EF 85mm 1.8 (not "L")

Similar Questions

• Vs 10-22mm EF - S 15-85mm

  I got some great responses and advice here, so I'm back for more ():

  Yet once, I just bought a Rebel T3i with the kit with 18-55mm lens. I recently asked some suggestions of lens to the subject that the majority when I take pictures of scenery, but I always take pictures like sports, portraits and cityscapes. In addition to this, I'll take a trip to Las Vegas and Los Angeles this summer, so one of my goals then there I made pictures of night the lights of the city. I have no knowledge on taking pictures at night, but I'll do some research and I'll try to learn everything quickly and efficiently.
  That being said, a lot of people here recommended that I get the lens EF-S 10-22mm lens. Others also recommended the EF-S 15-85mm lens. I studied the two lenses and they both seem perfect for the type of photos I take and I would like to buy both, but I'm a bit on a budget.
  Which I think is should I keep the kit 18-55mm lens and add the 10-22 mm, or turn it around and get the 15-85mm and more 18-55? or the third option and sell the kit 18-55mm lens and buys the 15-85mm?

  I don't like the combination 10-22mm and 15-85mm... With only a couple of lenses in your kit, it's too much overlap. If it were me, here's what I'd do...

  1. get the 10-22 mm USM (news of $650, $500 or less... most used lens hood $32 OEM 3rd party $ 20...) In total, 520 $ to $680)

  2. selling the 18-55 mm (you probably won't get much money for it, probably less than $100, depending on the version.) The IS is newere & better than the non - IS version. The STM & IS version is more recent and better than the version IS).

  3 buy a used EF 28-135 mm IS USM. There was so much of these sold in kit that they are pretty easy to find lightly used for about 200 $ to 250 $ US. This isn't really a kit lens, but an older design that still works fine. It competes with the much more expensive 24-105L ($1150 new, $700 + used) for performance and image quality, just is not as well built or sealed. I have two of these lenses... it cost me less than $200 with hood OEM. The other cost me $250 with OEM hood and a high-quality, filter 72mm (about $75 value).

  I'm pretty confident you could do everything above for well under $ 1,000 and have a quite versatile 2 lens kit. I think between $720 and $930, depending on how you buy and offers you find. If you sell your 18-55mm lens kit for a few dollars, which would reduce your total cost a bit. If I remember your previous posts, you had a budget of about $1000 total.

  If you also want a lens ' portrait/low light', add an EF 50/1.8 II for about $125. Or better yet, get an EF 50/1.4 USM, which sells for about $340 News (on sale currently at B & H Photo), $300 or less used. Add an another $ 15 to $ 26 for the sun visor ES - 71 II, if it was not included. (Note: with this lens, you must obtain and use the visor.) When he shot protects the front body of work. If it is kept in the reverse position, the hood covering and protecting the focus ring. This goal is known to have a fragile development mechanism, but seems to do just fine if he gave these protections normal and reasonable. He also recommended of is not to do a lot of manual focus the substitution of the AF with this lens. My copy of the lens is 10 years and still going.)

  The 50/1.8 II is a good entry level lens. It is capable of very beautiful images and a useful introduction to use a first large aperture lens. But it is very slightly built and plasticky and its autofocus is slow, noisy and somewhat contradictory. 50/1.4 has progressively better image quality, the differences are subtle, but there less flare, better contrast, saturation of the colors better, blurry background more pleasant. More importantly, it's AF is probably much better even if it's an old design and a hybrid of USM.

  The optical zoom combo above would give you enough in-depth coverage from 10mm to 135mm, which is actually more than most photographers film never appreciated with their SLRs in the good old days. Many of them had a 50mm with their camera lens, has added a wide angle of 28mm and zoom 70-210mm from the TV. It's a very common kit. On your T3i, 10mm to 135mm is equivalent to 16mm to 216mm on film/full frame.

  Now, I don't mind a bag of camera with some lenses. I do it all the time. However, you are traveling you may prefer to wear only a single lens, for convenience and simplicity. The EF-S 15-85mm USM IS would be a very good choice for this. It has a picture quality excellent and very good all around performance. It is a goal of $700 new, or about $550 used. The lens hood EW-78 that he sells for another $ 15 to $ 30.

  The 15-85mm is a lens very nice, quite wide at one end and portrait ideal coating short focal length telephoto lens at the other end of the zoom... There is a big difference between 10mm and 15mm wide. And 85mm is generally not going to be long enough for the sport. (135mm is better, but isn't really long enough way or the other, then either you should start saving for a longer lens).

  If you are in the United States, I would say looking at large retailers online (Amazon, B & H Photo, Adorama) new issues. Used for, those also to work, more there KEH in Atlanta. Also check out the Canon online store. He is sometimes handed to nine drinks there, too. Refurb and used from these sources usually come with some kind of guarantee. Sometimes, it is just as good as a new guarantee of the order of the day, other times it's a bit less time.

  On-site, for used items check on Craigslist... but be very careful. Only meet in a safe place (inside a hall of bank or busy coffee shop), grab your camera and test something to make sure it works, before giving money. There is no guarantee with the purchase of this way!

  A third possibility... If you don't have much use for it after your trip, you could rent a 10-22mm for those Vegas and visit. However, I think you have mentioned an interest in landscape photography and the current urban landscape, shooting... that I suggest that you will want to purchase to the objective rather than rent it.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Correction of the lens and Raw or JPEG

  Please bear with me, I'm sometimes a little slow.

  I just loaded JPEG one friend in ACR, to see if I could fix the distortion. The image has no EXIF. The list of lenses Nikon-fit was much shorter that usual - is that because it is a JPEG, rather than a raw file?

  I was surprised that the 16-85mm lens was not in the list, as I know that it has been added to the point 6.2. After hunting for PCL files, I see that there is a RAW version only, so this fits in my guess. So, my next question is: why Adobe provides two profiles with a few drinks (raw + jpeg) and the other with others?

  I gave up to the cab and loaded the JPEG in CS5. In the CS5 lens Corrections, I was allowed to assign a raw profile only to my JPEG. It is good, but why am I here and not in ACR?

  And a smaller, but nevertheless niggling question and maybe a little off-topic, why optical Correction CS5 is offering "NIKON" and "NIKON CORPORATION" as a brand of camera, when others have only one entry?

  Yammer P, yes the list is shorter because it's a jpeg rather than crude oil, and we have several profiles for raw to jpeg.

  For all of the lenses supported in the initial release of CS5, we have created profiles for both first and jpeg. Since then, we have focused on profiles of lenses based on the crus, for various reasons (which is that we feel that we always deliver the best results of quality in this way). That of why you see some lenses supported with raw & jpeg profiles, but much more taken support with raw only.

  Correction of the plugin CS5 lens indeed allow you to choose the lens focused on the raw profiles even if it treats a file made (for example, jpeg, tiff). This will work in some cases many (but not all) for the distortion correction, but often is malfunctioning for chromatic aberration and vignette correction. I do not recommend this workflow and is a key reason we don't let the users/layout in ACR and LR.

  Eric

• 5 Lightroom does not seem to support Sigma 85mm?

  5 Lightroom does not seem to support the Sigma 85 mm. someone on DP Review said that he made. Please notify.

  The following profiles are available in LR 5.2RC:

  

  IF YOU SHOOT IN RAW.

  If you shoot JPEG, well... you can create your own or wait for someone to do it for you.

• Canon t5i, 50mm f1.4 and 85mm f1.8?

  Hey guys im new SLR digital. I recently bought my Canon Rebel t5i with the 18-135mm lens. Now, I want to upgrade a little to take pictures of family, etc.. I don't have to buy the 50mm f1.4 or the 85mm 1.8 Please help.

  I think you'll like both... a 29mm lens provides a 'normal' angle of view (neither wide nor TV)... so the two are a bit in the TV category.  The 85mm will be closer to the point where you need to go back further to frame a shot and for use indoors, it may be narrower than what you want.  Both offer a very nice quality to the blurred background.

  A 85mm will provide liked blur the same... opening value but the 50mm will be a little more versatile for indoor use (since you do not going back quite so far in order to frame the shot.)

  You can go to pixelpeeper.com to draw the sample images (they index Flickr images as long as the image has EXIF data camera & lens in there).

  You could also rent to see than what you prefer.

• My Nikon Lens profile is not available in Lightroom CC 2015.7

  Hello

  When I activate the profile correction, my sense profile is not available. I don't understand because it's a common sense for Nikon
  (Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm F3. 5 - 4.5 G ED VR). I look in the folder for profiles of lenses (at the library) and the profile is available for D700 (I shoot with D610).

  The profile would have worked, but somehow, it is not available in the drop-down list in the pan of lens Corrections.

  What to do next.

  Aim profiles are specific to RAW and JPG images. Also try to uncheck 'enable Corrections profile '.

  

• Apple Watch activity is not in the cloud?

  So, I've been using a Apple Watch for a while and my number one problem is that 'Activity', I put together for the last year is not sync with the iCloud, so when I upgraded my iPhone 6 to iOS10 all my activity watch is gone. I tested this point last week and it seems that "Activity" app does not synchronize your data in the cloud, so if you lose your phone or your watch you will have to start all over again and latest data are lost. This seems to be a huge concern when I spend all this time my overall follow-up and progress. Everyone see what happens if you put to level or restart/reset your watch or your phone?

  Hello

  Health and historical activity data is stored on your iPhone. It is not recorded separately in iCloud.

  To guard against data loss, be sure to make regular backups of your iPhone.

  If the backup via iTunes, make sure to select the option to encrypt iPhone backup (unencrypted backup excludes the sensitive data, including health and activity). iCloud backups are encrypted as standard.

  More information:

  The backup of your iPhone, iPad and iPod touch - Apple Support

• iTunes will not regroup under the name of artist albums

  I noticed at the bar on the left with the artists, sometimes there are twice, the same artist, with each having only some of the albums and I can't group all albums under the name of an artist to the bar.for some artists can't do, but I did it because some others.anyone know what to do?

  If you see unexpected songs groups when you browse an album - https://support.apple.com/HT204538 - 'songs from the same album may not be grouped as expected when you view them in display Albums in iTunes."

  For most people this solution seems to be one that works: August 2008 post by turingtest2 temporarily change labels - https://discussions.apple.com/message/7904806#7904806 or http://www.samsoft.org.uk/iTunes/merge.asp - add a letter at the end of the name of the artist, close the read information, then open it again and remove the letter. This works often but I had cases where securities combined when a letter has been added but divorced when he was kidnapped again.

  The following sections provide additional solutions:

  Often a solution: select all the tracks on the album, file > info (or right-click > news > Details) and give them all a single "album artist", or check the indicator of "compilation" (as in https://discussions.apple.com/message/17670085#17670085).

  Steve MacGuire alias turingtest2 - iTunes and iPod tips and tricks - grouping beaches in Albums - http://www.samsoft.org.uk/iTunes/grouping.asp (old post on Apple Discussions http://discussions.apple.com/message/9910895#9910895)

  If they are several CD sets, you will also need to enter the appropriate information in the fields of number of disk.  If they are not a set of multiple CDs that you must always make sure any vacuum or disc number fields are properly defined.

  Another explanation of hhgttg27 August 2015 - https://discussions.apple.com/message/27784417#27784417

  If they are mp3 files are trying to change the version of the ID3 tag, which can cause iTunes to re - write the tags and clarify inconsistencies.  I use iTunes 7.5 (Yes, from 2007) so I can't tell you where it is in later versions.

  I had a case of grouping stubborn reality.  The tracks will be re-group in a way that has no meaning when I changed metadata.  Without going into details, I deleted tracks iTunes completely, then add the files and they are all grouped together correctly.

• Why my notes sync between my Mac and iPhone?

  I have my MacBook Pro with Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks and my iPhone is running iOS 10.0.1 and used to synchronize my notes! Is it because of the huge gap in operating systems? I SHOULD update my Mac to Mac OS 10.10 + for this problem? Thank you!

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  But this requires macOS Sierra 10.12, the latest available version and the last iOS available for your iPhone.

• iPhone 7 more buttons outside does not

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  The couple spent time he did, he came upon her in about 4-5 minutes, however it was about half an hour and still nothing. I want to restart my phone, but the switch does not work.

  Has anyone seen this issue or know how to fix?

  Thanks in advance.

  I just experienced the same problem on my iPhone 7, I think it's a bug in iOS, but I am using iOS 10.0.2. Power + button low Volume allowed me to turn it off then turn it back on... Apple please fix this bug!

• Why video does not work in safari

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  Do you get any error messages? If this is not the case, see if by double clicking the home button and drag to the top safari help. -AJ

• Reminders do not display or stick to the lock screen in iOS10

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  It is a major issue for people who depend on the application for the important tasks and calendar. There is a thread of any discussion on this point, for some reason, has been marked as "solved" even if a large number of people continues to post telling him that there is a problem for them too (as the thread located here). I wanted to start this new discussion which we hope will remain open until it is effectively resolved.

  Thank you!!! This is a HUGE problem!

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• I need to change my security issues and said we do not have enough information to reset your

  I need to change my security but said Questions we have insufficient information to reset security of your apple ID questions.my is [email protected] I want to slove this problem please help me

  You should contact the account of Apple security team. To join, click here and choose a method; If this page does not list one for your country or if you are unable to call, complete and submit this form.

  (145174)

• iPod not recognized by iTunes?

  I have iTunes installed on a computer running Windows 10. iTunes is updated to the latest version since this morning.

  My iPod is a 7th generation Nano

  Here's what I've tried so far:

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  However, I don't have an Apple Mobile Device driver. I couldn't find two solutions to do this, which has been updated the driver on the iPod, which did nothing. Another option involved to restart the Apple Mobile Device Service. Who also did nothing.

  I also read that reformat the iPod through disk management has worked as well, but my iPod does not appear as a disk. In fact, it is not at all. iTunes opens when it is connected and says it cannot recognize it, but it does not appear under devices and readers.

  On a strange note, I have an unknown USB device under USB controllers in device management. Out of curiosity, I unplugged my iPod, uninstalled and plugged my iPod back, time in which the unknown device is returned. So I guess it's my iPod (in the unrecognized State). You know not so relevant.

  I am at one loss as to what else to do. The iPod still works, I can still listen to all music that has been synchronized to him before, but that's all.

  This just started today. Every other time I connected the iPod, it was immediately recognized by iTunes and worked well. Seems that the problem is the absence of the Apple Mobile Device driver, if I was not able to fix this.

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  If you have already tried to reinstall iTunes and manually delete specific things like the drivers, you can completely remove iTunes and related software components

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  Don't forget to uninstall the components all the listed in the described order.  Then, download and install the latest version of iTunes from here

  https://www.Apple.com/iTunes/

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  Help, please?

  This is not a mechanism supported by Apple to change the size of the Windows partition. Apple supports the remove/reinstall only.

  We try to remedy. Please after the release of the following OSX Terminal commands.

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  sudo TPG - vv - r see the/dev/disk0

  sudo fdisk/dev/disk0

  What is the model/year of the MBA? Please, do not post the serial number of your Mac. Orders 'sudo' will ask for your password.