F55 low light bands and noise

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• What would be the best camera for light low, good zoom and footage

  Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX50V
  Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100

  I'd love the RX100 but now for nearly $700

  DSC-HX50 would be the best option for your needs. It has also many interesting features. It is integrated with optical zoom 30 x and 60 x Zoom of Digital Image clear.

  This device has a 20.4 million pixels image CMOS Exmor R sensor that brings out the full resolving power of the lens of the camera to offer extremely fast speed, high resolution Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T, and a great sensitivity in low light with improved and drastically reduced grain image clarity.

  You can find detailed information on the features of the two cameras at the bottom of the links:

  http://store.Sony.com/webapp/WCS/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langid=-1&SearchType=search&StoreID=1...

  http://store.Sony.com/webapp/WCS/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langid=-1&SearchType=search&StoreID=1...

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "acceptable Solution".

• How can I remove grain and noise of my "rushes". video was filmed during the night with poor lighting and a digital SLR

  grain and noise reductiom

  As already suggested, video Neat.

  https://www.neatvideo.com/

  Embarrassing bad web site, very good product.

  Don't forget that in addition to the expense of the plug-in, noise reduction is a very intensive rendering process - and so you have the payroll to the supplementary budget to make files.

  Do a test on excerpts and see if it works well enough for you.

  If so, edit without making the noise reduction and, once you have the material cut down to just the sections that need a treatment, do your the noise reduction on all this material.

  MtD

• SLog2 in low light conditions

  Hello, hoping for some advice please. What about the slog2 being wonderful shooting large latitudes in broad daylight and in situations where preserving highlights important - is fair to say then that slog2 so not ideal for low light dark environments?

  That is to say, if the ideal place for shades of skin and the gray card is at 30-33 with slog2, then in the dark light scenarios / low we lose many details in shadows etc that might otherwise be exposed to.

  We therefor more easy shooting with hyper gamma or curves standard to allocate more data to the shadow and thus pull complexion and gray at 40-50 IRE and keep sLog2 of shooting for higher latitude stuff? Or are there benefits for your stay on slog2 all the time if you're happy to be ranking images in any case post?

  I think I know the answer here, but I was hoping to get some thoughts to this certain f55/5 users that pass between the curves according to the scenarios.

  I do not have a raw box with my f55 kit, so I'm looking forward to stretch and control capabilities in camera and latitude, as much as I can.

  Thank you
  Tom

  Http://www.tomdavid.com.au

  What you're missing is that with the S - Log, and using the good LUT in post, these shadow detail who look as if they were in the mud in the eyepiece arose at appropriate levels. There are more bits (steps of BRIGHTNESS) in the shade to be "brought back to the top" in post.

  The only drawback is that it does not relieve a little noise. If you want to keep the same level of noise as a Hypergamma, just expose it to IE even as a Hypergamma (500, 600, etc.). You better stay right in S-Log2/SGamut and exposing more hot (that is to say 600ISO) and lose this stop on the high end.

  Mixing and matching SLog/Sgamut with hypergammas would be a nightmare for a colorist. They don't look not anywhere close to the same thing, and they do not meet the colors even. I didn't do it.

• 5 d Mark 3 low light Images = really slow!

  Hello

  I have a rather strange problem. When shooting in low light (shots thinking completely black, lightning etc.) 5 d mark iii takes forever to display the image on the preview screen. It takes up to a minute or more, and I can see the flicker of red light (indicating the camera is busy writing?) all the time. Thinking it was a problem of memory card, I have switched on the SD card slot (I was shooting before CF) and encountered the same problem. I use San Disk Extreme (30MBPS) CF card and card SD Extreme (45MBPS).

  Are these cards not fast enough for what I do? I am shooting in RAW + JPEG, writes that one card.

  I thought it was a fault of the camera, but I talked to a friend who had just bought his Mark iii, and he had the same complaint.

  Anyone else encounter this problem or are we just a bad batch?

  Any light you can throw on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

  I think it is more likely to be long-exposure noise reduction. What is the shutter exposure value? Since you said that it is almost black, the exhibition could be long. Therefore, give us some information.

  For example, if your shuter speed is 1/10 and it took 5 seconds to appear then it is something wrong. But if it's a 5s exhibition and it took 5 seconds, then it is normal.

  On the use of SD card with 5DMIII, the speed limit is 20Mbps which remains fast enough to always capture. And there's also, stamp camera too. This is why you will not see the slow worms down in normal shooting situation (not in burst). In short, I think that it is due to the reduction of the long exposure noise which is turned towards the AUTO default.

• dschx300b-noisy/nervousness/video all in 3/4 full max zoom... of the day or low light... anyone?

  just bought a refurbished dschx300b from sony... when in video mode, the picture is noisy/unstable to 3/4 full max zoom... lighting is not serious... I reset the camera... even... everyone?

  In addition, zoom to this length, noise and excitement is natural.
  Noise because the opening became smaller (more large number f), causing it to have less light entering the lens, making the sensor to the ISO, which makes it more sensitive, so more noise.
  You mention that is happening in the light of the day and the low light, I guess the ISO can be manually set to something high, that then maybe, take a look at the ISO in video mode settings, to see what ISO has been affected.

  In addition, with zoom, small handmovements will look great on the screen - just do sure SteadyShot is enabled to minimize the effect Falters as possible in the final video.

  Now, if this isn't what you mean by hopping, but maybe a constant vibration or such, etc., just something constant, I think it's time to get this guy here send for verification and replacement.

• Start of satellite L10 fan speed and noise

  My L10 cooling fan start always maximum speed, when it turns on it always burst at maximum speed (and noise) and then slow down to a speed (and slient relative). This fan start noise is very annoying (as fan departure every half hour in office work and every 15 minutes in some simple games).
  I try muffler or bios settings performance they do not fix the noise and the starting speed.
  Maybe Toshiba could release some bios update or patch or something to fix this? (my bios version 2.0)
  Maybe this problem has the solution software thrid party?
  Or the fan speed max is just a hardware problem?

  Thank you.

  Hello Albert

  The same thing my Qosmio F20 and in my opinion, it is not any kind of technical problem. At the moment I'm typing this text and hear Internet radio at the same time. The cooling fan works regularly.

  In my opinion, when the operating system runs several different processes running in the background and they need the CPU activity that needs to be cooled correctly. In my opinion, you should check the power settings management settings and change the performance of the processor to lower the level.

  If the cooling fan runs every 15 minutes, in my opinion, it is not too often.

  Good bye

• Portege R700 webcam goes dark in low light conditions

  Hello

  Since I bought my Toshiba Portege R700 about a year ago I had problems with my webcam. I looked in several forums but couldn't find an answer. My build in webcam has problems of adaptation in the light of the room.

  When the room is dimly lit camera turns almost black after a few seconds. It is interesting enough before the camera darkens, he manages to produce a picture is ok for a few seconds, which means that the camera is capable of producing an image ok in low light conditions.

  She has just problems adjusting the brightness in the room when it is poorly lit. I propose to toshiba update the software of the camera, since it is clearly a matter of software. And yes I've tried every single possible configuration for the camera! And Yes, I also reinstalled (several times) the camera driver.

  I know that the camera performs well in places that have good lighting and so I'm only interested in improving my performance of cameras when not much light is available.

  Thank you very much
  Clem

  Hi dude

  I understand that you would expect webcam great performance in poor light environment but I put t do you think it would be possible to get the good quality photo using the laptop is dark rooms.

  The material of these small internal cams is limited and you see the same issues with other devices like smartphones cameras that resemble the internal cams s notebook.

  In addition, the webcam software that is preinstalled on my laptop Toshiba supports the night mode option that allows you to improve the quality of the obscure image in the Middle but of course you will not get the same image quality if you want to use the cam in the luminous environment

• Low light problems?

  I bought a camera Sony TX100V USA Store. Everything is ok, good, but using low lighting, when I take a shoot in a place very dark and wide, this camera for a picture very much reflected light as a bubble of water on the image (I don't know, flash maybe). Now, I will send you pictures 02. You can see and check taken by me or the camera. Yes, by me, how to reset. Because it is the software of the camera (edit mode,...) or by material (objective,...) and how can I solve this problem?

  my configuration is: case flast auto, car of intelligence, EV 0, auto macro, auto face detection, automatic AF illuminator car of red eyes

  link 02 photos:

  http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/8591/dsc00403mg.jpg

  http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2417/dsc00404sw.jpg

  If you need the original image, here:
  http://www.mediafire.com/?ng6t3sv77tkrd

  Thank you, best regards.

  Hello
  Welcome to the Forums of Discussion of the user.

  First of all. the white dots that you see in the picture are the reflections of dust of your flash.
  Second, if you take pictures of distant in a very dark frame objects, auto and flash are not recommended as you try to keep light natural lots you can.

  Here are two basic settings help you to: ISO and EV (opening)

  The ISO is a speed rating for recording media that incorporates an image sensor that receives light. Even when the exposure is the same images differ according to the ISO.
  ISO
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/docs/dvimag/DS... 13/13.html

  EV
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/docs/dvimag/DS... 12/12.html

  If manual is a bit too advanced, try to use the parameter of 'Twilight' or 'twilight pocket. "
  These scene selections will allow you to shoot scenes of night to a far distance (your pier is a good example of it) without losing the dark atmosphere of the surrounding area.

  several are on the settings here:
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/docs/dvimag/DS... 09/09.html

• Shooting in low light

  I'm experimenting with night shooting, and there's a tree in my yard that I really care about photography. There is a light on her porch, and I see it very well.  I learned about "light bulb" taken in manual mode and used in other situations of low light, but for some reason that I can't get the camera to fire.  It focuses and then place in the viewfinder turns red, instead of green.  I think it's really important to note that I see this tree very well.  So why not my camera?

  A flashlight often provides enough reflected for the autofocus light work. Once the lens is worn switch to manual focus.

  Use the judgement on the size of your flashlight. A single LED won't do much, but a D Maglite 3 cell works in many situations. Don't forget to adjust your Aperture for your depth of field in short stays, so the furthest and closest to foliage will be clear (or whatever effect you want). Also have had good luck using laser pointers as a beam focus...

• T3i does AF in low light DISCOS more (using 550 ex)

  I do disco photography and I've had my t3i for about 2 years now and I use the 550 ex.  Recently, the red light blinks when I try to get a focus in low light using the kit lens.

  I know that red light works because I used it with a trigger and I put the flash on a 7 d and it works very well.  In order to get a update now in the Dim light, I have to use a secondary video light for the camera to focus.  The AF works very well in regular light and dim light - but not in a dark nightclub (but it used to).

  Make sure that your device is set to 'One Shot' AF as support on the flash light does not work if the unit is in "AI Servo" AF.

• Shutter speed too slow AV mode for sunrise timelapse (low light)

  Hi all!

  First, I'm a bit embarressed to ask this question because I am sure that its entry level but stuff I posted in several other forums to establish what is the problem im trying and I now reduced to a simple question... I think so..

  I'm trying to shoot a timelapse of the sunrise. At dawn when the unit is in AV mode, due to the low light it seems be frezzing up when I go to take a picture. I realize now its not freeze until his tusing simply a shutter speed to compensate for the lack of light.

  The problem is, I see a lot of tutorials of timelapse of Sunrise, and they all recommend using AV mode because of the changing light conditions.  (I had to use manual mode with a small opening in the end and to halfway through once the Sun rose my photos were all horribly over exposed)

  How can I combat the problem of low light in order to use my camera in AV mode for photos with 4 second intervals?

  At the moment I can't use it at dawn because the shutter speed slows down so that it does not make a timelapse.

  Any comments would be massivly appriecated.

  Thank you!

  OK, let's go.

  AV and Tv are really semi-manuel exposure modes.  You are setting the aperture or the shutter and waiting for the camera to select the oppisite.  If you have selected an Av which requires a shutter speed too long to take the correct exposure, you will get very long shutter.

  You can up the ISO, or select a larger BC.

• Photosmart C8180 All-in-one: not able to print colors light magenta and magenta

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  Please, answer

  Hello

  Because the printer is out of warranty, technical support may provide you option to get an improved printer (a different model) with a little low prices.

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• Low light lens

  Hello world

  I am a beginner in photography and would like to receive your comments and advice.  I did some research and planned on getting a Nex 6 or A 6000 depending on the difference in price when the 6000 will be available in April.  I especially film indoor, low light and sports action of my son.  According to information I found on the net, the sel35f18 seems to be a good choice of lens that fit best for my films.  Any comment or other suggestion of lens?

  Thank you!

  
  

• grain and noise

  Feeling discouraged this morning with a box full of rejections.  The reason to reject this photo was grain and noise.   I am perplexed, because it was shot at a relatively low ISO and seems fine on my iMac.  What do you see?

  @Ruth Bergen Braun,

  Thank you for writing and sharing your photos. I think that we could get this one wrong. I checked the file at full resolution and it looks great to me. I cancelled the rejection and upload the image. Keep more content coming soon!

  Kind regards

  Mat Hayward