of the driver can be installed.  I tried everything, but I can not get Windows to find a driver.  Windows Update says that my computer is Up To Date.

  What I am doing wrong?

  Thank you

  David

  I'm also not able to install the necessary drivers from Microsoft to connect my Canon i9100 printer.  Can you direct me to the correct driver site?  I have a windows 7 64-bit operating system.

  When Canon says that "your printer must be installed through Microsoft Update before you download and use this module", this does not mean you should run Windows Update (or Microsoft Update).

  The Support Engineer's view is not correct: Windows Update can't find a new driver for a device that is not yet installed.

  A, Normal mode

  What does the message mean, is that your computer must be connected to the Internet when you try to install the Canon i9100.  When you connect the printer, Windows should search for a driver.  When it cannot find a driver locally, you should get a pop-up message asking permission to connect to Windows Update to search for a driver.  You should allow this.  Windows should then find the driver online, download it and complete the installation.

  If this does not work, you can get the driver in one of two ways.

  B. manually through Windows Update.

  1. Unplug the printer from the computer
  2. Click Start > devices and printers
  3. Click "add a local printer.
  4. Click "Use an existing port" and leave the default to LPT1, and then click Next
  5. Select the Canon in the list of manufacturers
  6. Confirm that there is no entry for the i9100 in the list of printers, and then click 'Windows Update'
  7. Wait... This may take some time... when it's done, check the i9100 is now listed
  8. Leave the printer Installation Wizard
  9. Connect the printer to a USB port and it should now install correctly

  C. go to the Windows Update Catalog

  Even if the above methods should work, you also learned how to https://catalog.update.microsoft.com/v7/site/Home.aspx using Internet Explorer only , and search for "Canon i9100.  You should get 5 hits.  Click on each of the drivers for Windows 7.  Look at the line that reads "Architecture."  If you have Windows 7 32 bit, you need the x 86 version.  If you have Windows 7 64 bit, you need the AMD64 version.  The procedure to install a driver got that way is a bit complex.  If the methods A or B do not work, post to get further instructions.

• Could not find target for Canon profile 10-18mm lens.

  Hi, I have LR CC. When I click Activate profile correction LR is not able to find the profile for Canon 10-18mm. Selects the Canon 10-22mm instead. I was going on the lens profile support list and it is said that 10-18mm is supported to LR 5.6V. Then why can't I see in my LR? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

  [Left the forum Cloud/Installer generic for program specific forum... MOD]

  Hello kar,

  Please follow the below thread related to the same issue.

  Why can I not see my camera calibration profiles

  Default locations of Lightroom 5

  It will be useful,

  ~ Mohit

• Possible to specify no lens correction for some lenses

  Hello.  It is possible to specify no lens correction for some lenses (such as fisheye) while using 'default' or 'auto' for the correction of the goal?  If there is no built-in feature to support this, it would be possible to change manually the profiles included for the specific lens to achieve the same effect?  In addition, the profiles included location?  Thank you.

  You can set the "default settings" for each objective separately.

  Lightroom 4

  1 Select an image taken with the lens, 2) go to "correction lenses and sele ctthe tab ' profile»(, 3) set"Distotion"both vignetting" to "0" and 4) click on the arrows next to "Setup" and select "Save new lens profile by default."

  Lightroom 3

  Same as above, but also the value "Aberration C." '0' If you want.

  For most of my lenses I 0 ' distortion' and 'Vignetting' 50 and change it only on images that seem to need it. That's just my preference, yours may differ. For my Canon 8-15mm I sometimes use distortion "control if I'm changing the 'fisheye look'. I generally use PS Adaptive Filter of wide angle and Fisheye-Hemi plugin for this purpose.

• Where can find lens profile correction for EF 17-35 f/2. 8 the goal using ACR 6.2?

  Using Photoshop CS5 Extended on iMac 10.6.4.

  I work with wedding photos taken by a friend, but I can't find the profiles of correction lens for Canon EOS 20 d or the EF 17-35 f/2. 8 the goal. When I search online, he said simply «no profiles found online» Is there a download for old profiles of goal? I checked and I'm using ACR 6.2. I don't have the camera so there is no way to take test shots to create my own profile. But it should not be an available profile; the camera is not old?

  I don't know why you keep referring the 20 d. As long as the crop factor is the same than your 20 d model camera is not serious. If the lens profile on any Canon camera with a 1.6 crop factor, it works perfectly with your 20 d. However, as noted above, the goal didn't has not been profiled by Adobe for any camera model and it seems that no one in the community of users has created a no more.

  FWIW, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for someone else to create a. Since your Rebel XSi has a 1.6 crop factor, you can use it to create your own profile.

• How can I stop auto correct for some words?

  How can I stop auto correct for some words?

  Here's a great explanation and solution:

  mamadi http://coolestguidesontheplanet.com/turn-AutoCorrect-OSX-Mac-mail-Skype-10-9-MAV.

• is driver for canon pixma mp800 included with windows 8?

  is driver for canon pixma mp800 included with windows 8?

  Bring out of the canon site

• I put live electronic windows on my computer. All my settings are correct for my pop account, but have problems to receive me mail. can you help me?

  I put live electronic windows on my computer. All my settings are correct for my pop account, but have problems to receive me mail. can you help me?

  Hello

  The question you have posted is related to Windows Live; This is why it would be better suited in the Windows Live community. Please visit the link below to find a community that will provide the best support.

  http://www.windowslivehelp.com/product.aspx?ProductID=15

  http://www.windowslivehelp.com/

• Windows 7 continues to ask drivers for Canon Rebel _

  Windows 7, asking drivers for Canon Rebel

  How your question is related to Windows Update (compared to the Windows upgrade)?

  Contact the Canon Support. ~ Robear Dyer (PA Bear) ~ MS MVP (that is to say, mail, security, Windows & Update Services) since 2002 ~ WARNING: MS MVPs represent or work for Microsoft

• I need lenses for Canon 6 d

  Hello

  I just bought my 6 d with EF 24-105mm f / 4L IS USM lens. I'm new in the world of photography canon so I'm still confused about what lenses should I own suits my needs. I need especially my goal to take pictures at my gym where I teach karate classes, the room is about 50 * 50 feet, I am planing to take pictures for the students, while peferoming karate moves so I want to take pictures for the whole team that for sure needs a wide-angle lens but I know not the focal length I need and if it has zoom the goal or not. Addinng to this use I need as well to take pictures for my new born baby and occations of my other child such as birthdays, school events...

  Thank you in advance

  I might consider getting the EF 50 mm f1/.4 USM.

  I imagine that you will use this to capture images of students performing moves - they are 'on the move '.

  During motion capture, you can (a) use a shutter speed faster to 'freeze' the action, or (b) use a slightly slower shutter speed to allow the image implies a sense of motion blur (and sometimes, it's actually a more compelling.)

  Photograph of Interior with faster shutter speeds is delicate, because usually the light is weak (Fortunately the 6 d has a high ISO range.)  But it helps to have a goal which collects naturally much more light.

  Your 24-105mm lens has a maximum ratio of focal f/4.  The report describes the number of times the diameter of the free opening in the lens (opening) can be divided into the focal length.  This means that to, say, 100mm... the aperture of the lens is able to dilate and 25mm wide and 25mm is divided into 100mm exactly four times, it is a lens ' f/4' (the aperture blades may contract smaller... the value printed on the lens always describe the report using the largest possible opening size.)

  A 50mm f/1.4 lens collects literally EIGHT times more light.  This means that he can use a shutter speed to eight times faster than the 24-105mm... or it can use a lower ISO setting (to reduce the 'noise' in the image).

  I am also considering a lens based on subject framing.  You can use the calculator 'dimensions of field' on this Web site: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm

  So imagine that you want to capture a student doing a kick in which you believe, you will need a framework at least 10' high.  You can use the calculator to determine what focal length of a given distance, you'll need to capture that.  If I plug a 50mm lens, guess I'll be 20' away from the student, and then I can plug these two values.  There is a third value, which is the "focal length multiplier" (also known as the "crop factor").  Your 6 d is a "full frame" camera, which means that the factor of cropping (or multiplier) is always exactly '1' (if you had a camera with a sensor size of APS - C... a little... then your crop factor sensor would be 1.6).

  If I access the '50' for the focal length of the lens, '1' to multiply the focal length and '20' to my distance to the subject and click the "compute" button, it tells me that the physical framework of the distance dimensions is 9' 7.2 "high (in the vertical direction) and 14' 4.8" wide in the horizontal direction.  It is a comfortable (close enough to 10') frame to frame the subject and perhaps also their target.

  I could try other lenses too...  I could plug in 85mm as the focal length, but I try to change the distances to get a similar framing and I discovered that at 85mm, I really need about 35 feet away (instead of 20' far away.)

  You can imagine how go to higher focal lengths will be able to get to a point where you run lack of space in your room 50' because if your subject is in the middle of the room, you have about 25' and your back is against the wall, trying to get this shot.  That's why... I think that 50mm is probably a good lens (again this is based on the assumption that you want to capture a vertical height of approximately 10'.)

  A bit of caution... When you use a lens with a report f / d below, the depth of field (an imaginary Beach distances to your intended focus distance over which subjects seem to be in acceptable focus) becomes narrower.

  With a 50mm using f/1.4 lens and a lens focused at a distance of 20', the 'depth of field' is a little over 4' thick... distance of 18.1 ' through 22.3 ' will appear to be reasonably acceptable point.

  Compare that to f/4 (using the same focal length and 20' 50 mm) and the depth of field is 12.7 ' thick... distance of 15.5 ' through 28.2 ' are in acceptable focus.

  You can see that, while the report f / f/1.4 d collect eight times more light, it happens to a compromise in the depth of field (btw, a lot of people really LIKE the blurred background and do their best to get the effect).

  If your subject distance changes, then you'll want to use the mode of development of "AI Servo" (instead of the mode of development of the default camera 'One Shot') which causes the camera constantly reevaluate and tweak attention than your distance to the subject changes (in 'One Shot' mode it will carry only until she Achieves a lock... and then stops focusing even if your subject is moving and distance) is no longer valid.)

  Flash: You ask about flash, but I thought I would offer this because it's something I would probably consider doing in this situation.

  It becomes a bit complicated because of the 'synchro-flash max' speed (on the 6 d speed is 1/180th second shutter speed)  This is not fast enough to 'freeze' the action if this action is at a relatively high speed.

  The camera uses two "curtains" (doors) that slide on the sensor.  When taking a picture, you open to start the show... a moment later, the second, are closed.  The doors have a maximum speed of physics that they can move to open or close.  On your camera, a shutter speed of 1/180th second or slower allows a door to open COMPLETELY, then the flash (Exhibitor the entire sensor to light) and then close the second door.  A speed faster than 1/180th requires that the second door already begin before the end of the first opening of the closing door.  So to create pictures of high speed, the first door left open but the second door begins suite - expose really just a "slot" of light that sweeps the sensor.  This allows your camera to use shutter speeds that are faster that the doors can actually move.  If a flash fire when there is only a slit exposed, while part of the sensor exposed by this crack Gets the benefit of the light.

  It deals with issues like a flash that support the mode "sync high speed ' with enough power for multiple light chips needed when using high-speed sync.   This means pulse flash quickly because the shutter works so well that each part of the sensor has Flash.  But as the flash needs to perform several bursts, then single burst may trigger the 'full' power because the flash has book enogh power for all the necessary pieces.  It is useful to have a powerful flash in particular (as Canon 600EX-RT).

  You can also use mode "sync second curtain" If you normally involves movement... when using a flash, the first door opens, then flash fires... and wait for the camera on the amount of time needed for your show time... and THEN close the second door.  But if something is moving, it means you get a bright subject (in flash) and then the ambient light continues to bring a bit of light on your subject that continues to shift.  This dimmer light on the moving subject creates a ghost trail... but the trail is "in front" of your subject, rather than 'behind' your topic - following, so it seems a little strange.

  "Second curtain" mode involves the camera to delay the release of the flash, just before the second door closes.  This puts this drag ghost 'behind' your topic.

  BTW, this second option (which implies the query using a flash on mode "on the 2nd curtain sync" while using a slow shutter speed deliberately) also helps the camera much better capture the background exposure of the room (we call this technique "dragging the shutter" because we deliberately use a slower than necessary shutter speed when using a flash).

• The highest recording quality for Canon Vixia HF R500?

  What is the recording of high quality for Canon Vixia HF R500?

  Is it AVCHD 60 p 28 Mbps or 60 p 35 Mbps MP4?

  The MP4 format high sampling rate means that it is of a higher quality recording or not?

  Greg

  Hi Greg_Jay!

  Thank you for posting.

  The highest quality is MP4 60 p 35 Mbps.  As a general rule, the higher bit, better is the quality.

• What is the best lens kit for Canon lenses cleaning/formula?

  My lenses need cleaning bad! I use the Canon T3i and the 18-55 kit lens and 55-250, 50 F 1.8

  willfoxylove wrote:

  My lenses need cleaning bad! I use the Canon T3i and the 18-55 kit lens and 55-250, 50 F 1.8

  What kind of dirty? Hit by a splash of muddy water and you hunt elephants? Or a more down to Earth 'footprints on my front element' dirty? So late, you can use a little liquid and a wipe of lens for lens cleaning tissue. Blow gently in the dirt with a blower of squeeze and lightly sweep any 'chunks' tenacious with a fine brush for lenses, usually sold as a combination tool. Repeat as needed until you are lint or grease issues, then use the liquid and dry.

• Driver for Canon Pixma IP4600 printer

  I had to reinstall Windows on my PC due to obtaining a bad virus.  My Canon Pixma IP4600 printer worked before the re - install, but now windows can't find a driver.  I spoke to Canon and they said that they offer is no longer supported, but Windows should continue to support and drivers must come from there.  I tried a driver through Control Panel, but it is said that a driver is not available.  This printer is not that old, so I can't believe that there is no driver available to all.  Can you help me please?

  I'm sorry, but as I explained Microsoft does not write drivers for Canon products.

  Microsoft writes and provides drivers for their own products.

  All drivers that Microsoft may provide in their OS for Canon products provided by Canon.

  I suggest that contact you Canon and get them to set this output or first try the Vista drivers.

  Kind regards.

• 64-bit driver for Canon imageCLASS D860 all-in-One Printer

  someone at - he found a driver 64 bit Windows 7 that works for Canon imageCLASS D860 all-in - One Printer?

  someone at - he found a driver 64 bit Windows 7 that works for Canon imageCLASS D860 all-in - One Printer?

  Canon does not support that particular product under Windows 7 x 64.

  They argue as well, "Canon imageCLASS D860: this product is compatible with Windows 7 32-bit." There are no drivers for Windows 7 64-bit. "and"No 64 bit drivers are currently available for this product SOHO.

  Unfortunately - Canon has decided that this particular product is a legacy.