EOS T3i - Autofocus problem

Similar Questions

• Help me with football at night on an Eos T3i

  I need help for the best shots of my Cannon Eos T3i night football games. Any suggestions?

  I'm going to assume that you have a photography course & don't really understand the basics of opening & shutter speeds. Your 70-300 is f5.6 WIDE OPEN with 300 mm zoom (it will become a fine f5.6 lens before reaching the 300 mm & maybe even before hitting 150 mm).

  Lens f stops relate to the amount of light, the lens CAN let in and dictate at what shutter speed is needed for ISO selected produce acceptable exposure. Because frost action requires faster shutter speeds, we will talk about the need to use 1/500 sec as the slowest acceptable speed for your night time football. NOW, we are talking about the DIRECT relationship between the shutter speed & opening. These settings produce the same exposure

  at f 2.8 shutter speed must be 1/500, but if the lens can open only at f4.0

  to f 4.0 (a full stop "slower" than f 2.8) you MUST lower the shutter speed to 1/250 second, but YOUR goal is a goal of f 5.6 (2 stops 'slower' than the f 2.8 lens)

  at f 5.6 you must slow down the shutter speed at 1/125 second, for the same amount of light for a correct exposure.

  BECAUSE 1/125 will freeze action your ONLY option is to increase the ISO, which introduces noise once it passes a certain point (which varies according to the age camera & original price point in a range of manufacturers.

  Again, there is a DIRECT relationship with ISO settings so let's start with the numbers to STOP FULL using ISO 100 as the basis. The numbering system is 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800 etc..

  IF you were to use your f 5.6 lens & the setting defined above, where the f 2.8 @ 1/500 has worked to say 800 ISO, a shooting game in the night, you need to bump the ISO to 1600 to turn the lens f 4.0-1/500 or all the way up to 3200 to shoot your objective f5.6 at 1/500

  All this is DONE, but there is another potential problem. Increase the ISO does not help the AF somehow. The AF will struggle to f 5.6 in the dark compared to how well a f 2.8 lens will allow it to work. Another factor is a combination of how the AF works in the lens. More expensive cameras have more money spent on improving the AF components & then make more expensive lenses. The will IS 70-300 L AF faster that the 70-300 regular IS who's going to move more quickly than the cheapest of the 70-300.

• Why is the option timer 2 sec unavailable on my camera Canon eos t3i-eos600d

  Why is the option of 2 sec timer not available for automatic shoot on my camera Canon eos t3i-eos600 settings? It is available on manual settings.

  cicopo wrote:

  The auto mode is a very limited way. Try to use the program until you learn how alternative you give more control.

  Think of it this way, Doug: "A" (Auto) mode is the "Windows 8" of photography. Like Windows 8 is designed to make your laptop or desktop display and behave like a cell phone, Auto mode is designed to make a serious device to behave as a point.

• Macro lens EOS T3i not turn or focus

  On my Canon EOS Rebel T3i, when I place the macro on the camera lens, it does not or focus (manually or automatically, if it is in auto or manual focus), almost like it is stuck. The zoom for the functions of this camera lens, normally when it is attached so I think it's a problem with the lens itself. Is there anything else I can try or is broken for good lens?

  Take a look at the solution in the following thread posted by Canon product Expert Julius.

  http://community.USA.Canon.com/T5/lenses/autofocus-not-working-18-55mm-lens/m-p/138114#U138114

  [EDIT]  This isn't a target macro, BTW.  The word 'macro' appears on the lens body to tell you what the MFD, minimum Distance of focus, or macro distance, is for this particular goal.

• Canon 5 d MKIII - autofocus problem

  :-) It will be only autofocuse in A + and NOT in any position. I ve tried with my 24 - 7mm and my canon 100-400 mm origianl lenses.

  What's wrong?? The camera is new from a 40 d... Did I miss something in the menu? and an upgrade to the latest firmware didn t solve the problem...

  Anyone have a solution?

  Thank you in advance...

  To change, you go to the menu C.Fn2 (2 of the 4 menu with the Orange camera symbol) the go to "Custom controls".  The first is the stock of the shutter. Press, select AF to measure.  I'm surprised that "Clearing all C.Fn ' didn't work, but then I never had to use it yet... .  Please let me know if this solves your problem.

• Rebel T3i Flash problem?

  Hi all

  I was recently given a T3i as a birthday gift.  I've been playing with the camera and have noticed a weird problem with the built-in flash.  She fires as expected when you use the viewfinder, but when using the screen live LCD or quick modes, popping up from flash flashes a busy screen, and try to take a picture will result in flash not firing and the camera all becomes unresponsive.  It will not respond to any key, except the menu and playback buttons, and it does not appear to turn on and off by switching the power switch.  These symptoms persist until I have remove and replace the battery.  Is - it so the camera is supposed to work?  I have read that you cannot use live modes with an external flash, but it also includes the bulit in one?

  Check the website to see if you have the latest firmware for the Canon camera.  He shouldn't be locked up in the way you described.

  I never used the fast mode on my T5.  And, I rarely use flash, simply because it is not very good beyond a distance of 5 to 10 feet and more than the typical kit lens, 18-55 mm, lenses tend to cast a shadow on the image.

• RAW files from my EOS T3i. My computer is Windows 7-64 bit.

  I want to use the Raw files from my EOS Rebel T3i. When I went to load the Canon driver to convert this it turns out there is no driver for my computer operaing system. I have a fairly normal computer with Windows 7-64 bit. They do support the 33 bit processing. There seems to be no support for Windows 8. Now what? Is there a driver outside sonversion, should I use instead? It's will be supported for Windows 8 in the near future?

  zetscha wrote:

  I want to use the Raw files from my EOS Rebel T3i. When I went to load the Canon driver to convert this it turns out there is no driver for my computer operaing system. I have a fairly normal computer with Windows 7-64 bit. They do support the 33 bit processing. There seems to be no support for Windows 8. Now what? Is there a driver outside sonversion, should I use instead? It's will be supported for Windows 8 in the near future?

  Default method of Windows 7 to display RAW files is to use the Canon RAW Codec, a utility that must be installed on the computer and that has (or had, I mean, I knew) No 64-bit version. For 64-bit Windows 7 cannot display files RAW except via a program, usually a photo editor, specified by the user.

  Windows 8 has its own conversion utility, the Microsoft Codec, which allows it to display different suppliers, including the Canon RAW files. The Microsoft Codec works on 32-bit versions and 64-bit of Windows 8. While the Microsoft Codec is used by default to display RAW images, the user can replace it with a photo editor, just like in Windows 7.

  None of this applies to the actual editing of RAW files. Many (most?) photo editors will run in 32-bit versions and 64-bit Windows 7 and Windows 8. An exception is the version 4 of Digital Photo Professional, which runs only under the 64-bit versions of operating systems.

• My biggest goal on my t5 eos not autofocus, help

  I have the canon eos rebel t5 and my smaller lens focuses very well but when I try to use the larger lens to take better pictures is focused quite

  "so I don't know what to do."

  OK, Kido, here's what to do.  Reset the default T5.  Move the T5 on 'P '.  Aim the AF switch.  Go outside on a brightly lit sunny day.  Try to focus the lens on an object at 25 or 30 feet on your part.  It's working now?  If so, there is nothing wrong with the goal.

  If this isn't the case, you must contact the Canon Support, but be warned that this goal is not a good candidate for repair if it is really defective.

• best settings for shooting outdoors? Canon rebel eos t3i

  my brother is getting married this Saturday the 15, it'll be a wedding in the open air at 4 pm Pacific time. The weather is sunny highs of 74 depressions 55 with a chance of flurries. What are the best GENERAL setting to record the ceremony? I am a newbie of camera so I don't know squat! any help would be greatly appreciated.

  Outside "Sun", I would like to use a flash.  The difference in the sunny vs parts of a shadow of your subjects will be extreme in the middle of the day sun, but the use of the flash ("fill-in flash") so that the outside is a great way to improve the appearance of a sudden.

  "Program" mode on the mode selector switch.

  Lift the pop-up flash (the small button near the mode dial with lightning bolt symbol unlock the catch hook and triggers the flash.)

  Note that when you look through the viewfinder to take a picture, there is some information on the background... which most is information on the exhibition.  But on the left side, you will see a little lightning icon.  If you see this icon, it means that the camera will use flash when you take the picture.

  In the basic modes, you have little control over when the camera will use the flash (it's automatic), but in the modes "creative zone" (program, Tv, Av and M), you have full control and can force the camera to use flash.    HOWEVER, using "program" mode is the same as the fully automatic mode (green box) * except * that you can replace several things that you can not override when using fully automatic.

  It would be much better if you had an external (for example like the Canon 430EX II) speedlite because the built-in pop-up flash is very limited (subjects must be ready for that flash have much effect).

  When I shoot outdoors (I also turns a wedding tomorrow), I put a feature called "Flash Exposure Compensation" to "-1".»  You can find instructions on this page 102 of your instruction manual (not the 'basic instructions manual"... the full version of the instruction manual for your camera.)  "Flash exposure corrections" asks the camera to determine how much it needs power flash (which is what it normally does), but then adjust the amount of energy upwards or downwards according to the level of "compensation" that you set.  The reason why I have dial down is that I don't want my pictures to have the look of people generally associated with photography flash... I want to still of the Sun to be the main source of light... and I want the flash to fill in deep shadow (located still have shadows... but they are going to be weak shadows instead of strong shadows).  This allows to improve lighting.

  When you go inside, you want to disable "flash exposure compensation" feature by assigning to '0' (zero, does not change the amount of flash - regardless of the camera wants to do).

• Can I wireless use a 430 EX II as a slave with the flash integrated the T3i EOS?

  I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can launch a remote speedlite wireless from the camera.  I get an error message cannot find the speedlite even if I set up my 430 EX II speedlite according to its instructions manual, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help

  Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can trigger remotely the speedlite.

  It of a little complicated and can be confusing.

  First... set the 430EX II in the correct mode.  Press and HOLD the 'Zoom' button for 2 seconds approximately.  This active a menu that allows you to put the flash is in a mode single-fash vs remote "slave".  Semicircular keys to switch to read 'slave '.  Press 'set' (in the middle of these buttons of a semicircle shape.)  I happen to have my 430EX II practical, but it must default to the slave 'A' channel '1 '.

  Now for the camera.

  On your camera menu, tab to the left (which we'll call 'Caméra Red #1' to distinguish it from other tabs) has 'Flash' control as the last option on this screen.  Either way for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is marked 'Flash Control'.  For devices that do NOT have the built-in pop-up flash, this menu is called "Flash speedlite external control.

  In this submenu (Flash control), make sure "Flash of fire" (the top option) is set to 'Enable' or 'CustWireless' - should NOT be set to 'disable' or nothing will work.

  You will see a menu choice for "external Flash func. parameter' (and also 'External flash C.Fn setting'.)  IGNORE THESE!  This is for the hot flashes that are in the camera hotshoe and do NOT control the remote flashes wireless.  This is probably where you were getting confused.

  Then go to "built-in flash func. the parameters' where, paradoxically, you get to control how your device communicates with your flash REMOTE (Yes, I know that this is not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it is your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicating with any flash slave remote.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (many people assume that it is a communication infrared - me is understood - at the end of the day, I learned that was incorrect and it's actually the visible light of the flash itself.)  He quickly sends communication to remote control by pulse codes to tell flash what to do remotely.  All this happens until the image is exposed and you'd swear the only blinked once eyes flash... but it turns out that it is actually very busy away from the impulse to connect).

  In the "func flash built-in. menu of settings"there are a number of things that you must set.

  If you set the flash mode built in 'EasyWireless' it will be gray on many other parameters... basically the camera automatically decides what he wants to do.  I think that the only definition not gray is the channel number (which must match the channel number on your flash.  Channel numbers helps you can draw on events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and have no conflicts where they are triggering your flashes and vice versa.

  If you set the flash mode built in "CustWireless" it allows you to set other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  In the end, it's probably mode you will use the most, once you get used to distance Speedlites.

  In CustWireless, the menu option 'Wireless' Func mode. becomes available.  This option allows you to decide if you want (I take these out of use for simplicity to explain):

  (a) speedlites both internal and external to the fire as a single group (icon external flash, a PLUS sign (+) and the camera icon)

  (b) the Speedlite flashes inside and outside to the fire, but allowing you to control the power RATIO (icon external flash, a COLON symbol ( and the camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.))

  (c) only external Speedlites (only the external flash icon is on this option - no icon on the device).

  I want to mention something about this external option only because it confuses most people initially.  The device communicates with the slave through the on-camera flash.  The flash on the camera quickly pulses to send the instructions for flashes to distance.  This means that to use the slave flashes, the on-camera flash must be addressed (in jumps - upward position).  If you ask for external flash only (without camera) the flash on the camera flashed only instructions BEFORE the opening of the shutter of the camera to take the exhibition.  When I started to learn from external Speedlite flashes, I saw the light on-camera flash and thought that my settings were ignored.  Do not worry... When you archive your images, you will see that there is no light provided by the on-camera flash during exposure... all this flashing comes before the opening of the shutter.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes triggered only once... but in reality they are actually much of 'talk' before taking the picture, but this happens at an incredible speed.

  And one last comment... because the camera communicates through Optics (visible light) flash to talk to remote controls, it is important from the bottom of the body of your 430EX II can 'see' the flash on the camera.  In small parts, that no matter where the lower part of the body showed up... you notice the impulses of the light of the on-camera flash.  But in large halls or outside the lower body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) will have any reflection of the walls, etc.  In this case, simply turn the lower part of the body of the 430EX II so that it faces the on-camera flash.  You can then rotate the head of the 430EX II at the point where you need.  The 430EX II will trigger even in daylight, as long as it can 'see' as the on-camera flash.

  Here is a video that can help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A

• Better lens for pictures of products - EOS Rebel T3i?

  Hello

  I have a Canon EOS T3i rebel I use strictly for product photography. We take the photo package and unpack the company/treats pet food; they come in the plastic support sleeves, overlays and blisters. Must ensure that all written content is readable and capture all the details when you take pictures of small Articles of decompressed. Is there any lens that I could use for the two pictures of the packaging and get all the details of the unwrapped items?

  I appreciate your advice!

  I advise to use the Macro USM lens EF-S 60mm f/2.8 and install good tripod.  I use my tripod to shoot macros by reversing the center column and by changing the length of leg to tilt the column of the Center for the best light.

        

  A macro lens is different from a classic lens in several ways.  One, a macro lens generally have a short minimum focus distance.  Two, a macro will also have a great value for the minimum opening.  A value as high as f / 40 s is not uncommon.

  The reason for the higher f/stop parameters is due to the short depth of field you can get when you work at close distances.  I use higher values of f/stop to "extend" my DOF for a quarter of an inch or less, an inch or two or more.  The compromise is that narrower opening requires more light, in order to maintain the ISO required within reasonable limits.

  Another difference that comes to mind, it is how a macro lens focuses.  A standard lens will focus on objects at a certain distance from the lens.  When you move the center of the field of vision, the focal distance remains constant, that translates into a "development plan" which is curved.

  A macro lens is focused on a flat surface.  This is useful if you are Imaging old photos, instead of their scanning.  Instead get the good development in the Center and have it drop moving you to the outer edge of the frame, a macro lens will capture the entire flat photo in perfect focus.

  I hope this helps.  It is a "Juevos Rancheros", BTW.

• Taking wide angle, inside still shot s for rental properties with my Rebel T3i

  I am the owner of the apartments and really struggled to get good shots of small rooms. My Rebel EOS T3i came with the EFS 18-55mm and 55-250 mm lens kit. I took a few photos wide-angle still rooms with lens 18-55 mm EFS, but my apartment rooms are usually quite small (think of the living rooms of 12 x 12 and small bath, etc.).  I just want to be able to adapt a bit more in the picture I'm getting right now, and I just can't back up far enough in the room. A slight distortion is OK. I saw some pictures of the great Hall with an adjustible 10-22mm, but I don't know if I need an adjustable lens, and it seems that they cost much more. Someone recommended using a fixed lens. Any ideas on a good objective fixed size (if all goes well at a reasonable price) which should work well with my camera to this effect.  I am a newbie so sorry if I did not give sufficient details. Ideas that you can give me would be great.

  EF-S 10-22mm lens lens is probably just what the doctor ordered.  If you wish, rent a copy (many places rent them... LensRentals, BorrowLenses, B & H Photo, etc.) and try before you buy - but I suspect it's the goal you want.  There is competition a few lenses with similar focal length ranges... the Canon tends to get the best reviews.

  It is a lens wide angle 'straight'--which means that all the "straight" will actually continue as 'straight' in your photos. In a "Fish-eye" lens straight lines (aka "curvilinear") are not preserved and will appear rounded (unless the line gets to pass through the center of the image).

  But there is a problem... If you're not careful, these objectives very wide angle will change things that * should * appear as rectangles (windows, doors, etc.) will turn into trapezoids (keystone forms) - and in architecture, it may look unpleasant.

  To avoid this, the camera must be 'level '.  Make sure that the lens is not slanted downwards or upwards - leave the level.  As long as the appliance is level, the lines on the sides of your doors and windows will be standing and not lean - creating wonky shapes.

  Good luck!

• camera battery problems

  I have a Canon EOS T3i rebel who has not had problems over the years I've had up to now where it will not recognize a fully charged battery.  I have an extra battery and have tried both after recharging the.  I can get off a shot and then the red light turns on and doesn't let me go ahead.  I take the battery, re - insert and it will give me another shot.  On the screen the battery icon shows a fully charged battery.   Help.

  Thanks for the help on this site of problem solving.  It turns out that someone recommended checkinh map as the red light indicated to write to the card, more battery problem.  I'll definitely keep this site for future use.  Thanks again

• EOS T3iLenses

  I have an EOS T3i. Started to take pictures of landscapes, but I would like to be able to zoom in on distant objects without losing local. Any suggestions as to the goal. I consider myself a beginner.

  It seems that I have aligned the situation right on.  You will need to look at a zoom with a narrow field of zoom.  I suggest that you look in the Canon EF-S 10-22mm F3. 5 4.5 USM.  This len will do exactly what you call in your last post.  You can see the range of mountains in your viewfinder at 10mm, with maybe a field of white flowers on one of the slopes.  When you zoom in to 22mm, the ends of the mountain range may be cut on both sides, but the pasture of white flower will be more distinct than the flowers growing on the slope.

  With a lens like a lens Canon 18-135 mm F3. 5 - 5.6 IS STM, see you 95% of the mountain at 18 mm and see the fire of white flowers on the slope.  Zooming to 135mm, you will see only the brilliance of white flowers and decern the model of growth on the slope and reduce the real scope of mountain less than 50%.

  The question for you is to decide what angle of view, within a specific distance you want in your photo.  The lens, the angle, if you make the angle on the scale you get distortion on the sides of the lens.  I think you that a line of buildings, the buildings on the right and left side of the photo will be bent, or tilted inward.  Or, it will give the effect of a "fisheye".  Ultra wide angle lenses have a very short Canon lens and very large diameter outter.  This is accomplish the very wide angle of view.  Care must be taken when using a lens ultra wide angle can have a hood that will cast shadows on the edges of the photos, this is called the vignetting is sensitive as the edges darker image.  You can accomplish this just by holding your hands to the maximum perifual vision and them closer to the front of your face, without elbow flexion.   Think that your hands move inward, they shade the edges of your vision and block light from the edges very of your photo sensor in the camera.

  I hope this helps your understanding of the operation of a few drinks.  Good luck.

• do not pull on my EOS 70 d

  My EOS 70 D won't all take pictures. When I take a picture, it will act as it concentrates in flashing and others, but he won't never through. He always busy. I tried all modes, and none does not work even without flash.

  I also pulled the battery out the card reformatted it and erased all settings of the device.

  Violetas wrote:

  My EOS 70 D won't all take pictures. When I take a picture, it will act as it concentrates in flashing and others, but he won't never through. He always busy. I tried all modes, and none does not work even without flash.

  I also pulled the battery out the card reformatted it and erased all settings of the device.

  Development of a sudden camera mode must have the focus before he can take a picture. Looks like you try to take a picture where it's too dark, and there is not enough contrast for the camera to the point to get. I suggest that you watch these videos if you have a understanding of the functioning of the AF system of your camera.

  Join a two-hour session which will remove the veil of mystery surrounding their Canon EOS camera autofocus system for many photographers, Rudy Winston of Canon USA.

  A glance at the part of Autofocus system Canon 1

  A glance at the part of Autofocus system Canon 2

  A glance at the part of Autofocus system Canon 3